Why Kenmore Front Load Washers Fail
Wed, Sep 5, 2007
Why do Kenmore front load washers fail shortly after their warranty expires? A rusted drum support, a drum screw cutting through plastic tub, etc. This excellent video clip, courtesy of a youtube user tanksalotct, shows how and why Kenmore front load washers fail. Check it out for yourself and share your experience by commenting below.
Metal inner tub with spider assembly
GE part number WH45X10006 (average price is $299)
Frigidaire part number 131618500 (average price is $230, AppliancePartsPros price is 194.50, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2107258&pn_=131618500)
Rear outer tub and bearing assembly
GE part number WH45X10007 (average price is $320)
Frigidaire part number 131525500 (average price is $176, AppliancePartsPros price is $159.95, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2578105&pn_=131525500)
Popularity: 100% [?]
September 13th, 2007 at 1:20 pm
I just finished installing the Rear shell/bearing and the inner spin tub in my front load Kenmore after 5-6hours work overall and $367. Had to buy the separate parts from “Reliable Parts” here in Canada even though Sears carries the whole assembly (complete shell with spin tub inside). They will not sell the assembly - it’s only for their techs to install as a flat priced repair ($500-$600).
This all could have been avoided if we had known about the powdered detergent problem, which we were’nt told about and is not in our manual - it’s eight years old and has been getting louder over the last year. Spider bracket was still OK but bearing and shaft were a mess. Thanks for the info. I used the instructions at: http://www.applianceaid.com/417_Frigidaire_washer.html
October 19th, 2007 at 4:02 am
i have the same promblem
November 14th, 2007 at 7:03 pm
do the other two with the same problem also use powedered det.? what do the three long screws fasten to the inside of the drum?
November 24th, 2007 at 2:38 pm
`i just ordered kenmore front loader and im waiting delivery will i be sorry
December 24th, 2007 at 3:30 am
Our GE Gallery front load washer is now 7-1/2yrs old and has been getting noisier over the past year or so. I suppose the bearing is gone, maybe more and from what I have read I will have to at least replace the inner half of the tub. When I rotate the SS tub by hand it feels very rough and bumpy, there is no leak so far. I’m regretting buying into this hole front load system, we paid over a $1000 for this thing and expected at least 20 yrs service from it, so much for the “savings”.
January 15th, 2008 at 5:06 pm
Any suggestions for those of us who just purchased this machine?
January 16th, 2008 at 12:21 am
Well it looks like the only fix is the replacement of the inner tub at the very least, at a cost of about $200 for parts alone. Mine although is noisy is still functioning otherwise normally with no leaks although I think it’s only a matter of time. Till then I’m going to continue using it as it is then will take it apart and evaluate. So far it seems like no one has been able to replace the bearing on it’s own, that’s too bad because I have a good source for bearings (would cost about $10!). louis
January 19th, 2008 at 12:56 pm
For those who have recently bought these machines, I think you are probably better off as long as you are using the correct detergent (HE liquid)
January 19th, 2008 at 1:21 pm
I have been using liquid detergent from day one, never powder so I’m afraid that alone is not enough to ward off the bearing distruction.
January 25th, 2008 at 4:10 am
I can’t believe I am reading this!
For my own particular reasons, I thought I would google “bearing recall kenmore washer” and I’m lead directly to this website.
We purchased our washer in 2002
The spider drum failed in 2005. The entire drum assembly was replaced. I don’t recall that the repair was warranteed.
Aparently, the bearing and the shock damper failed last week, of which I’m told is not under warrantee.
$450 was the repair quote.
We have always used liquid detergent but I was advised today by the repairman that we should be using the HE type?
I am going to make sure I have a good look at the guts of this thing when they go to fix it.
Any suggestions?
January 25th, 2008 at 10:19 am
Sorry to hear about your trouble, Sean.
One thing I wanted to point out is that Kenmore is just a brand owned by Sears. All Kenmore appliances are made by other manufacturers. At present time, there are at least two different brands of front load washers sold under the Kenmore brand - one made by Whirlpool and another made by Electrolux (Frigidaire). You can tell by checking the model number prefix (look for a small tag on the washer). 110 means Whirlpool, 417 means Electrolux/Frigidaire.
Sounds like yours is made by Frigidaire. If so, check your warranty paperwork. You may still have warranty on the basket (part only), in which case you would only have to pay for labor.
Using HE detergent with front load washers is strongly recommended by most manufacturers, and from what I hear it does help.
January 25th, 2008 at 11:55 am
Blaming detergent for bearing failure is pretty ridiculous if you ask me, for those who do use it and don’t have a problem they’re just plain lucky, I wasn’t. Sorry but “helps” does not sound good enough to me.
February 5th, 2008 at 5:47 pm
Louis - I did find an article on-line last night with info on replacing just the bearings on these Kenmore 417 front loaders. It was a .pdf download. Don’t have it here, but will check at home later and post the link here.
February 6th, 2008 at 3:38 am
Michael, that sounds great, thanks. I have to do something soon, it is getting REALLY noisy, thumping loudly and it’s a matter of time before it starts leaking water. ……..Louis
February 6th, 2008 at 11:59 am
Here’s the link to the thread. There are two links to .pdf files with detailed instructions and the bearing part numbers. I think the second is the one I downloaded.
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=237
February 6th, 2008 at 9:49 pm
Michael thank you for doing this, although it doesn’t give detailed instructions on actual bearing removal it does go into detail on taking it apart to that point. This is what I needed to know, that once apart the bearings can be replaced on their own, I’ll be able to remove them once all is apart. I suppose I should get a tub seal ahead of time? ……Louis
February 13th, 2008 at 2:30 am
My husband and I bought a the Kenmore He2 Washer in July of 2006 and it’s dying!!! We are so frustrated. We didn’t purchase the two year warranty at the time–and now we are so bummed. It’s so foolish that they can sell an $800.00 washer that dies in 1 1/2 years. Anyone else experience this? We’ve been reading other blogs that said it was the motherboard–I wish they would just recall the stupid machine! We bought the matching dryer and it works just fine. What can we do? Just pay hundreds of dollars in repairs?
February 18th, 2008 at 12:51 pm
Thanks for the video clip. This is exactly the problem we have with our Kenmore Front Load which was manufactured in April 2003. I took the machine apart yesterday before watching the video. Two of the arms on the Spider bracket are broken. We also had shredded plastic from the outer tub in our last load but the screws did not cut the whole way through. We went out last evening and bought a Maytag. Anyone need parts off my Kenmore (Model 417.43142200). The motor is fine and all circuit boards?
February 18th, 2008 at 4:49 pm
I have this Kenmore FrontLoad I bought 2 years ago burt just went bad weeks after the warranty expired. I have the Elite HE4t. Please Kenmore products are being recalled. I won’t advice anyone to buy Kenmore again.
February 29th, 2008 at 1:15 pm
Well finally did it, took the darn machine apart, found the expected bad bearings but also found one of the spider arms broken. At $400 for these two items (just parts) I refused to put that kind of money into it. I knocked the bearings out and found replacements at a local bearing supplier. As for the arm I braced it to the others as well as screwed to the tub but unfortunetly what I feared was the case. It was great, quiet and smooth until the final super fast spin where it was obvious the drum is now out of balance and rocking and making a racket, but machine doesn’t move. I’m leaving it until it just explodes at this point or won’t go anymore, maybe a month maybe a year but I am not going through all that work again and definetly not going to put money into at this point. My point now is if you’re capable of dismantling it you can replace just the bearings as long as the spider arm is not broken. As soon as the bearing start “howling” (getting loud at spin) is the time to do them, if you wait until they’re really loose (you can actually move drum side to side by hand)then the spider arm will break and the inner drum will also scrape through the plastic tub. The bearings cost me $50 for the set, I re-used the gasket between the tub halves with no problems. Michael thanks again for the thread on the thorough instruction for the work.
