Why Kenmore Front Load Washers Fail

Why do Kenmore front load washers fail shortly after their warranty expires? A rusted drum support, a drum screw cutting through plastic tub, etc. This excellent video clip, courtesy of a youtube user tanksalotct, shows how and why Kenmore front load washers fail. Check it out for yourself and share your experience by commenting below.

Metal inner tub with spider assembly
GE part number WH45X10006 (average price is $299)
Frigidaire part number 131618500 (average price is $230, AppliancePartsPros price is 194.50, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2107258&pn_=131618500)

Rear outer tub and bearing assembly
GE part number WH45X10007 (average price is $320)
Frigidaire part number 131525500 (average price is $176, AppliancePartsPros price is $159.95, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2578105&pn_=131525500)

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938 Comments For This Post

  1. George Says:

    I just finished installing the Rear shell/bearing and the inner spin tub in my front load Kenmore after 5-6hours work overall and $367. Had to buy the separate parts from “Reliable Parts” here in Canada even though Sears carries the whole assembly (complete shell with spin tub inside). They will not sell the assembly – it’s only for their techs to install as a flat priced repair ($500-$600).
    This all could have been avoided if we had known about the powdered detergent problem, which we were’nt told about and is not in our manual – it’s eight years old and has been getting louder over the last year. Spider bracket was still OK but bearing and shaft were a mess. Thanks for the info. I used the instructions at: http://www.applianceaid.com/417_Frigidaire_washer.html

  2. larry jsmith Says:

    i have the same promblem

  3. jeffrey ferguson Says:

    do the other two with the same problem also use powedered det.? what do the three long screws fasten to the inside of the drum?

  4. frank Says:

    `i just ordered kenmore front loader and im waiting delivery will i be sorry

  5. Louis Says:

    Our GE Gallery front load washer is now 7-1/2yrs old and has been getting noisier over the past year or so. I suppose the bearing is gone, maybe more and from what I have read I will have to at least replace the inner half of the tub. When I rotate the SS tub by hand it feels very rough and bumpy, there is no leak so far. I’m regretting buying into this hole front load system, we paid over a $1000 for this thing and expected at least 20 yrs service from it, so much for the “savings”.

  6. Teri Says:

    Any suggestions for those of us who just purchased this machine?

  7. Louis Says:

    Well it looks like the only fix is the replacement of the inner tub at the very least, at a cost of about $200 for parts alone. Mine although is noisy is still functioning otherwise normally with no leaks although I think it’s only a matter of time. Till then I’m going to continue using it as it is then will take it apart and evaluate. So far it seems like no one has been able to replace the bearing on it’s own, that’s too bad because I have a good source for bearings (would cost about $10!). louis

  8. George Says:

    For those who have recently bought these machines, I think you are probably better off as long as you are using the correct detergent (HE liquid)

  9. Louis Says:

    I have been using liquid detergent from day one, never powder so I’m afraid that alone is not enough to ward off the bearing distruction.

  10. Sean Says:

    I can’t believe I am reading this!

    For my own particular reasons, I thought I would google “bearing recall kenmore washer” and I’m lead directly to this website.

    We purchased our washer in 2002

    The spider drum failed in 2005. The entire drum assembly was replaced. I don’t recall that the repair was warranteed.

    Aparently, the bearing and the shock damper failed last week, of which I’m told is not under warrantee.

    $450 was the repair quote.

    We have always used liquid detergent but I was advised today by the repairman that we should be using the HE type?

    I am going to make sure I have a good look at the guts of this thing when they go to fix it.

    Any suggestions?

  11. appliancejournal Says:

    Sorry to hear about your trouble, Sean.

    One thing I wanted to point out is that Kenmore is just a brand owned by Sears. All Kenmore appliances are made by other manufacturers. At present time, there are at least two different brands of front load washers sold under the Kenmore brand – one made by Whirlpool and another made by Electrolux (Frigidaire). You can tell by checking the model number prefix (look for a small tag on the washer). 110 means Whirlpool, 417 means Electrolux/Frigidaire.

    Sounds like yours is made by Frigidaire. If so, check your warranty paperwork. You may still have warranty on the basket (part only), in which case you would only have to pay for labor.

    Using HE detergent with front load washers is strongly recommended by most manufacturers, and from what I hear it does help.

  12. Louis Says:

    Blaming detergent for bearing failure is pretty ridiculous if you ask me, for those who do use it and don’t have a problem they’re just plain lucky, I wasn’t. Sorry but “helps” does not sound good enough to me.

  13. Michael Says:

    Louis – I did find an article on-line last night with info on replacing just the bearings on these Kenmore 417 front loaders. It was a .pdf download. Don’t have it here, but will check at home later and post the link here.

  14. Louis Says:

    Michael, that sounds great, thanks. I have to do something soon, it is getting REALLY noisy, thumping loudly and it’s a matter of time before it starts leaking water. ……..Louis

  15. Michael Says:

    Here’s the link to the thread. There are two links to .pdf files with detailed instructions and the bearing part numbers. I think the second is the one I downloaded.


  16. Louis Says:

    Michael thank you for doing this, although it doesn’t give detailed instructions on actual bearing removal it does go into detail on taking it apart to that point. This is what I needed to know, that once apart the bearings can be replaced on their own, I’ll be able to remove them once all is apart. I suppose I should get a tub seal ahead of time? ……Louis

  17. Stacey Says:

    My husband and I bought a the Kenmore He2 Washer in July of 2006 and it’s dying!!! We are so frustrated. We didn’t purchase the two year warranty at the time–and now we are so bummed. It’s so foolish that they can sell an $800.00 washer that dies in 1 1/2 years. Anyone else experience this? We’ve been reading other blogs that said it was the motherboard–I wish they would just recall the stupid machine! We bought the matching dryer and it works just fine. What can we do? Just pay hundreds of dollars in repairs?

  18. N Ehresman Says:

    Thanks for the video clip. This is exactly the problem we have with our Kenmore Front Load which was manufactured in April 2003. I took the machine apart yesterday before watching the video. Two of the arms on the Spider bracket are broken. We also had shredded plastic from the outer tub in our last load but the screws did not cut the whole way through. We went out last evening and bought a Maytag. Anyone need parts off my Kenmore (Model 417.43142200). The motor is fine and all circuit boards?

  19. Joan Says:

    I have this Kenmore FrontLoad I bought 2 years ago burt just went bad weeks after the warranty expired. I have the Elite HE4t. Please Kenmore products are being recalled. I won’t advice anyone to buy Kenmore again.

  20. Louis Says:

    Well finally did it, took the darn machine apart, found the expected bad bearings but also found one of the spider arms broken. At $400 for these two items (just parts) I refused to put that kind of money into it. I knocked the bearings out and found replacements at a local bearing supplier. As for the arm I braced it to the others as well as screwed to the tub but unfortunetly what I feared was the case. It was great, quiet and smooth until the final super fast spin where it was obvious the drum is now out of balance and rocking and making a racket, but machine doesn’t move. I’m leaving it until it just explodes at this point or won’t go anymore, maybe a month maybe a year but I am not going through all that work again and definetly not going to put money into at this point. My point now is if you’re capable of dismantling it you can replace just the bearings as long as the spider arm is not broken. As soon as the bearing start “howling” (getting loud at spin) is the time to do them, if you wait until they’re really loose (you can actually move drum side to side by hand)then the spider arm will break and the inner drum will also scrape through the plastic tub. The bearings cost me $50 for the set, I re-used the gasket between the tub halves with no problems. Michael thanks again for the thread on the thorough instruction for the work.

  21. Scott Says:

    Well our GE Front loader washer after 6 yrs started making a ton of noise during the spin cycle. Figuring it was the rear bearing I took it apart but only to find that the bearing would have been ok if the spider bracket hadn’t broken two of it’s arms. Downer it that the spider bracket is not sold by itself. You have to buy the whole Tub-Spin assembly. ($300-$400) depending on who you talk to. But also need to replace the rear bearing since it was leaking too, another $300, so might as well buy a new washer. Unless anyone might know of a source to obtain just the spider bracket.


  22. Louis Says:

    Scott the bearings can be knocked out easy enough once the drum is apart, no need to buy inner tub. There are a lot of bearing suppliers that can easily match them (with better bearings I might add). The rear spider here is $199 canadian, this includes the entire stainless drum, where did you get 300-400?

  23. Scott Says:

    Louis, Thanks for the quick reply. The $300-400 is from the geappliance.com website. Tub-Spin assembly (WH45X10006) price $399.50 US. I found another site appliancepartspros.com with it listed at $297.48 US. OK, the big question then is, do you think it’s worth trying to save this 6 yr old washer? Thanks again.

  24. appliancejournal Says:

    I wouldn’t spend $300 on a GE washer, IMHO. GE makes good jet engines, appliances however are not so great. Again, my opinion only.

  25. Louis Says:

    I agree, this is why I replaced the bearings on their own at a cost of $50 and patched the spider arm for now, when it quits all together it’s going to the junk yard and never will I buy one again.

  26. Jeff Says:

    Thanks to all for your good info.
    I’m in the same boat – loud knocking during the spin cycle – reviewed all the above info, took washer apart and found that the spider arm is broken.
    So, I think I’m going to replace the bearing for $50 and the spider arms for $199 since $250 is much cheaper than an new washer, and I should get another 5 years out of it (hopefully :)
    Anyone know who to contact to get that spider assembly with the drum for $199? I’m in Ontario.

  27. James Joyce Says:

    I sent this to Sears Corporate!

    The link below shows why Sears has ripped of millions of patriotic Americans who have purchased Sears Appliances only to be disappointed with Sears’s corporate policy, by design ripping off the consumer with a costly repair scheme, to fix a defective product and design, on it face! The reality of buying a defective product, at considerable cost only to have it, “shit the bed,” in a major way is unacceptable and epitomized the scumbag mentality of corporate slime, preoccupied with profit while $ucking the consumer hard, with inferior products. Imagine driving down the road and the front wheel falls off your car after five years. I paid over a $1000.00 for a front-load Kenmore Washing Machine. only to get sodomized by SEARS

    1) Sear does not sell just.. spider bracket and spindle? What the hell???
    2) My stainless steel inner basket is fine! I do not need another one! Thanks but no thanks!!
    3) I can buy my own rear bearings and replace them without getting raped in the process!!
    4) Nice screw job with the “over sized steel screw” which scores the outer plastic tub from the inside rendering it useless and trash bound!
    5) To sell replacement parts which are not upgraded to address “ACKNOWLEDGED” underlying design defects is fraud and a is crime.

    If you want to know what is wrong with AMERICA TODAY!!
    It’s BULLSHIT LIKE THIS! Buy American and get screwed in the process? What classless “behavior” for an American Corporation, once respected, but respected no more!!

    An American………….

  28. Louis Says:

    Jeff, any local appliance repair shop can order it for you. I called sears (where I bought mine) and they gave me a list of service centers and I called one, he told me $199.00 and had to be ordered. Online I found a couple of places that had it as well but of course there is shipping involved. Make sure your seal is good and water is not going to leak through to the bearings, you can probably order one at the same time, a bearing supply place may have the seal as well if you take it in with you. BTW, grind down the three screws poking through the inner drum before re-assembly, the ones that likes to gouge out the outer tub when bearings go bad. Also the best way to instal the boot to tub would be while tub assembly is out of the machine, this would mean detaching the boot from the front of the washer completely. You have to carefully cut free the boot from the washer, I re-installed it and didn’t use any glue and it stays in place. The repair guy said you can use a bit of crazy glue at a few spots to hold it in, I would think a little contact cement may also work.

  29. Ron Says:

    Having replaced many bearings in the Kenmore front loaders, one thing is a constant. This washer is made by Fridgadaire for Sears. It is the same FLW with the Fridgadaire name on it. The reason for early failure seems to be the use of high suds (non HE) soap with ALL customers who had this work done. The screw in the basket holds the baffles in place.
    All appliances break. Today all appliances are not constructed as they were 20 years ago. The reason is that the price of the product hasn’t really increased to cover inflation. Something gave and cheaper materials was the only thing that could be controlled. This is true of all appliances today. What used to be serviced in 7-8 years is now being serviced in 3-5.

  30. Steve Menard Says:

    I have the same prob. as most of you. My 417.43142200 model Kenmore washer just gave out. It just started knocking loudly the other day during the fast spin cycle. Shortly after, we put another load in and it made the knocking sound during regular wash cycle. I was surprised so many people were having the same problem and only after five to six years of function. I was very happy to see the youtube.com post by tanksalotct. It has made my decision to service or scrap my washer a lot easier. My time is very valuable, and to spend two to three hundred dollars in parts alone for a washer I paid six hundred for is ridiculous. You might find it interesting to know that I called a repair man who worked on ac units, washers, dryers, etc., for over forty years. He said that Frigidaire-made Kenmore units are pieces of junk (by experience now, I say he’s right). He also said that Maytag, formerly top of the line quality, was bought out and now is also junk. He recommends buying Whirlpool, but I am currently looking at some LG washers and dryers. I have read good customer reviews of them which were much more highly reviewed than Whirlpool. It is a cop out to say that you can’t keep up with inflation; therefore, cheap quality construction and parts are implemented. If the price one company charges for a washer, let’s say, is $2500.00 and never has a hiccup for over twenty years and a competitor only charges $800.00 for a hunk of tin that breaks every five or six years, which one do you think the consumer would rather buy from? I guess the guy or gal who likes to waste liftime repairing or replacing cheap crap might think they are saving money, but my lifetime is limited. I will spend good money on someting that will last allowing me time to spend with friends and family, not loosing my religion on previously proud American name brands. I’m sorry if this sounds like a rant. I had to vent somewhere. No more Kenmore for this fella.

  31. Louis Says:

    No more for me as well, very disappointed with what I ended up with.

  32. James Joyce Says:

    The screws which fix the baffle to the inside of the inner tub extends considerably “longer” than required. I’m surprised “corporate bean counters” spent to much money on screws! The necessity of repair is guaranteed, once the sub standard bearings or spider bracket fails! The money which could have been saved by using “shorter screws” might have been “earmarked” for more resilient bearings and spider brackets? Your statement concerning the “longevity” of appliances manufactured; “…all appliances today. What used to be serviced in 7-8 years is now being serviced in 3-5,” again affirms an “underlying problem.” Yes appliances do break, but this is absurd. Both the manufacturer and retailers should be accountable for the marketing of $1000.00 plus FLWs requiring considerable repair costs, many within five years! This is just wrong! It is the classic rip off, fortunately absent the effects of products like, defective m-16s, exploding in the faces of GI’s firing weapon, while under fire!

  33. Brenda Dowst Says:

    This has been informative, disheartening and also confirming. Thanks for taking the time and effort to expose this fraud. I stumbled onto your video looking for parts for a front-loader Kenmore washer we purchased in the summer of 2005 for our states side house -we spend summers out of the country -using the machine only during the winter months for 3 adults. Two days ago,less than the three year mark – more like a full year of use, the machine refused to drain or spin. I’ve spent the past two days, taking the machine apart – perhaps its the control board or the pump drain -if I do the repairs -a total of $250.00 in parts without labor- impossible to know unless I have a Sears repairman come to check for 75.00 plus the hourly rate. Sooo, after what I have to look forward to, I should jump ship. Ironic that Sears spends lots of energy advertising its Quality Service – that’s obviously because they sell crappy products and they know it -seems deliberate and intentional to me. Growing up and as a young wife, we had Kenmore/Sears appliances that lasted and lasted and lasted and we loved buying from Sears.

    I will never buy another appliance or vacuum, tractor, or TV from Sears.

    What have others done about this consumer fraud? I got Sears Holding Corp.CEO’s name and address to write a nasty letter, which will go into the round file, I’m sure.

    I understand the anger and frustration -now I have to pay to have this machine picked up- because it’s too heavy for me to lift – trucked to the recycle and pay for its disposal- what a crime – at so many levels.

  34. Jeff Says:

    I’ve got a brand new control board you can try.
    e-mail me at muhley@hotmail.com if you’re interested – not sure how close we are with shipping.

  35. Brenda Dowst Says:

    Thank you – how thoughtful- I have a confession to make. Dave and I uncovered the drain pump,because my internet searches led me to suspect a problem, and to our amazement, there was a dental floss pick wedged in the propeller of the pump assembly. We removed it, put the machine back together- and it’s running again. Who knows for how long. So in this case, my condemnation of Sears seems unjustified, except that the front cover is shot- cracked and finally broke into two pieces over the soap dispenser within a few months of purchase, the door hinges are rusted and there is surface corrosion in several places – what an adventure. This actually doesn’t change my conviction that I need to avoid Sears as a shopping outlet. I will be much more cautious in general.


  36. Louis Says:

    Brenda I don’t want to rain on your parade but the bearings and spider arm will most definitely break sooner or later. Sorry

  37. Brenda Dowst Says:

    I’ve no doubt that that’s true – if it last another 6 months,I’ll be relieved.We hope to market our house in NH this spring. Unfortunately, I purchased a new stove, refrigerator, washer and dryer last August which we moved to our Nova Scotia house- I’ll most likely have similar issues there- hopefully we’ll have a couple of years without repairs.


  38. Scott Says:

    I’m finding myself in a quandry here to find a replacement washer since I’ve got limited space for a washer/dryer set. I’m needing something that’s no more than 26″ deep but that kind of forces me into the 3.1 cu ft. front load washers. And quess what, all that I’ve found is made by GE (the model that’s gone after 6 yrs), Frigidaire or Kenmore. But they’re all basically same washer made by Frigidaire with the inharient problem of poor drum design (Spider arm unprotected from corrosion and eventual structural failure).

    Step up to a 3.5 cu ft washers and the same concern exists since they all are made by Frigidaire.

    My question to everyone is what are you replacing your washers with????

  39. Brenda Dowst Says:

    We’ve had the same question and have started to research option. This website is interesting.
    We’re thinking this may even lead to a search for machines made by hotpoint, bosch, etc in the US. We also intent to check on Japanese models – they are smaller and seem to has fewer repairs- according to my Japanese daughter-in-law. I’m interested in other ideas as well.

  40. James Joyce Says:


    Nice call. Detergents use is the problem?? This is a text book rip-off. The denial and refusal to admit this inherent structural design, is by design and is “scumbag behavior.” A substandard spider bracket of poor quality is the problem! Consumers have again been screwed by corporate scum. Bend over and smile while when sodomized!!

  41. Louis Says:

    I don’t buy the detergent use as a problem either, I used the proper liquid stuff from day one, I had no leaks and yet spider arm is broken and bearings worn. The place I bought the replacement bearings from told me the original bearings were of junk Chinese quality, worth maybe $2! Local repair guy showed me one he had in for service that had the bearings still good but the spider was broken in 2 places, the machine was 4 yrs old. Junk, and after the known problem for so long now you’ld think they change something, they’re still the same design! Ha, reminds me of the Chrysler transmission issue that went on for so long. Well we’re free to shop elsewhere and that’s what I plan on doing thank you very much.

  42. Sheryl Says:

    I bought a kemnore in nov 01, by dec 03 the spider bracket was broken on 2 arms, i did get the ex warrenty but only once, in dec they tried to sell it to me again (I declined) and this march 08 it broke again!! Repairman says it is a result of well water damaging the bracket. I’m so validated to find this sight after searching for 3 days on the internet for a replacement machine. How can Sears sell the same part for 8 years in a row to fix obvious reacurrent problems? I dont need a drum!! I wonder if i could get one of the local farm machienists to fabricate a better spider thingy and put in a new berring cheeper, 7 years with a house of 8 is a lot of laundry but…How do we know another model hasnt made the same obvious slipup, and still refuse to reassess it. the reviews out there are really bad on most machines now and id rather spend that $ on a big tv, wouldnt u? maybe a washboard in front of a big screen…

  43. Cindy Says:

    Ours just died a different death but we suspect the bearing as the source of the problem. Suddenly three days ago it sounded like it was spinning the cement blocks I know are inside it. We turned it off and then on again and it seemed fine. I did another load and all seemed fine till it began to spin counterclockwise – rocks again– LOUD–VERY VERY LOUD!
    When we opened it up our plastic drum had two big pieces about the size of a paper plate broken right off the “corner” . We could actually look down inside and see the water sloshing around. Haven’t looked for parts yet. Not sure if I want to repair this one or find another similar one (I’ve LOVED this machine!!). I am on my third one in 19 years though — the first one came with the house and seemed to have 60s vintage literature. There are seven of us but I had hoped for more “mileage” than this.
    Anyone interested in shipping us the back half of your unscored plastic tub before you dump it all in recycling?

  44. Louis Says:

    I have an extra back half, I think I also kept the front half but I’m in Toronto, Ontario Canada, don’t know where you’re at but i have no use for it. It’s from a Frigidaire Gallery, probably same as the GE and Kenmore. Make sure the spider is not broken before you go any further.

  45. jim Says:

    My frigidaire front loader started knocking yesterday and fortunatley I found this site. took it apart today and the spider bracket is broken. it is corroded just like yours in the video. never used powdered soap only liquid. it is covered however with slimy detergent residue. can the spider bracket be bought seperately? was wondering if it had been coated in a plastic covering maybe it would not corrode. bought it in 2001.

  46. jim Says:

    just found a drum and bracket online for $219.00 includes shipping and tax. will fix it myself and hope for another seven years. the company i bought it off said he sells a couple a week and hears the same complaint about not being able to buy just the bracket. says the 25 year warranty on the drum does not cover the bracket but you can’t buy the seperatley.frigidaire and kenmore are taking a beating online and loosing alot of customers. this should have been recalled.

  47. Cindy Says:

    Would you be willing to share your source for drum and bracket for $219?
    Those of you who have repaired yours with this part, are there any other parts you would recommend getting at the same time?

    Our plastic seal, top left side, got blown apart last week. I have assumed it was the bearing and spider arms like everyone else’s but I’m wondering if it could have been the shocks/springs? Does anyone have experience with those? I wonder at their difficulty of repair and their price.

    The industrial front load machines at the laundromat yesterday did not spin as dry as my Frig 417… I’ve gotten seven years for seven people out of mine. Was hoping for lots more though.

    Couldn’t find HE detergent anywhere at the grocery store.

  48. James Jpyce Says:

    Sear refuse to sell just the spider bracket. Frigidaire / Sears / Kenmore are crooks. They have ripped off countless people with this scam. A review of my owners manual revealed nothing about HD detergents. Just another bold faced lie by corporate jerks avoiding accountability for a piss poor design. The fact is that the inner tub when spinning inside the outer plastic shell/tub has not exposed people to the dangers of fast spinning metal. Because no major bodily injuries have occurred, or have been buried, this precludes a product liability suit or safety recall. Defects are usual identified when people die or are maimed! Drive a “Pinto” lately!!! Sears sucks!!!

  49. Louis Says:

    Jim, are you doing the bearings as well, probably should because you don’t want them going and taking the spider arm out again. You can source the bearings on their own through a bearing supplier and they’re easy to pop out.

  50. Jeff Says:

    My spider arms recently went and I was able to get a drum from a month old machine that was trashed for other reasons. This was flukey for me, but I was about to get the part from Sears. I was told from Sears that the entire rear drum assembly was $152 – this includes the inner stainless steel drum installed in the rear outer drum with new bearings. You’ll have to call Sears, setup an appointment with their Techs but tell them to call to confirm (Sears won’t give the Tech’s ph. # for you to call them). When they do call, tell them you just want to pick up the part from them for that price – don’t have them come out because it will cost you a $75 service call to tell you what you already know. I replaced mine and it’s really not too bad of a job (and I had to pop in new bearings – this assembly will save you some time). If you spend $152 and get another 5-7 years I think that’s not too bad.

    Also, I read on another site that a guy in Winnipeg got the whole drum, including the front outer tub, for the same price. You may want to ask Sears what the price is for the complete drum, and if it’s $152 then just buy it and save yourself a ton work!

    I love Sears!!! (…kidding)

  51. James Joyce Says:

    Funny, new inner stainless steel tub with spider bracket attached $199.99 “Sears”
    Other suppliers $260.00

    Rear outer tub with bearings 172.00 “Sears”
    Entire inner/outer tub assemblies $417.00
    Sears will “not” sell just “spider bracket/shaft”
    Sears will not sell inner/outer tub assembly.

    Jeff said:
    “I was told from Sears that the entire rear drum assembly was $152 – this includes the inner stainless steel drum installed in the rear outer drum with new bearings.”

    This price is too cheap $152 and does not jive with what I have experienced with Sears. If I could have gotten out of this rip off for $152.00 I’d have done it. Frigidaire’s spider bracket’s design and metal is garbage. This is the bottom line. The reason they have gotten away with this is the protections the outer plastic affords. Most recalls happen when it is to late for the consumer. Drive a Ford Pinto lately? “All I want is a new spider bracket!” Just sell me a new spider bracket please………………..

  52. jim Says:

    Cindy the web site is frigidaireparts.com have your model # ready.

  53. jim Says:

    Cindy Iam sorry it is frigidairepartscenter.com

  54. Algernon Williams Says:

    Ditto……I have a Kenmore front load Model 970-C41032-00 purchased in Ontario, Canada approximately in 2003/4 which expired (after the warranty expired approximately a year ago) and I am now attempting to fix. On disassembly I confirm that two arms of the Sider Bracket Assembly were broken and the whole assembly was completely corroded all over wwith pockmarks.
    The engineering on this spider arm is inept to have a all metal part deteriorate in this way from an enviroment no chemically harsher than detergents. Obviously, the part is not undersized initially but the failure was induced due to chemical corrosion.
    Then to have the public pay for this mistake is unconcionable. There should be a recall or credit from SEARS for the spider arm assembly by now.

  55. jim Says:

    Louis I took your advise and removed the bearings. replaced them at local shop for $19.00. what about the seal did you reuse or replace? were can a replacement be found?

  56. James Joyce Says:


    Where did you get the bearings? I called a bearing supplier and the person quoted me a price of 100.00 for both inner and outer rear bearing and seal. Seems rather ridiculous 100 bucks for bearings. Needless to say I did get bearings yet! Suggestions?

  57. jim Says:

    James I got mine at bearing service co. http://www.bearing-service.com Warren, Ohio they have other locations. they were able to match the numbers on the bearings couldn’t help with the seal.

  58. appliancejournal Says:

    It’s very unfortunate, to say the least, that both the spider arm and the bearing kit are not available separately. For those of you that would like to proceed with the repair, the information below might be helpful.

    First, there are several GE front load washer models that were made by Frigidaire and use the SAME EXACT tub, bearing, spider arm, etc. These models are SH208W0WW, WCCH404V0WW, WPXH214A0CC, WPXH214A0WW, WPXH214F0CC, WPXH214F0WW, WSXH208A0WW, WSXH208A1WW, WSXH208F0WW, WSXH208T0WB, WSXH208V0WW, WSXH208V1WW. If you purchase these parts under GE’s name, you are paying additional markup. So, below is a cross reference from GE part numbers to Frigidaire part numbers for the “inner tub / spider assembly” and the “rear outer tub and bearing assembly”. I have also checked the price on these two items with 8 different part suppliers, including Sears, and at the moment AppliancePartsPros.com has the lowest price on both items. I am including the price and a direct link to the items below as well. Keep in mind, and as previously mentioned, Kenmore models starting with a 417 prefix are also made by Frigidaire. Disclaimer: AppliancePartsPros.com is a sponsor of ApplianceJournal. Sponsor or not, they do have the best deal on these items. Feel free to check using the part numbers below.

    Metal inner tub with spider assembly
    GE part number WH45X10006 (average price is $299)
    Frigidaire part number 131618500 (average price is $230, AppliancePartsPros price is $194.50, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2107258&pn_=131618500)

    Rear outer tub and bearing assembly
    GE part number WH45X10007 (average price is $320)
    Frigidaire part number 131525500 (average price is $176, AppliancePartsPros price is $159.95, link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2578105&pn_=131525500)

    AppliancePartsPros charges $4.95 for economy shipping, no extra charge for these oversized items.

    Whether or not there is going to be a recall or a class action lawsuit on this problem as always depends on the number of complaints, among other things. If you feel strongly about this issue, read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class_action#United_States and take action.

  59. Louis Says:

    I re-used the seal, I wasn’t having leaking problem and the person whom I purchased the bearings from said it looked fine. $19 for bearings is good assuming they were good quality, mine cost %50 for the pair but was assured they were very good quality, we’ll see.

  60. James Joyce Says:

    Thanks for the bearings link…… Appliance Journal,

    Thank you for the the cross reference numbers and the links provide for those who can do the repairs themselves. However, I respectfully disagree with the following statement:

    “Its very unfortunate, to say the least, that both the spider arm and the bearing kit are not available separately.” It is more than unfortunate! The fact that so many Frigidaire manufactured spider It is not limited to just Kenmore, Sears, and retailers! It is and was not an oversight, the poor design of the bracket and refusal to sell to consumers separately bearings and and/or spider bracket is intended and by design!arm assemblies are use by brand names like GE serves to further underscore the size of the problem:

    “First, there are several GE front load washer models that were made by Frigidaire and use the SAME EXACT tub, bearing, spider arm, etc. These models are SH208W0WW, WCCH404V0WW, WPXH214A0CC, WPXH214A0WW, WPXH214F0CC, WPXH214F0WW, WSXH208A0WW, WSXH208A1WW, WSXH208F0WW, WSXH208T0WB, WSXH208V0WW, WSXH208V1WW.” (12 different models just for GE?

    How many unsuspecting people have been gamed here, most of all the “mother(s) with child” tending to three hellions on the loose, with piles of laundry mounting, the size of Mt Everest! It is almost “to easy,” a con man would say! A class action law suit is warranted, but we all know the “Federal Courts” historically protect corporations from the “anger” and damage inflicted on consumers. Maybe the Federal Reserve will step in to save Frigidaire/ Sears and GE just like they did Bear/Stearns, while the little guys gets screwed and tattooed, again!!!! What a racket! Is America a nation of Enrons?

  61. appliancejournal Says:

    Appliance recalls and class action suits are really not that uncommon. GE, Maytag and ASKO all had major recalls issued on some of their dishwashers last year. And of course, who could forget the Maytag Neptune fiasco from a few years ago. I think if a point is proved valid by enough consumers, or at least a very willing law firm, the results will follow. Whether you’d be happy with these results is a different story – see our coverage and consumer comments on the ASKO dishwasher recall: http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-recall-information/asko-dishwashers-recalled-due-to-fire-hazard-released-06-14-2007-257/.

  62. James Joyce Says:






  63. Sheryl Says:

    Ok… so after ranting and researching for more than a week and the laundry is PILING up; I found a part 26970134453200 it is from the sears canadian parts counter, $160 inc tax (Alberta) this part is the whole assembly unit, inner, outer front back drum, spider berrings and pully. it is listed as a kit and the # is not supposed to exist, but it does. ? Online parts lists it as a rear outer tub. If you phone sears to order it they wont, because you have to be a tec to get it, but if you find a Sears parts wharehouse that has it in stock, (call the 1800# ), have them look for it in your area, flash the $ you walk out with it. The innards of the same old junky broken washer, and due to break again in ??? years (well water) this is my second!! Ok, so i hope you all can get this. My hubby and I put it in last night, the old spider bracket was really corroded and broken. My warrenty replaced it in 2005, I guess im supposed to expect it to last? Best of wishes on your decisions to keep /repair/ or relpace.

  64. James Joyce Says:

    “I found a part 26970134453200 it is from the sears canadian parts counter, $160 inc tax (Alberta) this part is the whole assembly unit, inner, outer front back drum, spider berrings and pully. it is listed as a kit and the # is not supposed to exist, but it does. ?”