February 29th, 2008 at 7:01 pm
Well our GE Front loader washer after 6 yrs started making a ton of noise during the spin cycle. Figuring it was the rear bearing I took it apart but only to find that the bearing would have been ok if the spider bracket hadn’t broken two of it’s arms. Downer it that the spider bracket is not sold by itself. You have to buy the whole Tub-Spin assembly. ($300-$400) depending on who you talk to. But also need to replace the rear bearing since it was leaking too, another $300, so might as well buy a new washer. Unless anyone might know of a source to obtain just the spider bracket.
Cheers!
March 1st, 2008 at 2:33 am
Scott the bearings can be knocked out easy enough once the drum is apart, no need to buy inner tub. There are a lot of bearing suppliers that can easily match them (with better bearings I might add). The rear spider here is $199 canadian, this includes the entire stainless drum, where did you get 300-400?
March 1st, 2008 at 4:03 am
Louis, Thanks for the quick reply. The $300-400 is from the geappliance.com website. Tub-Spin assembly (WH45X10006) price $399.50 US. I found another site appliancepartspros.com with it listed at $297.48 US. OK, the big question then is, do you think it’s worth trying to save this 6 yr old washer? Thanks again.
March 1st, 2008 at 7:35 am
I wouldn’t spend $300 on a GE washer, IMHO. GE makes good jet engines, appliances however are not so great. Again, my opinion only.
March 1st, 2008 at 1:08 pm
I agree, this is why I replaced the bearings on their own at a cost of $50 and patched the spider arm for now, when it quits all together it’s going to the junk yard and never will I buy one again.
March 4th, 2008 at 6:49 pm
Thanks to all for your good info.
I’m in the same boat - loud knocking during the spin cycle - reviewed all the above info, took washer apart and found that the spider arm is broken.
So, I think I’m going to replace the bearing for $50 and the spider arms for $199 since $250 is much cheaper than an new washer, and I should get another 5 years out of it (hopefully
Anyone know who to contact to get that spider assembly with the drum for $199? I’m in Ontario.
Thanks!!
March 4th, 2008 at 10:33 pm
I sent this to Sears Corporate!
The link below shows why Sears has ripped of millions of patriotic Americans who have purchased Sears Appliances only to be disappointed with Sears’s corporate policy, by design ripping off the consumer with a costly repair scheme, to fix a defective product and design, on it face! The reality of buying a defective product, at considerable cost only to have it, “shit the bed,” in a major way is unacceptable and epitomized the scumbag mentality of corporate slime, preoccupied with profit while $ucking the consumer hard, with inferior products. Imagine driving down the road and the front wheel falls off your car after five years. I paid over a $1000.00 for a front-load Kenmore Washing Machine. only to get sodomized by SEARS
http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-repair-help/washer-repair/why-kenmore-front-load-washers-fail-271/
1) Sear does not sell just.. spider bracket and spindle? What the hell???
2) My stainless steel inner basket is fine! I do not need another one! Thanks but no thanks!!
3) I can buy my own rear bearings and replace them without getting raped in the process!!
4) Nice screw job with the “over sized steel screw” which scores the outer plastic tub from the inside rendering it useless and trash bound!
5) To sell replacement parts which are not upgraded to address “ACKNOWLEDGED” underlying design defects is fraud and a is crime.
If you want to know what is wrong with AMERICA TODAY!!
It’s BULLSHIT LIKE THIS! Buy American and get screwed in the process? What classless “behavior” for an American Corporation, once respected, but respected no more!!
An American………….
March 5th, 2008 at 1:14 am
Jeff, any local appliance repair shop can order it for you. I called sears (where I bought mine) and they gave me a list of service centers and I called one, he told me $199.00 and had to be ordered. Online I found a couple of places that had it as well but of course there is shipping involved. Make sure your seal is good and water is not going to leak through to the bearings, you can probably order one at the same time, a bearing supply place may have the seal as well if you take it in with you. BTW, grind down the three screws poking through the inner drum before re-assembly, the ones that likes to gouge out the outer tub when bearings go bad. Also the best way to instal the boot to tub would be while tub assembly is out of the machine, this would mean detaching the boot from the front of the washer completely. You have to carefully cut free the boot from the washer, I re-installed it and didn’t use any glue and it stays in place. The repair guy said you can use a bit of crazy glue at a few spots to hold it in, I would think a little contact cement may also work.
March 8th, 2008 at 2:04 am
Having replaced many bearings in the Kenmore front loaders, one thing is a constant. This washer is made by Fridgadaire for Sears. It is the same FLW with the Fridgadaire name on it. The reason for early failure seems to be the use of high suds (non HE) soap with ALL customers who had this work done. The screw in the basket holds the baffles in place.
All appliances break. Today all appliances are not constructed as they were 20 years ago. The reason is that the price of the product hasn’t really increased to cover inflation. Something gave and cheaper materials was the only thing that could be controlled. This is true of all appliances today. What used to be serviced in 7-8 years is now being serviced in 3-5.
March 8th, 2008 at 9:25 pm
I have the same prob. as most of you. My 417.43142200 model Kenmore washer just gave out. It just started knocking loudly the other day during the fast spin cycle. Shortly after, we put another load in and it made the knocking sound during regular wash cycle. I was surprised so many people were having the same problem and only after five to six years of function. I was very happy to see the youtube.com post by tanksalotct. It has made my decision to service or scrap my washer a lot easier. My time is very valuable, and to spend two to three hundred dollars in parts alone for a washer I paid six hundred for is ridiculous. You might find it interesting to know that I called a repair man who worked on ac units, washers, dryers, etc., for over forty years. He said that Frigidaire-made Kenmore units are pieces of junk (by experience now, I say he’s right). He also said that Maytag, formerly top of the line quality, was bought out and now is also junk. He recommends buying Whirlpool, but I am currently looking at some LG washers and dryers. I have read good customer reviews of them which were much more highly reviewed than Whirlpool. It is a cop out to say that you can’t keep up with inflation; therefore, cheap quality construction and parts are implemented. If the price one company charges for a washer, let’s say, is $2500.00 and never has a hiccup for over twenty years and a competitor only charges $800.00 for a hunk of tin that breaks every five or six years, which one do you think the consumer would rather buy from? I guess the guy or gal who likes to waste liftime repairing or replacing cheap crap might think they are saving money, but my lifetime is limited. I will spend good money on someting that will last allowing me time to spend with friends and family, not loosing my religion on previously proud American name brands. I’m sorry if this sounds like a rant. I had to vent somewhere. No more Kenmore for this fella.
March 9th, 2008 at 4:10 am
No more for me as well, very disappointed with what I ended up with.
March 10th, 2008 at 12:53 pm
The screws which fix the baffle to the inside of the inner tub extends considerably “longer” than required. I’m surprised “corporate bean counters” spent to much money on screws! The necessity of repair is guaranteed, once the sub standard bearings or spider bracket fails! The money which could have been saved by using “shorter screws” might have been “earmarked” for more resilient bearings and spider brackets? Your statement concerning the “longevity” of appliances manufactured; “…all appliances today. What used to be serviced in 7-8 years is now being serviced in 3-5,” again affirms an “underlying problem.” Yes appliances do break, but this is absurd. Both the manufacturer and retailers should be accountable for the marketing of $1000.00 plus FLWs requiring considerable repair costs, many within five years! This is just wrong! It is the classic rip off, fortunately absent the effects of products like, defective m-16s, exploding in the faces of GI’s firing weapon, while under fire!
March 11th, 2008 at 3:04 am
This has been informative, disheartening and also confirming. Thanks for taking the time and effort to expose this fraud. I stumbled onto your video looking for parts for a front-loader Kenmore washer we purchased in the summer of 2005 for our states side house -we spend summers out of the country -using the machine only during the winter months for 3 adults. Two days ago,less than the three year mark - more like a full year of use, the machine refused to drain or spin. I’ve spent the past two days, taking the machine apart - perhaps its the control board or the pump drain -if I do the repairs -a total of $250.00 in parts without labor- impossible to know unless I have a Sears repairman come to check for 75.00 plus the hourly rate. Sooo, after what I have to look forward to, I should jump ship. Ironic that Sears spends lots of energy advertising its Quality Service - that’s obviously because they sell crappy products and they know it -seems deliberate and intentional to me. Growing up and as a young wife, we had Kenmore/Sears appliances that lasted and lasted and lasted and we loved buying from Sears.
I will never buy another appliance or vacuum, tractor, or TV from Sears.
What have others done about this consumer fraud? I got Sears Holding Corp.CEO’s name and address to write a nasty letter, which will go into the round file, I’m sure.
I understand the anger and frustration -now I have to pay to have this machine picked up- because it’s too heavy for me to lift - trucked to the recycle and pay for its disposal- what a crime - at so many levels.
March 11th, 2008 at 1:41 pm
Brenda,
I’ve got a brand new control board you can try.
e-mail me at muhley@hotmail.com if you’re interested - not sure how close we are with shipping.
Jeff
March 12th, 2008 at 2:46 pm
Thank you - how thoughtful- I have a confession to make. Dave and I uncovered the drain pump,because my internet searches led me to suspect a problem, and to our amazement, there was a dental floss pick wedged in the propeller of the pump assembly. We removed it, put the machine back together- and it’s running again. Who knows for how long. So in this case, my condemnation of Sears seems unjustified, except that the front cover is shot- cracked and finally broke into two pieces over the soap dispenser within a few months of purchase, the door hinges are rusted and there is surface corrosion in several places - what an adventure. This actually doesn’t change my conviction that I need to avoid Sears as a shopping outlet. I will be much more cautious in general.
Brenda
March 12th, 2008 at 11:25 pm
Brenda I don’t want to rain on your parade but the bearings and spider arm will most definitely break sooner or later. Sorry
March 13th, 2008 at 3:41 pm
I’ve no doubt that that’s true - if it last another 6 months,I’ll be relieved.We hope to market our house in NH this spring. Unfortunately, I purchased a new stove, refrigerator, washer and dryer last August which we moved to our Nova Scotia house- I’ll most likely have similar issues there- hopefully we’ll have a couple of years without repairs.
Brenda
March 15th, 2008 at 6:28 pm
I’m finding myself in a quandry here to find a replacement washer since I’ve got limited space for a washer/dryer set. I’m needing something that’s no more than 26″ deep but that kind of forces me into the 3.1 cu ft. front load washers. And quess what, all that I’ve found is made by GE (the model that’s gone after 6 yrs), Frigidaire or Kenmore. But they’re all basically same washer made by Frigidaire with the inharient problem of poor drum design (Spider arm unprotected from corrosion and eventual structural failure).
Step up to a 3.5 cu ft washers and the same concern exists since they all are made by Frigidaire.
My question to everyone is what are you replacing your washers with????
March 16th, 2008 at 12:44 am
We’ve had the same question and have started to research option. This website is interesting.
http://www.kelkoo.co.uk/co_3368-washing-machine-washer-dryer-guide-washing-machine-washer-dryer-buyers-guide.html
We’re thinking this may even lead to a search for machines made by hotpoint, bosch, etc in the US. We also intent to check on Japanese models - they are smaller and seem to has fewer repairs- according to my Japanese daughter-in-law. I’m interested in other ideas as well.
Brenda
March 16th, 2008 at 1:20 pm
George,
Nice call. Detergents use is the problem?? This is a text book rip-off. The denial and refusal to admit this inherent structural design, is by design and is “scumbag behavior.” A substandard spider bracket of poor quality is the problem! Consumers have again been screwed by corporate scum. Bend over and smile while when sodomized!!
March 16th, 2008 at 2:14 pm
I don’t buy the detergent use as a problem either, I used the proper liquid stuff from day one, I had no leaks and yet spider arm is broken and bearings worn. The place I bought the replacement bearings from told me the original bearings were of junk Chinese quality, worth maybe $2! Local repair guy showed me one he had in for service that had the bearings still good but the spider was broken in 2 places, the machine was 4 yrs old. Junk, and after the known problem for so long now you’ld think they change something, they’re still the same design! Ha, reminds me of the Chrysler transmission issue that went on for so long. Well we’re free to shop elsewhere and that’s what I plan on doing thank you very much.
March 21st, 2008 at 4:48 am
I bought a kemnore in nov 01, by dec 03 the spider bracket was broken on 2 arms, i did get the ex warrenty but only once, in dec they tried to sell it to me again (I declined) and this march 08 it broke again!! Repairman says it is a result of well water damaging the bracket. I’m so validated to find this sight after searching for 3 days on the internet for a replacement machine. How can Sears sell the same part for 8 years in a row to fix obvious reacurrent problems? I dont need a drum!! I wonder if i could get one of the local farm machienists to fabricate a better spider thingy and put in a new berring cheeper, 7 years with a house of 8 is a lot of laundry but…How do we know another model hasnt made the same obvious slipup, and still refuse to reassess it. the reviews out there are really bad on most machines now and id rather spend that $ on a big tv, wouldnt u? maybe a washboard in front of a big screen…
March 22nd, 2008 at 12:53 am
Ours just died a different death but we suspect the bearing as the source of the problem. Suddenly three days ago it sounded like it was spinning the cement blocks I know are inside it. We turned it off and then on again and it seemed fine. I did another load and all seemed fine till it began to spin counterclockwise - rocks again– LOUD–VERY VERY LOUD!
When we opened it up our plastic drum had two big pieces about the size of a paper plate broken right off the “corner” . We could actually look down inside and see the water sloshing around. Haven’t looked for parts yet. Not sure if I want to repair this one or find another similar one (I’ve LOVED this machine!!). I am on my third one in 19 years though — the first one came with the house and seemed to have 60s vintage literature. There are seven of us but I had hoped for more “mileage” than this.
Anyone interested in shipping us the back half of your unscored plastic tub before you dump it all in recycling?
March 22nd, 2008 at 1:33 am
I have an extra back half, I think I also kept the front half but I’m in Toronto, Ontario Canada, don’t know where you’re at but i have no use for it. It’s from a Frigidaire Gallery, probably same as the GE and Kenmore. Make sure the spider is not broken before you go any further.
March 26th, 2008 at 10:29 pm
My frigidaire front loader started knocking yesterday and fortunatley I found this site. took it apart today and the spider bracket is broken. it is corroded just like yours in the video. never used powdered soap only liquid. it is covered however with slimy detergent residue. can the spider bracket be bought seperately? was wondering if it had been coated in a plastic covering maybe it would not corrode. bought it in 2001.
March 27th, 2008 at 2:19 pm
just found a drum and bracket online for $219.00 includes shipping and tax. will fix it myself and hope for another seven years. the company i bought it off said he sells a couple a week and hears the same complaint about not being able to buy just the bracket. says the 25 year warranty on the drum does not cover the bracket but you can’t buy the seperatley.frigidaire and kenmore are taking a beating online and loosing alot of customers. this should have been recalled.
March 27th, 2008 at 7:10 pm
Would you be willing to share your source for drum and bracket for $219?
Those of you who have repaired yours with this part, are there any other parts you would recommend getting at the same time?
Our plastic seal, top left side, got blown apart last week. I have assumed it was the bearing and spider arms like everyone else’s but I’m wondering if it could have been the shocks/springs? Does anyone have experience with those? I wonder at their difficulty of repair and their price.