    So what you are saying is that Sears sells this part for $160.00 while the same part is available to the consumer for #417.00, from other vendors? It does beg the question, if this part is available for 160.00, why are people being charged so much?

    Everything on my washer works except for the disintegrated spider bracket. The bearings are fine, the inner tub is fine, the outer tub is fine. The baffle screws did pierce and score the inside of the outer shell. (Quicksteel epoxy putty, is a wonderful thing). I have great water, filtered and clean! I’m saying it again the spider bracket design is fn junk! The cheap white metal should have been stainless steel!

    As for the price of $160.00 for the entire inner/outer tub assembly.
    Sounds to good to be true. Could you provide a link or number to that Alberta store! I will pay the shipping. The cynic in me says, “I do not believe you!” The failure to make the spider bracket available to the public/consumer is indicative of an abject “scumbag mentality!” Period. Never mind the fact that a breach of the outer tub, permitting water to leak presents the danger of electrocution. The motor sits right at the “bottom” of the tub assembly!! I guess water travels up? This is a death waiting to happen!!!!

  65. Sheryl Says:

    The tub wont turn anyway, it went in fine but will not spin out, we went over all the wires with the meter on the spec sheet found inside the washer, and have replaced the door latch now and still no go, next is control board, then what? new motor? new pump? they work fine; its the whole washer that dosn’t… I thought I might save a bit by not replacing it just yet, but now i wonder… yes i did get a tub assembly for that price from the sears 1 800 # Problem is can i get it to spin???

  66. Chris Says:

    Detergent Bull-Tergent! stainless steel and aluminum will react with each other in water that contains free ions in a process known as Galvanic Corrosion (see link below):


    The electrolyte consists of ions that come from the water supply, various salts contained in soiled landry (sweat and urine), and the detergent itself.

    I have yet to enjoy the fun of disassembling our washer or taking it in rear to buy the parts but, I am convinced that one or more of the spider arms are broken. The beast bangs about on the final high-speed spin even when completely empty. Another, test is to gently hit the inner tub (near the front rim) striking upwards and listening for a rattle or sustained vibration (like a tuning fork). By rotating the (empty) tub and repeatedly striking, I was unlucky enough to find a “sweet spot” that just rattles on and on. Our’s is a Gibson GWTR645RHS0 and has served our family of three boys just fine for almost 7 years. We bought the washer and dryer pair for about $1000 and thought it to be a good investment that should last us about 15 years – Ha! After researching this topic for a day on the internet, it would apear all brands of front loading washers are designed for a shorter than expected life. I could choose to not repair the darn thing and just set the final spin control to slow. Then put the sopping wet cloths into the electric dryer. Then all that energy savings tax credit will only pay for about 2 months of higher electric bills. So much for energy conservation!

  67. kandace Says:

    were having the same problem have kenmore 44832 front load already replaced little peg to shut door 50.00, baffel 100.00, now we need bearings– havent broke it down to the spyder, but the drum has alot of play and is chewing up the plastic front its still under waranty but sears will not just send us the part their repair man has to come out to look at it my husband already has the washer broke down already did his job my first washer was a hot point and it lasted 15 years. i really dont know what to do fix this or get a new one this only lasted 5 years paid 1,000. for it not happy with sears, i shouldnt have to by the whole back tub for bearings

  68. appliancejournal Says:

    Try calling Frigidaire (phone number: 800-374-4432). Have the model number ready. 44832 is a Sears number. There should be another number on the machine that looks like 417.11111111 (help finding your model number: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx ) Explain the situation to them, ask for a supervisor if necessary. They may send you the part under warranty without having the tech come out.

    Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

  69. Louis Says:

    Today I dropped off my Frigidaire front loader to a local repair and used appliance sales guy and gave it to him. I bought a new Inglis front loader and hope it lasts me a while. I put new bearings in the Frigidaire a month ago but this week the drum completely detached itself from the spider arm and I have no intentions of taking it apart and putting any more money or time into it. I will never buy anything made by GE, Kenmore, Frigidaire or anything else made by the same people (and I found a list on the Internet that shows who makes what).

  70. Jeff G Says:

    Thank you for this great information. The video really tells all. We purchased the Sears/Frigidaire 417.42042100 in Feb 2002 and now it is very noisy. I can feel the roughness when I turn the drum by hand. Obviously a bearing problem. We ALWAYS use liquid HE detergent. Since it is clear that this issue is quite common, I do not want to waste time and money fixing it. (Louis, Thank you for convincing me.)
    Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement model? I want something made in the US but I’m open to other suggestions as long as it is not made in China.

  71. lmac Says:

    Absolutely incredible. This information has just made me cancel my order to purchase a Kenmore today. I’m so greatful for stumbling across this info prior to purchase. I’ll be doing a great deal more research before purchasing a front-load…if at all now (but definately not Kenmore or Fridgidare). I’ll be sure to “tell two friends”….

  72. appliancejournal Says:

    Whirlpool Duet is not a bad machine as far as front loaders go. In terms of reliability, a regular Whirlpool top load is at the top of my list. Rarely breaks, and when it does it’s usually a simple and inexpensive fix like replacing a motor coupling.

  73. Louis Says:

    The machine I replaced my Fridgidaire is an Inglis, which is made by Whirlpool so I’m hoping it will prove to be reliable. Top loader is not good for us as we’re tight for room and must have a set stacked rather than side by side.

  74. Cindy Says:

    Call me crazy but I’m replacing my Kenmore/Frigidaire with as close as I could find to the same thing–scored tub, stupid aluminum spider arm and all. After two weeks of research where I literally spent whole afternoons or mornings doing research, reading blog after blog, review after review, I’ve decided to go with the “devil I do know” rather than one I don’t.
    The internet I believe has created a new phenomenon in how big white box appliances are marketed. There now does not exist a machine for sale that has a history longer than about three years–except maybe for these Kenmore/Frigidaires–so there is NO longevity record for any of them. (Or happy people don’t consult washing machine reviews and blogs–they just do their laundry like I used to and plan to do again after delivery tomorrow).
    I read about Duets not loading enough water, LG’s taking an hour or more to do a load, Affinitys having filters that are on the bottom left back side of the machine which require a service rep to clean (now there’s design brilliance for you).
    I’ve now been lulled into the mantra that your washing machine is now only built to last about three years (no one warrants them for longer). And I’m now able to stand with some sort of twisted pride and say that I got seven years out of mine.
    Mine did loads for seven people seven days a week for seven years ever since I got it in 2001. Four of us are teens including one football running back with white (!) uniform pants, hockey gear for three, queen size comforters, towels, beach towels — the whole time spinning them nearly dry and therefore saving my dryer’s time and costs. I’ve loved this machine until the day it broke through its plastic tub with the LOUD sound of grinding rocks.
    After days of research I’ve concluded none of them are “made well” anymore and I hope to get five years out of this one–the cheapest on sale one I could find. With the $110 five year service contract (which supposedly means if anything breaks during that time they’ll fix it) and the $60 delivery charge because I live in the boonies, I’m paying about $722.
    The only other thing that tempted me was the lovely newish Speed Queens at the laundromat–available in an in-home version for $1295. However, one had a post-it note on it the first day I was there about spin cycles not spinning completely.
    I wonder if my rather constant use of Borax and never using anything other than Tide- not the HE or HD kind may have “prolonged” its life. (See–the thought police have me accepting seven whole years as being “prolonged” instead of “pathetic”.) I know Borax makes glass-like crystals when super concentrated. Maybe it had a bit of coating effect or water softening effect? I’d love to know more about the chemistry as someone posted. Maybe it’s that because my washer is jammed in a corner between a wall and my kitchen cabinets there is not a lot of room for it to torque the spider arm too far out of whack.
    I plan to stay tuned in case something emerges that is worth switching to — in about five years.
    Happy laundering, C

  75. kandace Says:

    ok opted to not repair my kenmore, im going top try an LG seemed like a nice machine and i think we need to readjust our expectations . the truth is they dont make it like they use to nor will they ever again. after figuring out i average 10 loads a week (family 0f 5) –2 boys! my laundry cost me .50 a load just for the machine cant really complain on that am i making a mistake about going to LG i guess ill find out im expecting another 5 years . all of this still beats the laundrymat or the washboard.

  76. WALLY Says:

    Every one needs to know that the expensive parts are under warranty for ten years the outer drum front and rear, the pulley, the inner drum. GE sent me all four parts retail value 1200.00 on their web site, got them today. Before I under take this project I am wondering if any one know if the drum seal the giant O ring ( the one between the two halves) should be replaced or can the old one be used?

  77. Louis Says:

    Wally, if that’s the case than why in the world wouldn’t they have sent you the 5 cent gasket to complete it all?? I had no idea, I thought the drum was something like 5 yr warranty, it’s too late, I bought a new machine and happily dumped the GE, never to buy another again.

  78. Dr. Bill Says:

    My Kenmore front load washer was nearing the end of the final spin when it sounded like someone threw gravel into the spinning tub. I thought it might be a coin or something that got in the pump, but the pump was fine. I presumed then it must have been something that shattered in the motor, but the motor turns fine and the resistances check out pretty close. Then I came across this web site and saw the U-tube video. I have not taken out the tub yet, still checking the electrical systems. My symptoms would seem to indicate the spider arm, but the tub spins smoothly with no sound of loose parts inside. However, I can’t get the motor to spin. I maybe haven’t tried enough cycles yet but I can’t get the voltage indicators from the speed control unit. However, if it was the speed control unit that failed, what would have been making all the racket? I am just curious about others’ experiences before I spend a lot of time tearing into the washer basket. I might note that we had a top load Kenmore for 23 years that required only two belt replacements, but my wife wanted a new washer, so…..

  79. Dr. Bill Says:

    Correction on the above message. The motor and controls work fine and something does knock inside when it goes into a high speed spin. Looks like I may have the spider arm problem that everyone else is complaining about. If so, I may follow up on the parts mentioned above.

  80. appliancejournal Says:

    Sounds like it. Keep us updated if you can.

  81. Sharon Says:

    Sears tech was supposed to show b/w 8:00 – 12N today. Called at 12:20 and was told they had until 4pm to show up but they arrived at 2:00, claiming we weren’t even on their list. $699.51 estimate for the bearings failing—just slightly more than the stupid thing cost 3 years ago. Supposedly the “basket” is still under warranty bringing the cost down to $433.04. I only have to pay for replacement of the “sub kit” & “sub kit shell”. Incredulously as the serviceman what we could’ve done to prevent it when we only do 1-3 loads of wash/wk. (family of 2). Serviceman himself says they are always failing and the company knows but won’t build a better part!

  82. James Joyce Says:

    The link below lists the inner basket and spider bracket. I would suggest that anyone who hears noise stop your washer. Drain washer and feel inner tub for looseness.


    Instead of being sodomized by these less than honorable corporations order the part yourself and do the work yourself.

    If your outer tub is scored and or pierced by baffle screw,
    use epoxy putty to fill holes and fill in scored areas.

    I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.

    Also be sure to cut screws which secure baffle to inner tub’s inside, which extends out and score inner tub. The important thing is to listen for noises. Once you here whining like a jet engine, that is the first indication the spider bracket is compromised. If bearing are ok, do not replace bearings. A little silicone bead can be used to make sure outer tub is water tight. People can get out of this reprehensible cluster*uck by corporate design, for 200 bucks and some hand work. Not hard at all really. You will need a second set of hands when removing entire tub assembly out of washer machine housing. Made a mold of the bracket also!!!!! Ha ha ha……..

  83. Dr. Bill Says:

    Took my tub out and two arms of the spider arm are broken. The bearings feel solid, and the noise was the screws just starting to score the outer tub. I caught it early since the noise just started at the end of the last cycle and we have not run it since. The spider arms are not corroded so badly, but it looks like fatigue failure. I suspect it is the flexing allowed by the weakened spider that gives the inner tub enough play so it rubs the outer tub.

    On some other forums, people note that Sears will sell the whole tub kit (inner + outer)for $160 to customers who complain. When I price the whole kit on other sites, it is around $400 and Sears parts does not even list the entire tub kit. Does anyone have more info on that. I think the guy who said he got it from Sears was Canadian.

  84. Jeff G Says:

    Has anyone here looked at or purchased the Staber top loading, horizontal axis washer? The drum is supported on both ends so it does not have the spider that has been giving us problems. It seems expensive but built to last – and it’s made in USA. Our 7 year old Kenmore is getting louder each day so we know the end is near…

  85. Dr. Bill Says:

    Just as a followup. I called Sears Parts to inquire about the whole tub replacement assembly that several (Canadians) had mentioned for about $150. They knew nothing about it. I asked about a warranty replacement since the SS tub has a lifetime warranty and you can’t buy the spider support without the tub, so it must all be one part. They forwarded me to someone in warranties, who forwarde me to someone in appliances, who forwarded me to someone in laundry service who forwarded me to someone at corporate who forwarded me to someone in service. I was really surprised that no one that works at Sears has an address or e-mail, or at least that is what a couple of them told me. Anyway, the last guy in service told me that I would have to have a service tech come to the house to determine if it was a warranty replacement. I told him I already had it all taken apart on the basement floor and asked if I could just take it to the local Sears parts and service center. He said sure, and I did that today. They claimed that they were just parts and that the service people worked out of their houses as independent contractors and that I should have a tech come to my house and get charged a service call, but he would replace the inner basket and support at no charge. Maybe it was me standing there with my documents in hand the the unit so clearly broken and he just wanted to get rid of me. But anyway, I am getting a new inner basket and support out of the deal. My bearings seem to be OK for now, so I’ll put it back together and expect that I might have to replace the bearings in a couple of years, but will know what to look for the next time, and it will go much faster than before. Good luck to others with similar problems.

  86. appliancejournal Says:

    Thanks for the update!

  87. Jeff Says:

    Thanks to all of you for the great info. I had the ‘sock in the soap drain’ problem and I get the jet whine when the machine comes off high speed spin. I’m bookmarkin’ this page for when mine pukes.

    Thanks especially for the epoxy paint tip. I might just go in and paint mine pre-failure.

  88. tenessa Says:

    As sad as this is… I have comfort today finding this web site…I had the 5 year protection agreement…after over $4000.00 of repairs for my Sears Kenmore front load HE3 model that I purchased in 6-02…And after contacting the BBB/Attorney generals office and my local media…. the Sears Technician supervisor has recommended that Sears replace my machine since they are needing to take out the guts and replace all the internal workings for the 3rd time…The bearings and shocks continue to go bad and the machine violently shakes causeing it to self destruct…Sears corperate would not honor their lemon policy… they have become crooks…they know they are selling a product designed to fail and they are getting away with it.

  89. James Joyce Says:

    This is a massive rip off of the consumer:

    Instead of being sodomized by these less than honorable corporations order the part yourself and do the work yourself.

    If your outer tub is scored and or pierced by baffle screw,
    use epoxy putty to fill holes and fill in scored areas.

    I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.

    Also be sure to cut screws which secure baffle to inner tub’s inside, which extends out and score inner tub. The important thing is to listen for noises. Once you here whining like a jet engine, that is the first indication the spider bracket is compromised. If bearing are ok, do not replace bearings. A little silicone bead can be used to make sure outer tub is water tight. People can get out of this reprehensible cluster*uck by corporate design, for 200 bucks and some hand work. Not hard at all really. You will need a second set of hands when removing entire tub assembly out of washer machine housing. Made a mold of the bracket also!!!!! Ha ha ha…….

    Anyone interested in just a bracket?? Beat these corporate “slime bags” at their own game!!!!!! Do not allow yourself to be screwed by these scumbag corporate lying pieces of cow dung!!!!

  90. James Joyce Says:

    speaking of cow dung……….


    no pattern of “dysfunctional corporate conduct” here in America folks……….

  91. mike from nh Says:

    I completed this repair three months ago. the cause is bad design. there is a tremendous amount of force exerted on the bearing. the front of the drum is not supported. the only support is the rear bearing. laundry and water are heavy. recall your high school physics. weight times arm equls moment. the weight on that bearing is far more than it is designed for. the machine needs an idler wheel supporting the front of the drum to take some of the weight off of the bearing and spider assy. pretty simple to figure out actuallt

  92. Matt Says:

    Same here, same here. We have the dryer, which is working well – both on the raised pedestals. I will NOT buy this POS again (or spend a few hundred dollars to fix it just to have it happen again next year).



  93. Jon Finke Says:

    Good news and bad news folks. I have a front loader that also had a spider assembly failure (after 3 and 1/2 years of service – 6 months AFTER that 3 year service agreement expired). I did notice that they changed the design to eliminate the screws that damaged the tub.

    However, as the unit was failing, the front of the drum wore a groove into the front of the tub and chewed up front of the tub.

  94. Carolyn Says:

    Well, I am having the same problem and don’t have the time to fix it myself. I am going to buy a new one. Probably the same thing again but what do I do with the old one? It seems a shame to send it to a landfill. Companies should be held accountable for the garbage they are creating by not providing parts at a reasonable cost to the consumer. Is anything being done about this?

  95. James Joyce Says:

    How come and why are these “scumbags” getting away with this abject premeditated rip off? Complete Abject scumbags…………..

  96. Bill Moore Says:

    This quote by Mike in NH is dead on the money. What everyone here seems to be experiencing is a engineered in [poor] design feature, not a bug.

    “I completed this repair three months ago. The cause is bad design. There is a tremendous amount of force exerted on the bearing. The front of the drum is not supported. The only support is the rear bearing. Laundry and water are heavy. Recall your high school physics. Weight times arm equls moment. The weight on that bearing is far more than it is designed for. The machine needs an idler wheel supporting the front of the drum to take some of the weight off of the bearing and spider assembly. Pretty simple to figure out actually”

    I went through basically the same sequence and litany of failure as described in the video and by pretty much everybody here; except I had already had to change out the electronic controller, motor (bearing noise in that too) and the water pump before attaining the coup de gras of the spider/drum/bearing issue, which is where I am at now. I am already approx. $400 into this pile of crap before even contemplating the expenditures discussed for the big problem now at hand.

    For what it’s worth, I think the unbalance caused by spider bracket/bearing problems, making the tub loosey-goosey, caused the motor issue, but that is just an educated guess. Bottom line, if you are going to fix the thing at all, do it early when you first start hearing noise, so you don’t exacerbate the problem irretrievably. Also, without any question, cut or grind those stupid screws down while you are in there!

    I just cannot see chasing any more good money after bad at this point. Appears it will be another $200+ and a whole lot of hassle. Screw it. I will have to say, I sure wish I had known about this site when I experienced my very first issue; I would have taken a few more precautionary steps (did I mention the damn screws? Also, the Rustoleum or other sealing of the junk/pot metal described above is a very bright idea) while I was already in there the first time, and I would likely be fine for years to come. But Nooooo! I have/had a Kenmore 417.42042100 manufactured January of 2002. Thanks again, this really is a wonderful site.

  97. kandace Says:

    just a follow up my LG that i replaced my kenmore with is working very well i think it uses less water and gets the clothes cleaner
    so far so good—- and im scraping my kenmore frontloader @225.00 a ton :)

  98. James Joyce Says:

    Mr. Moore,

    “I would further suggest when you get the new spider bracket and inner tub, remove spider bracket from tub via removal of #6 10mm bolts, and paint with car primer and rustoleum paint! The spider bracket is made in “India.” The simple protection of this bracket from exposure to tub water would alleviate screwing consumers.”

    Thanks for the “bright idea” compliment on my previous post! It is unfortunate and I wonder why this simple “measure” to protect the consumer’s investment, was not taken by the manufacturer? Is this by design?

  99. Bill Moore Says:

    Yeah, you got me there. No clue. Proper length screws might even cost less than ones that are too long (granted it would be by fractions of a penny maybe, but still). Better metal on the spider assembly, what, maybe couple of extra bucks per unit? Better bearing another few dollars? Bottom line, the thing could be infinitely better for maybe $5-$7, maybe less; that really does lead one to conclude, as so many here have, that it is designed obsolescence for profit off of the repairs.

    I am now shopping for the replacement unit. Have looked at the Duet that the hosts here mentioned, but the reviews I saw were not great on reliability. The LG appears to have stabilization/vibration issues. Am kind of toying with GE Appliances 3.8 cu. ft. IEC King-Size Capacity Frontload Washer Sears item# 02606707000 Mfr. model# WBVH5200JWW or Maytag EPICz 3.7 cu. ft. IEC Super Capacity Plus Front Load Washer
    Sears item# 02606272000 Mfr. model# MHWZ400TQ.

    Does anybody know anything about either one of these? Would be very grateful for any information. Or on any other machine in the $600-$750 range. Thanks.

  100. kandace Says:

    i got an LG i looked in the consumer reports and they do rank high i think as lng as you have a level spot the vibration isnt a problem i havent had an issue of mine its on a hand made pedisstal. im very pleased with the functions and how it has handled so far i have a family of 5 with 2 boys that get very dirty.

  101. appliancejournal Says:

    GE’s appliance division is up for sale right now (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/15/business/15ge.html?em&ex=1210996800&en=bf5484765de621b3&ei=5087). I wouldn’t recommend purchasing a GE appliance until the sale has been finalized.

  102. Bill Moore Says:

    Thanks Appliance Journal. I saw that and assumed the same thing. So, that now leaves me at the Maytag or the LG which is back in the picture. When I was at the local parts warehouse one of the 2 or 3 times I went to waste time and money on the kenmore/Fridgidare, one of the guys there said LGs are great, but if they do break, you simply cannot easily get parts for them. I am now newly attuned to the fact that a front loader may well break. Any thoughts on this and the Maytag and/or LG in general?

  103. Jeff Says:

    I’m still considering the Staber top loading horizontal axis washer. The thing is built like a tank! and the drum is supported on both ends so you do not have to worry about a spider. The design looks simple and supposedly it is easy to repair. And it’s made in the US. I just don’t know anyone who has one. Doe anyone here have experience with it?

    My Kenmore is getting louder…

  104. Cindy Says:

    The “3.1 IEC” measurement on the Sears and GE and all the related machines is the exact same size as the former 2.8 cubic whatevers that they used to measure by. They just changed the measurement units.

  105. Bill Moore Says:

    I am a lawyer. Not saying I would personally handle it, might or might not, but I know a lot of trial attorneys. How many of you here would be interested in joining an action against Fidgidare/Sears? I am interested in at least gauging interest. Thanks

  106. charles Wolfe Says:

    I would be interested in joining a class action against Sears .My washer failed in 4.5 yrs. Bearings seised

  107. Jeff G Says:

    My Kenmore is failing after 6 years of daily use. I, too, am angry with the poor design and believe they could easily have made it better. However, I am NOT interested in a class action suit.
    What is our goal here? To be compensated for our dissatisfaction? To make a better product? If a suit is successful, the individual victims typically receive a minuscule percentage of the award. The biggest individual winners by far are the attorneys. This does not help the “wronged” purchaser, nor does it result in a better product. It only draws money from the system leaving fewer dollars for engineering an improved design.

    I don’t work for Kenmore or Sears nor does anyone in my family. I’m just a consumer. I vote with my purchasing dollars not with the legal system.

  108. Bill Moore Says:

    A strikingly uninformed and myopic view of a process you clearly know nothing about; you are buying off on canned talking points and spin spoon fed to you by corporate entities and the greedy people that serve them. The same people, I might add, that designed and sold you the very thing you complain of. But you want to hold them accountable for that by doing – wait for it – nothing. That ought to really show em! Or not. Thanks for the gratuitous lawyer bashing though.

  109. Jeff G Says:

    Sorry! I did not mean that comment to be seen as “gratuitous lawyer bashing”. Nor am I defending the people that sold me “the very thing I complain of”. You asked if people would be interested in joining a class action suit and I answered.
    I believe that this site and that informative, technical video posted back in Sept 2007 are powerful tools. I have told at least three people about this site and intentionally used a few key words in my postings here so anyone else searching the internet for comments on the Kenmore will see it and note the problems.
    I won’t hold my breath waiting for a check from Kenmore/Sears to compensate me for all my trouble. And likewise they should not be waiting for me (and everyone I’ve told, and everyone who has found this link) to send them a check for a future purchase.

    On the bright side, (and there is always a bright side) we have all learned a lot more than we ever knew about the design of a washing machine.
    Mine is still working, by the way. We estimate it has done more than 2000 loads. Not bad for a dumb design but I still will never buy a Kenmore again.

    (If you would like to discuss this further we should probably do it offline. This thread’s title is: “Why Kenmore Front Load Washers Fail” and I believe at this point we are drifting off topic.)

  110. Bill Moore Says:

    Agreed. And I am not necessarily personally interested in doing said litigation, if there ever was to be any. I was really more interested in seeing how many would say they were at least interested, and if it was a lot, was then thinking of forwarding this thread to Sears General Counsel and Legal Dept. I am convinced that they have intentionally made their “loss leader” (although that is not really accurate here, I doubt they are taking any loss) low priced, but very shiny looking, washer semi-defective in order to churn repair and parts income. And clearly a winning strategy for them so far; for us, not so much.

  111. James Joyce Says:


    Sodomy by design becomes more evident with exposure! The affidavit of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Naujocks, was rather enlightening during the Nuremberg Trials. I wonder if a few internal documents from Sears and or Frigidaire, now Electrolux of Sweden, might reveal the scope of this “rip off.” Like the Tobacco industry corporations lie all the time to protect scumbag policies/stealing, under the color of law, while avoiding accountability. Maybe a motion for summary judgment by plaintiffs would have to be granted, given the facts of this case as presented by this website’s posters! In fact anybody with 1/3 of a brain utilizing 1/10 of its undeveloped reasoning capabilities can see the reality and the breath and scope of the “scam” taking place here…….

    “..corporate scum in corporate crime have raped and continue to rape the governed many a time.”

    As I have stated before: Imagine a mother with child, four hellions loose while piles of dirty cloths are mounting to the height of Mt Everest? This is to easy the con man said!

  112. tenessa Says:

    I recieved a call from Sears yesterday wanting to extend my warrenty another year….I told them that sears was already doing that for free…the sales person asked why? I told them that Even though my machine met their criteria for replacement, they refused…She was shocked as she sells these to people. I have had 3 senior technicians out to my home to repair my machine since dec.07 2 of which said my machine was junk and it needed to be replaced….last week they sent 3 senior techs to determine if they could repair my machine….they replaced a part and left….It did not fix the problem….now the lights are flickering on the console. They have spent over $4,000 to repair my machine and keep sending out technicians when the machine wont work right and nothing they do fixes it. Sear corperate are criminals. They will not honor their repair/ replacement policy and I was told by the Technician that the machine was designed to fail..

    I am currantly working with an attorney to send them a letter but if anyone wanted to file a class action law suite. I am all for it … I currently have an open complaint with the Attorney generals office. They need each of you to file your complaint….They cannot pursue Sears unless they get enough complaints. PLease contact the Attoney Generals office. Jennifer Redding…Mediator at the consumer protection division for the state of Kentucky. 502-696-5389… I don’t know if they cross state lines, but maybe she can advise on this. please contact her and file a complaint.


  113. Alison Says:

    Well I am stuck…I need a front end load machine because I have to stack. I have a gas dryer that is working great BUT I had a Frigidaire Gallery Front end load that I bought in 1999 and it died 4 years later (bearing) so then I bought a Kenmore Frontend Load and it has just died (bearing) The repairs are so expensive that it is cheaper to buy a new one. Three washers in 81/2 years give me a break!!!!!Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand this time?

  114. kandace Says:

    Alison, i just replaced my kenmore with an LG looked at consumer reports before i bought it. ive only had it since the 26 of april but im very pleased with it. were a family of 5 so we do alot of laundry. it is the model just under the steam one
    good luck

  115. tenessa Says:

    I was also going to suggest the LG…I am hearing great things about it. But only time will tell. After so many years of building front loaders they still cannot get them to last…I believe the intent is for them not to last….

  116. Louis Says:

    I was in the same position, I needed a front loader and it had to be compact as I have a dryer over it and the ceiling is only about 6-1/2′ high. I bought an Inglis, time will tell, in the mean time I’m enjoying the quietness of it all.

  117. Steve Says:

    I just pull the innner steel drum and the spider was fracutred on all three spokes. I do not understand the engineering involved, if this is our best efforts at designing a washing machine I would hate to be the explorers that are looking forward to a trip to Mars. I am going down to the sears parts center to see if I can get just the spider, the drum is stainless steel and will never have the problems the aluminum spider had. I caught the repair before it ruined the outer plastic drum.

  118. Steve Says:

    bulllya, The whole situation is bullS**t, America is better than this front load washer planned failure, where is the recall notice on this part? Love it…………..

  119. Steve Says:

    I just ordered the repair drum and spider assembly, it was 227.00 woth shipping and the outer tub shell gasket. The part will ship directly to my home. There is no reason the spider could not ship on its own, it is a six bolt job to swap out the spider, can’t the sears/frigidaire/kemore make their money just selling the parts individually. For the love of whomever don’t they make enough money selling these washing machines at eight hundred bucks each? What the who!

  120. Steve Says:

    woth = with (SP err)

  121. Alison Says:

    So today I found out that the Kenmore that broke was made by Frigidaire. I would have never bought another Frigidaire after the first one broke. Unbelievable!!!! I would be in if anyone starts a class action suit.

  122. tenessa Says:

    sounds like Stores like sears need to be required to list who manufactures their kenmore product…my washer said Kenmore but it was made by whirlpool….I swore I would never by whirlpool again…but it was made by them… frankly No manufacturer in this country cares about producing a quality product anymore…They are too hungry to sell a product that looks good and take all their profits out of the quality. i just bought a toyota that I was sure that was made in Japan just to make sure I was buying a car that would be reliable. Sad I know….But people here in america are only interested in a paycheck from the corperate level to the person on the assembly line.. I was told by my engineer brother that it is easily calculated how long parts will last and what they were designed for….these machines are designed to fail so that we have to pay to fix them….i wish more people in our society would fight back!

  123. Jeff Says:

    Quote “Proper length screws might even cost less than ones that are too long (granted it would be by fractions of a penny maybe, but still). Better metal on the spider assembly, what, maybe couple of extra bucks per unit? Better bearing another few dollars? Bottom line, the thing could be infinitely better for maybe $5-$7, maybe less; that really does lead one to conclude, as so many here have, that it is designed obsolescence for profit off of the repairs.”

    If the makers sell 100,000 units, and it cost $7 per unit more to make them stronger and last longer, then they’d be out $700,000 and wouldn’t make any money on the repairs…

    A no brainer for the corporate decision makers. The manufacturer hires scores of bean counters to weigh the cost of any lawsuits against the profits made by PLANNING IN OBSOLESENCE and apparantly the lawsuits cost less than good design.

    As for the longer screws, it prolly costs less than $.01 to put in the longer screws, that will JUSTIFY charging you for the replacement drum/spider assy., instead of just a broken spider…

    That’s my $.02

  124. James Joyce Says:

    I love these recent comments…..

    “If the makers sell 100,000 units, and it cost $7 per unit more to make them stronger and last longer, then they’d be out $700,000 and wouldn’t make any money on the repairs…” “Planned Obsolescence”

    Corporate cohorts in “calculating deceptive crime” gaming the system many a time. The consumer pays and pays some more even when the “truth” is clear to all. I recall the American colonial trader’s disgust for England’s products, for which they traded. Over priced overtaxed and of shoddy construction, the cost to the American colonist and infringements on liberty impose by this mercantile-imperialistic economic relationship is alive and well today in America. The realities experienced by the posters here seem pretty similar….