The industrial front load machines at the laundromat yesterday did not spin as dry as my Frig 417… I’ve gotten seven years for seven people out of mine. Was hoping for lots more though.
Couldn’t find HE detergent anywhere at the grocery store.
March 27th, 2008 at 7:57 pm
Sear refuse to sell just the spider bracket. Frigidaire / Sears / Kenmore are crooks. They have ripped off countless people with this scam. A review of my owners manual revealed nothing about HD detergents. Just another bold faced lie by corporate jerks avoiding accountability for a piss poor design. The fact is that the inner tub when spinning inside the outer plastic shell/tub has not exposed people to the dangers of fast spinning metal. Because no major bodily injuries have occurred, or have been buried, this precludes a product liability suit or safety recall. Defects are usual identified when people die or are maimed! Drive a “Pinto” lately!!! Sears sucks!!!
March 27th, 2008 at 11:41 pm
Jim, are you doing the bearings as well, probably should because you don’t want them going and taking the spider arm out again. You can source the bearings on their own through a bearing supplier and they’re easy to pop out.
March 28th, 2008 at 12:02 am
Cindy…
My spider arms recently went and I was able to get a drum from a month old machine that was trashed for other reasons. This was flukey for me, but I was about to get the part from Sears. I was told from Sears that the entire rear drum assembly was $152 - this includes the inner stainless steel drum installed in the rear outer drum with new bearings. You’ll have to call Sears, setup an appointment with their Techs but tell them to call to confirm (Sears won’t give the Tech’s ph. # for you to call them). When they do call, tell them you just want to pick up the part from them for that price - don’t have them come out because it will cost you a $75 service call to tell you what you already know. I replaced mine and it’s really not too bad of a job (and I had to pop in new bearings - this assembly will save you some time). If you spend $152 and get another 5-7 years I think that’s not too bad.
Also, I read on another site that a guy in Winnipeg got the whole drum, including the front outer tub, for the same price. You may want to ask Sears what the price is for the complete drum, and if it’s $152 then just buy it and save yourself a ton work!
I love Sears!!! (…kidding)
March 28th, 2008 at 2:10 am
Funny, new inner stainless steel tub with spider bracket attached $199.99 “Sears”
Other suppliers $260.00
Rear outer tub with bearings 172.00 “Sears”
Entire inner/outer tub assemblies $417.00
Sears will “not” sell just “spider bracket/shaft”
Sears will not sell inner/outer tub assembly.
Jeff said:
“I was told from Sears that the entire rear drum assembly was $152 - this includes the inner stainless steel drum installed in the rear outer drum with new bearings.”
This price is too cheap $152 and does not jive with what I have experienced with Sears. If I could have gotten out of this rip off for $152.00 I’d have done it. Frigidaire’s spider bracket’s design and metal is garbage. This is the bottom line. The reason they have gotten away with this is the protections the outer plastic affords. Most recalls happen when it is to late for the consumer. Drive a Ford Pinto lately? “All I want is a new spider bracket!” Just sell me a new spider bracket please………………..
March 28th, 2008 at 11:57 am
Cindy the web site is frigidaireparts.com have your model # ready.
March 28th, 2008 at 11:58 am
Cindy Iam sorry it is frigidairepartscenter.com
March 28th, 2008 at 3:51 pm
Ditto……I have a Kenmore front load Model 970-C41032-00 purchased in Ontario, Canada approximately in 2003/4 which expired (after the warranty expired approximately a year ago) and I am now attempting to fix. On disassembly I confirm that two arms of the Sider Bracket Assembly were broken and the whole assembly was completely corroded all over wwith pockmarks.
The engineering on this spider arm is inept to have a all metal part deteriorate in this way from an enviroment no chemically harsher than detergents. Obviously, the part is not undersized initially but the failure was induced due to chemical corrosion.
Then to have the public pay for this mistake is unconcionable. There should be a recall or credit from SEARS for the spider arm assembly by now.
March 28th, 2008 at 5:38 pm
Louis I took your advise and removed the bearings. replaced them at local shop for $19.00. what about the seal did you reuse or replace? were can a replacement be found?
March 28th, 2008 at 6:20 pm
James,
Where did you get the bearings? I called a bearing supplier and the person quoted me a price of 100.00 for both inner and outer rear bearing and seal. Seems rather ridiculous 100 bucks for bearings. Needless to say I did get bearings yet! Suggestions?
March 28th, 2008 at 7:18 pm
James I got mine at bearing service co. http://www.bearing-service.com Warren, Ohio they have other locations. they were able to match the numbers on the bearings couldn’t help with the seal.
March 28th, 2008 at 10:40 pm
It’s very unfortunate, to say the least, that both the spider arm and the bearing kit are not available separately. For those of you that would like to proceed with the repair, the information below might be helpful.
First, there are several GE front load washer models that were made by Frigidaire and use the SAME EXACT tub, bearing, spider arm, etc. These models are SH208W0WW, WCCH404V0WW, WPXH214A0CC, WPXH214A0WW, WPXH214F0CC, WPXH214F0WW, WSXH208A0WW, WSXH208A1WW, WSXH208F0WW, WSXH208T0WB, WSXH208V0WW, WSXH208V1WW. If you purchase these parts under GE’s name, you are paying additional markup. So, below is a cross reference from GE part numbers to Frigidaire part numbers for the “inner tub / spider assembly” and the “rear outer tub and bearing assembly”. I have also checked the price on these two items with 8 different part suppliers, including Sears, and at the moment AppliancePartsPros.com has the lowest price on both items. I am including the price and a direct link to the items below as well. Keep in mind, and as previously mentioned, Kenmore models starting with a 417 prefix are also made by Frigidaire. Disclaimer: AppliancePartsPros.com is a sponsor of ApplianceJournal. Sponsor or not, they do have the best deal on these items. Feel free to check using the part numbers below.
Metal inner tub with spider assembly
GE part number WH45X10006 (average price is $299)
Frigidaire part number 131618500 (average price is $230, AppliancePartsPros price is $194.50, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2107258&pn_=131618500)
Rear outer tub and bearing assembly
GE part number WH45X10007 (average price is $320)
Frigidaire part number 131525500 (average price is $176, AppliancePartsPros price is $159.95, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2578105&pn_=131525500)
AppliancePartsPros charges $4.95 for economy shipping, no extra charge for these oversized items.
Whether or not there is going to be a recall or a class action lawsuit on this problem as always depends on the number of complaints, among other things. If you feel strongly about this issue, read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class_action#United_States and take action.
March 28th, 2008 at 11:58 pm
I re-used the seal, I wasn’t having leaking problem and the person whom I purchased the bearings from said it looked fine. $19 for bearings is good assuming they were good quality, mine cost %50 for the pair but was assured they were very good quality, we’ll see.
March 31st, 2008 at 3:46 pm
James,
Thanks for the bearings link…… Appliance Journal,
Thank you for the the cross reference numbers and the links provide for those who can do the repairs themselves. However, I respectfully disagree with the following statement:
“Its very unfortunate, to say the least, that both the spider arm and the bearing kit are not available separately.” It is more than unfortunate! The fact that so many Frigidaire manufactured spider It is not limited to just Kenmore, Sears, and retailers! It is and was not an oversight, the poor design of the bracket and refusal to sell to consumers separately bearings and and/or spider bracket is intended and by design!arm assemblies are use by brand names like GE serves to further underscore the size of the problem:
“First, there are several GE front load washer models that were made by Frigidaire and use the SAME EXACT tub, bearing, spider arm, etc. These models are SH208W0WW, WCCH404V0WW, WPXH214A0CC, WPXH214A0WW, WPXH214F0CC, WPXH214F0WW, WSXH208A0WW, WSXH208A1WW, WSXH208F0WW, WSXH208T0WB, WSXH208V0WW, WSXH208V1WW.” (12 different models just for GE?