  125. Steve Says:

    I would like to go one on one in a cage match with the CEO of Kenmore brands. I would like to take his 30 million dollar annual salary and his stock options and redistribute them to any owner of Kenmore front load washers that were built under his inept leadership. If he survived the cage match then he could work on anyones washing machines that needed this spider and bearing replacements for the rest of his life. This would be the punishment corporate America would understand rather than SEC fines that are meaning less.

  126. jacqueline Says:

    I am definately interested persuing this issue legally of the Kenmore front endloader problems of only working for 3-4 years. I bought mine in Oct 2005. On friday I have a Sears tech coming to figure out what the problem is..Now reading this I’m pretty sure I will be told it’s the bearings & more than likely the spider arm(s). I’m going to print this blog out and hand it to the tech and tell him that I want it attached to my invoice. I will follow up with a phone call to make sure sears has it.
    When I called I told Sears that I have heard from friends & coworkers that they had problems in only a couple or so years with their machines. So I said to Sears has there been a recall on these machines (or on parts)??? totally avoided my question. So I will make myself heard one way or another. They will be inindated with letters, calls and copies of blogs that I can find on the web.

  127. Bill Moore Says:

    Jacqueline – Excellent! Let em have it. For all those here, you may appreciate this. We went to Sears and bought a new Whirlpool Duet. Probably would have gone somewhere different, but they had the best price. At any rate, I was jabbering at the salesman about our previous experience with the Kenmore/Fridgidare. He said he had heard a few comments over the last couple of years, but had no idea how bad it was. Then he said the really interesting part. He pointed to the section of his display with all the new shiny Fridgidare front loaders and says “I haven’t sold one of those all year, maybe this is why”. Indeed.

  128. KWD Says:

    So I just took apart our frigidaire front load washer and found the broken spider arm. Inside bearing bad also. Rediclous price for replacement parts. I would join a class action against the manufacturer as production of this design should be stopped now.

  129. Steve Says:

    Well the drum and spider assy came in, I installed it and it runs excellent again, what sucks is that I know that it is a five year or so fix and it will have to be done again, this really sucks.

    I had to reinstall the door gasket and had a hell of a time doing it, the spring that holds the gasket to the outer tub shell is a brutal spring to put in place through the door opening. I started the spring on the bottom of the tub and secured it there with a padded furniture clamp t o keep the spring from working its way back out as I put it in. This made the task a cinch. If anyone runs into this situation or find they just need to replace the door gasket then let me know and I’ll post a sketch of what I found the easiest.

  130. James Joyce Says:

    “Well the drum and spider assy came in, I installed it and it runs excellent again, what sucks is that I know that it is a five year or so fix and it will have to be done again, this really sucks.”


    Did you take any preventative measures I suggested in a previous post. It would extend the life of the “designed” to fail substandard manufactured in India, spider bracket? This item should be sold as a separate part. On the positive side of things, this scam is not as bad as….”The Iraq Oil Plot,” and $5.00 stored energy, in the form of gas/diesel! Go figure……..

  131. KWD Says:

    So after reading all these posts, I called the store we bought our Frigidare from told them that I was under the impression there was a 25 year warrenty on the inner drum. The repair guy said he would get me the drum (no charge except a shipping charge $10 or so)

    I called the bearing store they had the bearings and the seal total around $40. (Just a little tap whith a hammer and punch old bearings came right out.)

    Got everthing here today, ….all’s I’s need’s to’s do’s now’s…. is get it all back together….. [:>)

    By the way our washer was purchased in July of 1998 so we almost got 10 years. It has been pretty noisey for the last year though.


  132. KWD Says:

    It’s after mid night, I spent the last tree hours putting together the washer. The initial run, no leaks no vibration so looks like a fix. I did primer the spider and paint in with rustoloeum. so hopefully it will lenghten it’s life. Thanks everone who posted here it made all the difference. Thank-you

  133. Vaunda Says:

    Next month makes 2 yrs since I bought a laundry center from Sears. 3 weeks ago the dryer lost 3 screw out of the drum. Repairs cost $133. Less than 2 weeks later the washer made a loud scretching sound and dumped the water in the floor DAMAGING FLOOR. I am informed this day that their repair people DOES NOT move the washer to repair it, that someone else will have to move it out from the wall and since I am 76 and have a husband very ill WE are unable to move it. Looks like I need to hire another person (if I can find one) to move it out and back. SO IN THE FUTURE I AM SURE TO NEVER BUY ANY THING THAT MAY NEED REPAIRS. I WAS TOLD THAT THERE WAS A FEE ALSO PLUS PARTS & LABOR. I WILL SPREAD THE WORD ON THIS.

  134. Troy Says:

    I did not find anyone talking about the Whirpool design. Mine is made by Whirlpool. After finding the washer making alot of noise and the front tub piece being ground away, I ordered (not from Sears) a replacement front tub with seal. Upon further inspection, I found the spider assembly bad on my drum. According to the Sears manual, the stainless steel drum is warranted for life. Is this so or am I going to find out from the repairman that because of the spider assembly failure, this part will not be covered? According to Sears’ website, the drum for this Whirpool make is $541 USD.

  135. Vaunda Says:

    6/12. Today the tech came out to look at my Kenmore laundry center as it made a loud noise and then dumped the water out ruining my new laminate floor. Of course this is not Sears responsibility. Cost he quoted $608.00. Had over $130. repairs done to dryer (stacked) 2 weeks ago. Will be 2yrs old next month. I feel like I have been skinned and bad. I will never buy another appliance from Sears and will spread the word to any one who will listen. I paid $953. for the set last July .He told me it was not for heavy duty jobs (just for apartments and 2 or 3 loads a week. I was not informed of this when I bought it. There are 3 in my family.

  136. Jim Says:

    Have a Frigidaire that has been relatively problem free for almost 11 years. Wow, after reading this board I am one lucky guy I suppose but now am experiencing very loud spins. I’m crossing my fingers that it’s just a bearing problem and that I can replace just the bearing. I’m not going to spend money to fix the broken spider arm if that’s what the problem is. Not worth the time or money. I wanted to remind you all who are looking for replacement models to not overlook European and Japanese brands. Specifically I would look at Tromm (I think it’s Swedish? or Belgian?) Europeans have been making front load washers long before they became in vogue here and are likely making them better. I don’t remember what brand I had when I lived in Switzerland but it was rock solid.

  137. Mike Says:

    My owners manual states that their is a “limited lifetime warranty on stainless steel wash basket.” Does anyone know if this includes the spider bracket assembly? Mine just went bad – it is a 2004 Kenmore model number 417.44102300. Is there a way to get the part under warranty or am I going to have to feed Sears the $50.00 for a service visit just to confirm what I already know to get the warranty part? Thanks

  138. James Joyce Says:

    Hey Mike,

    Had you taken the time to read the numerous posts on this site you would know the answer! Welcome to the American way; sodomy corporate style! Hope you have not paid 50.00 clams for nuting………

  139. Troy Says:


    The repairman from Sears came Monday. He was able to verify in his parts diagram that on the Whirlpool made Kenmore front loader, you can not buy the spider bracket separate of the drum. He ordered me a replacement drum under warranty (part only). Still do not have the part as he stated it would take 5-7 days. I did have to pay a service call fee, but I declined having them install the part ($300 US).

  140. Mike Says:

    Thanks Troy – thats exactly the info I was looking for – I have my service call tomorrow – hopefully with the same results – I’ll post my success or failure after the visit.

  141. Linda Says:

    Thanks for the video and the posts – they definitely saved me money and time in getting a repairman to give me the bad news. We have the same problem with model 417 front loader – bad bearing and spider support. I’m not wasting money on a temporary fix. Ours lasted 3 years. (We always used the liquid HE detergent, too.)

  142. Neil Says:

    I guess I’m the latest victim of the Kenmore, Frigidaire junk washer model 417. Purchased Oct 1st 2004 with the matching drier, 3 years 9 mos. Dryer seems okay but the washer is exactly the same as in the video, nice job by the way. The spider assembly is broke on two of the arms. The screws gouged the outer drum severely and the bottom bushing doesn’t look to good. The bearings seem to be okay.
    I’m a retired sheetmetal mechanic and I can tell you, you don’t mix, stainless steel with aluminum in water especially with detergent and bleach. If you can visualize the older top loader washers they mostly had porcelain coated steal drums and parts which would not rust unless chipped or cracked. Unprotected aluminum is highly corrosive near water. It is almost as bad as bare steel. They should never have used aluminum for that part, unless they were planning for the failure.
    I definitely feel that there should be a recall for these parts, spider arm assembly with basket, scored drum and the bearings. I also feel that if Sears doesn’t honor their product then we should pursue a class action suit. I plan on taking pictures of everything, call the attorney general, call Sears and complain some more and if anyone does get a suit give me a shout. I’ll help. I can’t find anything on my paperwork about the stainless drum have an extended warrentee.

  143. Jim Says:

    Has anyone had a problem separating the inner (metal) tub from the outer plastic tub? I was unable to get the shaft out of the rear bearing. I suppose rust fused it together.

    I ordered the parts from appliance parts pros and it came in 2 days ($100 cheaper than repairclinic).

    I’d really like to separate them sometime for curiosity’s sake. I doubt any of the spider arms were cracked because there is no evidence of gouging in the outer shell by the screws or anything else. I just think the bearing seal failed and allowed water into the bearing and ruined it (and fused the shaft to the bearing evidently).

    By the way, those screws on the fins are not even necessary. The fins have tabs that slide in and forward. They are locked into place by bending a tab in the drum. I was a little worried about how they’d hold but after 20 loads of laundry I’m convinced they’re unnecessary.

    I have no idea why my spider arms would be fine for 10.5 years and others would have such a problem breaking. I’ve never used the HE detergent (what a ripoff). We’ve always just used regular powdered Tide. We have always had a water softener… maybe soft water makes a difference with the corrosion? I also noticed on the replacement spider/drum that it’s aluminum and Fe (Iron). I don’t know if that makes it even worse or maybe they’ve redesigned it a bit by using an iron and aluminum mix?

    Does anyone know if the next generation Frigidaires/Kenmores have similar problems? They are the ones with the bigger tub (3.5cuft) and a bigger door. I haven’t been able to find anything about similar problems with them as with the 3.1s. If that’s the case and there are fewer problems I suppose we can give Frigidaire a little credit for perfecting the design. (Would be fun to open up one of those next gen 3.5s and see what the setup on it is). And I guess there’s even a generation beyond that with the “Affinity” series.

    Anyway, a $360 repair… about half the price of a new washer. And if I get ten more years outta that… then I think it’ll be worth it. The drain pump is now louder than the spin. (I even went to check a few times cause I thought the load was unbalanced… unable to hear the spin sound. But there it was… spinning away). My next project will be installing some rubberized carpet padding as insulation in the cabinet. Luckily that can be done by just removing the top, the back and the front panel. I already have the feet on rubber “isolators” which really help the washer stay in place on the tile floor and really dampen the shaking during spins.

  144. Herb Says:

    Sigh. Yanked mine apart today, after finding increased noise and oil or grease ruining a whole bunch of clothes. I’m apparently lucky, since the spider seems to be in great shape. It’s a 7/02 model (417.42142100), so after six years, no real sign of corrosion. I’m taking various bits of advice here and upgrading the seal and bearings, plus I’ll paint the spider after cleaning. I’m not paying Sears a dime, if I can help it. Which brings me to my next question – should I replace the seal between the two halves of the tub, or can I reuse what’s there (augment with silicon?)

  145. Jim Says:

    I’d recommend replacing the seal… they’re not that expensive. I ordered replacement seals and bearings from repairclinic.com but they DO NOT FIT. I didn’t realize but it says plainly they’re only for washers made prior to 1992 (did Frigidaire even MAKE frontloaders before 1992?) Why not get a new seal AND use silicon as well? I would be very reluctant to paint the spider. You realize it gets wet every load many times… bleach… detergent… and I don’t imagine rustoleum is going to stand up to that… I imagine it will start flaking off and get into your clothes. Unless you can take it to a professional appliance painting or auto body shop, I would shy away from that. I wonder if it could be coated in plastic or porcelain somehow?

  146. Herb Says:

    Jim -

    Thanks much. Will order the new seal, < $20, agree on the silicon. Last thing I want is for this thing to leak after I’m all done!

    Probably right on the paint. I’m trying to research an epoxy coating that would bond to the cast aluminum. Powder coating would be ideal, but I’m not sure I know anyone around who even does that, or if would be cost-effective.

  147. Steve Says:

    Had the same problem with my GE front loader washer. Wpxh21a0ww I replaced the tub and spider assembly, now the bearings are going. Didn’t know that they both needed to be replaced until now. It does take quite awhile to do the repair. I have been unable to find the whole assembly, inner and outer tub with bearings, anyone have any insight..I read here about sears stocking one, but I called them and they have no record of the part number listed, (26970134453200)it has too many numbers. My other GE washer lasted over 25 years with only 2 repairs until the tub rutsed out. What ever happened to quality with GE? Any help would be appreciated.

  148. Chris From Ajax Says:

    I inquired through the Sears Canada parts website the part # mentioned in one of the posts above for the entire tub assembly…here is the response:
    Website for the inquiry: http://www5.sears.ca/hips.nsf/eparts
    ITEM : 26 970134453200
    SELL PRICE : 152.99 EXP. DATE : 06/27/08

    The trip charge is roughly around 80.00$ + part + labour .. we do not have a houtly rate… Charges are confirmed by our technicians

    If you wish to order by internet, you must resubmit your Part Inquiry/Request with the information in all the fields stating part # above in appropriate field. Do not forget to give your complete address with #, street name, city, phone #. Also in Additional Comments you must indicate your credit card # with exp. date. Delivery charges of $ 6.00 and Taxes are applicable on all orders..

    To order you may also call 1-800-4-MY-HOME
    Thank you & Have a nice day !
    So apparently it does exist…I have ordered mine tonight and will update with a posting when I receive it. Obviously I plan to install it myself thanks to all of the great information available through the people that have posted here…fingers are crossed.

  149. Neil Says:

    Update: I complained to the sears store where I bought my washer from and told them about the implied warranty law and they decided to send out a repair man today at no cost to me. I had the Washer all apart on my basement floor. The service guy said he would order me a new spider assembly with basket and new gasket. Should have it by this Friday. He said it had a lifetime warranty on the spider assembly and basket. Bearing did not. Hopefully it will last another 3 to 4 years and then I’ll get an LG. As the repair guy said he hasn’t seen any of those in for repair yet, and he’d been working for Sears for 35 years.

  150. Chris From Ajax Says:

    Neal: are you in Canada or US? Which store did you buy from?

    I have only diagnosed that it is my spider arm assembly that has broken and haven’t dismantled it yet – waiting for the new one before I do that. After I replace it, and if it is the spider arm, I will be following up directly with Sears Canada to reimburse for the replacement, plus something for the hassle. My manual indicates a 25 year warranty on the stainless steel drum…and only two year warranty coverage on the labour. Not sure if the Presidents Line is still around, but must be some customer service contact to escalate to…

  151. Neil Says:

    Chris, I’m in US, Maine, Brunswick was the store. The repair guy told me he has replaced many of these. There should be a recall on them from the manufacturer, but there’s not enough people out there yet to make a stink about it. The bad thing about it is that the new one they are sending has the same aluminum spider assembly which will corrode and break again in another 3 to 4 years.

  152. James Joyce Says:


    “There should be a recall on them from the manufacturer, but there’s not enough people out there yet to make a stink about it.”

    Sears has received thousands of complaints on this scam. They do not care! It is the cost of doing business. It is ironic that Maytag has voluntarily recalled it’s front load washers due to the potential of fire from a compromised outer tub that leaks. The breach of the watertight outer plastic shell allows water to inundate the electrical components below the inner/outer tub assembly. The breach of the outer tub is the result of inner tub baffle screws scoring and shredding the inside of the plastic tub. This is all caused by the defective spider bracket! This is as much a scam as the Iraq Oil Plot folks……. sodomy of America by corporate scum/crooks!!!!

  153. John from Hamilton Says:

    My front loader “Kenmore” (Actually Frigidaire) washing machine started to the thumping routine during the last few days. After spending some time this afternoon researching it, I find out that thanks to the fellow on Youtube that it is a MATERIALS engineering defect.
    Ron’s comments are only apologistic “Bu11sh1t” from someone who benefits from this defect. Using HE detergent is only “recommended” in my users manual. If the chance of damage was so great, it should have been stipulated as a necessity. Frankly, I think it’s the chlorine bleach that accelerated the corrosion on the spider arm.

    Now to the Engineers: The engineers who designed this should have known better and if they did and were over-ruled, …. well, we know why. Frankly this type of defect warrants a class action lawsuit. As an engineer in the appliance industry, I know that cost issues are important, but obviously it is in the corporate best interest to keep it going – the machines generally make it out of warranty. Since I paid over $1000 for my machine, I figured it would have lasted longer – 10-15 years would have been acceptable. Since mine is only 5 1/2 years, and it seems that 5 years is fairly typical, I’d say that this life expectancy is pathetic.

  154. Tonya Says:

    Six years of ownership must be the lucky number! It wasn’t bad enough that the spin-tub broke apart but it just so happen to do so during the spin cycle and it sent my washer through my wall! WOW! Do I feel lucky? More like an idiot! I had asked the repair man while he was out the last time we had had a problem with the machine why it was making that awful knock noise every time the spin cycle ran. He told me he didn’t know but be sure to call back if there were any other problems. Well, on the average, we had the repair man out twice a year and yes, like fools, we extended that warranty. However, so many of the repairs that needed to be done, for one reason to the other, parts or labor just never seemed to be part of that deal. So, we didn’t renew that less than three months ago and now, I will be shopping for a new washer and repairing a huge whole in my laundry room wall. The sales man bragged about all the money we would be saving with this machine! I wish there was some way to hold Sears responsible for all the trouble this machine has been as well as all of the extra money we have had to spend just to do what they claimed this machine could and would do for 20 years or more!

  155. James Joyce Says:

    “The sales man bragged about all the money we would be saving with this machine!” This is a con game. Sears and Frigidaire are “corporate scum” ripping people off left and right. Your situation is made worse by the bold faced omission of fact the repair tech was well aware of. He was planning on getting a second bite from your apple.

    This is garbage, trash, rape, and exploitation of the consumer on a massive scale.

  156. Neil Says:

    New Update: Yesterday I called Sears parts or customer service because I hadn’t received the basket and gasket which the service man ordered for me on Tuesday. He told me I would receive them by last Thursday or Friday at the latest. I didn’t receive them and called yesterday and played phone tag for about an hour and found out the order was pending. I don’t understand pending anyways they haven’t sent them yet and the gasket was on back ordered from the manufacturer. (Figidaire, Electolux I guess) The phone person said it could be! a week to 10 days maybe more as they don’t no how long the back order will be. He did say that the national parts resource center will give me a call within 24 hours to let me know how long it will be. Yeh Right. I feel like taking all their crap parts, washer and dumping in right in the main entrance to the Sears store where I bought the dam thing.

  157. Jim Says:

    sorry nil…. that truly sucks. It seems to me that more of you had have problems with Sears than with Frigidaire. (maybe sears customer service just makes people more pissed off I dunno). I’m unwilling to call this machine a lemon… that’s another reason why it’d be fun to open up a next gen frigidaire (3.5) and see any design modifications. As much as I feel for you James Joyce, I’m not sure what your rantings about a horrifying crime of sodomy has to do with a washer. It seems way over the top, even for hyperbole… and is repeated over and over and over again and I’m not sure that it ads anything to the discussion. Everyone should remove their fins screws toute de suite (immediately) to prevent them from gouging the outer tub… since they aren’t even needed. I’ve been pleased with the performance of my Frigidaire 3.1 since the replacement… I even shoved a bit of foam insulation around the drain pump and it’s nearly a silent machine.

  158. don't give up! Says:

    I own a 3 year old Kenmore HE2 Model #110.4646. Began to not drain and made a great amount of noise during rinse/drain/spin cycle. Panel began flashing. Long story short, after spending the better part of a day reading all of the informative posts, I decided to take the front lower panel off to get a better look. Wasn’t easy. Right in front of me was a drain filter by the pump. Unscrewed it and tons of coins,bobby pins, hair, etc. were PACKED in the filter. Cleaned it out, screwed it back in and the machine is quiet and draining very well. Hopefully I didn’t ruin the water pump. I don’t understand why this filter is not more accessible or cleaning recommended by SEARS. Hope this help someone out there! Just so you know, I did all of this to avoid call Sears because of past horrible experiences. Will not shop there again!

  159. J Rolfe Says:

    I have a GSTF1670ASO Fridgidaire model. We have had the unit for only a few years and the spider arm 3 spokes broke cleanly and in approx the same spot on each. Our did not look half as damaged/corroded as the unit in the video. Ours too has the protruding screws which dmamaged the plastic tub. My question is have you all filed complaints with the BBB and FTC? If you have not please do so. Has anyone received any response or compensation for the obviously defect equipment, damage etc. Sounds like a fairly common problem. Class action?

  160. Jim Says:

    Take those damn screws out now anyone of you who hasn’t yet!

  161. Jim Says:

    but remember the screws only become a problem in the spider arms break

  162. John from Hamilton Says:

    Further to my earlier post I took my unit apart and found, ‘lo and behold’ a broken spoke. It broke at the beginning of the embossment which is no surprise since this is the maximum stress point, and a stress concentration point due to the corners in the embossment. In addition, the screws had scratched the inside of the outer tub, but not as badly as in the video. The real damage to the outer tub occurred on the front half of the outer tub where the front edge of the stainless steel drum rubbed THROUGH the front wall. I called sears and ordered the drum replacement kit – before I noticed the front wall damage. When I called to find out what was in the replacement kit, the sales person didn’t know and couldn’t find out because it wasn’t listed on the computer. YIKES! Isn’t this the information age? Anyway, I sit here waiting for the replacement kit, knowing that my job is not done yet. The washer is in pieces in my basement and we are now using disposable diapers ….

  163. Jim Says:

    Let’s all stop thinkin of these machines as “sodomy.” The’ve actually got some good engineering (I’m an auto engineer and can send my hands off to them) Dunno why mine did’t break and take out ur screws now to prevent more. Since the replacement I’ve been prob free/ 10 more years I hope

  164. Chris from Ajax Says:

    Received the Tub Kit from Sears on Wednesday afternoon…grand total with taxes and shipping was $179.66…full outer tub, stainless tub, fly wheel.

    Took about 5 hours to reinstall – 2 hours to remove the original, 3 hours to install the new one – took a bit of fiddling to find the best way to do it and took my time to ensure that I didn’t break any of the parts (alot of plastic) or cut anything (hoses, boot).

    A couple of spots were definitely two person situations – ie. removing the shock absorber pins.

    On reinstalling the boot, much easier to remove it from the door and install the tub side before attaching the weights and setting the tub back in place.

    All told, if you have any mechanical inclination, you can do this job yourself…just take your time.

    Now let the fight begin with Snears…

  165. jamvf Says:

    “I’m unwilling to call this machine a lemon… that’s another reason why it’d be fun to open up a next gen frigidaire (3.5) and see any design modifications. As much as I feel for you James Joyce, I’m not sure what your rantings about a horrifying crime of sodomy has to do with a washer?”

    I quoted a line in your post with correction; proper punctuation, a question mark. (?) There have been no modifications on the next gen 3.5. Same defective design. Thanks, your sympathy not required!! I do not think the machine is a lemon either. It was designed with intended failure of major components, for repair, for profit! Not that anything is wrong with profit! Otherwise it is a “good” machine

    Concerning your politically correct characterization of my comments as a “rant?” [edited by admin] These corporations have sold thousands of these products and made considerable “profit,” in the process. Today is the 4th of July!!! You just don’t get it do you? Corporate cohorts in colonial times…. raped the colonist many a time. I guess you accept that we have become, that which we severed our ties from?

    The issues on this site are indicative and just small examples of what America’s founders dealt with many moons ago!!! Sodomy by design!!

  166. John from Hamilton Says:

    Chris from Ajax – thanks for the information on the tub kit. I was afraid it was just the back half. Still waiting for it to arrive from Sears. My cost was 179.66 incl. taxes and shipping. I can’t wait to get it back in place – the cost of disposable diapers is killing me! :-)

  167. Steve Says:

    Found a lot of great information on this website, thank you. Found the whole tub kit from Sears in Canada is $152.99, in the USA it’s $411.99 for the same kit, same part number. Is there anyway around this? Talked tp Sears Canada. they said they would not ship to the US, I have to order through Sears USA. I can get the frigidaire model machine (they make it for Sears) new for $499.00. I would rather save the landfill and order the kit from Canada, any suggestions?

  168. Chris from Ajax Says:

    Steve…how close to the border are you? Sears Canada sent my part to a local catalogue pick-up location, not to my home…you could have it ordered to a pick-up location and scoot over and pick it up for the price of the gas (plus whatever hassle US immigration gives you – make sure you have a passport).

    One other comment on re-installing the boot…use a little bit of dish soap inside the groove to help it slide over the rim.

  169. John from Hamilton Says:

    Received the entire tub assembly this morning. Fantastic. I was afraid after seeing the US prices for this unit, that I would only be getting the back half of the outer shell! LoL!

    Monday I’ll be putting this baby back together. I may be checking back for help on the re-assembly.


  170. Jeff Says:

    I think Ken needs his medication now…

    James Joyce, I understand your grief, but lets keep it civil. There may be kids reading.

    Herb Says:
    June 23rd, 2008 at 1:15 am
    Jim -
    “Powder coating would be ideal, but I’m not sure I know anyone around who even does that, or if would be cost-effective.”

    You can get a home powdercoater from some of these. Just supply that old Kenmore oven };^)


  171. Jeff Says:

    WTF? Looks like spam to me…

  172. appliancejournal Says:

    Ken’s comment has been deleted. Please keep the comments rated PG. Thank you.

  173. James Joyce Says:

    Civility is much overrated… especially when you are the the one being screwed. Second any “kid” who might read these posts would come away with a clearer understanding of the realities, than most allegedly… mature adults. If one is concerned for the well being of children, recall these washers!!!

    No more pain nor grief here! I got out of this “fiasco” for less than 200 hundred bucks while thousands of customers have been, in some cases ripped off for several hundred dollars… These people are the victims, not me! I’m the dumbbie?????

    Seems other corporations are more responsible than some. Just wondering if the breach of the water tight outer tub due to failed spider bracket/shaft and/or bearings poses the same or similar threat to life and property which caused Maytag/Samsung to recall their front load washer(s).

    “Water leakage onto the electrical connections to the washing machine’s thermal sensor could cause an electrical short and ignite a circuit board, posing a fire hazard to consumers.”

    Motor sits at bottom of tub, circuit board sits below outer tub, water pump sits below tub assembly? Do Frigidaire models have a similar thermal sensor???


    NEWS from CPSC
    U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
    Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207
    March 21, 2007
    Release #07-135

    Maytag Recall Hotline: (800) 868-5109
    Samsung Recall Hotline: (800) 515-7902
    CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
    CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

    Maytag® and Samsung™ Brand Front Loading Washing Machines Recalled Due to Fire Hazard
    WASHINGTON, D.C. – The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firms named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer products. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

    Name of product: Maytag and Samsung Brand Front Loading Washing Machines

    Units: About 250,000 Maytag-brand units and about 20,000 Samsung-brand units

    Distributor: Maytag Corp., of Newton, Iowa, and Samsung Electronics America Inc., of Ridgefield Park, N.J.

    Manufacturer: Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd., of South Korea

    Hazard: Water leakage onto the electrical connections to the washing machine’s thermal sensor could cause an electrical short and ignite a circuit board, posing a fire hazard to consumers.

    Incidents/Injuries: Maytag has received five reports of incidents involving ignition in the circuit board. Samsung has received one report of an incident involving ignition in the circuit board. No injuries, fires or property damage outside the washing machine have been reported.

    Description and Models: The recall involves certain Maytag and Samsung brand front-load washers. The Maytag washers have model numbers beginning with MAH9700 or MAH8700. The Samsung model number WF306BHW or a model number beginning with WF316. Not all serial numbers are subject to the recall. The model and serial numbers are located on a tag at the bottom of the door opening. Maytag models with a serial number ending in the last two letters identified below are subject to the recall:
    2006 JA JC JE JG JJ JL JN

    Sample Maytag Serial Number: 10123456GN

    Samsung models with the six-digit number 100001 through 799999 prior to a letter at the end of the serial number are subject to the recall:

    Sample Samsung Serial Number: 230854AL300026B

    Sold at: Major department and appliance stores nationwide from April 2005 through August 2006 for between $1,000 and $1,200.

    Manufactured in: South Korea

    Remedy: Consumers should immediately contact the firm for information on how to receive a free repair. Consumers should not return the washing machine to the retailer where it was purchased.

    Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can call Maytag toll-free at (800) 868-5109 between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or go to Maytag’s Web site at http://www.washerrecall.com – Samsung customers can call (800) 515-7902 between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or go to Samsung’s Web site at http://www.Samsung.com/washerrecall

    Maytag Media Contact: Monica Teague, (269) 923-7405 or monica.teague@Whirlpool.com
    Samsung Media Contact: Deborah Szajngarten at (201) 229-4090 or dszajngarten@sea.samsung.com
    Picture of Recalled Maytag Washing Machine Picture of Recalled Samsung Washing Machine

    To Life, not crooks in corporate crime!!!

    James Joyce

  174. Jim Says:

    If anyone’s comment needs to be removed it’s jamvf… the one who truly needs medication. “I’m not sure what your rantings about a horrifying crime of sodomy has to do with a washer” is correctly punctuated with a period. It is a statement and not an inquiry. I am not a defender for Frigidaire/Electrolux/Sears or for their products and I sympathize with everyone who has had problems. Hyperbolic rants and characterizations of a design flaw/faulty product/corporate customer noservice as sexual crimes (sodomy/rape) are truly odd and add nothing productive to this discussion.

  175. James Joyce Says:


    How about issues? I don’t see you addressing why Maytag, on its own initiative, recalled its defective product while others manufacturers with similar issues have not?????? Should you suffer the consequences of a defective products, i.e. water damage to your property or worse fire and or “electrocution” of a loved one, you might feel different, maybe even raped. Yes symbolism/words express disgust for this rip-off scam. Can’t handle words so you attack me!! No ‘drugs” required here here Jim. However I think you might be in need a of: “a dose of reality!” Better yet, how about a “cold one” and the death of a few million brain cells???

  176. Andres Says:

    I agree with James on the whole corporate scam thing. I too just gave Sears $75 for them to tell me that my Kenmore/Frigidaire washer needs $600 worth of repairs – same as posts before. My question is – LG seems to the be brand most posters agree on?? Or are there others?

  177. John from Hamilton Says:

    Finally re-assembled the machine yesterday. It took less time to put together than to take apart – thanks in part to my wife who hooked on the springs while I help up the drum assembly and to the fact that the drum came fully assembled. Just a word to the wise for those other DIY types… make sure that the front rubber seal is properly aligned – so that the arrows match. Mine is off by ~ 1/8″ and it shows…

    Thanks everyone for your input. Hoping this baby lasts another 5 years at least!

  178. Mark Says:

    I have the HE4t washer with a broken aluminum spider arm, however my machine has the model number that starts with 110, so I guess it is made by Whirlpool. Will the spider arm for a Frigidaire (part number 131618500) fit both the 110 Whirlpool and the 417 Frigidaire machines? When I look at the Frigidaire part (http://www2.shopping.com/-frigidaire+131618500) the basket is somewhat different than mine. There is no hole in the basket of my machine and the basket appears shorter. I can reuse my old basket if the arm is the same.