How many unsuspecting people have been gamed here, most of all the “mother(s) with child” tending to three hellions on the loose, with piles of laundry mounting, the size of Mt Everest! It is almost “to easy,” a con man would say! A class action law suit is warranted, but we all know the “Federal Courts” historically protect corporations from the “anger” and damage inflicted on consumers. Maybe the Federal Reserve will step in to save Frigidaire/ Sears and GE just like they did Bear/Stearns, while the little guys gets screwed and tattooed, again!!!! What a racket! Is America a nation of Enrons?
March 31st, 2008 at 7:55 pm
Appliance recalls and class action suits are really not that uncommon. GE, Maytag and ASKO all had major recalls issued on some of their dishwashers last year. And of course, who could forget the Maytag Neptune fiasco from a few years ago. I think if a point is proved valid by enough consumers, or at least a very willing law firm, the results will follow. Whether you’d be happy with these results is a different story - see our coverage and consumer comments on the ASKO dishwasher recall: http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-recall-information/asko-dishwashers-recalled-due-to-fire-hazard-released-06-14-2007-257/.
April 1st, 2008 at 3:18 pm
WHY WOULD ANYBODY PURCHASE A NEW SPIDER BRACKET WITH NEW STAINLESS STEEL INNER TUB WHEN FOR THE BETTER PART OF 200 HUNDRED DOLLARS WHEN:
1)I DO NOT NEED A NEW TUB. OLD ONE IS FINE ??????
2)UNDERLYING STRUCTURAL DEFECT,CHEAP METAL SPIDER ARMS STILL EXISTS?????
3)I’LL BE MAKING THE SAME REPAIR IN 5 YEARS OR LESS???
QUITE FRANKLY I’M NOT THE PROBLEM HERE!!! THIS IS STUPID! STUPIDITY AND CORPORATE GREED ARE THE PROBLEM HERE! Frigidaire the manufacturer is a thief!!!
April 2nd, 2008 at 3:24 am
Ok… so after ranting and researching for more than a week and the laundry is PILING up; I found a part 26970134453200 it is from the sears canadian parts counter, $160 inc tax (Alberta) this part is the whole assembly unit, inner, outer front back drum, spider berrings and pully. it is listed as a kit and the # is not supposed to exist, but it does. ? Online parts lists it as a rear outer tub. If you phone sears to order it they wont, because you have to be a tec to get it, but if you find a Sears parts wharehouse that has it in stock, (call the 1800# ), have them look for it in your area, flash the $ you walk out with it. The innards of the same old junky broken washer, and due to break again in ??? years (well water) this is my second!! Ok, so i hope you all can get this. My hubby and I put it in last night, the old spider bracket was really corroded and broken. My warrenty replaced it in 2005, I guess im supposed to expect it to last? Best of wishes on your decisions to keep /repair/ or relpace.
April 2nd, 2008 at 10:44 am
“I found a part 26970134453200 it is from the sears canadian parts counter, $160 inc tax (Alberta) this part is the whole assembly unit, inner, outer front back drum, spider berrings and pully. it is listed as a kit and the # is not supposed to exist, but it does. ?”
So what you are saying is that Sears sells this part for $160.00 while the same part is available to the consumer for #417.00, from other vendors? It does beg the question, if this part is available for 160.00, why are people being charged so much?
Everything on my washer works except for the disintegrated spider bracket. The bearings are fine, the inner tub is fine, the outer tub is fine. The baffle screws did pierce and score the inside of the outer shell. (Quicksteel epoxy putty, is a wonderful thing). I have great water, filtered and clean! I’m saying it again the spider bracket design is fn junk! The cheap white metal should have been stainless steel!
As for the price of $160.00 for the entire inner/outer tub assembly.
Sounds to good to be true. Could you provide a link or number to that Alberta store! I will pay the shipping. The cynic in me says, “I do not believe you!” The failure to make the spider bracket available to the public/consumer is indicative of an abject “scumbag mentality!” Period. Never mind the fact that a breach of the outer tub, permitting water to leak presents the danger of electrocution. The motor sits right at the “bottom” of the tub assembly!! I guess water travels up? This is a death waiting to happen!!!!
April 6th, 2008 at 3:24 am
The tub wont turn anyway, it went in fine but will not spin out, we went over all the wires with the meter on the spec sheet found inside the washer, and have replaced the door latch now and still no go, next is control board, then what? new motor? new pump? they work fine; its the whole washer that dosn’t… I thought I might save a bit by not replacing it just yet, but now i wonder… yes i did get a tub assembly for that price from the sears 1 800 # Problem is can i get it to spin???
April 8th, 2008 at 8:59 am
Detergent Bull-Tergent! stainless steel and aluminum will react with each other in water that contains free ions in a process known as Galvanic Corrosion (see link below):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
The electrolyte consists of ions that come from the water supply, various salts contained in soiled landry (sweat and urine), and the detergent itself.
I have yet to enjoy the fun of disassembling our washer or taking it in rear to buy the parts but, I am convinced that one or more of the spider arms are broken. The beast bangs about on the final high-speed spin even when completely empty. Another, test is to gently hit the inner tub (near the front rim) striking upwards and listening for a rattle or sustained vibration (like a tuning fork). By rotating the (empty) tub and repeatedly striking, I was unlucky enough to find a “sweet spot” that just rattles on and on. Our’s is a Gibson GWTR645RHS0 and has served our family of three boys just fine for almost 7 years. We bought the washer and dryer pair for about $1000 and thought it to be a good investment that should last us about 15 years - Ha! After researching this topic for a day on the internet, it would apear all brands of front loading washers are designed for a shorter than expected life. I could choose to not repair the darn thing and just set the final spin control to slow. Then put the sopping wet cloths into the electric dryer. Then all that energy savings tax credit will only pay for about 2 months of higher electric bills. So much for energy conservation!
April 11th, 2008 at 12:59 pm
were having the same problem have kenmore 44832 front load already replaced little peg to shut door 50.00, baffel 100.00, now we need bearings– havent broke it down to the spyder, but the drum has alot of play and is chewing up the plastic front its still under waranty but sears will not just send us the part their repair man has to come out to look at it my husband already has the washer broke down already did his job my first washer was a hot point and it lasted 15 years. i really dont know what to do fix this or get a new one this only lasted 5 years paid 1,000. for it not happy with sears, i shouldnt have to by the whole back tub for bearings
April 11th, 2008 at 5:24 pm
Try calling Frigidaire (phone number: 800-374-4432). Have the model number ready. 44832 is a Sears number. There should be another number on the machine that looks like 417.11111111 (help finding your model number: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx ) Explain the situation to them, ask for a supervisor if necessary. They may send you the part under warranty without having the tech come out.
Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
April 11th, 2008 at 11:56 pm
Today I dropped off my Frigidaire front loader to a local repair and used appliance sales guy and gave it to him. I bought a new Inglis front loader and hope it lasts me a while. I put new bearings in the Frigidaire a month ago but this week the drum completely detached itself from the spider arm and I have no intentions of taking it apart and putting any more money or time into it. I will never buy anything made by GE, Kenmore, Frigidaire or anything else made by the same people (and I found a list on the Internet that shows who makes what).
April 12th, 2008 at 8:41 pm
Thank you for this great information. The video really tells all. We purchased the Sears/Frigidaire 417.42042100 in Feb 2002 and now it is very noisy. I can feel the roughness when I turn the drum by hand. Obviously a bearing problem. We ALWAYS use liquid HE detergent. Since it is clear that this issue is quite common, I do not want to waste time and money fixing it. (Louis, Thank you for convincing me.)
Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement model? I want something made in the US but I’m open to other suggestions as long as it is not made in China.