  179. James Joyce Says:

    Thanks for agreeing with me, but also for expressing your agreement in a post that says: “I agree with James on the whole corporate scam thing. I too just gave Sears $75 for them to tell me that my Kenmore/Frigidaire washer needs $600 worth of repairs – same as posts before.” No scam here Jim!!!

    Maybe the Fed can bailout Sears if they are sued and lose? BTW, nice to see the new generation of front load washers: “have the same problem!” Jim, what a great deal for the duped consumer?
    + 75.00
    + 600.00

    $1,875.00 + tax “Because of a defective design, by design?”
    Corporate Slime conducting corporate crime!

  180. Andres Says:

    The Sears repair guy even said that it was simply a bad design. I’m not sure if Frigidaire fixed this in their new version – but Sears seems to still be selling the same washer both under the Kenmore as well as the Frigidaire name. The sales guy at Sears after asking all the standard lame questions that imply my fault – “did you use liquid HE detergent?” etc.” – he said – “well.. you should avoid that machine for the next purchase.” Without skipping a beat he offered to take 10% off either an LG or Samsung – “today only.” He had no explanation for the discount offer “today only.” I figured it out when the very next day Sears began offering 15% off all washers. This should not be news to Americans that Corporations are incapable of shame by design. I’m glad I didn’t buy from Sears again. James is correct in his scathing indictment of the corporate scam and the lack of government help in holding them accountable for their crimes. I ended up buying an LG from Best Buy who offered a better deal anyway.

  181. Andres Says:

    Oh by the way the bum Sears front load washer I am referring to is the Kenmore 417.4314220 manufactured by Frigidaire (for Google sake)… I’m done with Kenmore.

  182. James Joyce Says:

    A post concerning the recall of Maytag front load washer was removed from this site. I wonder why????



    “Apparently, they have the nasty habit of leaking water onto the electrical connections inside, potentially causing a short and a fire as a result. While there’s been reports of five such incidents so far, none have resulted in injuries or damages beyond the washing machine itself. Those stuck with one of the washers are advised to contact Maytag or Samsung for information on getting a free repair.”

    Check out the links and ask yourself some simple logical questions

  183. Rick Says:

    Looks like we’re the lastest victim. Our 2 1/2 year old HE3 front loader is making a loud clanking noise during the spin cycle so we had sears repair come and take a look. $990 quote to replace the tub/basket/bearing assembly since the bearing apparently cannot be replaced by itself. What a complete joke. As if i’m going to invest this much $ into a machine that cost the same amount 2 years ago.

  184. Chris from Ajax Says:

    Well, I have taken my shot at Sears Customer Service and they will not accept any responsbility for the design flaw. The pointed out that because I made the repair, and that the machine is approx. 7 years old, that there is no longer any warranty. I had asked for reimbursement of the cost of the parts ($180) and for a $100 in gift certificates for the inconvenience and for the money spent at the laundromat while I was waiting for the part.

    I am drafting a letter that I will be forwarding to the local media (there are several consumer advocate guys on the local Toronto news), as well as to the Canadian Government Office of Consumer Affairs, the BBB, Consumer Reports, and any other consumer rights groups that I can find. In my mind, we should be reimbursed where we have already had the machine fixed, and if you have a machine that hasn’t failed, it should be the subject of a recall.

    I urge everyone that has faced this issue, to do something similar…

  185. Andres Says:

    Rick…Isn’t that HE3 made by Whirlpool? I thought the design flaw was only on the front load washer made by Frigidaire. Interesting. Again…no more Kenmore for me. The $60 coupon the Sears repair people give you to buy a new washer at Sears didn’t make up for the $900 – $1000 loss??? “Suck it up” – as some on this thread might advise – “the capitalist market will correct itself”….at your expense I would add…*sigh* oh well…
    Chris – hopefully the Canadian government is more likely to hold corporations like Sears accountable. The US government (where I live) is too busy rollin’ in bed with ‘em to hold them accountable!!

  186. Jim Says:

    Kenmore makes none of their products. To avoid Kenmore, you’d have to avoid Frigidaire, Electrolux, Whirlpool, Maytag (who is now owned by Whirlpool) and who knows whom else Kenmore will make agreements with to produce future products. Doesn’t LG make Kenmore’s high end steam washers?

    I think it’s very unfortunate that people like Mr. Joyce make this a hostile place. But civility long ago disappeared on this forumn. I’m just glad I got the help I needed in fixing my washer before it became ugly enough to never visit here again.

  187. Andres Says:

    yeah Jim – they gotta make a killing…uh…I mean profit somehow! It’s the American way! Go Korea! (where LG comes from)…

  188. Ginger Says:

    Hi, unfortunately i have been raped just like all you other people who own the front loading washing machines! I have a kenmore or Whirlpool–(not for sure and i don’t car anymore) He3 & all i can tell you is is is a piece of junk. I started a load of clothes as ususal ( and i only use liquid detergent ) and on the final spin this god awful knocking noise started and it was so loud i could not believe it. I knew then something bad was wrong, any way i paid the $69.00 for Sears to come out and tell me it was going to cost $1,200.00 to repair! I bought an exteneded warranty about 3yrs ago & decided not to do another one. Any way the warranty expired so now i am out some major dollars. I think my machine is somewhere between 5-6 yrs old way too young for problems. I think the repair man said it was the shaft inside the drum. After reading about all you people who have had the same problems i was absolutely horrified
    but i am glad i did see the video. Is there anything that can be done about this problem? I know one thing i would like to take this machine and drop if off in their sales dept & let everyone who buys from Sears take a look at the products they sell. My husband is not a repair man so it looks like i will be hauling it to the dump. I am going to check out the Lg’s and see what they have to offer. Ginger

  189. MeHere Says:

    I have been reading these blogs RE: poor design of front loaders, spider arm breakage for over two months. Great site BTW. I would like to know how many of you have filed a complaint with the BB or the FTC? I have heard all the terms used here for corporate ripoffs etc, but if you do not use the tools available to you by the various organizations, then it is your own fault for not seeign some sort of compensation. There are ways to stop this but YOU must take that first step. So if you have been wronged, please file with the BB AND FTC. This can all be done online. The more that file, the more likely this may come to an end in the future.

    I am not sure what percentage of these machines have this failure mode. Talking to some folks that know the gory details of metal in water – it would be nearly all. IMHO this is a latent defect designed in to the product for what ever reason. I work for a large company and sometimes the right hand does not know what the left is doing. I am sure the company that OEMs this drum assembly is embarrassed. Maybe not. Maybe the key people do not even know about it. Inform them.

    A few emthods come to mind to inform these people, if you push the company they may make a deal with you. If not the FTC will monitor this and investigate. Also if enough get together a class action can be brought – yes I know long and drawn out – but there are a ton of hungry lawyers out there. I doubt just emails and phone calls to the company will elevate your issue much past a second level supervisor. You want to get real action, go on the blogs for the finacials and/or write the CEO/COO directly. Buy stock in the company and show up at the yearly meeting. The key is just a little extra pressure with the correct destination address… I once called and wrote Lee Iacoca(sp?) about parts that were in tight supply. My car had been sidelined for 4 weeks due to lack of part. After I called and wrote (well before wide availbility of email), my parts mysteriously showed up 3 days later.

    I too had one of these defective machines. I can not disclose the nature of the out come, but I am satisfied. From what I have heard new models have now resolved this. This could be a load of bull also. I would probably not buy one for a while even with the new design or talk to a mechanic who might know some inside scoop.

    Again please do your part and see what happens. These companies are not cold to having thier brand bashed/tarnished. It does catch up and remember the old phrase the squeaky wheel gets the grease. How much rust can you toss on the axle?

    Best of luck,

  190. Chris from Ajax Says:

    Well put MeHere…it’s not enough to restrict your complaints to this forum…

    I have submitted my experience to the BBB, as well as to a local Television station with a nightly consumer advocate report, and two major papers (Toronto Sun and Star). Have copied Sears on all submissions to ensure that they understand that I will not accept their arrogance and their lack of ownership/responsibility on this issue. Needless to say, I will also be speaking with my wallet and will not shop there until this is resolved. And of course, I will also share this story at every opportunity.

    Here is the North American BBB website – you can link to either the US or Canadian chapters from there.


    In Canada, you can also report issues through the CSA website (and also search for product recalls)…below is the link to the report submission page:


  191. Ron Says:


    If you still check this site we should talk. I am in Bath, ME and purchased a front loader from the Brunswick store and would like to know how things turned out for you. Mine is apart in my garage with a broken spider of all things.

  192. Herb Says:

    Should have posted more recently, but it’s been back together with new bearings and seals – not from Sears, and very quiet. Instructions on disassembling and reassembling (from somewhere on the web…) were pretty helpful. If you’ve been lucky like me and still have a spider in decent shape, I recommend taking it to a machine shop and having them press out the bearings & press in some decent ones – Timkin or SK, something that’s not junk.

    I never did any sort of coating on the spider – I simply scrubbed everything down thoroughly and reassembled. For what it’s worth, apparently moderately alkaline water is more likely to cause rapid corrosion of the cast aluminum than if the water is slightly acidic. Based on old chemistry knowledge, but suspect it to be accurate, if only because my own water runs very slightly acidic, and I had no visible corrosion on a 7 year old machine.

    Anybody looking for pointers on DIY repair feel free to respond – I can help a little while it’s still fresh in my mind. Hoping to get more than 7 years out of this repair.

  193. Neil Says:

    Ron, Just so happened I was watching my e-mail. I called Sears and told them about the implied warranty law that Maine has on the books, they sent a service guy out at no charge to me, and a few days ago I sent in a complaint to the attorney general because I’m still not happy. There is a form you can fill out and mail it to them. It has to be within 4 years. My washer went out 3 years 9 mos. The store did send a service guy out and he ordered the basket and spider assembly but the scored drum worries me. I got the basket assembly a couple of weeks ago and put it back together myself and it works okay but I think it leaks a little. They payed for the basket,gasket and original service call. $280.00. The spider arm is the same as what I took out so it most likely won’t last more than another 3 1/2 years.
    You need to call the Sears at Brunswick get a manager tell them they better do something as that your not the first. Refer to Maine law. Next contact attorney generals office take pictures make 3 copies, send Sears corporate, Electolux, and attorney general. http://www.maine.gov/tools/whatsnew/attach.php?id=27922&an=1
    let me know how you make out. We need to stick together.

  194. Herb Says:

    Ron & Neil
    I’m also in Maine – nearer Bangor. Can you elaborate on the 4 year thing? I’m kind of curious if I can get either a) something back from the repairs I had to do, or b) some sort of additional guarantee against the spider letting go Real Soon Now..


  195. Herb Says:

    Ah. Implied Warranty:

    I’m 7 years out from new. Dang. Never mind.


  196. Neil Says:

    If enough people show evidence and complain maybe it will result in a class action suit. As the gentleman said the sqeeky wheel.
    Herb, you need to read the implied warranty law i posted earlier. Its in PDF format. Ron, You still may have a case.

  197. Neil Says:

    FYI, There is supposed to be a lifetime warranty on the spider arm and basket. At least that is what the service man told me. That’s why i got mine.

  198. TJ Says:

    Glad I found this forum, especially the instructions to disassemble my 6 year old GE front load washer because I, too, have a very loud spin cycle.

    Here’s where I stand, and I need some feedback on what is problem and what to do:

    Inner tub and spider assembly look great, no breakage and very little, if any, corrosion (I’m lucky I guess) but I still have some ‘extended screw’ scraping on rear shell??? I thought I read on this forum that the scraping is due to a broken spider??? Could it be something else?

    My rear outer shell, inside and out, is a mess due to oily substance all over the place (seems to be eminating from the bearing area). Does this mean I need to replace the rear shell with bearing or just the bearing???


  199. Herb Says:

    TJ -

    Congrats on being lucky. If the bearings were really worn, it _could_ cause the scoring. Clean the spider up really well and make sure it’s ok before proceeding….

    My suggestions:
    1) Take plenty of pictures now.
    2) Take the rear tub assy. to a local machine shop, have them press out the bearings and seals and order new (decent grade) ones.
    3) Take the tub back with you so you can scrub both halves out. Mine too was covered in oil. Take this downtime to remove the concrete weights from the front half of the tub, carefully remove the rubber boot from the front panel, and clean the spider really well.
    4) When the new bearings are in, bring the tub back to the machine shop and have them install.
    5) Reassemble the tub. I put a _thin_ layer of silicon caulking between the two tub halves when I did it (in addition to the white seal that’s already there), just to be on the safe side.
    6) Slap it back together. Two needle-nose pliers work well to put the clip back on the rubber boot over the fill spout. That was probably the hardest part of reassembly.

    Good luck,

  200. Herb Says:

    Oh, and trim the ends off the screws. A hacksaw will do, or a grinder. Anything to make them not stick out about 3/8 of an inch….

    I knew I’d forget something…


  201. TJ Says:

    Thanks Herb.

    Why the pictures?
    Do I remove the spider and clean or clean as attached (and what do I use to clean with?
    Is it wise to remove the current white shell seal and clean it? Or leave in its current place/space?


  202. Herb Says:

    Pictures – insurance in case you need references for reassembly, or to compare against for next time, assuming there is one. I dunno, I take pictures pretty obsessively, one of the benefits of digital cameras, I guess.

    I left the white seal in place, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, and then applied a thin layer of silicon caulking.

    You can clean the spider while attached to the drum, but it’s a whole lot easier to unbolt it and then clean up. I used a scotchbrite scrubby thing an a hose, for what it’s worth. There’s a bunch of crevices on the underside that are annoying to clean up. Any sort of degreaser works – I had some concentrated citrus-based stuff that I used on everything to make sure the grease/oil was gone.

    I also used locktite thread locker on the bolts that hold the spider to the drum during reassembly – bad mental visions of one or more of those bolts working their way loose during a spin cycle made me do it…probably overkill, but who knows. It looked like there was some one there when they came out.

  203. TJ Says:

    Thanks again.

    I tried to get spider off after taking off the 6 bolts, its not coming off. So be it after a power wash and brillo scrub.


    PS. My son counted 18 new cuts from this exercise.

    PSS. The stainless steel tub can be used as a super cheese grater if all else fails.

  204. Herb Says:

    Spider removal from drum : the bolts have – if you look closely – a tapered, or wedge shape under the head, kinda like what a wheel nut looks like. Short version is that the drum has a matching bevel, and so does the spider, so the bevels on the drum still stick into the spider slightly. It’ll pry out with a little care. Took me a minute to convince myself as well, but it’ll be fine. Might need a couple blocks of wood and a small pry bar.

    +1 on the cheese grater. I wrapped my drum in a large (old) blanket for all of this process. Saved on the cuts a bit.


  205. Ron Says:

    Neil, I’m not on the computer daily so I just got your reply, thanks. I went to Sears (Brunswick) on Tuesday and they sent a repair man out today (Thursday) at no charge like they did for you. He ordered a new spin basket and rear tub with bearings at no charge. They may be starting to replace that rear tub if you push them due to the damage the shaft can do to the bearings when the spider breaks. I’ll do the attorny general stuff this weekend when I have more time. FYI my washer is 4 years 3 months old, what junk. I too will be looking for a new washer in 3 1/2 years and guess where I won’t go although I may continue to get the spider and basket replaced every 4 years or so just to bug them.

    The parts should be here in 7-10 days, how long will I really have to wait, my wife is curious.

  206. Neil Says:

    To Ron and All,
    I’m waiting to here from Sears and or Electolux as I received a notice back from the attorney generals office to let them know what the outcome is. I sent out 3 letters with PICTURES to them. I’ve only heard back from the ATG office. I haven’t gotten my tub replaced, only the basket and gasket. I’m hoping to get the tub too as it was scored up so bad I think it may be leaking. Not knowing anything about the bearings. By the way it took about a week for the basket and 2 weeks for the gasket.

  207. Owen Says:

    Front load washers are a bad value. A premium price with a pitch for it to be recovered by supply and utility savings that is seldom realized. My advice is to shop the near low end of the top load models. While lacking digital displays and candy colored paint jobs your clothes will be just as clean and you wallet less flat. I know this is no answer to the question but hopefully some shoppers will land here and I might save them some money and headache.

  208. Wanda M Says:

    This is amazing. We have had the exact same problem as shown in the video clip twice now. The first time it happened, our Kenmore (Frigidaire) front load washer was 4 years old. It is now 5 years later and the exact same thing has happened again. The spider gear failed and broke apart, resulting in the aforementioned screws in the inside tub scoring the outside wash tub. After dismantling the machine to verify our problem we called Sears and were told that we would have to wait two weeks for a service repair person to come out and (pay for the service call) to tell us what we already knew. The 25 year warranty on the drum would not be valid otherwise. We opted to order the replacement kit and do the work ourselves. After a three week wait, the part finally arrived and we have our machine working again. CONSIDERING THE WELL DOCUMENTED DEFECT IN THIS MACHINE AND SEARS FAILURE TO STAND BEHIND WHAT IT SELLS WE WILL NO LONGER SHOP FOR APPLIANCES AT SEARS.. FRUSTRATED AND DISAPPOINTED IN SAINT JOHN NB

  209. Jim Says:

    Wanda? Don’t go through Sears. They are infamous for customer noservice. I would recommend the most effective complaint would be to Frigidaire. If that provides an unsatisfactory outcome, then move to Atty General/BBB route etc.

    All of you who are frustrated (James Joyce included) I never meant to say that it wasn’t a problem or that it wasn’t serious or say that it isn’t frustrating. I’m just the kind of person who is not going to waste emotional energy on an appliance. I’d rather put that energy into fixing the problem myself. I’ve done this with the furnace, the A/C, the plumbing, problems with my cars… etc. And I didn’t realize I was that “handy,” just that we have the internet now and you can basically find out how to do anything.

    Herb? I wish I would’ve gone your route and taken the damned thing to a machine shop. I probably could’ve just gotten new bearings and a new bearing seal and used all the original parts and saved lots of money. But the wife was away for a week and I wanted it all put back together and ready to do laundry on Saturday when she returned. I do wonder why you would take the time to hack off the ends of the screws when they’re not even necessary. They are held securely by a metal clip in the metal basket itself. Oh… and I used leather gloves as much as I could for the entire project (especially getting near the cheese grater). So I was cut free (thank Heaven). Has anyone else tried putting insulation underneath the drain pump (which after my repairs became the loudest part of the machine)? I did that and can’t believe the difference. I may have mentioned this before but I have mine on rubber isolators which prevents movement and insulates against noise, as ours is on the second floor on tile.

    Owen? I agree that the “top model” front loaders ARE a bad value. My sis bought a $1500 Samsung last year and IT started spinning loud after 2 months. But I disagree that they don’t save money in the long run. I realize I’m kind of a “green freak” and I can laugh at myself about it front load washers do use less electricity to run but most of the energy savings comes from less drying time (which would use less electricity or gas). Some are able to spin at speeds of up to 1500 RPM (The Frigidaires we’re talking about spin at about 950 RPM on the final spin for the regular cycle). I hang my clothes out to dry saving even more energy (and the sun is great at bleaching tomato based stains). They are very conservative with water. I would never go back to a toploader… ever. FLs are gentler on clothing and I’ve found that my clothes come out cleaner. They do make new style top loaders without a traditional agitator and have higher spin speeds but they cost almost as much as top line FLs.

    My first experience with frontloaders was in Europe (there they even make washers and dryers that use the same basket to both wash then dry the clothes… and in a lot of the UK, they’re installed in the kitchen under the counter, which I always thought was a weird place to do laundry).

    Oh, Herb? I was going to ask you, for those of us who don’t know bearing speak, how did you find out what would be the best bearings? (I just wanted to be prepared if this happens again in ten years). ;) Did the machine shop recommend them or what?

  210. MeHere Says:

    Jim, not sure about who has spent emotional energy, but the key issue here is the defective design resulting in a lower than expected life span all at increased cost of the equipment. We bought a Frigidaire washer many years ago that lasted 15 years with moderate use (3 kids). It just ran, no issues except a minor leak from a hose fitting – easy $2 fix with 30 minute of time.

    How many people are going to make a $300+ repair plus peronal labor every three to five years on a machine that may have costed $500 initially. Not sure about the rest of you folks but my personal time off is worth to me alot more than I would pay a service tech. OK I agree some of us like to tinker – I too enjoy the tear down and reassembly. I would choose to do this once with a fixed design rather than replace the defective design with a similar.

    As for energy savings – yes I agree but at what cost? After all is said and done does anyone save money in the long run. Sure you might save water and electricity but the savings is sent to the company for repair parts.

    So to end this story, I am nearing an agreement with the OEM of this machine and will move away from these types of machines until I hear of better days. Does anyone need spare parts? The spider arm is gone but the remainder of the parts are in good shape for those who enjoy tinkering. Respond with an email and I will contact you with the details.

  211. James Joyce Says:

    Does anyone need a “new unused inner stainless steel tub?” You see, I was “forced” to buy this “tub” I did not need just so I could obtain a new spider bracket, (made in India) which has not been re-engineered or modified in anyway to address premature structural failure? What a deal for the consumer? This is a scam!

  212. David Says:

    I am yet another victim. Mine is about 6 years old. I am urging everyone to report this scam.

  213. Charlotte Holt Says:

    My Kenmore front loader (417-42052100, manufactured 11/01) started to do some knocking during the beginning of the spin cycle, and then one night several months later the knocking turned into a cacophony of banging and suddenly the stainless drum was sitting about 6-8 inches lower than it should, still turning but very unevenly and loudly. Clothes were heavy with water when the cycle finally finished. The empty drum now sits too low and seems to lean back as if barely hanging onto the rubber seal. I am assuming that the spider arms are broken, but can someone confirm for me before I call the Sears repair folks? I may decide on a replacement rather than a repair. Will also send my complaint to the BBB and FTC. If anyone knows of the proper URL for those sites, I’d appreciate it.
    This is really depressing–my washer was just about the favorite thing I owned until now. I MISS it!!!
    Thanks for whatever advice you can suggest.

  214. Neil Says:

    Latest update, All of you who get the automatic e-mails I thought you may be interested in my outcome. Sears is replacing my machine. I’m not sure which model but I should get it the beginning of next week. The attorney general swayed the outcome and I thank them so much for their help.

  215. Joejae Says:

    I had a Kenmore front load washer (Model 417. 42042100) since May 18, 2002. The washer started making noise last week and the drum can be easily swayed, so it is obvious that the spider bracket is broken. I will follow the instructions and try to repair.

    A few things to note:
    1. This thread has gone for almost one year, but where is the consumer actions?
    2. It appears that some customers have got good treatment by Sears through your local elected leaders.
    3. Some people blamed the design defect on the spider bracket on China and India. Where is the quality control? From the discussions here, the defect was on purpose, by the profit driven Corporate!!!
    4. If I cannot trust a brand that has already established, I would go for a brand that is famous and reliable outside of USA and is eager to gain market share in the USA.

  216. Tim Says:

    I have lovely grease and oil streaks in my whites now. I am assuming tbis is from the bearings, as I do believe I am hearing new noises now from the unit. I have the Kenmore front loader, manufactured 03-00, model 970-c29042-00.

    Sears canada is due over Wednesday, starting at 75$. Should I cancel him and just go out and get an LG or Bosch. My time is money and I dont have the skill or inclination to fix it myself.

    From what my father, a retired retailer says, appliances are built to last 5-10 years, similar to American cars. Manufacturers assume you will scrap and upgrade. Repairmen and tinkerers are a dying breed. When`s the last time you fixed a TV or a laptop…when they break, you simply toss them and buy a new one.

    Anyway, please email me or leave a comment here or on my blog as to what to buy before the laundry piles up.

    tim at tpg1.com

    Good news is there is no more oil leaking, I assume it`s totally drained out and now we just have metal on metal…how long can it go I wonder

  217. Andres Says:

    Tim – Sears offers a coupon to get like $60 off buying a new appliance at Sears when you pay the repair cost. So you get most of your money back – if you buy a new appliance with them. Lately, Sears (in the U.S. anyway) has had 15% off sales on their appliances. Corporations suck…what can I say…it’s all a big game. The tinkerers you make reference to (I’m not one of them) are probably trying to save themselves from getting so badly ripped off…who knows..

  218. Ampharan Says:

    From reading all the posts in here related to Front Load washers I see there is tons of misinformation going around and people guessing what caused the problem. I have ssen many false statements made and blame being laid on product. I have been a service person for over 20 years ( worked for all manufacturers) and heard every excuse people make up to cover up problems they cause. I see in posts that a few people are metal experts , experts in water mineral content and are experts on detergents (leading cause of spider assembly failure is water mineral content issues). I noticed no one post there water quality readings either.I am not sure where people have made up the dollar figures for the complete inner tub assemblies (yes they are available). They retail for $166.00 complete with front boot attatched in Canada. I even looed at the link showing how to replace the bearing yourself. It was quite amusing seeing the mention of the “flash” of plastic. Any service person knows what cause the leaks between the tub halves. To sum it up whether you buy a LG, Meile, Samsung, Maytag, Frigidaire, GE, Bosch, Asko, AEG, Hitatchi or any other brand of front load you are going to get problems with them as described above. I have seen all the above listed in the posts failures on all makes. Frigidaire sold the most so yeat it will have the highest number of complaints, but it has one of the lowest percent complaints.

  219. MeHere Says:


    I am not sure what you really mean in your post. It is pretty hard to cover up problems. If the machine is that delicate, then maybe these newer designs are just not ready for market. It is what it is when a service person arrives on site – broken. The key is root cause of the failure.

    Are you saying before buying a front loader a buyer needs to get a water test/mineral count? Is the sales person going to be able to say “No this machine will not work with that mineral count.” Does the manual indicate exceptable water contents? No, mine did not. The fact is the the machine failed inside of it’s useful life some at 25% or less that useful life. The root cause is failure of the spider arm assembly and inferior quality materials used to make it in the first place.

    You may be missing the point of most of the complaints: Relatively new machines having a catastrophic failure in 3-6 years. You may be able to buy a replacement part for $166. I was quoted $250+/- excluding shipping. This was a pretty average price seen on the web at various locations. Your price may have been a wholesale price.

    If your water content is an issue – then I would expect any type of machine to have it’s key water immersion elements become defective in or about the same time. But this apparently does not happen, does it. Sure there will be a rare few machines with infant mortality issues. Ever mass produced product has these. This apparently is not an infant mortality issue.

    Frigidare may have sold a majority of the tub assemblies, but these are then rebranded. So an exact number may be skewed.

    Apparently those of us that have bought Electrolux/Frigidaire, may have complained Possibly the company may have resolved the issue to a satisfactory level to preempt the majority of further complaints. Doing this knowing that the company may have some liability and trying to protect the brand name from undue tarnish.

    If I am wrong fill me in.

  220. Tenessa Says:

    Everyone Please file a complaint with the Attorney generals office…They say they cannot go after Sears and their washers without enough complaints about early failures. Contact jennifer Redding…502-696-5389….the only way to fight this is join together!

    Wow….It is Technicians like Ampharan and his attitude that we are all having these problems. The technicians know that these poorly designed machines give them job security. It is not in their best interest to be conerned about you or me and the headaches these machines cause us. I just had another tech leave my home telling me that my machine was working normal…If you could hear the knocking….My machine vibrated so bad that it was hitting the glass on the door and ripped out the metal ring that hold the rubber boot on. But He said “all your parts are intack and working normal”. It does not take a professional engineer to realize that When the Tech says it is rare for a metal ring to come off….that some force of abnormal behavior has cause this. Which one would conclude that the machine is not in fact working properly. Sears has spent over 5,000 in repairs on my Kenmore He3 over the past 5 years during my warranty…And it never has fallen under their lemon law. They have replaced every part in my machine in this 5 years. My sister has an old machine that she has had for 15 years and still never been serviced. She paid a 1/4 of what i paid. I agree with the last person giving their response. These machines are not suitable for the public. They have designed them to be disposable….PERIOD.

  221. Tenessa Says:

    Neil… I see that the Attoney general got your machine replaced. please help me call me I need to know how you got you machine replaced
    tenessa 859-496-9809

  222. George Creaser Says:

    Hi, I thought I’d make a post since I made the first comment here a year ago tomorrow. I feel like I started something big, but too bad it revoles around a peice of crap for machinery. I am with Tenessa and Mehere in there remarks at Ampharan. My failed machine is in my home. I have two rental units with regular top loaders that lasted many many years. I have just replaced them and I got top loaders made by Magic Chef (Whirlpool or Maytag makes them) from Futureshop. Not pretty, but a basic solid machine. When I talked to the service tech(not Sears) who checked my other old machine – he has been servicing for over 20 years and knew exactly what I was talking about when I raised the issue about the Kenmore front load – he stated “that he would never buy anything made by Frigidaire. They will not last due to poor/cheap design” He has seen them fail and others work fine. He recommended a maytag or whirlpool built. I know service people – I worked in Heating and Air conditioning for 9 years – and could tell that he knew what he was talking about from our discussion – very experienced and knowledgeable.
    Anyway, I am in Canada. Is this Attorney General complaints thing in the US? If so, what action do we take in Canada?
    Happy Anniversary
    PS My machine is still working fine with the new drum. Who knows when it will go again though.
    Thanks again for the video…whoever you are.

  223. Conestogaman Says:

    I want to thank you for bringing up this issue. I have an HE3 and was checking to see if there were any complaints about the product, and this came up. I didn’t have any problems, but like to see what might be coming up. In the last 8-9 months, my machine has started vibrating badly, and knocking things off the top. I fear I am next on the repair list.

  224. Conestogaman Says:

    I want to thank you for bringing up this issue. I have an HE3 and was checking to see if there were any complaints about the product, and this came up. I didn’t have any problems, but like to see what might be coming up. In the last 8-9 months, my machine has started vibrating badly, and knocking things off the top. I fear I am next on the repair list.

  225. tenessa Says:

    Conestogaman I am sorry to hear that you are starting to have knocking so soon…I wish that I could stand out in front of appliance stores and warn people. I have had over 4,000 in repairs from 3-5 years and just had to have my machine repaired again. I will pray that you are not in for this.

  226. Joel Says:

    Thank you everyone for your posts. I have the same Kenmore unit as in the video and it started the thumping this past weekend. We’ve had it for just over 8 years, however, the whole tub was replaced just under 4 years ago after just over 4 years of service (under a maintenance contract). I had the regular service contract and they decided it needed replacing before I reported an issue. Now reading this, it seems obvious what was wrong at that the techs had seen it more than once since they checked it on a regular annual maintenance call (always have the regular services calls included with the extended warranties).

    Troubleshooting it – I remember the tech pulling the tub back and fourth at the front. If it moves fairly easily and clunks a bit it’s going/gone. When they replaced it the inner tub was much more solid but does still move a bit. It may be hard to recognize the problem when you don’t know what a good one feels like but that’s the best I can suggest from experience.

    I’m in Ontario Canada with a service call booked for next Monday (booked it before finding this site). Based on some of the feedback here and looking at the manual the tub does have a 25 year warranty and if the arms are not sold seperately that seems to be a good angle to get at least the parts free of charge. However, I’m not really interested in a) paying for parts and labour, b) paying for parts and doing it myself, c) receiving parts free and doing it myself or finally d) having to do this every four years (even if it was no charge for parts or labour). I have these things stacked, what a pain! I’m going to make some calls today to see what I can find out from Sears/Frigidaire and will report back with what I find out.