April 13th, 2008 at 8:04 pm
Absolutely incredible. This information has just made me cancel my order to purchase a Kenmore today. I’m so greatful for stumbling across this info prior to purchase. I’ll be doing a great deal more research before purchasing a front-load…if at all now (but definately not Kenmore or Fridgidare). I’ll be sure to “tell two friends”….
April 13th, 2008 at 10:21 pm
Whirlpool Duet is not a bad machine as far as front loaders go. In terms of reliability, a regular Whirlpool top load is at the top of my list. Rarely breaks, and when it does it’s usually a simple and inexpensive fix like replacing a motor coupling.
April 13th, 2008 at 11:02 pm
The machine I replaced my Fridgidaire is an Inglis, which is made by Whirlpool so I’m hoping it will prove to be reliable. Top loader is not good for us as we’re tight for room and must have a set stacked rather than side by side.
April 14th, 2008 at 3:20 am
Well,
Call me crazy but I’m replacing my Kenmore/Frigidaire with as close as I could find to the same thing–scored tub, stupid aluminum spider arm and all. After two weeks of research where I literally spent whole afternoons or mornings doing research, reading blog after blog, review after review, I’ve decided to go with the “devil I do know” rather than one I don’t.
The internet I believe has created a new phenomenon in how big white box appliances are marketed. There now does not exist a machine for sale that has a history longer than about three years–except maybe for these Kenmore/Frigidaires–so there is NO longevity record for any of them. (Or happy people don’t consult washing machine reviews and blogs–they just do their laundry like I used to and plan to do again after delivery tomorrow).
I read about Duets not loading enough water, LG’s taking an hour or more to do a load, Affinitys having filters that are on the bottom left back side of the machine which require a service rep to clean (now there’s design brilliance for you).
I’ve now been lulled into the mantra that your washing machine is now only built to last about three years (no one warrants them for longer). And I’m now able to stand with some sort of twisted pride and say that I got seven years out of mine.
Mine did loads for seven people seven days a week for seven years ever since I got it in 2001. Four of us are teens including one football running back with white (!) uniform pants, hockey gear for three, queen size comforters, towels, beach towels — the whole time spinning them nearly dry and therefore saving my dryer’s time and costs. I’ve loved this machine until the day it broke through its plastic tub with the LOUD sound of grinding rocks.
After days of research I’ve concluded none of them are “made well” anymore and I hope to get five years out of this one–the cheapest on sale one I could find. With the $110 five year service contract (which supposedly means if anything breaks during that time they’ll fix it) and the $60 delivery charge because I live in the boonies, I’m paying about $722.
The only other thing that tempted me was the lovely newish Speed Queens at the laundromat–available in an in-home version for $1295. However, one had a post-it note on it the first day I was there about spin cycles not spinning completely.
I wonder if my rather constant use of Borax and never using anything other than Tide- not the HE or HD kind may have “prolonged” its life. (See–the thought police have me accepting seven whole years as being “prolonged” instead of “pathetic”.) I know Borax makes glass-like crystals when super concentrated. Maybe it had a bit of coating effect or water softening effect? I’d love to know more about the chemistry as someone posted. Maybe it’s that because my washer is jammed in a corner between a wall and my kitchen cabinets there is not a lot of room for it to torque the spider arm too far out of whack.
I plan to stay tuned in case something emerges that is worth switching to — in about five years.
Happy laundering, C
April 14th, 2008 at 1:47 pm
ok opted to not repair my kenmore, im going top try an LG seemed like a nice machine and i think we need to readjust our expectations . the truth is they dont make it like they use to nor will they ever again. after figuring out i average 10 loads a week (family 0f 5) –2 boys! my laundry cost me .50 a load just for the machine cant really complain on that am i making a mistake about going to LG i guess ill find out im expecting another 5 years . all of this still beats the laundrymat or the washboard.
April 17th, 2008 at 4:44 pm
Every one needs to know that the expensive parts are under warranty for ten years the outer drum front and rear, the pulley, the inner drum. GE sent me all four parts retail value 1200.00 on their web site, got them today. Before I under take this project I am wondering if any one know if the drum seal the giant O ring ( the one between the two halves) should be replaced or can the old one be used?
April 18th, 2008 at 1:26 am
Wally, if that’s the case than why in the world wouldn’t they have sent you the 5 cent gasket to complete it all?? I had no idea, I thought the drum was something like 5 yr warranty, it’s too late, I bought a new machine and happily dumped the GE, never to buy another again.
April 19th, 2008 at 5:29 pm
My Kenmore front load washer was nearing the end of the final spin when it sounded like someone threw gravel into the spinning tub. I thought it might be a coin or something that got in the pump, but the pump was fine. I presumed then it must have been something that shattered in the motor, but the motor turns fine and the resistances check out pretty close. Then I came across this web site and saw the U-tube video. I have not taken out the tub yet, still checking the electrical systems. My symptoms would seem to indicate the spider arm, but the tub spins smoothly with no sound of loose parts inside. However, I can’t get the motor to spin. I maybe haven’t tried enough cycles yet but I can’t get the voltage indicators from the speed control unit. However, if it was the speed control unit that failed, what would have been making all the racket? I am just curious about others’ experiences before I spend a lot of time tearing into the washer basket. I might note that we had a top load Kenmore for 23 years that required only two belt replacements, but my wife wanted a new washer, so…..
April 19th, 2008 at 8:20 pm
Correction on the above message. The motor and controls work fine and something does knock inside when it goes into a high speed spin. Looks like I may have the spider arm problem that everyone else is complaining about. If so, I may follow up on the parts mentioned above.
April 20th, 2008 at 1:23 am
Sounds like it. Keep us updated if you can.
April 20th, 2008 at 9:01 am
Sears tech was supposed to show b/w 8:00 - 12N today. Called at 12:20 and was told they had until 4pm to show up but they arrived at 2:00, claiming we weren’t even on their list. $699.51 estimate for the bearings failing—just slightly more than the stupid thing cost 3 years ago. Supposedly the “basket” is still under warranty bringing the cost down to $433.04. I only have to pay for replacement of the “sub kit” & “sub kit shell”. Incredulously as the serviceman what we could’ve done to prevent it when we only do 1-3 loads of wash/wk. (family of 2). Serviceman himself says they are always failing and the company knows but won’t build a better part!
April 20th, 2008 at 12:40 pm
The link below lists the inner basket and spider bracket. I would suggest that anyone who hears noise stop your washer. Drain washer and feel inner tub for looseness.
http://www.searspartdirect.com/partsdirect/displayPartDetailAction.action?partNumber=131618500&productGroupId=0026&supplierId=417
Instead of being sodomized by these less than honorable corporations order the part yourself and do the work yourself.
If your outer tub is scored and or pierced by baffle screw,
use epoxy putty to fill holes and fill in scored areas.
I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.
Also be sure to cut screws which secure baffle to inner tub’s inside, which extends out and score inner tub. The important thing is to listen for noises. Once you here whining like a jet engine, that is the first indication the spider bracket is compromised. If bearing are ok, do not replace bearings. A little silicone bead can be used to make sure outer tub is water tight. People can get out of this reprehensible cluster*uck by corporate design, for 200 bucks and some hand work. Not hard at all really. You will need a second set of hands when removing entire tub assembly out of washer machine housing. Made a mold of the bracket also!!!!! Ha ha ha……..
April 20th, 2008 at 12:56 pm
Took my tub out and two arms of the spider arm are broken. The bearings feel solid, and the noise was the screws just starting to score the outer tub. I caught it early since the noise just started at the end of the last cycle and we have not run it since. The spider arms are not corroded so badly, but it looks like fatigue failure. I suspect it is the flexing allowed by the weakened spider that gives the inner tub enough play so it rubs the outer tub.
On some other forums, people note that Sears will sell the whole tub kit (inner + outer)for $160 to customers who complain. When I price the whole kit on other sites, it is around $400 and Sears parts does not even list the entire tub kit. Does anyone have more info on that. I think the guy who said he got it from Sears was Canadian.