  227. Chris From Ajax Says:

    I have given up my fight with Sears…they have refused to recognize the design problem and continually point to the fact that my machine is out of warranty. Most of my communication has been through the Better Business Bureau, but I did also go through several of the Toronto media outlets as well with letters outlining my problem.

    Personally, for the $180 for the tub which I installed myself, it isn’t worth any more of my time. I am glad that I didn’t try to claim it on the warranty because while I may (I emphasize may) have gotten the part for free, the installation would have cost more from the sounds of it.

    I won’t claim that I am never going to shop at Sears again because I have about $360 worth of SearsClub points to cash in and I can use them against a name-brand product (hello new Sony LCD). I will close my Sears card account when I have used up those gift certificates and Sears will be at the bottom of the list when I consider any new purchases. They have spoken with their ignorance of the issue and I will speak with my wallet in the future. Who knows, maybe I will send them a list of my purchases with other retailers each year to let them know what they missed out on…

    Best of luck to all who fight them and I hope that you at least fight with them long enough that they spend $150 in payroll and phone calls(or whatever the cost of the repair is in your particular case is) in responding to the complaint. Once you run out of energy, shop there as little as possible.

  228. chris z Says:

    Hi everyone-

    I too have the 417… purchased 1/04. $130 3yr sucker plan expired 1/07. Machine failed 9/7/08. THUMP THUMP THUMP THUMP, etc.

    (We are just 2 people. 4 loads/wk, tops. my math says thats about 948 total washes. Awesome. My last washer was from mid 70′s- i was too cheap to buy the $120 timer…)

    So- the manual says tub is warranted for life but i must pay for installation. Repair guy coming on 9/11 to give quote.

    Has anyone had repair done this way? Am i missing something?

    Any ideas of cost? any more advice?
    (i must admit, I haven’t finished reading all posts yet..)

    thanks to y’all-
    and special thanks to video guy.


    Also- has anyone seen this lawsuit? my washer stinks, too.

  229. Andres Says:

    Chris Z – yeah, Sears will charge like $600. $60 (or was it $70?) to come out. You’ll get a coupon for the same amount off of a new appliance at Sears. I waited until Sears was running a 15% off sale (along w/ the coupon) on appliances and got the cheapest LG.

    So far (2.5 months and probably 100′s of washes now) the LG is great and WAY quieter. No more American-made washers for me until discussions like this are very old.

  230. Luis Says:

    I buy one frigidaire galery with the bearing broke, I buy the bearings (two, one inside and one outside), and the oil seal, I spend $55.00 and my time, by the way I change the screwes on the drum outside to inside, the machine work perfect. I dont buy the parts form sears because they dont sale it.

  231. melissa Says:

    I just had that metal ring fly out of my washer. I have no idea where it came from! Can anyone tell me where it goes?

    Whatever happened in my washer today tore a linens bag in half!!!

    Help! I do not want to have to call Sears out!

  232. Tenessa Says:

    Melissa, I had this happen to me 2 weeks ago. is this metal ring the size of the opening of the washer? if so, this holds the rubber boot in place if this is correct you will have water everywhere and not be able to use your washer. This metal ring is not that expensive and the Sears tech only took minutes to install the new one. He said this never happens…but it happened to me an you. have you had trouble with your machine vibrating heavily? I believe this is what caused my metal ring to be ripped out. it also did damage to my clothes.

  233. melissa Says:


    Thank you so much! That is exactly what it is! Do you know how I put it back on? Can you take a pic of your boot a and ring and send it to me so I can see where it goes? I was up until 1AM trying to figure it out. I think my part is okay, so I dont want to have to call someone out to put it back on. It is a metal ring wiht a coil on one part of it. Where does the coil fit in the boot? Thanks so much!!!!!!

  234. melissa Says:


    Thank you so much! That is exactly what it is! Do you know how I put it back on? Can you take a pic of your boot and ring and send it to me so I can see where it goes? I was up until 1AM trying to figure it out. I think my part is okay, so I dont want to have to call someone out to put it back on. It is a metal ring wiht a coil on one part of it. Where does the coil fit in the boot? Thanks so much!!!!!!

  235. melissa Says:


    How much did you spend to repair? They offered to charge me 204 for a repair and 1 year warranty!

  236. Herb Says:

    It’s unpleasant to do yourself, FWIW (assuming it’s the spring that holds the boot to the outer plastic drum)

    You get to disassemble the machine enough to remove the outer drum, take the boot off the front panel, remove concrete weights from the plastic drum, put the boot & spring back on the outer drum, reattach the weights and reinstall the drum & glue the boot back to the front panel. And there’s an extra-fidgety clip on the boot where the fill comes in which is unpleasant.

    If you’re even semi-handy, it’s certainly doable, it’s just a few hours of time.

    OTOH, a better question is why this would have come off in the first place – excessive vibration is the only cause I can think of, which bodes ill for the bearings & spider….

    Good luck.

  237. Luis Says:

    If you gonna disasembled the machine check the bearings and the oil seal, and remember to cut the screws or you can install the screws from outside to inside, secure with silicone that way you dont have more problems later, good luck

  238. Tenessa Says:

    Melissa, The repair technician was able to acomplish this repair without having to take anything thing apart other than the rubber boot. Unfortunately I did not pay close attention. He did the entire repair right from the opening of the door. The cost of the repair was…$158.41…my metal ring was mangled…however the part was less then 20.00. One thing I remember about what he did, was he first took out the rubber boot. Then installed the ring and then reconnected the rubber boot. Start to finish the repair took about 15 minutes. Sorry I can’t be more help

  239. Herb Says:

    Wow. Better tools/more dexterous than I am. I can see how it might be possible, but given the size of the opening & how much that spring stretches to go around the whole tub, it’d be tough.

  240. Steve Says:

    Spring installation through front opening.

    I used to rubber lined furniture clamps to aid in getting the spring back in, I lubed the spring with veg oil to aid in it slipping over the rubber, I placed one clamp at 6 o’clock and worked the spring oround couterclockwise, moving the second clamp along behind my thumb and fingers to “hold” what I had when my hands needed a break to rest. I would not have been able to keep the spring in place with out the clamps. good luck

  241. Steve Says:

    I used two rubber-faced, furniture clamps to aid in getting the spring back in, I lubed the spring with veg oil to aid in it slipping over the rubber, I placed one clamp at 6 o’clock and worked the spring oround couterclockwise, moving the second clamp along behind my thumb and fingers to “hold” what I had when my hands needed a break to rest. I would not have been able to keep the spring in place with out the clamps.
    The clamps were the pistol grip style furniture clamps, I did take the door off, two screws to give me more room to work through the opening. again,
    good luck

  242. DJ Says:

    Just an FYI.

    Sears Parts and Service (Canada) sells a inner/outer drum kit that includes the inner and outer drum all assembled for $152.99 CAD. This would give you both the rear bearings (rear drum pt#131525500) and the spider arm (inner drum pt#131618500) and save you some time and money. If your bearing have gone it’s likely that the spider arm needs replacing also. To buy these seperately it costs $135 and $190 respectively ($325 combined plus you’ll probably need the $17 gasket).

    The catch is that they will not sell to the consumer, only to the technicians and they have to do the work as there is a 25 year warrantee on the stainless steel drum. To get around this, go to the Sears Parts and Service facility and ask for part 134453200. From what I experienced and from what I’ve researched they should sell it to you. They will however document the purchase which will void your warrantee.

    As for the repair, I recommend this document >> http://www.applianceblog.com/washers/RearBearingV6.pdf .

    Also, here is a list of Manufactures that use these parts >> Kenmore, Frigidaire, Gallery, Gibson, Whirlpool, Maytag, G.E.

  243. Chris from Ajax Says:

    You can order discreetly via a Sears Canada website…nobody to question if I am a technician ;)

    Below is the direction that I was given when I inquired on the part # back in June – details on how to complete the form and I never had to speak with anyone…I received a call about 5 days after I ordered it telling me it was ready to be picked up. This is for the whole assembly (inner and outer tubs, rear flywheel). The good thing (if there is one in this mess) is that they only charge you $6.00 for the shipping to the catalogue agent.

    Website for the inquiry: http://www5.sears.ca/hips.nsf/eparts
    ITEM : 26 970134453200
    SELL PRICE : 152.99 EXP. DATE : 06/27/08

    The trip charge is roughly around 80.00$ + part + labour .. we do not have a houtly rate… Charges are confirmed by our technicians

    If you wish to order by internet, you must resubmit your Part Inquiry/Request with the information in all the fields stating part # above in appropriate field. Do not forget to give your complete address with #, street name, city, phone #. Also in Additional Comments you must indicate your credit card # with exp. date. Delivery charges of $ 6.00 and Taxes are applicable on all orders..

  244. Debbie Says:

    This is appalling. Sears/Kenmore used to be the gold standard for practically everything. A little over a year ago I bought 4 major appliances from Sears. There were hassles galore at every turn during delivery, rebate processing, exchange,and lack of any kind of customer service. I wrote down every attempt to contact both the local Sears store and corporate to correct all the problems I was having through out the entire process. I never once received any type of acknowledgment from Sears at any level let alone an apology.

    I have vowed never ever to spend one more cent at Sears.

    Now my front loading washer model #110 has developed a problem. About half way through the wash it stops and flashes the trouble shooting code F30. The owners manual only says it’s an electrical problem and I should call for service. It’s just past the one year warranty. Interesting.

  245. Tenessa Says:

    Debbie this is not surprising. YOu are just one of the many that have discovered that sears is not what it used to be. These machines are designed to fail. My first one had major issues in the first year but that was over 5 years ago and sears replaced it then. my 2nd one quickly started to have problems and here I am 5 years later and Sears has spent over $4,000 repairing and will not honor their replacement guarentee under their Master Protection agreeement. I am sorry for your misfortune unfortunately this is the NEW Sears. If you love your family and freinds tell them to stay away from Sears.

  246. crafty Says:


    Just for the record As of today I am able to order part as Chris from AJAX ontario described to a Sears warehouse in my area. Being able to replace the whole tub assembly seems like there should be a huge time savings but in reading the how to at (http://www.applianceblog.com/washers/RearBearingV6.pdf) I am trying to figure out how much. I may be forced to make a move sooner rather than later because our machine is getting quite noisy although I suspect bearings or those screw ends more than I suspect a failed spider assembly… At any rate I should have enough parts to do a rebuild over the longer term if the spider isn’t too corroded..

    I am reading the how to

    The part that interests you is
    ITEM : 26 970134453200
    S ELL PRICE :$ 152.99 EXP. DATE : 09/26/08

    De livery charges of 10% (Minimum $ 6.95; Maximum $ 50.00) and Taxes are applicable on all orders.

    To order please call 1-800-4-MY-HOME/1-800-469-4663.

    Thank you & Have a nice day !

    Maria Gouvis
    Sears parts on line
    Sears pièces en lignes

  247. Steve Says:

    Just finished putting in the the tub kit, took exactly 3 hours to install and it works great. It took quite the act to get the part. I live in the Seattle area and ordered it from Sears in Canada and had it shipped to a friend in Vancouver Canada, it never arrived because it’s a part only technicians can order. So I reordered the part and had it shipped to the Vancouver store and it arrived. I had my friend pick it up and drive it down to me in the Seattle area and installed it myself. Ordering the part is the most difficult part of the whole repair. The total cost me $152.99 for the part and $14.74 for shipping for a total of $167.73. This was far less than replacing the bearings alone. My spider arm broke approx. 9 months earlier, I did not know about the bearings going out shortly after, so if you are going to do this, replace the spider arm and bearings to make it worth your while. I have a GE model machine which is made by Frigidaire just like the Sears and many other models. I have always used Tide HE for my machine since it was new, have excellent quality city water, but I use fabric softener. Maybe the water and detergent doesn’t have anything to do with the spider arm failure, but maybe the softener does? Not sure, but love to have my washer back. I had my previous top loader GE for 15 years without one repair, I just decided to help out the environment and save some water, and this is what happens 5 years later. I should be set for another 5 years, I hope! This site has been a great help to me, Thanks, Steve

  248. crafty Says:

    Thanks for the help steve…

    I am a bit lucky because The sears parts depot is close to my home.

    I totally agree with you sentiment about feeling cheated for trying to be a bit more environamentally sensitive. However when were sold this item we are also told we could expect a lot better reliabilty because there is no transmission that will wear out.. I remember the first time I setup the machine and saw how everything was made out of plastic and thought wow that seems a little light duty…But those engineers know what they are doing


  249. Dan Says:


    We bought our machine in August 2004.
    I too took the machine apart and noted the rear spider on the drum was cracked in several places.
    Went to Ottawa and managed to find a sears repair facility willing to sell me the entire wash tub assembly (plastic housing, drum, spider, bearing, pulley). Not sure why they require you to buy it all.
    Cost me about $180 CDN. I also had to buy two new shocks as the previous ones were broken due to the faulty drum.

    The machine has worked fine until now, almost two years later and its starting to make the same “familiar” thumping sounds.

    Basically the company telling you that HE detergent is the cause is crap.
    No way that you should have to use a low suds detergent to prevent the spider from cracking.
    They are trying to pass the buck.

    My advice would be to RUN from these Kenmore / Frigidare front loads. They are junk and will not last.

  250. Dan Says:

    Forgot to mention it broke the first time in Summer of 2006. Now its broken the second time in summer of 2008.

    Seems to last about 2 years before needing repairs.

  251. Kevin in Markham, ON Says:

    Chris (from Ajax) wonder if you can comment on how the repair has held up so far?
    Mine died just 4 years after purchase. I don’t think anything’s under warranty any more – and seems the spider arms on mine have died. The outer tub is cut through when the inner tub fell off its holding… so it’s leaking out the bottom.
    If I order that part it would replace the outer tub plus the inner and arms? That seems to be what you said…
    But now is it worth it for me to do it and most likely do it again in 4-5 years (3 kids…a lot of washing…) or should I just junk it and buy a top loader?

    And if I do buy a new machine, does anyone want mine for parts?

  252. Tenessa Says:

    thought I would give you guys an update. After 6 years and on my 2nd machine. With 14 repairs in the last 2 years. And with 2 previous promises from Sears to replace my machine (but nothing in writting)…SEARS has finally agreed to replace my machine. Why? Because they cannot stop the vibrations. They have replaced every part in the machine down to electrical boards. Still knocks horribly and has done damage to the machine on numerous occations. These machines were design to self destruck. I am not getting a front loader again and I am certainly not going to get my replacement from SEARS. Attorney General…BBB and my lawyers was not able to make this happen. Prayer was the only thing that worked. God bless you all

  253. Tenessa Says:

    thought I would give you guys an update. After 6 years and on my 2nd machine. With 14 repairs in the last 2 years. And with 2 previous promises from Sears to replace my machine (but nothing in writting)…SEARS has finally agreed to replace my machine. Why? Because they cannot stop the vibrations. They have replaced every part in the machine down to electrical boards. Still knocks horribly and has done damage to the machine on numerous occations. These machines were design to self destruck. I am not getting a front loader again and I am certainly not going to get my replacement from SEARS. Attorney General…BBB and my lawyers was not able to make this happen. Prayer was the only thing that worked.

  254. Chris From Ajax Says:

    Kevin…our machine lasted almost 7 years before the spider arms broke but that was only with two of us doing maybe 3 loads per week on average. Now there’s three of us and we are doing a load at least every other day for the wee one but still not much use in my mind.

    I will put the question back to you – can you buy a new top-load machine for $180? If not, then the repair is the way to go (if you aren’t paying for the labour and do it yourself). So far, this is the only “routine” problem that I have seen for these washers and the frame and motor appear to hold up fairly well. And it isn’t a complicated repair and you can find instructions with pictures on the web…took me about 3 hours, but I could probably do it in half that time now that I have done it.

    If you do decide to buy a new one, my personal view is to avoid giving any money to Sears, but if you must, do not buy a Kenmore. They make a much higher profit on it because it is their house label, and you never know who made it or where. Stick with the name brand and then you can go back to the manufacturer if anything breaks down…

  255. God Says:

    Tenessa…sorry, I had nothing to do with the repairs on your machine. I was busy helping the Steelers win their game on Monday, but I thank you for giving me the credit. Would love to chat some more, but there are so many things in the world that I must attend to – wars, famines, tidal waves, earthquakes, broken down refrigerators, etc. It never ends – maybe I’ll see if Allah or Buddha can help me out for a bit.

  256. Kevin in Markham, ON Says:

    Thanks Chris. I made a call to sears last night… the guy couldn’t even find my machine at first. It’s more than the money – it’s the 3-5 hrs of time which I don’t have with 3 kids running around.

    Decided I’m buying a decent but basic top loader for $350 – so if you or anyone wants mine for parts – all circuit boards work fine – it’s just the tubs and drum that are busted – then come and take it. Frame, panel, everything else is fine.

    And nope, not going back to Sears or Frigidaire. The way things are made these days they’re almost all “throw aways” Sigh… my 20 year old dryer has laster longer than the new washer!!!

  257. Neil Says:

    Just a note to all, Sears did replace my washer with the same model except it was Frigidaire. How I got them to replace it was to contact the attorney general of my state, and they put the pressure on. After the state A/G office contacted the Sears store where I bought it they contacted me right away and told me they had ordered me a new one. Don’t even discuss extended warranties. If your state is like mine we have an Implied Warranty. That is what I used against them. They are liable for the poor quality!

    good luck all, of course my implied warranty is now good for another 4 years. To check out my law go to Maine state.org and consumer protection, implied warranty.

  258. BRENT Says:


  259. Rob Says:

    Complete basket/drum/motor assembly falls out of machine!!! Anyone else have this problem aside from the spider assembly?
    I was at Sears this morning, then called service for problems with our Kenmore front loader Mdl#417-41142000. They told me they were unaware of any problems. Just found this site. The two springs that suspend the plastic tub cut through the eyelets on the tub, the oneside completely through. The tub/motor assembly fell to the bottom of the machine denting out the side of the washer. We had a sears repairman out a while ago and he told us 1,500.00 for repair. Also said any damage to the motor or electronics or anything else would be my responsibility, materials,labor. He was persistant upon getting my credit card number to start repairs. When he said he couldn’t troubleshoot any electronic damage until we paid to have a whole new tub assembly installed, only then could they check to see if the controls or motor had been damaged. I asked about worse case senario to repair, he told me over 2,000.00. I conveyed that this model was purchased for 849.00, a little over 2 years ago and now is selling for 549.00 new. I asked if there was any rational in spending 1,000 to 2,000 dollars to fix a machine that you could buy new for $549.00. And why Sears would not just replace the machine not to waste my or his time. He persued my credit card to start repairs and I told him to get out of my house. I have been looking for problems with this model and just found all the complaints, I couldn’t find complaints these last 2 years. An honest sears sales person at one of the hardward stores told me to go to corporate for complete replacement. I called today and got the major run-a-round. Now I know why.

  260. Debbie Says:

    Wow. This is sad. It seems like corporate rip offs are the norm now not the exception. Anything for the bottom line NOW and screw tomorrow. What greed.

    Here is a site (there are probably others) where you can voice and opinion or find out if there are any recalls/ lawsuits and so on happening. It may not be all inclusive I don’t know.

    Before this purchase of 4 major appliances from Sears I always went to Lowes or Factory Direct Appliance (perhaps a local store). I will return to them after research to be sure they haven’t fallen into the sinkhole that is corporate greed over quality as service.

    Best wishes to you all and thank you for your support.

  261. Rob Says:

    Rob Says:
    October 4th, 2008 at 10:39 pm Complete basket/drum/motor assembly falls out of machine!!! Anyone else have this problem aside from the spider assembly?
    I was at Sears this morning, then called service for problems with our Kenmore front loader Mdl#417-41142000. They told me they were unaware of any problems. Just found this site. The two springs that suspend the plastic tub cut through the eyelets on the tub, the oneside completely through. The tub/motor assembly fell to the bottom of the machine denting out the side of the washer. We had a sears repairman out a while ago and he told us 1,500.00 for repair. Also said any damage to the motor or electronics or anything else would be my responsibility, materials,labor. He was persistant upon getting my credit card number to start repairs. When he said he couldn’t troubleshoot any electronic damage until we paid to have a whole new tub assembly installed, only then could they check to see if the controls or motor had been damaged. I asked about worse case senario to repair, he told me over 2,000.00. I conveyed that this model was purchased for 849.00, a little over 2 years ago and now is selling for 549.00 new. I asked if there was any rational in spending 1,000 to 2,000 dollars to fix a machine that you could buy new for $549.00. And why Sears would not just replace the machine not to waste my or his time. He persued my credit card to start repairs and I told him to get out of my house. I have been looking for problems with this model and just found all the complaints, I couldn’t find complaints these last 2 years. An honest sears sales person at one of the hardward stores told me to go to corporate for complete replacement. I called today and got the major run-a-round. Now I know why.

  262. Sue Hachey Says:

    I bought my front load from Sears 2002, and have had the exact situation with the spider eroding in my hands. I called Sears on Sept the 5th to order the complete tub kit and have never received it, (although you can bet they charged me for it). After speaking to dozens of call center employees and corporate customer service, I called head office and left a message for the manager of customer service. She has never returned my call!!! I was told many would return my call, and never did. You are right : you get the complete run around” WHAT A RACKET! I asked them if they could possibly have the common sense to order another part, since they lost the first part. What are the chances?? (they lost the second order for the part). I have been more than patient, and finally said the hell with this, asked for my money back and purchased a new LG washer from Home depot. I will NEVER, EVER, buy another item from Sears Canada. Their customer service is terrible, and that is quite an under statement, the ycouldn’t care less about the consumer. I have read several complaints on Sears, and could spend many more hours doing so. I would encourage not buying from Sears, especially major appliances. I would not want anyone to go through the inconveniences that we have gone through the last 6 weeks. I have spent many hours on the phone, as well as, many hours at the laundry mat. SEARS has definately put a BAD TASTE in my mouth.

  263. Russell Says:

    Same exact thing…took washer apart today…two spider arms broken. Hard as hell to get freakin shaft/SS tub out of rear shell.
    Total piece of &^$#.

  264. steven Says:

    fully bought mine in 2002 also and rear bearing is bad, and cant just buy the bearing but need whole rear shell assembly with bearing in it for 170. plus shipping and tear whole machine apart, but guess worked for 6yrs. so what do you do buy another one?

  265. Sue Says:

    Best thing to do unfortunately is buy another one. I had to do so, however, definately not from Sears! My ordeal has been going on since Sept5th with Sears. I ordered the same part twice that I have never received and now I have been waiting 3 weeks for a crredit on my visa………….I guess I will have to fight another 2 months to get my money back! What a complete nightmare. I had to purchase a new washer. I purchased an LG front load after alot of research from Homedepot.
    I cross my fingers that this one lasts me more than 6 years.

  266. David Says:

    Unfortunately we have just experienced the same problem. We bought our Kenmore front loader washing machine and dryer in August 2005 and now the washing machine is DOA. Just recently the washer made a deafening noise and we found the drum was completely loose inside. We called Sears and they sent a repairman who cost $80.00 just to show up. He simply wiggled the drum and told us that the spider arm was broken and that it would cost approximately $500 (with taxes) to fix. He said that because we didn’t use the low sud detergent, that it broke. The original salesman clearly said we could use regular detergent, but only use half as much. He did not warn us of any danger nor was there anything in the manual about the risks of using regular liquid detergent. So now I have to throw it in the garbage after only three years. I am simply flabbergasted at the whole ordeal. My only defense is to tell as many people as I can.
    bout the kenmore front loader and . We bought ours August 2005

  267. Tenessa Says:

    David I am soo sorry you have to go through this these machines are soo expensive….The best thing you can do is file a complaint through your attorney generals office. SEars knows this is a common problem and is not being forced to do anything about it.

  268. Luis Says:


  269. John Says:

    If you take the route of making the repair, which is moderately difficult, you can return your machine to better than original condition. Like others, I did get the new inner tub assembly (which is the stainless steel tub and the aluminum casting/spindle assembly) under warranty (it is stainless steel and is why it’s warranted so long. Clearly, they never thought the soap etc. in the wash tub would completely eat the aluminum casting holding the stainless-steel tub and the spindle together.)

    First, the new casting that bolts to the drum and is cast onto the spindle, does not have all the nooks and crannies as the original.

    Also, it is super important to paint the casting prior to installing the whole assembly. Yes, that is another step in the process, but if you’re going to the trouble of replacing the parts, do it right. You will need to take the two bolts per arm off (six total [three arms]) and apply some prying force to get it free from the lip. But, once done, you can paint all surfaces of the casting, a key point.

    I decided to use POR-15 for the paint. It is specifically a marine-quality paint. You can use rustoleum as another poster suggested, but POR 15 is a better solution, though probably 10x more expensive; but you get what you pay for and I did not want to go through this again.

    I also had to replace the front half of the plastic tub. So, if you hear thumping and see even any plastic in the tub, you should not run it any more as I did.

  270. Chris From Ajax Says:

    TAKE ACTION AND BE HEARD!!! The following is an article from the consumer rights advocate for the Toronto Star newspaper from Saturday Nov 1…send your personal stories to Ellen Roseman (eroseman@thestar.ca)
    Appliance repairs give nasty shock

    What could be worse than having your home refrigerator break down and having to wait several weeks for repairs?

    When Chris Mak needed a new circuit board for his two-year-old GE Profile refrigerator, he was told the part was out of stock and had to be ordered. So, he took matters into his own hands.

    “With two young kids at home and on a Thanksgiving weekend, we could not afford to continue without a fridge,” he says. “I managed to find a part here in Toronto the next day, an original GE part that cost $196.33. It took me 10 minutes to remove the old motherboard and install a new one.”

    But Mak ran into a roadblock with Mabe Canada, which manufactures GE appliances after buying Camco Inc. in 2005.

    It would cover the cost of the part only if it was installed by an authorized GE technician.

    He asked On Your Side to help. Two weeks after his fridge broke down, Mabe still didn’t have the part in stock.

    “Imagine if I didn’t source it myself. I would still be waiting without a fridge and two very unhappy kids.”

    Mak had already won a victory with Direct Energy, the authorized service provider for GE appliances.

    He didn’t want to pay $90 for Direct Energy’s initial service call – since the fridge was not repaired – and he won a refund.

    I got in touch with Mabe’s customer service, based in Moncton, N.B., and heard back from Daniel Dufour, general manager of operations.

    “We will be refunding the cost of the part to Mr. Mak,” he said.

    “Unfortunately, our employee did not refer the file to a manager and strictly followed policy.”

    Cyd Deming asked On Your Side to help with a dispute about repairs to her three-year-old Maytag Neptune front-load washing machine.

    The washer did not drain properly, causing water to spill onto the computer board and create a short circuit – along with mould, mildew and odours.

    Sears sent out a technician, who said a new circuit board would cost at least $500. She should save the money and put it toward a new washing machine.

    Whirlpool Canada would not cover repairs – despite having compensated other Canadian and U.S. owners of Maytag Neptune front-loading washers for costs incurred before 2004 as part of a successful class-action lawsuit.

    “Both Maytag and Sears are fully aware of this problem, but both firms deny accountability. They say, `Well, you used it for three years.’ When you purchase a $1,595 washing machine, a top-of-the-line product, you expect it to last 10, 20, maybe 30 years like my mom’s – not three years.”

    I asked both companies to help. This week, Whirlpool called Deming to say it would review her documents and decide whether to provide reimbursement. “The item should never have been on Sears’ showroom floor for sale in the first place,” Deming insists.

    Because of the mould caked inside the washer, she has moved it into her garage.

    Vincent Power, a spokesman for Sears Canada, said he wanted to investigate further to see how customers could fall between the cracks. “It must feel terrible to be caught between two reputable companies, both saying it’s the other’s responsibility.”

    I’d like to hear from readers. Did you have trouble getting quality issues addressed after the first year? And do you think it’s right for manufacturers to offer only a one-year warranty on major appliances and consumer electronics?

    Ellen Roseman’s column appears Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. You can reach her at eroseman@thestar.ca.

  271. Kevin (in Markham) Says:

    Thanks for the post Chris. I have sent her my “story” about the washer. Mine is now disposed of and recycled (the town of Markham charges $10 for a pickup of major appliances to be recycled – cheaper than a store taking it).

    As for my new appliance, happily using a new Whirlpool bought from Future Shop. Hoping this lasts 50 years to make up for the 4 on the last one!

  272. seeker Says:

    This site and its posts have been very informative. Now, at least I don’t just feel “unlucky” with my suddenly noisy Kenmore. I also feel duped.
    Gonna try the bearings first.

  273. Larry Says:

    I have the same type problem. During hi-speed spin it makes a loud knocking noise. I do notice that when I take the back off the washer and slowly turn the tub that it makes a knocking type noise at the same point of each rotation. I’m not sure if it could be a bearing or perhaps a shaft issue. LP

  274. LEO Says:


  275. LEO Says:


  276. jason Says:

    I must say that the majority of people posting about these products have not read their manuals. Having repaired these machines in the past i can absolutely, positively, say that there are three factors that contribute to the demise of the spider/bearing. When these break it is typically because you are using the wrong type of soap. Regular soap is made much more concentrated because it is meant for use with a machine that uses alot of water. HE detergent is much less costic and breaks down better in your machine. If you do not have an automatic temperature control equipped with your machine, and you use cold water, the cold water will not break down the soap, thus resulting in a build-up of detergent along the spider assembly/bearing. The ATC brings the water up to 72 degrees so that the soap will dissolve, if not it’s like washing your dishes with cold water, doesnt work. Thirdly, you are probably using TOO MUCH soap. Soap companies are in the business to sell soap, not help preserve your machine, so cut your usage in Half. If you abide by these three rules your machine should last ten years. Appliances now are not rated to last any longer than that, and as with cars or anything else, the cheaper you pay the cheaper quality you get.

    Now according to that video, the guy blames the scoring on the front shell to the screws that hold the vanes inside the stainless steel drum. They do not make contact with the shell at any point, unless, the bearing or spider assembly dissentegrate, thus not providing a proper seal where the two drums connect to one another and they start bouncing around. The moment you hear it start to clunk, get yourself a new drum or else you will only do more damage to your machine.
    This does not apply to just one set of front load washers, All front load washers of all makes and models work the same way and when not used to spec, will end up failing in the same manor.

  277. Sue Says:

    Haven’t read our manuals!!!!!!! I believe in 2002 we had never heard of HE soap. Obviously the sales people in so many of these cases had not either, otherwise, it would have been mentioned to their customers.
    In regards to too much soap, I would have to disagree. With my frontload I used less than half, because if you happened to use more, your clothes would not rinse properly due to way too many suds. You obviously don’t own a front load. You sound as though you are a service technician rather than a consumer of this product.

  278. Tenessa Says:

    DITTO!!! Manuals of 2002 stated that you could use less than the normal deterant OR HE detergent…But again most did not know what that was. The sales pitch I got was that it would save me on detergent. When Technicians tried to give me that Bull about using HE i showed my manual to the technicians each time they came out…I made them out to be liers. They were shocked that they had always been told that IT was our Fault….I said OH NO…We were sold on the idea that we would use much less of the normal detergent and since at that Time you did not even see HE detergent on the shelves you were all about buying your favorite detergent and saving on using less. Of course we were all forced to change as this story of how the detergent ruined the machine was put on the consumer….The truth is they did not know that the detergent ruined the machine till at least 2003. And when they did realize it they changed the manuals and started to blame the consumer for improper use.

  279. Herb Says:

    We’d always used HE detergent from day one, and as another commenter pointed out, using anything like the “recommended amount” prevented a decent rinse. That said, I’ve had to replace the bearings and seal in mine after about 6 years. The spider was in pretty decent shape, with very minor pitting. It was caked with undissolved powder detergent however, which we did use before finding a source for liquid HE detergent.

    Maybe – under ideal conditions (and less than average use) the seals and bearings would hold up for ten years, but we were inadvertently astonishingly careful, and still experienced what I would consider a premature failure. I can only attribute this to a either a cheap seal or poorly manufactured bearings, or both.

    I can’t explain why the spider on mine was in decent shape and why others of very similar vintages were completed rotted away. I strongly suspect alkaline water, which will tend to corrode aluminum faster than acidic water, if I recall chemistry anything like correctly.

    The abundance of failures seen here would appear to indicate a more systemic problem involving galvanic corrosion between the stainless steel drum and the cast aluminum spider, made worse with certain water conditions. Is it possible that the use of non-HE detergent exacerbated these conditions? Sure. But it’s listed as “safe for use” in my machine, provided that reduced amounts are used, and that’s what’s gotten people here sore.


  280. pico Says:

    Wow the video is great. I can assess from looking at the back side of my now dented ss tub that my spider assembly has disintegrated. Since my GE WSXH208V0WW is >10 yrs old I guess I’ll toss it and get something new. Any suggestions?

  281. Barry (Kitchener) Says:

    What a sinking feeling when I found this web page as I was hoping for something much simpler. But yup, I’ve since installed a new tub assembly and just opened up the old tub assembly to find the spider broken in two places. Thanks for all your posting since with this info, I found no surprises when ordering the new parts and the detailed instructions at
    were invaluable. I probably would have fussed for hours getting the door gasket off! It still took me until 2 am (5 hours) to repair. Now for my own discoveries to share…

    Backing up to last Saturday, I called Sears service Saturday morning and sure enough, they had the replacement drum and spider in stock for $199. I called back to learn about their refund policy just in case I backed out of the repair. This time a women answered and she suggested I purchase instead the full tub assembly which included the bearings. I was rather skeptic she was talking about the same thing since it was cheaper – $152! When do you get more for less? So I reserved both parts and then when I visited the parts centre an hour later, they confirmed that in deed the $152 purchase gave me more and would make for an easier repair. Nearest I can figure is that it’s a bigger mover and therefore cheaper to stock. As it turns out, my bearings are just fine but boy, was I glad to have the whole assembly. By the way, the Cambridge/Kitchener (Ontario) parts service counter have great people working there.

    I was advised by the service centre to have a friend over to help since the tub assembly is heavy. The above instructions failed to warn you that the tub has a huge casing of cement attached to the front end which can not be separated until after the tub is removed. Therefore, after removing the suspension springs, the tub is sitting on wood blocks and can be a real bear to move – unless you apply a little engineering. What I did was instead of setting the tub down on wood blocks, I built two wood rails that ran through the washer from front to back and extended about 2 or 3 feet out the back. Then with the weight of the cement blocks sitting on the rails, I could simply slide the tub assembly out the rear end – no lifting required.

    Once out, the tub assembly was tilted up on it’s end. I removed the bolts, and then slid the tub off the cement weights. This did require a bit of help and my wife managed quite well with the lifting as I carefully pried the cement away from the tub, careful not to crack it anywhere. The new tub assembly then just slide back on top and re-assembly began.

    Inspecting the new tub, I couldn’t find the studs that protrude out of the steel drum so I guess they fixed that mistake. I was tempted to open the new assembly to see if they did anything about the aluminum against the Stainless Steel but didn’t want to jeopardize my repair. I still intend to investigate this galvanic problem and see if I can come up with a sacrificial anode like zinc as done for boats.

    As for Jason’s comments about the HE soap, well, they are his and he can have his say. I think we can see through them. Our machine was purchased in Feb. 2004 and right from the start we used Kenmore brand HE powder soap, recommended by the sales people for the front loader. Furthermore, only 1/2 the recommended amount was used per load. I believe the soap had very little to do with it and the Aluminum and stainless steel thing explains it all.

    Next I’ll send my story to Ellen Roseman (eroseman@thestar.ca). Then some letter writing to Sears and see what happens. In these economic times, I expect nothing!

    For the record….
    Model: 970-C42162-00
    Purchase Date: February 2004
    Failure Date: Nov. 14, 2008
    Tub Assembly replaced: Nov. 17, 2008 ($152 plus taxes).

  282. Phil Says:

    Just a thank you for all of the information regarding the repair. I performed the bearing replacement rather than the entire tub as the tub arm assembly looked almost new. A local bearing shop was able to provide higher quality replacements and a seal. Compared to the tub removal, the actual bearing replacement was relatively easy using a drift to remove the old bearings and a block of wood and mallet to install the new bearings. Although the tub o-ring looked fine, I also replaced it rather than chance a leak. Finally, I found a crack in one of the shock absorber eyes and replaced both shocks — the replacements come in twos and appear to be of an improved design with a metal support where the original was of plastic or perhaps nylon. My cost for parts was about $100 and a couple of evenings. Nice to have a quiet smoothly running machine again.

  283. David Says:

    The link provided here shows the rear view of the inner tub after removal from the outer tub. I tried to figure out a way to repair the spider part where it broke apart. There is significant corrosion of the spider due to residual powdered detergent that accumulated between the spider and the tub as shown. Was unable the repair. I am now looking for a replacement spider, that’s the only thing I need. Wish me luck. http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo181/rhino44_photo/

  284. LEO Says:


  285. Nancy Says:

    I found this discussion the afternoon after purchasing a Kenmore front loading pair (model 48112 washer) for a Black Friday price of $600 for the pair. I knew going in that this washer had a 50/50 rating-two and a half stars-and I won’t say I was not apprehensive about our purchase. But the price got me and since there are just 2 of us doing an average of 2.5 loads a week, I figured it was a fair gamble.

    I have not taken delivery of these units yet so do not have the complete model number to look if I have a Frigidaire manufactured unit, but the salesperson said it was.

    I have read all these comments and watched the video. I explained the details to my Handy Hubby and he watched the video, too. (He had recently replaced the pump in my 9 year old Whirlpool top loader and cleaned it up well and I expected another 4-5 years out of it–oh well… Luckily we have room to store it–not get rid of it, just in case???)

    We discussed some preventative care to the washer before we install it (ourselves). But before tearing apart a brand new unit, Handy Hubby had another idea: What about installing sacrificial anodes in the stainless steel tub? Does a sacrificial anode not work if it is not touching the endangered metal directly, in this case the spider bracket? Can you add too much aluminum alloy sacrificial anode(s)? His experience with sacrificial anodes was to protect the lower units of boat motors.

    Is there a screw from the inside of the stainless steel tub to each arm of the spider bracket to provide an anode-to-metal pathway?

    Salts must be the main culprit. You think there is any connection between the speed at which the aluminum bracket corrodes with owners having water softeners? Is HE detergent lower in salts than regular? Is there something I can use that is even lower in salts than HE detergent? Some questions I am pondering…

  286. hethere Says:

    Nancy, you mean to tell me you bought one even after knowing it was a dud to begin with? Sounds like the true meaning of insanity – knowing the eventual outcome and repeating history, hoping for a different outcome. Good luck. Maybe when it does eventually break the compnay will rebate you a fair amount. Good luck with that also.

    Anodes might do the trick, but why risk good dollars and time and effort. You will need to replace the zinc anodes – so put them in an area where you can replace easily.

    BTW I had a hard water bias – not soften and my machine did not last more that 3 years on light use – 3 loads per week tops. On inspection of the arms after the failure, there were little signs of deep corrosion, more like stress fractures from defective forging.

  287. Phil Says:

    LEO: I purchased the bearings and seal at Bearing, Belt, and Chain in Tucson 520-792-1231. The bearings were an easy match, the seal, however, required shipment. But, the folks at the store handled everything. Be sure you get a high quality seal. Best of luck.

  288. Jeanne Says:

    Has anyone had an issue with the bleach dispenser not releasing the bleach on these machines? Also, my whites just don’t seem to get clean. We have the Kenmore HE4T. No problems yet other than these two items, but I sure am glad I read this as I will know what is going on when (not if) it fails. Thanks so much for everyone’s input!!

  289. DAVID Says:

    Hello All:


    You said, “By the way, those screws on the fins are not even necessary. The fins have tabs that slide in and forward. They are locked into place by bending a tab in the drum. I was a little worried about how they’d hold but after 20 loads of laundry I’m convinced they’re unnecessary.”

    Have those “Fins” managed to stay attached since removing the offending screws or did you find it necessary to replace the screws since your entry last June?

    I still await the Spider and Bearing failure on my nearly 8 year old Frigidaire Model FWTB69RGSO.

    However, it is interesting to note these Frigidaire/Kenmore tub/bearing failure problems are so numerous. Recently, I was walking through my neighborhood and noticed a Front Load Kenmore, 417.4304220, waiting to be picked-up by the trash collector. Being curious about why a machine that was manufactured in August, 2003, (according to the serial tag), was already destined for the scrap heap, I reached into the open tub door and tried rotating the inner stainless steel wash tub/basket. Sure enough, the stainless steel inner tub had broken free of the Spider Support and was scraping on the plastic outer tub. I questioned the owner about the machine’s short life span and was told the machine had not been installed until sometime in 2005!

    I stripped the machine of all good parts, but expect to be replacing bearings and tub components on my machine before any of these salvaged parts are required for service needs.

    Sears, U.S., does not acknowledge the existence of a replacement tub assembly, part# 134453200, available through Sears, Canada Item: 26 970134453200. Unfortunately, Sears, Canada will not ship to the U.S.. Price for the complete tub assembly, part# 134453200, is nearly $500.00 in the U.S.

  290. JamesJoyce Says:


    Nice score with the used washer. I have done same and have help friends in similar situations with good used parts from discarded washers! Unfortunately people are being used and scammed in these circumstances. Everyone here should send a link to this site: http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-repair-help/washer-repair/why-kenmore-front-load-washers-fail-271/ , to your local consumer protection programming at TV news stations, electronic letters to the editors local newspapers, local government and state AG Consumer Divisions and other media/information outlets which might pick up the story, along with a short email explaining your circumstance! Maybe Santa can intervene and fix the made in India, designed to fail faulty front load washer spider bracket crisis, still being sold today? Happy Holidays

  291. DAVID Says:

    James Joyce:

    I recorded the Model & Serial Number on the discarded unit
    As you suggest, and for the benefit of future buyers of this model, I will be reporting the “trashed” machine to the recommended agencies and organizations.

    Dose anyone know…When the Rear Tub Shell and Bearing Assembly (Part# 131525500) is ordered through Sears, U.S., will Sears U.S. automatically ship the Complete Tub Assembly, (Part# 134453200), instead of only the Rear Tub Shell and Bearing Assembly (Part# 131525500)? From the comments on this site, it appears Sears Canada is sending complete tub assemblies, only. Just wanted to know if the same applies to Sears U.S.

    Sears Parts Direct service representatives are not aware if a complete tub assembly is automatically substituted and shipped when a customer only orders the rear tub and bearing assembly, part# 131525500. Please let us know what you have actually received if you have ordered the Rear Tub Shell and Bearing Assembly (Part# 131525500) from Sears, U.S.

    Thank you to everyone for taking the time to document and share their Frigidaire/Kenmore Front-Load Clothes Washer tub/bearing related failures on this site and exposing this outrageous, known problem, which can only be corrected by redesigning the tub support and bearing assembly.

  292. Brian B. Says:

    Following this thread with interest as our 7 year old machine just imploded for all of the reasons described here. Corroded spider arm broke off and took out a huge chunk of the rear tub with it. Dramatic.

    Sears Parts and Service Canada has over 200 full tub assemblies in stock across the country with **over 300 on order**. The service guy on the phone actually sounded surprised when he read that to me off of his screen. If that doesn’t speak to a known issue/planned obsolescence, I don’t know what does. Interestingly, the price appears to have jumped in the last month, and now sits at $229 CAD. Still going to proceed with a tub replacement since we have been otherwise happy with this machine, have a matching dryer that works great, and they are a nice stacking set in our small house. Very useful information here – thanks for all of the posts. Brian. Oakville, Canada.

  293. Brian B. Says:

    Follow up on previous post. Part obtained over the counter (~$250 after tax) in Toronto and 2.5 hours later, back to normal. Really a very simple DIY, other than the quite heavy front counterweight that could cause some serious damage if you weren’t prepared for it.

  294. DAVID Says:

    Brian B:

    You made fast work of that tub replacement. Current Canadian pricing on the complete tub assembly at pre-tax $229 makes the repair a bit more tolerable. Unfortunately, Sears U.S. charges almost twice as much for the same part# 134453200!

  295. Brian B Says:

    Won’t take full credit for the quick work. My wife and I did it together, and for anyone considering this job as a DIY, I would definitely recommend that two people handle the tub removal and installation. It is not technically difficult, but the tub is very heavy and awkward. If the tub had been priced as it is in the US, I would not have considered the repair – just wouldn’t have been worth it!

  296. Alicia Says:

    I brought a Kenmore Washer & Dryer (do not remember the model) still under manufactures warranty. The first issue was water in the pedestal drawer. Call service, missed day of work and none one showed up. When you place a service call they take two phone numbers and they don’t use one to call & say they will not be there. Called again, missed work again, service man could not determine why water was in pedestal drawer. One day after service call I did laundry and washer stalled and loud hum, tried turning off and restarting same thing, unplugged it and tried again and it worked. Called service, same scenario, no show, missed work, called again (still using washer in the interim). Now I have water in pedestal drawer and washer stalling with loud hum and awaiting service. I used to be a loyal Sears appliance customer, loved their appliances, this new front loader has changed my opinion of Kenmore and Sears service department. Remember I”m still under the one year warranty which will expire Dec. 20, 2008. I did get the two year warranty because this is my first front loader. Had top loaders for years, no problem, go to this new model and all hell breaks out. Their service department is a joke. Call to complain and get transferred 15 times and just get more frustrated. Wish I could get my money back and go somewhere else. How can they continue to get away with this? People complain and nothing happens.

  297. DAVID Says:

    Brian B:

    How difficult was the transfer of the Door Gasket from the old to new tub? I have heard horror stories about replacing/attaching the gasket retainer spring to the new tub assembly, and the water fill tube attached at the 10 o’clock position on the door gasket. Some have recommended using split, 1″ length pieces of rubber brake line tubing to hold the spring in position during installation, similar to what is provided with the “New Door Gasket Replacement Kit.”

    Also, plastic wire ties have been recommended in place of the original wire clamp used to attach the water fill tube to the gasket. Again, let us know of your experience transfering the door gasket to the fill tube, as well as to the tub.


    If you could provide us with the Model Number of your Kenmore Washer, it would help to identify if this is a Frigidaire or other manufacturer’s product. Even the first 3 digits will help to identify the manufacturer…ie: 417=Frigidaire, 110=Whirlpool, etc.

  298. Alicia Says:

    model# 417-48102701

  299. Brian B Says:

    Hi David,

    I think that there may be variants on the gasket and the retainer spring, but it really was no problem. There is an alignment mark on the door and the gasket to ensure that the water fill tube is lined up. The actual gasket slips over the rim without too much trouble – much easier with two pairs of hands to hold in place and work around the free edge.

    Our retainer spring was in good condition. Reattaching the gasket to the fill tube is a bit of a squeeze, but we managed to even reuse the original spring (compress with one small pair of pliers and then give a locking twist with a second pair!). This is where the cable tie solution has been suggested elsewhere and I can see where this would be an advantage – there is definitely a risk of puncturing the gasket if you aren’t careful.

  300. Brian B Says:

    Correction to previous post. I meant to write that there is are alignment marks on the front face panel of the washer and the gasket to ensure that the fill tube is lined up, not on the door.

  301. Frank G Says:

    Wow, surprised to see all the issues with the washer. Mine is a Frigidaire built Kenmore C29042 purchased in 99. I believe it is very similar or identical to the models described here. No bearings or spider assembly problems. Knocking on wood.. I have been very happy with the washer and stacking dryer as a unit. Have always used liquid detergent (regular non-HE) with the unit, but in lower amounts. Have soft water here, so I wonder if that helps?

    I have encountered a problem with the water drain pump however. It stalled after a extremely muddy load of clothes. Took it apart and cleaned it out, removed impeller, found it gunky, and rinsed it all out. Seemed to work well at first, but it is now squealing. Anyone have a spare they want to send? Vancouver, BC.

  302. Nancy Says:

    I want to thank ‘hethere’ for the very useful comments. How precious you are to contribute them.

    Ratings (on the Sears site) varied widely and many due to specific dislikes of how something worked for them, not machine breakdowns. Like “I don’t like how the door opens from right to left because my hoses are on the right of the dryer and had to be installed that way and it is an inconvenience for me.” ===1 star. DUH! You knew that when you bought it, right? Well maybe not…So I took some of the complaint ratio into consideration for those reasons, as well as others.

    Note that here on this forum there is a wide variance in time that it takes for this bracket to fail. 2 years—7 years ??? There has to be other factors involved with the corrosion of the spider bracket. Detergents or salts in water…??

    So…no ideas in the preventative department except the person way back who was going to paint his new bracket with anti-rust paint???

    The chances to lengthen the life of this bracket right now when it is new would be desirable, don’t you think?

  303. Brian B. Says:


    I agree with your last comment. The only issue is that when the entire tub assembly is purchased as a replacement part, the bearings, hub, tub and housing are pre-assembled. Disassembling to paint the spider or some other preventative means opening the outer tub, pulling out the drum and disengaging the axle from the bearings, which based on my efforts to have a look at the old one, is not simple or easy. I opted to not mess with the new one, in fear of wrecking a factory assembled bearing. Moreover, the solution to paint the aluminum spider only works if you completely disassemble the thing and eliminate the steel-aluminum contact to prevent galvanic corrosion. Anyway, we can only hope to get another 7 years from this one – the replacement parts apparently have some structural improvements that will extend their lives (hopefully!).

  304. DAVID Says:

    And to think this Frigidaire/Kenmore Front-Loader has also been installed in Laundromats, masquerading as a Commercial Duty Wascomat, Models: WE16 and WE17.

    See current Wascomat Model: WE17,
    Link: http://www.wascomat.net/docs/sect02/coin_cwetd16.jsp

    I have a local laundromat using the Frigidaire/Wascomat Model: WE16 or WE17. If available for comment, I’ll ask the business owners/operators if they have replaced many bearings and tubs on these units. These machines have probably been in use for about 2-3 years. Will be interesting to learn how they hold up under brutal, public use, especially that plastic front door frame assembly.

    Lowe’s also sells a coin operated, commercial duty version of the Frigidaire Front-Loader.

  305. Graham Hardie Says:
  306. Graham Hardie Says:

    I have made a similar video.


  307. Brian B. Says:

    Nice video Graham. Precisely same situation here. Replacement part obtained from Sears for my Kenmore is indeed a Fridgidaire part and precisely like yours. $250 CAD. Still a bitter pill, but easier to swallow than $400+.

  308. Donna Says:

    Price has gone up at Sears parts depot in Winnipeg, too. The tub kit is now $229.99 plus tax ($256.50). I called Bain’s appliance ($200 + taxes) and Reliable Parts ($199.80 + taxes).

    Bain’s told me that if I am the original owner of the washing machine (I am) that the tub is under warranty, as long as an authorized technician does the work. I inquired as to the labour cost and was told around $300 to $350 AND that they would require replacement of the bearings as well.

  309. Alicia Says:

    Finally had my long over due service call. The problem was something very simple the serviceman was there 10 minutes. Told him about the loud noise and water in the pedestal drawer, he immediately went to the water pump and there was an under wire (from a bra) in there. He said that will happen again, because when those things come out of the bras they go through the holes in the washer. I do use laundry bags for the under garments, one must have worn open. But all in all, getting service from Sears is a trip. This will be my last large appliance from them.

  310. Jim Says:


    The fins have stayed in place just fine. I recently got a leak that was coming out of the washer and onto the tile (the guys that were supposed to slope the floor toward the drain didn’t do it). It wasn’t enough to worry about and so I’d figured to try one more load.

    The repair was an easy $30 part called the “hose and coin trap.” You should all see the tiny little hole less that 1/8 inch. I could’ve even tried a bicycle tire repair on it. After I’d given up on one of the metal clamps and used a plastic tie. And I only had to take off the front bottom panel.

    I did another load to check for leaks and it was fine but y’all should see how much the hose shakes around and moves a lot because the whole tub does. I still can’t believe it’s held up by those metal springs and shock absorbers.

    It’s sure nice to be able to spend $30 instead of $75 plus $30 plus labor though.

  311. DAVID Says:


    Interesting that you had a problem with the “hose and coin trap.” because when I stripped that scrapped Kenmore unit of many good parts, I debated if I should bother to remove the hose and coin trap. After hearing of your coin trap hose leak, now I am glad I took the extra few minutes to remove the part along with the air hose leading to the fill level pressure switch.

    About all the movement in the hose/coin trap…I had a brand new (bolted to the floor) Dexter Commercial Front Loader (Model WCY2) that leaked through the drain pump’s rear seal, upon installation, due to bad motor bearings, so when I first installed my Frigidaire washer (when new) I removed the lower front panel for the first few wash loads to watch for any leaks and I, too, noticed much shaking and movement of the “hose and coin trap,” and thought it was just a matter of time before that accordion style hose began to leak.

    As for bearing/tub life expectancy, my Dexter Front Loader’s rear bearing failed at 16 years old with daily use; 3 years later the drive shaft broke away from the rear of the rotating porcelain wash basket/cylinder. No spider assembly used on the Dexter, only a porcelain, reinforced tub back plate with the drive shaft screwed directly into threads of the tub. The cost of the Dexter replacement tub made the decision easy to buy a replacement machine. And Frigidaire was ideal for home use with no bolting to the floor.

    Unfortunately, Frigidaire’s premature tub and bearing failure are costly weak points on this machine. Electrolux/Frigidaire should make the right decision and cover tub/bearing failures under an extended warranty program.

    And about that leak…I think you are correct that a tire patch would probably do the trick, at least temporarily.

    Thanks for the follow-up about the fin screws…I may remove those screws in the near future.

  312. DAVID Says:

    Graham Hardie:

    Thank you for documenting, (on youtube), your experience with the Frigidaire Front-Loading Clothes Washer’s Stainless Steel Tub and Spider Assembly.

    Should you have further contact with the Frigidaire call center, please keep us posted on their response and any actions/updates on your complaint.

  313. pat moujabber Says:

    hi, I don’t even know if my comment belongs in this thread, but here goes. I own a Kenmore front load Quietpak4 H3T, purchased in December 2005. Have had no problems until 5 days ago when I heard such a racket and vibration during spin cycle..thought some was trying to force their way into home! Make long story short,, it was the washer. After investigating, found debry under the grey rubber seal(bellow) between the door and the drum. Thought it might be calcium deposit. Tried to finish wash, more noise. At end of was, found more fibrous residue. And amazement, whole drum seal falling apart. Called Sears (thank God I have masterplan coverage). They confirmed whole drum and seal breaking down. Needs a whole front and rear (whatever that is). Cost about $1,000. Asked why they would not replace with new one since I am covered. Technician said they have a cut off price of $1,800 before they do that..anyway, what on earth would make a machine like this break down like that?? I only use liquid HE detergent….
    I am going to sound unpatriotic, but sometimes I wish I could afford the German brands that last forever..
    oh well, a Christmas with loads waiting…

  314. Tenessa Says:

    Pat, I am sorry to inform you that I had to fight Sears for several years, with over $5,000 in repairs before they would consider replacement.It was not until I got a lawyer to send them a letter did they replace my machine. Even though I met their criteria for replacment. I had the same problems as you are desribing several times. They make these machines to only last about 5 years….they design them this way. I wish someone had told me this when I bought mine. I even had my local news out to my house. They did a story becuase they were shocked to see all the repairs. But when they contacted Sears they would no longer run the story. I think they were paid off. What news station would not run this story with the cost of repairs to be soooo high. Good luck

  315. DAVID Says:


    If you buy a German Brand, make sure it is a Miele, as they are known for quality and customer service.

    On the other hand, Bosch full size washer models are built in New Bern, North Carolina, but my personal experience indicates that Bosch is worse than Frigidaire when it comes to overall performance; electronics failures, phantom error codes that stop the washing process and excessive vibration during spin, etc.

    At least the Frigidaire and Kenmore performs well until the tub bearing and spider fails. If or when Frigidaire corrects this design flaw, the Frigidaire/Kenmore will be a very solid, reliable product.

  316. Graham Hardie Says:

    I called Frigidiaire to give them a final chance. I contacted the Electrolux office in Mississauga and pressed extensions until I got a live employee. I requested a P.R. person contact me and explained the on-going troubles I was having. They were very sympathetic and said they would take my information and make certain the right person called me back.

    I received a call the a same day form the Customer Service manger. After explaining my concerns with the engineering they offered a 50% rebate for a new unit. I purchased a new Frigidaire on sale at Leons. In the end the cost will be over $300.00 to me but I will have fresh unit. It may last 3 years of 7 years. I asked what the life expectancy is for these units and she said 10 years.

    Ultimately my hope would be that these companies make products that will stay out of the landfill and keep our planet greener. The savings in energy consumption are not offset by the waste of plastics, electronics and the energy to produce, ship and manufacture disposable machines.

  317. DAVID Says:

    Graham Hardie:

    I am glad you finally spoke to a Frigidaire Customer Service Manager who was able to make a decision to offer you a discounted replacement machine.

    I was a Regional Service Manager for one of the other World known brands (manufacturer who shall remain nameless) and, frankly, I don’t understand how both Frigidaire and Sears have been able to avoid and turn their backs on this obvious problem for so long a period of time; especially when considering that dealers usually hear and learn of these problems directly from their irate customers. Some dealers will stop selling product if the manufacturer does not respond to problems in a responsible, timely manner.

    I can guarantee you that our factory sales representatives would have been thrown out of the dealer’s office and the dealer’s sales people would promise not to sell our products if our service department ignored problems and customers like Frigidaire and Sears.

    Regarding the Green factor…Thank you for stressing the wastefulness that occurs when a machine must be prematurely disposed of when a few, simple design/material changes would have solved the problem long ago.

    Thanks for your follow-up. We all appreciate learning of the end result.

  318. Tony Says:

    My Kenmore front loader is starting to rumble LOUD half way through it`s cycle at the start of one of it`s tumbling washes, then the noise just quits. From what I`ve read I`m in for some repair soon. I have a twenty eight year old Maytag still sitting in my shed which I quit using four years ago when we bought the Kenmore. Appears as though I may have to put the old girl back in use as it still worked fine when I replaced it. The front load does use less detergent and water but man four years life ?

  319. Bill Says:

    I am selling a spider arm bracket only for $49. I had this same problem and acquired two arms (and drums) in the process of the repair. I’m selling the extra: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270324211480.

  320. Summer Says:

    Does anyone have a shaft that they want to sell, in great condition?

  321. Summer Says:

    Wanted to add, we need it for our Frigidaire front loader. The one Bill just posted is just a TINY bit different in some way.

  322. Jim Says:

    I have a Kenmore front loader purchased August of 2007. There is a knocking sound near the end of the final spin cycle. It looks like, from what I read here, is that a bearing may be going. There is no rocking to the drum so I am thinking the spider arm is ok. I won’t be able to tear the thing apart for a week or so. But before I do, is this the begining signs of the failure in the video at the top? It is a HE2 washer using liquid All (not the HE stuff, but will switch if that will make a difference)

  323. Eric Says:

    Mine made it just past 5 years, then it started sounding like I had a 747 taking off in my laundry room. These machines really are junk. I have already replaced the water metering valve job because it was leaking, now this? Just returned from my local Sears store to discuss my problems with a sales associate who knew absoutely nothing about these issues (or more than likely was told to keep their mouth shut).
    I’m temped to yard this turd out of my laundry room and drop it in their parking lot.

  324. reader Says:

    I HAVE HAD TWO FRONT LOADER THAT WENT DOWN BECAUSE OF THE CHEAP SPIDER ARMS. Have repaired both myself then decided to go back to a top loader. It’s not worth the trouble until the spider arms are made from steele as they should have been. There is too heavy a load put on those three arms and it is a design made to break so that sears or whoever can get more money from parts. Kind of the same thing when you buy a inkjet printer at a good price but the ink to use it is as costly as the machine itself. Does that ring a bell with anyone? home appliances are made to break nowdays.

  325. Adam Says:

    “The two springs that suspend the plastic tub cut through the eyelets on the tub” – this same thing happened to me on a front-load frigidaire, 3 years young. I opened up the washer and diagnosed the problem myself… I realized quickly that it wasn’t going to be a cheap repair – whole tub would need replacement – I ended up fashioning a hook out of a coat hanger, and re-attaching the spring to the tub. It took a fair bit of fiddly work, but it seems to be holding. Clearly this is a design flaw in the tub itself and a recall should be issued by frigidaire.

  326. Ben Sibiski Says:

    Just Dismantled my 4.75 yr old Kenmore HE3 washer after three loads of loud rapping. My wife thought it was unbalanced loads, but after researching the web & reading your informative articles, I find myself in the same predicament as the other kenmore owners. Broken spider bracket arms. There are pieces missing in mine that MUST have disintergrated. I am a welder/mechanic by trade, and this deterioration can only be from faulty metal casting. I’m going to try taking the failed part to Sears parts outlet. I’ll keep you posted!

    Ben from Baltimore

  327. Jeff - London Says:

    My Frigidaire version of the same machine self destructed yesterday. Some brief research online suggested the cause, and sure enough when I disassembled the entire unit this morning and split the case on the outer tub I was not surprised in the least to find two of the three spider arms fractured. Only 1 arm left intact and ridiculous corrosion consuming the entire spider arm assembly.

    I was quoted $248 Canadian for a replacement inner basket/ spider assembly, but am reluctant to throw away good money after bad. Remarkable how the inner basket is warranted for 25 years, yet it’s integral spider bracket is not. If the warranty is independent of one another, it should be reasonable to expect that they can be purchased separately. Convenient for Frigidaire and the parts industry, isn’t it?

    I negotiated a nice deal on a new Whirlpool 4.0 cu.ft. Duet today. Hope it does not have aluminum spider arms!!!!


  328. Ben from Baltimore Says:

    Had the same Catastrophic failure to my Kenmore Elite HE3 after only 4 1/2 years of service. Spider arm disintergration and Outer Tub damage. After taking to Sears and reading these posts, I’ve opted to scrap the $1000 P.O.S., and buy a new Whirlpool Toploader for $400. After being jerked around by Sears, I’m definitely not giving them any more business. I know the machine is made by another company, but the fact they won’t fix it under warranty and there is no Recall or service bulliten about this problem really frustrates me. Corporate greed or ignorance, I don’t know which is at fault here, but I feel Sears may be going the way of Montgomery Wards!!!

  329. Tony Says:

    Just a thought, before these washers destruct, or if replacing with a new spider arm, would it work to have the spider arms sprayed or coated with an automotive clear coat, at least to protect it from any water or detergent damage ? Seems to me like it would prolong the life of the spider arm at least.

  330. Ben from Baltimore Says:

    Powder coating, rustproofing, or using stamped stainless as the material will probably improve longevity, if done at the factory. This seems like a case of planned obsolesance to me????

  331. Lou Says:

    Most first experience with Frigidaire products was 25 years ago when we bought a Frigidaire refrigerator. What a piece of junk that was.

    Now we have a front loading Kenmore washer which we find was made by Frigidaire. The bearing is in the process of going although we’ve apparently been lucky and got 8 years of washing out of it.