April 20th, 2008 at 1:45 pm
Has anyone here looked at or purchased the Staber top loading, horizontal axis washer? The drum is supported on both ends so it does not have the spider that has been giving us problems. It seems expensive but built to last - and it’s made in USA. Our 7 year old Kenmore is getting louder each day so we know the end is near…
April 22nd, 2008 at 1:50 am
Just as a followup. I called Sears Parts to inquire about the whole tub replacement assembly that several (Canadians) had mentioned for about $150. They knew nothing about it. I asked about a warranty replacement since the SS tub has a lifetime warranty and you can’t buy the spider support without the tub, so it must all be one part. They forwarded me to someone in warranties, who forwarde me to someone in appliances, who forwarded me to someone in laundry service who forwarded me to someone at corporate who forwarded me to someone in service. I was really surprised that no one that works at Sears has an address or e-mail, or at least that is what a couple of them told me. Anyway, the last guy in service told me that I would have to have a service tech come to the house to determine if it was a warranty replacement. I told him I already had it all taken apart on the basement floor and asked if I could just take it to the local Sears parts and service center. He said sure, and I did that today. They claimed that they were just parts and that the service people worked out of their houses as independent contractors and that I should have a tech come to my house and get charged a service call, but he would replace the inner basket and support at no charge. Maybe it was me standing there with my documents in hand the the unit so clearly broken and he just wanted to get rid of me. But anyway, I am getting a new inner basket and support out of the deal. My bearings seem to be OK for now, so I’ll put it back together and expect that I might have to replace the bearings in a couple of years, but will know what to look for the next time, and it will go much faster than before. Good luck to others with similar problems.
April 22nd, 2008 at 4:11 am
Thanks for the update!
April 28th, 2008 at 9:07 pm
Thanks to all of you for the great info. I had the ’sock in the soap drain’ problem and I get the jet whine when the machine comes off high speed spin. I’m bookmarkin’ this page for when mine pukes.
Thanks especially for the epoxy paint tip. I might just go in and paint mine pre-failure.
April 29th, 2008 at 5:55 am
As sad as this is… I have comfort today finding this web site…I had the 5 year protection agreement…after over $4000.00 of repairs for my Sears Kenmore front load HE3 model that I purchased in 6-02…And after contacting the BBB/Attorney generals office and my local media…. the Sears Technician supervisor has recommended that Sears replace my machine since they are needing to take out the guts and replace all the internal workings for the 3rd time…The bearings and shocks continue to go bad and the machine violently shakes causeing it to self destruct…Sears corperate would not honor their lemon policy… they have become crooks…they know they are selling a product designed to fail and they are getting away with it.
April 30th, 2008 at 3:09 pm
This is a massive rip off of the consumer:
Instead of being sodomized by these less than honorable corporations order the part yourself and do the work yourself.
If your outer tub is scored and or pierced by baffle screw,
use epoxy putty to fill holes and fill in scored areas.
I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.
Also be sure to cut screws which secure baffle to inner tub’s inside, which extends out and score inner tub. The important thing is to listen for noises. Once you here whining like a jet engine, that is the first indication the spider bracket is compromised. If bearing are ok, do not replace bearings. A little silicone bead can be used to make sure outer tub is water tight. People can get out of this reprehensible cluster*uck by corporate design, for 200 bucks and some hand work. Not hard at all really. You will need a second set of hands when removing entire tub assembly out of washer machine housing. Made a mold of the bracket also!!!!! Ha ha ha…….
Anyone interested in just a bracket?? Beat these corporate “slime bags” at their own game!!!!!! Do not allow yourself to be screwed by these scumbag corporate lying pieces of cow dung!!!!
April 30th, 2008 at 3:13 pm
speaking of cow dung……….
LIFE LIBERTY AND PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS IN THE HANDS OF CORPORATE OIL SPECULATORS………….
no pattern of “dysfunctional corporate conduct” here in America folks……….
May 2nd, 2008 at 1:32 am
I completed this repair three months ago. the cause is bad design. there is a tremendous amount of force exerted on the bearing. the front of the drum is not supported. the only support is the rear bearing. laundry and water are heavy. recall your high school physics. weight times arm equls moment. the weight on that bearing is far more than it is designed for. the machine needs an idler wheel supporting the front of the drum to take some of the weight off of the bearing and spider assy. pretty simple to figure out actuallt
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:11 am
Same here, same here. We have the dryer, which is working well - both on the raised pedestals. I will NOT buy this POS again (or spend a few hundred dollars to fix it just to have it happen again next year).
WHAT ARE YOU FOLKS BUYING AS A REPLACEMENT? Experience?
Thanks,
Matt
May 5th, 2008 at 1:49 pm
Good news and bad news folks. I have a front loader that also had a spider assembly failure (after 3 and 1/2 years of service - 6 months AFTER that 3 year service agreement expired). I did notice that they changed the design to eliminate the screws that damaged the tub.
However, as the unit was failing, the front of the drum wore a groove into the front of the tub and chewed up front of the tub.
May 5th, 2008 at 7:09 pm
Well, I am having the same problem and don’t have the time to fix it myself. I am going to buy a new one. Probably the same thing again but what do I do with the old one? It seems a shame to send it to a landfill. Companies should be held accountable for the garbage they are creating by not providing parts at a reasonable cost to the consumer. Is anything being done about this?
May 6th, 2008 at 3:24 am
How come and why are these “scumbags” getting away with this abject premeditated rip off? Complete Abject scumbags…………..
May 14th, 2008 at 8:31 pm
This quote by Mike in NH is dead on the money. What everyone here seems to be experiencing is a engineered in [poor] design feature, not a bug.
“I completed this repair three months ago. The cause is bad design. There is a tremendous amount of force exerted on the bearing. The front of the drum is not supported. The only support is the rear bearing. Laundry and water are heavy. Recall your high school physics. Weight times arm equls moment. The weight on that bearing is far more than it is designed for. The machine needs an idler wheel supporting the front of the drum to take some of the weight off of the bearing and spider assembly. Pretty simple to figure out actually”
I went through basically the same sequence and litany of failure as described in the video and by pretty much everybody here; except I had already had to change out the electronic controller, motor (bearing noise in that too) and the water pump before attaining the coup de gras of the spider/drum/bearing issue, which is where I am at now. I am already approx. $400 into this pile of crap before even contemplating the expenditures discussed for the big problem now at hand.
For what it’s worth, I think the unbalance caused by spider bracket/bearing problems, making the tub loosey-goosey, caused the motor issue, but that is just an educated guess. Bottom line, if you are going to fix the thing at all, do it early when you first start hearing noise, so you don’t exacerbate the problem irretrievably. Also, without any question, cut or grind those stupid screws down while you are in there!
I just cannot see chasing any more good money after bad at this point. Appears it will be another $200+ and a whole lot of hassle. Screw it. I will have to say, I sure wish I had known about this site when I experienced my very first issue; I would have taken a few more precautionary steps (did I mention the damn screws? Also, the Rustoleum or other sealing of the junk/pot metal described above is a very bright idea) while I was already in there the first time, and I would likely be fine for years to come. But Nooooo! I have/had a Kenmore 417.42042100 manufactured January of 2002. Thanks again, this really is a wonderful site.
May 14th, 2008 at 10:22 pm
just a follow up my LG that i replaced my kenmore with is working very well i think it uses less water and gets the clothes cleaner
so far so good—- and im scraping my kenmore frontloader @225.00 a ton
May 15th, 2008 at 12:28 pm
Mr. Moore,
“I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.”
Thanks for the “bright idea” compliment on my previous post! It is unfortunate and I wonder why this simple “measure” to protect the consumer’s investment, was not taken by the manufacturer? Is this by design?