    Our solution is identical to our previous Frigidaire solution: scrap it. Why spend money repairing a poorly designed piece of junk?

    I wonder if Frigidaire will be asking for a piece of the “bail-out” money? LOL

  332. Deb Says:

    Interesting blog considering a Sears repairman just left telling me the spider arm was broken due to my use of Oxy-CLean! He said the corrosion that broke the arm was due to oxidation of the aluminum arm as a result of my using this particular product. ANd yes, the same as everyone else, a $75 examiniation fee and a estimate of an additional $483 to repair with a 90 day warranty. Of course I could also purchase an extended warranty for one year @ $110 for all parts and labor. I think we are going to look into a top load cheap model assuming that America’s best is only made to last 2-3 years; why repair when you can replace. Those were the days when we paid to repair quality, now it’s a throw away society. Amen!

  333. mehere Says:

    Just a reminder:

    If you are just posting a complaint to this board, do not call it a day and go buy something else.

    What you need to do is file a complaint with Sears or whomever you bought the defective machine from – verbal or better yet in written form. Getting some one on the phone or email is pretty easy. Make it known to these people that you will file a complaint with the Better Business and Federal Trade Commission. If you do not follow through you are doing yourself and others a disservice.

    Some likely outcomes might be – a hefty rebate on your faulty machine (cash in pocket) rather than possibly a percentage off the purchase of a new unit.

    I can not divulge the terms and conditions of my settlement but I was more than pleased. It did take threats of doing the actions I mentioned and even going to the extent of filing with both agencies. Within a week the manufacturer I dealt with was more than willing to settle.

    So if your not happy with the outcome of your situation, then you have no one to blame but your self. Companies will settle if you push the point.

    The BBB and FTC can be accessed online….google it.

  334. Ben from Baltimore Says:

    Thanks Mehere for the advice.

    Both myself & Wife work & cannot take a day off to have a repairman come by and tell me what I already discovered and charge me $80 to do it.

    I create alot of dirty laudry, working for a Laudry detergent manufacturer as a pipefitter/welder. That’s right, we make the laundry detergent!

    I cannot sit around and wait for Sears to send a guy over to give me an estimate, then haggle over who is going to pay for the repair blah, blah, blah. I NEED my clothes washed!

    The cheapest I could get the repair done, replacing the spider bracket myself, was $173 for just the Basket assembly & Spider bracket. This wouldn’t have cured the shredding of the front outer tub, but the washer would have worked.

    If you’re going to DIY, be sure to check the pump strainer at the bottom of the washer. That’s where the missing spider bracket pieces are, clogging up the pump! That’s probably another contributing factor to the detergent build up & corrosion of the spider arm.

    The fact that the front boot was blackened & Moldy, the inner tub was moldy & smelly, and the washer in general was constructed rather cheesily, led me to purchase a new top loader & cut my losses. This is a forum for experience with Appliances, correct?

    I purchased another Whirlpool product, manufacturer of the last machine I own, I believe. I bought the front load on advise from a friend & I’m anxious to see how his HE3 Elite will fare! Judging from these posts and other internet sites, Failure is inevitable! I’m just trying to get the word out to others.


  335. Bill Says:

    I am selling a new spider arm on Ebay right now. Auction ends tonight. Save yourself a lot of money!


  336. DAVID Says:


    Your Ebay listing states that your Kenmore Washer is Model 110.45862400.

    According to Appliance Journal’s entry in this blog, all Kenmore Washer Models starting with 110 are manufactured by Whirlpool. Are you sure your Ebay listed Whirlpool spider arm will fit the majority of Frigidaire built Kenmore models discussed on this site?

  337. Dave Robb Says:

    Kenmore Front Loader Bearing Repair Tips.

    - It’ not a bad job but takes a little time.

    - I removed everything from the drum first like motor, water lines, shocks ( Squeeze the tabs on the end of the pins for removal.) Disconnect wiring harness’s on motor and panel. Remove top. ( 4 screws on back of panel and then slide forward to remove.) Remove gasket from door opening. (Carefully roll the gasket away from the body and you’ll find that it is spot glued to hold it in place so I used a chisel to scrape it away from the frame and at the same time not to tear the gasket.)
    - After everything is removed from the drum and the only thing that’s holding it up is the springs roll it over on it’s left side facing the washer and remove the springs. Slowly remove the drum and concrete (Hitec). from the frame.
    - Next separate the tub halves by removing the many screws holding it together, theres a ton of them. If it makes it apart without ruining the gasket you can probably reuse it. Make sure you see how the gasket lays in the housing. On mine there was a red dot which lined up with a space in the channel on the tub to keep the splice above the water level, put back the same way. I also washed the gasket in hot water to remove the scale and the channel on the tubs to. The hot water will also help to expand the gasket which will help to seal when replaced.
    - Now that it’s apart go ahead and hammer on the end of the drum shaft to remove. (pulley off, slowly rock pulley back and fourth while at the same time pulling, it will come off ). Use something betwen the shaft and your hammer so you don’t ruin the end of the shaft.
    - Then remove drum from spider arm. Pry gently between arm and barrel preferably laying a piece of wood across barrel so not to dent.
    -Remove bearing from housing by using a long puch or pipe tapping carefully……it takes a few blows to knock them out.
    - I went to a Bearing store to buy new bearings and along with the bearings I got some good advice. These are a common type bearing, usually in stock. Go with a sealed bearing verses shielded…way better and there also Japanese made verses Chinese. I paid $35 for the and $25 for the bearings The seal they didn’t stock but the guy at the counter looked at it and seen that it was grease filled and said he would just clean the seal and regrease it. The grease is what makes the seal plus you are now using a sealed bearing instead of a shielded one so it’s not quite as critical.
    - Clean up the housing to recieve the new bearings and tap them in using the old ones as between the hammer and the new bearing. Install seal.

    - Reattach drum to spider shaft, slide shaft back into drum and reassemble. You might use a longer bolt and some spacers to pull shaft back into drum, working it back into place being you can’t beat on it.

    - This was a experimental process and after reading all the helpful advice on this site while throwing in my own 2-bits by going with the better bearings. If I would have ruined something when disassembling I probably would of went the Sears route with the 1/2 drum assembly.

    Cheers Dave

  338. DAVID Says:

    Dave Robb:

    Thanks for your bearing replacement procedure and helpful tips.

    It appears you didn’t find it necessary to replace the old spider arm. Could you please tell us the age and condition of your original spider arm and if you re-used the original arm rather than replacing with new.

    Also, please give us the part numbers and manufacturer for those Sealed Bearings.

    And please elaborate on this line from your entry, as the dollar figures and what they apply to is confusing: ” I paid $35 for the (?) and $25 for the bearings.”

    Again, thanks for sharing your experience with all of us!

  339. Dave Robb Says:

    Hi David: The bearings are made by Nachi-Fujikosho-Quest, Bearing #’s are 6307-2NSE9(inner) and 6306-2NSE9. The price corresponds to the inner bearing which is the largest hence $35 outer is $25. I purchased them at Kaman bearing in Everett, WA. 425-259-5585. I just looked up bearings in the yellow pages and that was the closest place and they just cross referenced the #’s on the Kenmore (chinese) bearings. I probably didn’t need to replace the outer one but ruined it taking it apart. Probably any Bearing store will have quality bearings,they usually sell to industry most of the time and once in awhile a DIY walks in the door.
    I didn’t replace the spider arm being I was mostly concerned with the bearings and hadn’t read far enough in this forum : ). The washer was about 7 years old. But mine was a little pitted but fine though I didn’t look at it real hard, it works and if I don’t over load the machine it should last awhile and where do you stop when replacing parts on these things and the next time I have to work on this it should go alot faster being the learning curve will be shorter. I can see one issue with powder detergents in that it gets compacted in the webbed part of the casting where the spider arms connect which might help it corrode by holding moisture and water, never dry’s out. Get’s moldy to.I don’t know if I mentioned it in the above but I think if the door was left open when not in use the drum would have a chance to dry out and you would eliminate the mold problem and it would probably help with corrosion issue to.
    I didn’t mention in the above about removing the concrete once the drum is removed before separating the 1/2′s and removing the door gasket which is also connected to the soap dispenser and is fastened with a twisted wire. Just untwist this wire the right way and you can probably reuse it.

    Cheers Dave

  340. Tony Says:

    I also leave the door open as to keep the inside dry and aired out, makes sense. Sister inlaw owns the Maytag pair that has the slanted front loaders, they really smell from musty – moldy stagnant water.

  341. DAVID Says:

    Dave Robb:

    Thanks for the update on the bearing part numbers and additional details about the procedure for repair.

    Please view the youtube video at the top of this blog/discussion. Note the owner has the removed tub intact, complete with door gasket and detergent dispenser still attached. In your experience removing the tub assembly, do you think it is possible to remove the components attached/together as shown in the video? If yes, this would help eliminate the need to reattach the door gasket to the outer/plastic tub, along with water inlet tube reconnection. Additionally, with the detergent dispenser hose still attached to the plastic tub, it would seem to help eliminate some unnecessary reconnection of the dispenser hose to the tub. Let us know if you think everything can be removed together as shown in the video.

    Again, thanks for sharing your experience with all of us!

  342. Dave Robb Says:

    Yes you could do it this way but I don’t know if it would weaken the frame assembly for reassembling being the backs off to. It seems like you would need some kind of x-bracing then. It looks like he had this all apart to shoot the video and I don’t know if he put it together again.
    I would leave the gasket attached to the tub being if it’s not leaking now it probably won’t be after you put it back together. But if you remove the tub gasket from the outer shell I’m guessing the gasket would have to take a new seat, and it might not leak.
    On the door gasket or outer tub gasket. I didn’t recement it to the door frame and it seems to work fine. It interlocks with the frame and I didn’t see a reason to glue it being the door just compress’s against it for a seal.
    It looks like to on the video the detergent got the best of the spider arm and if your arms look as bad as the ones in the video I would probably replace them. He mentions the difference in metals but I would probably go with the detergent trapped in the casting being you would probably get the most of the electrolisis where the arms contact the drum.

    Cheers Dave

  343. Graham Hardie Says:

    I took the unit apart recently. You can not remove the 20+ bolts holding the tow outer tubs together unless you remove the whole tub assembly from the case. This includes the door gasket.

    Here is a video showing the dismantle. I didn’t reassemble because Electrolux offered 50% rebate on a new unit after repeated calls. I will update the video once I receive the check.


    I hope this helps.

  344. DAVID Says:

    Dave Robb:

    I think you’ll be OK with the no cement on the outer door gasket because the old Westinghouse LT570′s and LT870′s front-loaders used no cement and only relied on the gasket being captured by the metal channel of the door opening on the front cabinet panel.

    With the increase in noticeable noise during spin, I’m getting my replacement bearings together and plan on replacing them before a major breakdown where ceased bearings could damage the spider/tub shaft due to abrasion of the shaft.

    As always, thanks for your response! Soon, everyone will become expert at bearing and tub replacements on their Frigidaire built front-load washers…Not something Frigidaire should be too proud of!

  345. DAVID Says:

    Graham Hardie:

    In the first video at top of this blog, it appears the owner removed the tub with the gasket still attached to the outer/plastic tub? He only removed the gasket from the front cabinet panel. Is it possible to remove the tub with the door gasket still attached to the outer tub, as shown in the first video?

  346. James Joyce Says:

    Dave Yes……… Use a razor blade to strip rubber boot glued to front panel. Second, the water filler tub is secured to rubber boot by clip. Remove clip from boot surrounding filler tube and be sure not to cut into rubber boot too much when using razor blade to free boot at glue point. If gasket is left seated in rear shell reuse it. It will not leak. A bead of silicone can be used to insure watertightness if one feels the gasket has been compromised. I never re glued my boot to the front panel. It has not leaked at all. If you choose not to re glue boot to panel the only way it will come apart is if the spider bracket breaks and or shock absorbers are defective. In short if the machine spins without violent vibration an unglued boot will be secured by a closed and locked door! This scam continues and consumers continue to be victimized!

  347. Susan Goding Says:

    I have a Sears front loader. I bought it about 6 years ago and have only used HE liquid soap. About 2 years ago the mother board went out at around $160. Fortunately it is an easy 15 minute part exchange. The tub has been leaking at the seal for probably 3 or 4 years, my floor is concrete and has a drain so I have been able to ignore it. Two weeks ago apparently the spider broke. I will fix it since the motor seems to be going strong.

    I paid extra for a 3 year warranty, ha ha.

    Thank goodness for the internet and all the people who have posted video and advice. You have saved me many times.

  348. Richard P Says:

    I was having problems with My front load washer and was looking for a manual on how to take apart this washer when I ran into this website. After viewing this video I took apart my machine and found the exact same problem as everyone else. I did catch it in time before the screws went through the plastic outer drum, but the spider was cracked on all three legs and badly corroded. The bearings feel fine, but due to the made in china on the bearing I am replacing them with bearing from a local bearing supplier for $19.00 each. I am still debating on the seal, but I will see if the supplier can get that as well. Sears has gave me the cost of $199.99 and a $20.00 delivery + taxes. I Think that painting the new spider when it comes in is a good idea. I am also thinking of powder coating at one of the suppliers at my work to see if that makes it last longer. I don’t want to have to keep taking this apart every 4 years.

  349. Julie Says:

    I purchased a kenmore front load washer in richmond, ky 11-28-01. It
    gave out in May of 2006. The repariman told me the motherboard was defective and I would have to replace the board. The quote he gave me was $400. I was very disgusted! I refused to pay this much when I could buy a new top load for less than this. After reading the blogs, I suspect the motherboard wasn’t the only problem. I thought the washer was unbalanced on its last load and it damaged the motherboard. I now think I had the same problems with the spider arms.

    Less than a year later, I decided to purchase another front load. I liked the fact that the front load used less water and it seemed to reduce the wear on my clothing. Also, we had started building a house and I wanted to be able the stack my washer and dryer. I decided to buy the same Kenmore model so I would not have to buy another dryer. I purchased it 4-9-07. Guess what! Yes, you got it. It gave out yesterday. Now it won’t fill with water. I wonder what is really wrong with it. It did even last 2 years this time.

    I called the Sears store where I purchased the washer. They gave me the number of One Source. They offered $150 off the service call and labor and $100 off the part. I was not happy with this. I told them I knew about all the problems with this model and I wanted Sears to replace my washer. They in turn give me the phone number for National Customer Relations Retail–owned by Sears. They told me they couldn’t do anymore than One Source. This whole situation is ridiculous.

  350. alison Says:

    hello and thanks for all the helpful tips from everyone regarding the kenmore frontload washers. I have just replaced the outer tub assembly (bearings) and the inner tub,spider armm and shaft on mine after 5 years of trouble free washing, learned alot and found video most helpful. Anyway my problem now that its all reassembled is that the washer works and will go into high final speed spin ONLY when it hasn’t any clothes in! If there is a load (not a big load) it just doesn’t go into the high spin out at the end and so clothes are dripping wet! Any ideas or anyone had a similiar problem? I’ve spent alot of time and $300 on parts but still haven’t a functioning washer. please help!

  351. Ben Sibiski Says:

    Did you clean out the pump strainer while you had the washer apart?

  352. Dave Robb Says:

    It could be a slipping belt, grease on the pulley etc. So thats why it runs without a load. I’m just wing’s it being I haven’t dealt with this issue yet. A loose wire which doesn’t seem right being it does work with no load.
    I had kind of the same trouble with mine after I reassembled it and it was a loose connection on the water pump. All I did was move the connector around abit and then it would drain again. The wire got bumped or something.
    Out of these suggestions I would probably go with the slipping belt.

    Good luck Dave

  353. Ben Says:

    Any body need spare parts for a Kenmore Elite HE3 washer can find them on eBay under Kenmore HE3 search. Hope this helps.

  354. Tony Says:

    Now, after reading all of this, has anyone purchased a new appliance instead of repairing the old one, and if so, what front loading washer have you/they purchased that isn`t having the same trouble now.

  355. DEBORAH & DAVID Says:





  356. gary Says:

    our kenmore front loader is 5years old and the bearings are gone which caused the packing grease to leak into the tub and stain our clothes with grease streaks. it cost us 75.00 for sears to come out and tell us it would cost 550.00 to repair.. guess what? no more kenmore anyone know anything about boschor samsung?

  357. SvcMgr Says:


    As a past Regional Service Manager for Bosch, (B/S/H/ Home Appliances Corporation) I can tell you we had many service problems with Spin Cycle Vibration, due to what was believed to be inadequate suspension for wooden floors. Never install the Bosch on a wooden flooring structure, unless the floor is of a super strong, reinforced design, see installation manual for details.

    Additionally, the Bosch machines would shut down and display error
    codes, due to minor oversudsing, as they are very sensitive to
    detergent type and amount used. HE detergent types are recommended, powder or liquid.

    When shopping and examining dealer display Bosch models, please note
    the Bosch clumsy door that commonly goes out of alignment with the door catch/lock mechanism. And the door is very heavy, resulting in the door sagging, which causes the misaligned door to snag/stick to the rubber door gasket. And, when the washer is off, the door must remain fully open or closed; it will not stay partially open for airing, due to the weight and angle of the door.

  358. Rhonda Says:

    We bougt our front load washer 6 years ago and on Saturday it just exploded (that’s the best way I can discribe the sound). My husband opened the bottom part of the machine and laying in the bottom is what looks like a curved brick. I guessing by what I’m reading on this blog and others this machine is toast. I’m just wondering if anybody else has had the brick fall out and what is it’s purpose?

  359. Chris from Ajax Says:

    Rhonda…it just sounds like the counterweight has slipped. Is there any evidence of damage to the tub (ie. holes, water on the floor)? You may be able to simply lift the counterweight (the curved brick) back into place and tighten the bolts that hold it in place…

    The other question would be is there any knocking or violent shaking when the washer is running (and everything is in place)?

  360. Tim Says:

    I am so glad I bought a Staber horizontal axis washer. The company was started by an appliance repair man out in Ohio, who got tired of fixing all the junk that is out there. I’ve had quite a few calls over the last year to fix the Kenmore machine, and I have begun to tell them it’s just not worth it.

  361. Torch Rivera Says:

    Just be wary, our kenmore 100 washer, exploded! Literally it exploded. Sounded like a truck crashed.

  362. Ben Sibiski Says:

    Ours did the same! Drum came aprt! Remaining parts are for sale on eBay under Kenmore Elite, HE3! ;-)

  363. Justin Says:

    Ours has the clunking problem. I checked the shocks. They seem to be fine.

    I work in the auto body business. If the spider arms are bustified in the back, which surely they must be, I’m wondering if I could panel bond or JBWeld ™ them back together. Granted those materials are generally meant for static repairs (qtr panels which have been adhesively bonded [honda, others]), I wonder how long it would hold up.

    Eh well, I was stupid enough to pay a repair man to come out and take a look without checking ye’ole interknot. Guess we’ll run out the one we have and get another when it expires completely.

    Best Regards,

  364. Ben Sibiski Says:

    If you catch it early enough, you can salvage the Outer Drum. If you continue to run the washer with the cracked brackets, it will start leaking on the floor after it etches the plastic outer drum! The Spider bracket is either white metal or aluminum.I’m guessing Galvanic corrosion contributing to the extensive corrosion, with the bracket arms being Aluminum/pot metal, and the inner drum Stainless. Make sure the pump strainer is clean. That’s where all the broken metal pieces end up! Hope this helps.:-\

  365. Marty Says:

    I have one of the Whirlpool version HE3 110.44832200 purchased in mid-2003. A couple months ago it threw a belt. It also squeaks and groans a lot more than it used to. I replaced the belt (twice) now, and it just threw it again. The large pulley that turns the drum appears to loosen easily causing it to throw the belt, and my attempts at tightening it seem to only last a couple weeks. Are the bearings shot? Is fixing this feasible, or do I avoid the $$$ repair bills and buy a new machine (not a Kenmore)?

  366. KH Says:


    Kenmore front loader-417
    Feb.2005 – Feb.2009
    4 yrs. young-Died uexpectantly this week due to premature spider bracket failer.

    $115.00 for a tech to tell me that it would cost
    $750.00 to fix a
    $600.00 appliance.Wish I knew about this site B-4 I bought that piece of $#!+ from Sears. I thought Sears was known for their quality products and customer service but I guess times have changed.
    …AND WHERE’S THE JUSTICE???? How many complaints have to be cast before some kind of national legal action takes place to stop them from ripping off consumers since they (sears/kenmore)) don’t have the ethics to step up and come clean about the faulty products they are pushing???

  367. Peter Says:

    Drum assembly, spin basket
    Number:131618500 $200.99 In stock
    Quantity Add To Cart


  368. Peter Says:

    Hi also I’ve notice a difference since my town change to a new well everything gets eaten through. First it was my tolet flush bar rusted. need to spend 1,000.00s to get water filter to stop this problem…See with changes over time know one knows how good thing were before if this makes any sence…

  369. James Says:

    Here is somthing all wirlpool/kenmore elete he washing machine owners have been hoping for. I urge all present and previous owners to fill out. I have the elete he3 that has a foul odor and does not complete wash cycle error code e6.

  370. Tamara A Says:

    And to think, I was just looking for help with my GE Twenty-Eight Hundred dishwasher when I found the comments about Kenmore front-loaders! As you folks have all had these experiences and I have not yet, I would like to learn from you in hopes I can delay what sounds to be the inevitable. I purchased an HE4t in December 05 and so far have had no problems, however I will print the above blog for future reference. I was wondering if any of you routinely ran the monthly maintenance cycle and, if so, did it help prolong the life of the washer? The factory recommendation is that once a month bleach is run through a special cycle to keep the machine clean. I am assuming this would help with some of the mold problems I have read about (I keep the door open after each use to facilitate drying of the machine). I don’t know what affect the bleach would have on the spider arms, if any. Any thoughts on this? I have also only used HE liquid detergents. The HE4t seems to be a later model than most mentioned above; has anyone had the same bearing and spider arm experiences with the HE4t?
    Thanks for any info…

    TJ, Flagstaff, AZ

  371. Steve Says:

    The spider failure is due to corrosion. However what actually happens is that the seal between the tub and the bearing starts leaking. This causes the water to get into the bearing which has steel balls. The balls start corroding and when they corrode, they flatten which causes the loud thump thump at high speed spins. The water also gets on the spider which causes it to corrode as well. The real weakness with these washers is the seal.

  372. Gayle Weber Says:

    Bought Kenmore front loader model 417.42042100 in July 2002 for $754.34 inc tax. about 3 years later had to replace a circuit board which a friend got for us for $220 and installed. Machine kept getting louder and louder on final spin. In manual it says it is normal to be loud so i kept using. Yesterday it spun for the last time and I dread telling my husband who tries to fix what he can, because he will tear it apart and be swearing at me for buying this machine in the first place. He will probably want to go back to top loader. Think a machine should last longer than 7 years when i only do laundry for two people.

  373. Jim Says:

    Well I have a kenmore front end washer model 417.29042991 the other night while doing a load we thought a truck was driving threw the house. The noise it was making was unbelievable. During my inspection I found a piece of the outer shell on the bottom of the washer. On the back side at the 10 oclock postion a piece of the shell blew out. We had this about 8-9 years. With 5 in the house it does see alot of use.Thinking I can epoxy it and get some more use out of it, I did and it only lasted for 2 loads before the noise came back and broke in same spot. Went to a sears outlet store and bought what looked like the same one only a different model # (at least the dryer will fit on top)for $465.00. We figured they only make these to last less then 10 years then throw them away anyways , so why pay more. After seeing the above video I’m going to tear this one apart and will post my findings.

  374. Andrew from Ottawa Says:

    First off, great information on this page! Two nights ago our 6 year old Kenmore HE3t (Model # 110.42922200) started making the loud thumping noise during a “fast” spin cycle. Tore into the machine last night (using information on this page) and managed to dissemble the unit in a few hours; as expected the spider arm was broken (in 2 places). The bearings/shaft look okay, but the front tub is gouged and missing pieces.

    Anyways, as been noted several times on this page a Sears technician will quote a ridiculous price to repair, and ordering parts from Sears is also very expensive.

    In a message from “Chris from Ajax” (and confirmed by others) that it’s possible to order a “tub kit” from Sears that supposed to be available only for techs. The quoted price is only $152.99! Great. Does anyone know, or can help me figure out, the part number for the “tub kit” for a HE3t 110.42922200? From what I understand, the part/item number of 26 970134453200 provided by Chris is for a model #417.xxx Thanks in advance.

  375. Graham Says:

    I received the check to cover 50% of the purchase of a new Frigidaire (Electrolux) product of similar style. I have now spend $1200.00 for a (2) washing machines that will hopeful last a total of 12 years. Still not impressed with the construction and expect the problems will occur with this unit too. By that time I may move to a different (cheapest) style and dispose of after it dies. Still not the greenest solution but economical the right one for me.


  376. Jim Says:

    I’ve torn apart my old washer, only to find the spider arm (one) was broken at the center. It looked like 2 small pieces about the size of a nickle were missing. I think thats what caused the damage to the shell. The loud thunder noise was when the tub was spinning at its fastest speed the broken arm was hitting the back of the shell. It’s not smooth back there I saw worn marks. For the screws that stick out from the tub and ware grooves into the tub they are the screws that hold those plastic arms inside the tub. If they would use 1/4 or 3/8″ shorter screws the problem is solved. Christ I’m an electrcian and can figure that out. But if they did that then people wouldn’t have to repair it. Maybe when you buy a new washer take out these screws and go buy shorter ones, do it yourself.If I saw these comments before I went and bought a replacement I wouldn’t have bought the same one, at least I have parts If I ever need them. Remember don.t say you’ll never buy a kenmore again before you research. When companys go out of business or are bought out there might be only a few manufacturers that build the same junk only to put a different name tag on them. Oh well hopefully we can get 6-7 years on this one.

  377. Jennifer Says:

    My GE/Kenmore/Frigidaire/Elctrolux front loader spider arms just gave up the ghost after 8 years of service. I guess I’m one of the lucky ones. In researching my options, I came across a Danby front load washer. Anyone have info on these? Are the just a re-badged GE/Kenmore/Frigidaire/Elctrolux machine that will have the same spider arm bearing issue?

  378. marek Says:

    I have just purchased an affinity frigidaire front load washer model atf6700fe. Does anyone out there know if that particular model is built with a stainless steel drum connected to aluminum spider arms like the kenmore in the video?(Same question for the other models in the affinity 7000-8000 series?) Would it be worth while calling electrolux to find out? Is there a website with that kind of detailed specs?

  379. Andrew from Ottawa Says:

    Just wondering if anyone has been successful in convincing a Sears technician (or a customer service representative/supervisor) that a failed spider bracket (due to corrosion) is covered under the lifetime warranty of the stainless steel drum?

    Given that the spider bracket part cannot be purchased separately, i.e. only the stainless steel drum, which includes the spider bracket, can be purchased at the cost of Cdn $468.99, it stands to reason that the entire drum assembly will be provided free of charge due to the failure of the spider bracket. At least this seems like a logicial to argument me, but has anyone been successful in using this argument to secure a drum assembly under warranty?

  380. James Says:

    Here is the response to the link i posted on the class action suit on the elete h2 and h3 washing machines.

    Dear Mr. McShane:

    Thank you for your interest in pursuing a lawsuit against Sears relating to the Kenmore HE4t and HE3t Washing Machines. This lawsuit is currently being handled by the law firm of Seeger Weiss, LLP. Sheller, P.C. is co-counsel on the case. Your inquiry submission will be forwarded to Seeger Weiss, and you will be contacted by a Seeger Weiss representative shortly.

    Once again, thank you for your interest. Any questions may be directed to Jonathan Shub at jshub@seegerweiss.com.

    Ellie Cooper Arend on behalf of

    Brian J. McCormick, Jr., Esquire


    1528 Walnut Street, 3rd Floor

    Philadelphia, PA 19102

    215. 790.7300

  381. Jeff Says:

    Lots of complaints on here about the frigidaire and broken supports. I do agree that the spider assembly is a weak link in the washer but also believe that sales is also at fault here. Customers are told they can stuff these full and that is just not the case. These machines are at the lower end of the spectrum of front load washers and are priced accordingly. I am a servicer and constantly come across these front load washers and many of them are used hard (stuffed to the hilt with clothes and the wrong detergent being used). These are not commercial machines folks and cant be used like one. And just because you paid more does not mean it will last longer. Use of a non he detergent and untreated well water does have an effect on these machines. If you don’t believe me throw 3-4 towels in the washer with no soap and start a cycle and watch the suds.

  382. Dave Says:

    Good comment Jeff but I don’t think people like to here that. Mine is 7 years old and I’ve had no Spider arm issues Just the bearings. I got it with noisy bearings from my sister and she lives in the city so that kind of goes with the well water issue effecting the spider arms.


  383. Aaron Says:

    Just wanted to add my thanks to the list here as I would not have been able to attempt the repair of our Kenmore 417.x without the guidance and knowledge from this community! At almost 5 years to the day from mfg, our washer suffered from the noise and brown residue symptoms of bearing gone bad. We live in SF bay area where water quality is prob best in the world and have been faithful users of liquid he deterg, but the design of this washer is fundamentally flawed. After replacing the inner bearing with a quality SKF unit ($42) and new seal ($6), as well as new shocks (plastic connections cracked – $45), the washer is back to near silent operation. :) I’m hoping the spider asmbl will hold out for another couple years (no cracks, but heavy pitting/corrosion w/in the “web” of inner asmbl). I recently lost my job, so had the time and needed to save the money!!! THANK YOU!

  384. Jake Says:

    I hope I can help someone. I just went through the broken spindle problem on our 2002 kenmore 41742042100 washer. We never had a service agreement but I called sears and asked if I could get one. They said I could. They asked if it was in running condition. I said it was. (it was but made a hell of racket) They asked when we bought it. I didn’t tell them but we bought it, almost new, off ebay so I just made up a date. They asked how many years agreement we wanted. I took the one year for $117. They told me the service agreement included a yearly technician checkup. I asked when we could schedule the technician visit. They said we can do that right now. They checked their schedule and said someone could stop by tomorrow. A technician came the next day and said it needs rebuilt. He ordered the parts (also a new pump which wasn’t needed but they left it here when they rebuilt the washer). The parts were delivered to our house a week before the technician scheduled the rebuild. Two technicians came when they said they would and about an hour later it was fixed. A lot easier then I expected. The only thing I regret is not seeing this post earlier. I would have taken the new drum apart and painted the spindle as mentioned in an earlier post.

  385. Megan Says:

    Well, I too have a spider bracket casualty. I am so upset, as I bought my HE 3 in the spring of 2005, expecting a machine to at least last me more than 4 years. I have only used HE detergent that is sold at SEARS! The person who came to repair (not affiliated with Sears) told me to run as fast as I could away from the front load washers. She says they have numerous problems and are very expensive to fix, she mentioned that if I really want to go and spend $1200, just to buy two top loaders. I will not fix this machine to the tune of $400 – but my question, can I sell the parts on ebay? Should I document my washer in hopes of a class action suit? What are others doing with their old washers? Oh, and the repair person told me to buy a low end washer, no digital, only knobs. She says in the long run, less problems.
    Also, who can I write letters of complaints to?

  386. Tamara A Says:

    Hi Megan,

    Refer to James’ post of March 23rd 2009 @ 4:43pm. He mentions a class action lawsuit and gives an email address for the attorney handling the matter. Your news does not bode well for me – my HE4t was purchased in December 2005, has seen light loads for only two people, and I have used only HE detergent. In addition I have run the maintenance cycles as instructed in the manual. It’s working still, but has started to make thumping noises. I’m worried! Thanks to all of you who have provided good information. By the way, has anyone had a problem with the HE4t? I haven’t seen it mentioned yet…
    I did write to the attorney to ask if the HE4t is included in the class action suit. That was a couple of days ago but I haven’t received a reply yet.