May 15th, 2008 at 4:32 pm
Yeah, you got me there. No clue. Proper length screws might even cost less than ones that are too long (granted it would be by fractions of a penny maybe, but still). Better metal on the spider assembly, what, maybe couple of extra bucks per unit? Better bearing another few dollars? Bottom line, the thing could be infinitely better for maybe $5-$7, maybe less; that really does lead one to conclude, as so many here have, that it is designed obsolescence for profit off of the repairs.
I am now shopping for the replacement unit. Have looked at the Duet that the hosts here mentioned, but the reviews I saw were not great on reliability. The LG appears to have stabilization/vibration issues. Am kind of toying with GE Appliances 3.8 cu. ft. IEC King-Size Capacity Frontload Washer Sears item# 02606707000 Mfr. model# WBVH5200JWW or Maytag EPICz 3.7 cu. ft. IEC Super Capacity Plus Front Load Washer
Sears item# 02606272000 Mfr. model# MHWZ400TQ.
Does anybody know anything about either one of these? Would be very grateful for any information. Or on any other machine in the $600-$750 range. Thanks.
May 15th, 2008 at 5:03 pm
i got an LG i looked in the consumer reports and they do rank high i think as lng as you have a level spot the vibration isnt a problem i havent had an issue of mine its on a hand made pedisstal. im very pleased with the functions and how it has handled so far i have a family of 5 with 2 boys that get very dirty.
May 15th, 2008 at 9:42 pm
GE’s appliance division is up for sale right now (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/15/business/15ge.html?em&ex=1210996800&en=bf5484765de621b3&ei=5087%0A). I wouldn’t recommend purchasing a GE appliance until the sale has been finalized.
May 15th, 2008 at 10:01 pm
Thanks Appliance Journal. I saw that and assumed the same thing. So, that now leaves me at the Maytag or the LG which is back in the picture. When I was at the local parts warehouse one of the 2 or 3 times I went to waste time and money on the kenmore/Fridgidare, one of the guys there said LGs are great, but if they do break, you simply cannot easily get parts for them. I am now newly attuned to the fact that a front loader may well break. Any thoughts on this and the Maytag and/or LG in general?
May 15th, 2008 at 11:34 pm
I’m still considering the Staber top loading horizontal axis washer. The thing is built like a tank! and the drum is supported on both ends so you do not have to worry about a spider. The design looks simple and supposedly it is easy to repair. And it’s made in the US. I just don’t know anyone who has one. Doe anyone here have experience with it?
My Kenmore is getting louder…
May 16th, 2008 at 4:51 pm
FYI,
The “3.1 IEC” measurement on the Sears and GE and all the related machines is the exact same size as the former 2.8 cubic whatevers that they used to measure by. They just changed the measurement units.
C
May 16th, 2008 at 5:34 pm
I am a lawyer. Not saying I would personally handle it, might or might not, but I know a lot of trial attorneys. How many of you here would be interested in joining an action against Fidgidare/Sears? I am interested in at least gauging interest. Thanks
May 17th, 2008 at 10:03 pm
I would be interested in joining a class action against Sears .My washer failed in 4.5 yrs. Bearings seised
May 18th, 2008 at 4:53 pm
My Kenmore is failing after 6 years of daily use. I, too, am angry with the poor design and believe they could easily have made it better. However, I am NOT interested in a class action suit.
What is our goal here? To be compensated for our dissatisfaction? To make a better product? If a suit is successful, the individual victims typically receive a minuscule percentage of the award. The biggest individual winners by far are the attorneys. This does not help the “wronged” purchaser, nor does it result in a better product. It only draws money from the system leaving fewer dollars for engineering an improved design.
I don’t work for Kenmore or Sears nor does anyone in my family. I’m just a consumer. I vote with my purchasing dollars not with the legal system.
May 18th, 2008 at 7:21 pm
A strikingly uninformed and myopic view of a process you clearly know nothing about; you are buying off on canned talking points and spin spoon fed to you by corporate entities and the greedy people that serve them. The same people, I might add, that designed and sold you the very thing you complain of. But you want to hold them accountable for that by doing - wait for it - nothing. That ought to really show em! Or not. Thanks for the gratuitous lawyer bashing though.
May 18th, 2008 at 8:52 pm
Sorry! I did not mean that comment to be seen as “gratuitous lawyer bashing”. Nor am I defending the people that sold me “the very thing I complain of”. You asked if people would be interested in joining a class action suit and I answered.
I believe that this site and that informative, technical video posted back in Sept 2007 are powerful tools. I have told at least three people about this site and intentionally used a few key words in my postings here so anyone else searching the internet for comments on the Kenmore will see it and note the problems.
I won’t hold my breath waiting for a check from Kenmore/Sears to compensate me for all my trouble. And likewise they should not be waiting for me (and everyone I’ve told, and everyone who has found this link) to send them a check for a future purchase.
On the bright side, (and there is always a bright side) we have all learned a lot more than we ever knew about the design of a washing machine.
Mine is still working, by the way. We estimate it has done more than 2000 loads. Not bad for a dumb design but I still will never buy a Kenmore again.
(If you would like to discuss this further we should probably do it offline. This thread’s title is: “Why Kenmore Front Load Washers Fail” and I believe at this point we are drifting off topic.)
May 18th, 2008 at 9:45 pm
Agreed. And I am not necessarily personally interested in doing said litigation, if there ever was to be any. I was really more interested in seeing how many would say they were at least interested, and if it was a lot, was then thinking of forwarding this thread to Sears General Counsel and Legal Dept. I am convinced that they have intentionally made their “loss leader” (although that is not really accurate here, I doubt they are taking any loss) low priced, but very shiny looking, washer semi-defective in order to churn repair and parts income. And clearly a winning strategy for them so far; for us, not so much.
May 19th, 2008 at 1:37 pm
Interested………….
Sodomy by design becomes more evident with exposure! The affidavit of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Naujocks, was rather enlightening during the Nuremberg Trials. I wonder if a few internal documents from Sears and or Frigidaire, now Electrolux of Sweden, might reveal the scope of this “rip off.” Like the Tobacco industry corporations lie all the time to protect scumbag policies/stealing, under the color of law, while avoiding accountability. Maybe a motion for summary judgment by plaintiffs would have to be granted, given the facts of this case as presented by this website’s posters! In fact anybody with 1/3 of a brain utilizing 1/10 of its undeveloped reasoning capabilities can see the reality and the breath and scope of the “scam” taking place here…….
“..corporate scum in corporate crime have raped and continue to rape the governed many a time.”
As I have stated before: Imagine a mother with child, four hellions loose while piles of dirty cloths are mounting to the height of Mt Everest? This is to easy the con man said!
May 19th, 2008 at 3:30 pm
I recieved a call from Sears yesterday wanting to extend my warrenty another year….I told them that sears was already doing that for free…the sales person asked why? I told them that Even though my machine met their criteria for replacement, they refused…She was shocked as she sells these to people. I have had 3 senior technicians out to my home to repair my machine since dec.07 2 of which said my machine was junk and it needed to be replaced….last week they sent 3 senior techs to determine if they could repair my machine….they replaced a part and left….It did not fix the problem….now the lights are flickering on the console. They have spent over $4,000 to repair my machine and keep sending out technicians when the machine wont work right and nothing they do fixes it. Sear corperate are criminals. They will not honor their repair/ replacement policy and I was told by the Technician that the machine was designed to fail..
I am currantly working with an attorney to send them a letter but if anyone wanted to file a class action law suite. I am all for it … I currently have an open complaint with the Attorney generals office. They need each of you to file your complaint….They cannot pursue Sears unless they get enough complaints. PLease contact the Attoney Generals office. Jennifer Redding…Mediator at the consumer protection division for the state of Kentucky. 502-696