  387. Steve Riley Says:

    Amazing what you can find with a little Googling…add me to the growing list of owners of these infernal machines. Mine’s the Frigidaire model, got it about seven years ago and it started thumping two months ago — right on schedule, it would appear. Knowing that the basket had a 25-year warranty, I called the Frigidaire customer service number. Maybe I could get them to send me a basket (with attached spider arm) for free!

    First I had to describe the problem to the rep. Then I reminded her of the warranty and asked if they would send me the part. She said she can’t do that — an “authorized service technician” has to diagnose the malfunction and install the part. I said that I’m perfectly capable of doing both those things myself, and offered to show her how well-documented this failure is. She refused to send the part. I asked for a supervisor. She said no supervisor would be able send the part. I asked for someone who could send me the part — and offered that I’d be happy to include the Washington State attorney general’s office in my request. She asked me to hold for a while. Twenty minutes later she came back on the line and agreed to send me the part “as a one-time good will gesture.” (I really had to strive not to burst out in laughter at that one.) But then she couldn’t find the part number in the database — uh oh. So I looked it up, gave her the number, and she said “that shows as a tub basket.” I said that’s the exact part I need. She took my address and said I’d receive it in a week.

    Sure enough, a nice big box met me at my front door yesterday. Inside is a gleaming new basket and spider arm. Next weekend is my fix-the-washer day. I’ll paint the spider arm with anti-rust primer and some boat paint. I’ll also get the bearing in the outer shell replaced. I hope this will be enough to make it last more than another seven years. (Oh, I had to agree that there is no warranty on the basket since I’m replacing it myself. Whoopie.)

  388. Ben Sibiski Says:

    The real problem with these washers is The Reason You Buy Them. They Use LESS Water. Therein lies the problem! Not enough water gets into the machine to properly rinse the residual detergent. This moist residue corrodes inner parts, and creates Mold and Mildew! I know the conservation of water is important, but the aquifers might be better off if we discharged our gray water to our yards!

    I’m glad I parted out my front load HE3 washer and helped some others restore the function of their washers, but the inevitable is around the corner. Not to mention, my clothes are the Cleanest they’ve been in a Long time! Keep your front loaders! I’m Top Loading from here on Out!!!

  389. Tim Says:

    If you are going to spend $1200 on a washer get a staber. http://www.staber.com/ Not only do they work, they are user servicable! They are made by a former repairman who got sick of seeing all the junk out there.

    I don’t know about your top loader in particular, but in my basement and in most of the rest of the world, front loaders have been getting clothes cleaner than top loaders. In fact, most front loaders suggest you don’t use any detergent for the first 3 washes to get out all the residual detergent left from vertical axis top loaders. If your machine was leaving detergent, either you used way too much detergent, overloaded the machine, or had something else set wrong.

    If these machines can’t be used with a full load, then they are improperly made no matter what the cost. Yes they have to have enough room to tumble properly, but when so many of the posts here are from light use, user error is not the problem here.

  390. Andrew from Ottawa Says:

    Steve Riley wrote: “Twenty minutes later she came back on the line and agreed to send me the part “as a one-time good will gesture”".

    Congratulations! I’ve been trying to accomplish the exact same results (or even some sort of store credit towards a new purchase) since Monday, but have only received the “you need to book an appoitment with a Sears technician, blah, blah..” Like you, I don’t need no stikin’ technician and can fix my HE3t in a few hours if they would only ship the spider bracket (I would be willing to pay a reasonable price), or stand behind the lifetime warranty on the drum, and ship the drum assembly free of charge.

    I’ve been dealing with Sears Canada, so the threat of legal action is not effective. Anyways, your success that motivated to keep slugging against Sears Canada; perhaps I’ll reach a customer service representative that can be swayed.

  391. Jeff Says:

    Just calling them as I see them. And I see many machines overloaded and with too much soap use. And Andrew I ain’t no stinkin’ technician. This is how I make my living. I went to school, go to training sessions and do lots of reading to keep up on new products.
    p.s. I too agree that the frigidaire machine are junk and the whirlpools made in mexico are right behind them. I have a german made whirlpool duet that has had the crap beat out of it for 7 years (read 3 college kids and a high schooler) and it is as quiet as the day I bought it. It’s all what you buy.

  392. Marie Says:

    We got about 4 3/4 years out of our Kenmore front loader before the spider broke. Thanks so much for the video and all the comments. We got away with a $90 repair call (almost $500 estimate to repair), I was told we should have used HE detergent (we did…) then, I was told by the repair man that we should have put the machine on concrete, being on a main floor laundry he said it bounces more. The machine is now in the metal recycling dump and we bought a Fisher Paykel top loader, the clothes come out just as dry as with a front loader.

    We should have gotten more than 4 3/4 years out of a $1000 machine………… shocked that Kenmore has gone downhill….

  393. Dale Says:

    I just got finished repairing my 5-year-old Kenmore/Frigidaire 970-C44102-00 front load washer. The spider bracket was completely corroded and covered in gunk, and two of the arms were broken. The plastic outer tub was gouged from those ridiculously long screws, but not to the point that it had worn through. I ordered the ‘tub kit’ from Sears Canada over the phone for $229+tax, which I thought was just the stainless tub + spider bracket. When I picked up my order at the Sears parts store today, I was surprised to open the box and find the entire outer plastic AND inner stainless tub assemblies. (plastic tub, bearing, pulley + stainless basket and spider bracket) At least I have lots of spare parts now, in case anything besides the spider bracket breaks in the future. Anyways, lesson learned. No more Kenmore for me!

  394. Susan Says:

    Cruel April Fool’s Day joke. Another Kenmore 41742042100 washer crashes after 5 years, 8 months. Back to tried and true toploader (Whirlpool) for me. Not worth the $350 + headache to get a defective product fixed.

  395. Jennifer Says:

    My husband and I have just completed rehabbing my GE front load washer (model # SXH208A1WW – which as I understand it is a re-badged Electrolux). It has been in service for 8 years, so after doing a whole lot of research on the web, you can imagine my trepidation when we opened the outer drum. The surgery revealed a failed seal and failed inner bearing. The spider arms were fine. No hint of corrosion. My only guess is that I have soft water, and the combination of the soft water and the soft water forcing very limited detergent use saved my spider arms. It would be interesting to see how many failed spider arms have happened in hard water conditions vs. soft water. If hard water is a factor, a water softener system might be a consideration to help save the investment in the new front load washers. We were able to put the machine back together for right around $100. It needed new shocks (eBay for $43) and we used aftermarket bearings and seal (40x80x10DL metric seal, 6307-2RS SKS bearing (inboard) 6306-2RS SKS bearing (outboard)). If you don’t have experience in pressing bearings, try a local machine shop, they should be able to press them for you for far less than the cost of replacing the rear drum with bearings and seal already installed.

  396. Marie Says:

    We have a water softener and still had the spider failure after 4 3/4 years. I would be interested to know if your GE machine had aluminum or stainless steel spiders if you check back in Jennifer!

  397. Jennifer Says:

    Most definitely I have the aluminum arms. In further researching the metal electrolysis, I found a really good article on the subject. Apparently, the higher the acid content of the water, the more the electrolysis occurs. A pH test of my water confirms what the spider arms showed. I have very low acid water, so it’s not the softness or the hardness of the water it’s the acid level. Don’t know if a water system can reduce the acid level in the water.

  398. leemalla Says:

    I paid 1300.00 for my Kenmore frontloader, trusting the name and Sears. 2 years and 3 months later and the bearings are gone!! Nothing much Sears will do they can’t even give me a quote on how much it will cost because they have to send one of their repairmen, charge me over 70 dollars before they will tell me what I already know…the bearings are gone! I will never shop at Sears again. Their attitude is just too bad…it’s past the warranty. They also think it’s reasonable for someone to take half a day from work to wait on the repairman.

  399. Tenessa Says:

    leemalla, I wish there was a way to a strong message to the corportations that make our washers that we want dependability…Yes the added features are nice but not at a price of reliability. I almost lost my job 3 years ago because of having 8 repairs in less than a year. And even though I had sears extended no lemon guarentee. Many of repairs did not fall under their list of repairs that make up a lemon. I never knew a repair had to qualify for their Lemon policy. I just wish there was a company today like our parents had. Where they actually had good ethics and reliability.

  400. Tamara A Says:

    Leemalla, what model is yours? I’m still trying to find out if anyone has had issues with the HE4t. Also, has anyone else written to the attorney referenced in James’ post (March 23 2009 4:43 pm)? I did, inquiring after the particulars of the class-action lawsuit but have not yet had a reply.

  401. John Says:

    I have a 6 year old kenmore 417. washer with broken spider bracket arms. I just called about the tub kit # 26970134453200 and can get one in Halifax NS for $230+13% tax. How are people getting these for $150???

  402. Stacey Says:

    I have the Kenmore Elite H3 purchased 1/07…mine just started rocking/increased noise during spin cycle…but my main concern is the smell and the soap staining on clothes? Any quick fixes? I dont use liquid softner and always use Tide HE.

  403. nicola Says:

    kenmore sucks,why is this happening? why cant you just buy the spider sepearate? what a rip of

  404. nicola Says:

    this washer wasn’t the most expensive but wasn’t the cheapest. sears is a world wide company that will replace a craftsman wrench after 50 years but wont fix an 800 washer,which is obsiously a defect

  405. Steve Riley Says:

    Did the repair last weekend. To my surprise, the original spider arm was intact and had very little corrosion. The arm, the tub’s back side, and the entire inside of the plastic shell were covered with brown goo — obviously the grease from my very definitely blown bearings. The inner races of both bearings fell out completely, along with several not-so-round balls. The outer races required a fair amount of hammering with a crowbar and mallet, but they eventually yielded to my superior will power.

    My parents were visitng last week so my dad helped with the repair. He had a net trick to get the new bearings in. Position the bearing and place a 2×4 on its side on top of the bearing. Gently tap the 2×4 with a mallet, going around the bearing’s circumference. When the bearing sits flush with the shell’s surface, remove the 2×4 and position the old bearing’s outer race directly on top of the new bearing’s outer race. Reposition your 2×4 as before and continue tapping with the mallet. I got replacement Koyo bearings and a Timken seal from US Bearings and Drives in Seattle, they have everything in stock.

    Two challenges during reassembly. First: I struggled for 15 mintues to try to get the spring clip around the water fill tube. Eventually I gave up and used a zip-tie instead. Second: I pushed the drain trap too far up onto the tub outlet. I noticed this only when I did my first run, and water leaked profusely around the rubber trap. The outlet has a raised guide that fits into a notch in the rubber trap. If you push the trap up too high, the spring clip can’t draw up tight becuase the guide is in the way. Align the guide with the notch and position the clip just below that point. No leaks now.

    Total time: about eight hours. Figure I spent about half the time making several trips between the third floor laundry closet and the outdoor tool shed at the end of my driveway, plus tight working quarters and taking care not to damage the wood floor in the hallway.

  406. Bax Says:

    Add me to this very long list of dissatisfied Sear’s customers. My Kenmore 417 also just broke the spider arm. It was only 3 yrs 2 months old. I’m glad I didn’t buy the 3 yr warranty …would’ve been pissed. Rather than fix it, I decided to just buy a new LG front loader. Best Buy has a 3.5 cu ft one on sale for $599.

  407. Carrie Says:

    Thanks for the great information and input from all. I am a single mother of two teenagers and loved my HD Kenmore washer until recently when it started doing the thumping thing. Took the back off and spun the drum … I am sure it is the same problem. I have been going to the laundromat for the last month.

    I could order the parts but then I have to try and put it together … I can do a lot of things but fear from reading the experiences of replacing the drum assembly that it might be too much of a challenge for me.

    I think I will try and find a new machine … back to a top loader!

  408. Tim Says:


    Not all horizontal axis machines are bad! The Miele is great, I’ve got client who loves hers. My parents love their Asko. Though for serviceability, even by the homeowner, the Staber is amazing. Yes, I’ve just become a dealer, but chances are you’re not in my area, so I tell you this just because I love the machine, how well it’s built, and how much money it saves me in water, water heating, detergent, and drying. It’s the best (top-loading) horizontal-axis machine there is!

    Amory Lovins of the Rocky Mountain Institute, says the detergent savings alone on this machine will earn back the cost premium in one year.


  409. Jamey Santangelo Says:

    The Pennsylvania Attorney General Bureau of Consumer Protection has been notified of this problem by yours truly. My machine broke and after looking at all of these instances of this particular failure I decided, out of character I might add, to give a shout out to someone who may be able to do something about this. It probably won’t help many of us, but the big companies that take advantage of consumers need to start feeling pressure to do the right thing. Thanks

  410. David Says:

    I had the opportunity to speak with the service manager of a local authorized Frigidaire Service company. On a routine basis, he repairs/replaces failed Frigidaire Front-Load Washer Tub Spider Brackets and Bearings at the approximate rate of 6 washers per month. This is only ONE service company…

  411. Tim Says:






  412. David Says:


    The Video Clip that leads this column refers to Kenmore Models built by Frigidaire. Sears Kenmore Models built by Frigidaire are models starting with Sears model number prefix: 417.

    Model numbers beginning with Sears model number prefix: 110, are Whirlpool built Kenmore Models. Anyone considering joining the lawsuit mentioned by “Tim,” should check their Kenmore model number to verify if it is either a Whirlpool or Frigidaire built model.

  413. Dan Says:

    Sears are a bunch of ignorant a**holes ! My Kenmore Washer is 6 yrs old and the spider assembly is rotten and broke in 3 spots. Sears says they will give me the part (the whole tub assembly) but they have to install it which would be around 5-600 dollars. The machine is only worth 200.00 tops in excellent working order. I JB welded my spider assembly back together but it’s still not right. I reported Sears to the BBB which everyone should do B/C this should be a recall..By the way Sears has a rating of F with the Better Business Bureau which is the worst you can get….I broke down today and bought a Maytag washer and dryer from a maytag store and will never buy anything from SEARS again…..If you have to deal with Catharine in Bellville you will see how ignorant and rude Sears employees are….THANKS FOR NOTHING SEARS YOU BUNCH OF LOSERS….

  414. Lorne Says:

    Water and detergent type have nothing to do with these failures, it’s a patently broken design. You can’t use such dissimilar metals in contact with each other and not expect corrosion — unless you’re building a battery, it’s just plain wrong.

    Same thing happened to my father, who is a metal sculptor and a very experienced welder. He called the manufacturer up and kept at them until he spoke with an engineer, and they pretty much admitted it was an intended design flaw.

    People don’t buy new models if the old ones don’t break down.

  415. Dan Says:

    You are absolutely correct! It’s called GALVANOIC CORROSION …. I’m a welder and have a back ground in metallurgy, so when the ignorant tech told me it was too much soap I wanted to scream…. I just got a response back today from sears thru the Better Business Bureau and they are sticking to their story so I didn’t accept their response and I’m waiting to see what becomes of it…..EVERYONE SHOULD SEND A COMPLAINT TO THE BBB OVER THIS …. SEARS NEEDS TO RECALL THIS PROBLEM !!!!! I’m not giving up …..

  416. Tenessa Says:

    Dan My corroded and broke and sears replaced it under warrenty however my machine was so defective that it cost Sears around 5,000 to repair my machine over 4 years. They finally caved under their lemon policy and paid for replacements. I fought through everyone. BBB, Attorney generals office. Attorney general says they need many complaints before they can pursue a case against them.

  417. Neil Says:

    Dan and everyone else, If you get a chance read my posts. I got a new washer from Sears. After my washer failed after 3.7 years. Problem is my new one will probable go again hopefully with in 4 years so I can get another new one as my state of Maine has the implied warranty that protects us from situations like this.. I would love to have someone start a class action. I’m a metal worker to and these spider assemblies are made to corrode. I have pictures and buy the way I left my basket and the broken spider gear outside in the rain and the spider gear has completely deteriorated. The only thing that is left is a pile of powder and the shaft and the stainless steel bolts that held it together. Also the spider arm is a casting made of a composition of FE+AL. Look it up on the element chart. Iron and Aluminum don’t mix. Highly corrosive especially in water.

  418. Joe Says:

    I have the same problem with my Kenmore front loader. I found the site that was mentioned here on how to get to the drum. My problem is I can’t remove the rear shell from the drum. I removed the pulley and soaked the shaft and the bearing with WD40 but no luck. Anyone have any suggestions?

  419. Tony Says:

    To Joe and anyone else with the bearing problem AND removing nuts/bolts, get a small glass of water next to you, then using a small propane torch, heat the bearing, nut or bolt till very hot, remove torch away from heated item, immediately pour cool water on the bearing nut or bolt, tap the bearing off with a hammer, use a wrench on nuts and bolts..how this works is when you heat a nut, it constricts ( tightens ) and when you pour cool water on it, it expands therefore loosening it, this works as I have used this method many times with automotive parts and such..( on a bolt heat the area holding the bolt, and pour water on the same ares holding the bolt..

  420. Chris Says:

    Well, I joined the club this week. My Kenmore Elite HE3 literally came to a screeching halt after 5.5 years of service. The Sears repair guy came out today and did not need to crack open the tub to know that it was a broken spider bracket. He said that both ends of the tub as well as the basket needed to be replaced. Fortunately, my unit came with a lifetime warranty on the basket and a 10 year warranty on the tub, so the job should “only” cost me labor, which they estimated at a little over $200. He said it would have cost over $1000 if the parts were not under warranty. After reading the plights of many on this blog, I’m feeling blessed to just be shelling out 200 bucks! Sad, I know.

    I asked the repairman if the manufacturer had done anything to improve the quality of the brackets. He was not aware of anything. Hmmm. I’m definitely going to be getting the word out on this fiasco.

  421. John B Says:

    I am located in Southern California and have the notorious bearing noise in my Kenmore front loader model 417.43142200.

    Can anyone please provide me the necessary information so that I can order new bearings and seal (i.e. supplier name, phone number and part numbers/sizes)?

    I have been recently laid-off and monies are tight as it is with many other people. Any assitance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  422. John B Says:

    Also, can anyone provide the “TUB KIT” part number (consisting of inner stainless steel tub, and outer shells assembled) and a phone number to order it?

    Thank you!

  423. SvcMgr Says:

    John B:

    For bearings and seals, see what Jennifer says above in this blog on April 4th, 2009, about her re-badged GE version of this Kenmore/Frigidaire series machine. She says: “We used aftermarket bearings and seal (40×80x10DL metric seal, 6307-2RS SKS bearing (inboard) 6306-2RS SKS bearing (outboard)). If you don’t have experience in pressing bearings, try a local machine shop, they should be able to press them for you for far less than the cost of replacing the rear drum with bearings and seal already installed.”

    However, if you prefer to replace the entire inner/outer tub assembly, you can order: Tub Assembly, complete, part# 134453200, qty 1. You can order from Sears USA, Parts Direct at Phone: (800) 252-1698.

    Also, it is recommended to change the following suspension spring protective/insulating sleeves when replacing or removing the tub assembly for service.

    2. Lower Sleeves, Tub Springs, part# 131560000, qty 2
    3. Upper Sleeves, Tub Springs, part# 131592200, qty 2

    Here is additional contact information for Sears Parts Direct at this link: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/contactus.pd

  424. Joe Says:

    I want to thank the people from this site with all their insight on how to repair my Kenmre model # 417 washer. I have the washer apart and have removed the bearings and the seal from the rear outer tub. I picked up the inner and outer bearings along with the 40x80x10DL metric seal. The problem is this new seal is a little different from the original(I damaged the original seal while removing the bearings). The seal I removed from the tub was grease filled. Does anyone know where I can get the same type of seal. Do I actually need the greased filled seal or can I use this new seal that I purchased? Any help will be appreciated.


  425. George Says:

    My Frigidaire front loading washer became very noisy during the past couple months. I suspected bearings, and after taking the thing apart last night, my suspicions became reality. Instead of spending $200+ for the tub with bearings, I’m scraping the whole machine. Honestly I’m not sure if it would ever go back together again anyway, without it leaking and wasting all that time and money. It’s the last Frigidaire/Kenmore I’ll ever buy. I learn from my mistakes.Great website!!

  426. Dan Says:

    Yeah! I scrapped mine as well ! I will never buy another product from SEARS as long as a live. We are very happy with our new Maytag washer and dryer. So maybe I should thank SEARS for having the worst customer service in the world B/C if they had of fixed it like they should have I would still have a piece of shit product that’s going to break again in a few years. So Thanks SEARS and ****_YOU !!!!

  427. Benjamin Hartin Says:

    I just want to thank you for taking the time to make this video, you just saved me hours of guess work. Hours.

    If you need someone to take a bullet for you, I’m your guy.

    Benjamin Hartin

  428. swen Says:

    Come on!! Poor Sears, how dare you folks be critical, when Sears profits are on the line?

  429. Brian and Jane Says:

    We had the same issues. Is there a class action lawsuit here? What a disposable world we live in. I guess this kind of waste makes someone else money. Perhaps we could gather together and make some law firm money. We’d only get $20 but we’d have the satisfaction of knowing that the greedy business men are realizing that you can’t continue to take advantage of the consumer by planning products to fail. If we really want to be green and want to continue to use modern products, we have to be realistic about how they are made and serviced.

  430. Cap Says:

    Well my kenmore 417.44042400 is banging away. I thought it was the shock absorbers since one of them broke due to the banging. I replaced them but that did not help. I purchased the washer and dryer at sears in 2005. This really sucks. There need to be a recall.

  431. Tenessa Says:

    I wish there had been a class action but it seems impossible to make that happen now a days.

  432. John Says:

    Took my Kenmore (Frigidaire) apart after wife had black spots on many loads. Had been getting louder and louder, jet takeoff like.. for many months.
    Take the rear panel off and see if there are brown stains down the tub from behind the bearing wheel area. When you turn it, very noisy. This was over 12 years old and had worked well. Will never buy again! Poor engineering.
    Your video was just what we needed to save the time and trouble of messing with it further! Thanks very much.
    What did you buy to replace it? We are shopping tomorrow for a Samsung with a direct drive motor. WF328AAW is nice, but WF219 is about 700.

  433. swen Says:

    buying a samsung, more crap same with lg(which by the way used to be goldstar)

  434. PrecisionMachinisT Says:

    Our GE model wsxh208a1ww sn/mf403281w started into clunking again last night–it was purchased new on 08/12/2003 and was repaired the first time under warranty on 28 mar 07 at Cole’s Appliance Repair Longview Wa. Spin basket was provided under warranty but labor charge was $192.00 and they also claimed to have installed a new seal that goes between the outer tub halves at a cost of $49.32 (part number wh08x10002) On dis-assembly today I noted there was no seal installed, instead they had used silicone rtv sealant and omitted the o-ring altogether.

    Anyways, determined to not give any more of my money to the repair place, (as indeed they also profit from this ongoing fraud case ) figured best for me not to enable them to continue the practice and determined it best to do the work myself, instead sourcing the part from 3rd party. ( ended up I ordered as frigidaire pn 131618500 from sears )

    As has been mentioned before, this “spider” breaks because of dis-similar metals….anyone that has ever owned an outboard boat motor knows this and it is why sacrificial zinc is used as a protective anode in these types of applications, so seriously considering perhaps buying some zinc and attaching, hopefully get a few more years before the next failure.

  435. PrecisionMachinisT Says:

    Correction to above:

    On closer investigation the tub seal was found not to have been omitted.

  436. Mark Says:

    I read through all the comments. Here is my question. I have a Duet washer that is 4.3 years old. Never had anything go wrong with it. I understand Whirlpool uses the aluminum spider as well as Frigidaire/Kenmore/GE…..BUT Frigidaire warrants their tub ONLY and not the spider, yet the spider CANNOT be bought by itself. Does Whirlpool follow this same shitty practice or do they actually warrant the tub if the spider goes out? Oh and are all modern front load washers using aluminum spiders? LG, Electrolux, Bosch? Anyone know?

  437. Jerry Lusk Says:

    I have a Kenmore 110.46472500 made by whirlpool (wfw8300sw00) and need the rear tub seal between the inner tub and the inner bearing. Number on the seal is 8540091 made be FSP Appliance Care Products (Whirlpool). For some reason no one seems to be able to find it….. Thank you

  438. mjtimber Says:

    OK, same problem. Being a material scientist, I can tell you that the SST/Aluminum couple is not the major culprit, but the alkaline nature of detergent, HE or not. Since caustic agents are used for etching aluminum, you couldn’t design a worse place to put it. In my case, we did everything right and made it eight years, though ALL THREE LEGS WERE BROKEN. Ours broke much closer to the spindle, as this is where detergent would (and apparently did) collect. The arms were not corroded to nearly the extent as the video. I’m not convinced that the weight is an issue, and bearings can lock up for a number of reasons (mine are fine after eight years), but the arm is clearly a design flaw, intentional or not.

    THIS HAS CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT WRITTEN ALL OVER IT! The icing on the cake is their refusal to sell the spider arm separately. I believe that Whirlpool would be the appropriate defendant, but I’m certainly not an expert in that field. Anyone care to come along?

  439. Charlotte Holt Says:

    I would so love to take part in a class action suit. Even if our share of a settlement was but a penny, it would be worth it just for the satisfaction of bringing this issue to light and seeing Sears/Whirlpool/Frigidaire admit to the problem. Someone please point us in the right direction!

  440. Terion Says:

    My wife and I had the same corrosion issue with the spider arms, which broke after a time of being really noisy. We have a GE WSXH208V1WW, which is one of those 417 Frigidaires at heart.

    To take a moment about the too-long bolts scoring the plastic tub: without seeing the tub at various points, I think it would be a safe bet that the scoring happened after a spider arm broke; once the drum was no longer held centered by all arms, and was allowed to come into contact with the tub, I’d wager that is when the scoring happened. Of the comments I read, they all indicated that the washer was continued to be used after an increase of noise, which is likely when one arm had already failed.

    Anyway, after opening it up and discovering it was the arms that broke, I called up GE. We’d had the machine for… oh, maybe 7 years, give or take a year. It took me a couple calls to get myself oriented, but once I got to the warranty department, they sent me the inner-tub-with-spider-arms assembly; I nicely pointed out that the arms were part of the tub assembly — as others pointed out, they are not available separately — so the inner tub unit had failed within the parts warranty. The lady agreed with me, and in not too long a large box appeared on my doorstep. It was a fairly big job, with myself, my father, and my father-in-law (complicated by the close confines of my laundry area) but it saved the labor cost.

    It just reinforces the fact that yelling at people you want to help you is much less effective than being friendly and giving the customer service person a reason to help you. (Such as giving them a reason to consider the spider arms as a piece of the inner tub “part”.)

  441. tdi-guy Says:

    i went to the parts counter in ottawa with the 26970134453200 part number and they had one in stock, price was $229 so $252 with tax out the door.

    came with everything, the two outer tubs, the inner stainless tub, the 3 fins, even the pulley.

    the 1-800-my-home guy out in Regina had no clue what i was talking about.

    thanks to all the info on here I saved myself several hundred dollars.

  442. tim Says:

    Just replaced my drum/spider on our Sears 417 front-loading washer after 4 years. Incompatible metals causing corrosion to the spider arm seems to be the problem. It was broken in all 3 places. Basic chemistry would predict this failure. Begs the question, did Sears/Frigidaire know this? If so, are they generating return business, repair or otherwise? If not, are they just a negligent company that produces inferior products? Anyone have insight into these questions? Has anyone taken action? These seem to me to be worthwhile questions.


  443. Terry Connolly Says:

    Add ours to this list. Sears 417.44042400 front loader. I was at my work bench not ten feet when on the final spin cycle you would have thought their was a brick in the washer! After tearing down the washer two of the three arms of the spider are fractured. Thankfully this website has provided a great deal of information. I’m going with bringing in the broken tub spider combo into sears with the isn’t this a lifetime warranty part? I have already replaced the door latch. When I removed the pulley the word CHINA was stamped into the bearing seal in plain site. How do you “BUY AMERICAN” ???

  444. ew keane Says:

    Just looked at a broken FL today, about 4yo, squeeky bearing, dosnt spin good.

    I had no idea the problem was as bad as this. Tony Tool kit $155 plus $300 deposit. Maybe $50 for parts to fix the board problem, wax motor. Couple three hours labor. Now I read that there are other problems?

    It would take me a few jobs to justify the capitalization, and I am not sure that this is a fix I could sell. If the failure rate is this bad, whats going to fail next?

    I think I’ll tell Brian to get a 2nd hand Kenmore TL. I know they work, and are way easy to fix. Also, no funky control boards to fail.

    Sorry to sound like a wet blanket.

  445. Graham M Hardie Says:

    Here is a video showing the tear down procedure if you want to repair the unit. I only received a 50% credit after complaining to Electrolux. It is about the same cost as the parts needed to repair. So that may help.


  446. Graham M Hardie Says:

    I am trying to upload the video as embedded but it may not work.

  447. alex Says:

    had the same problem with my kenmore front loader as have so many others.
    extremely loud knocking during spin cycle and little bits of plastic in with wash .
    actually paid a sears repair man to come out and diagnose — he said it was the
    bearing assembly but didn’t take it apart to see if the spider assembly was broken as well
    his advice was to ditch it and buy a new one. this cost me $70.00
    have been schlepping the family laundry to the laundromat for months as can’t afford the expense of a new one right now — really disappointing, i’d been hoping to have the
    washer for at least 10 years (it lasted less than 6)

  448. Cap Says:

    Repair guy came out to my house too. Here is my cost –
    Basket – 221.08
    Tub – 140.45
    Pulley – 73.26
    Sub Shell/Be-229.18
    Tax on parts – 49.14
    Labor – 206.51
    Total 957.70
    I reminded him that the basket had a life time warranty, then he took off not before telling me to buy another washer, not a kenmore. Strange, I guess this is how Sears ic keeping their repair department in business by sell crap. My five year warranty expired March 2009 and my washer died in June 2009. He also told me not to buy another front loader, I wish I could get my top loader back from my sister which is still ticking after 10 years. Dam.

  449. Cap Says:

    Oh forgot the cost to tell me what I already knew – 73.83, they tax that too.

  450. RAFAEL Says:

    like the others, my washer was doing a knocking sound, took it apart, found out that the spider arm , ( just one) is broken, can i weld it, maybe, any imput about this, sears can repare it for $ 650.oo what a ripp off

  451. Marc Says:

    Like DEBORAH & DAVID above who posted on January
    28th, 2009 at 12:46 am, we purchased a Sears
    Kenmore Front Loader, model 417.4105200.
    Similarly, we purchased our Kenmore Front Load
    Washing machine in the Fall of 2001. Our machine
    is now also failing. It still runs, but it is
    severely staining our clothing with brown spots.
    There does not appear to be rust in our hot water
    supply. This problem does seem to be isolated to
    the washing machine, not the dryer. At the time
    we purchased this machine, it was listed as a
    Consumer Reports Best Buy, and the Kenmore
    equipment was rated as being less likely to
    require repair. We expected the front loader to
    require even less repair than a typical top

    Regardless, we have a significant problem now. Do
    we bother attempting to fix this equipment and get
    a few more years out of it, or accept it as a
    lemon, cut our losses and avoid the Kenmore brand?

    Did anyone with similar experience attempt to fix
    the equipment? Did the fix work? What components
    were defective which caused the brown stains?

    The rubber boot at the door does not show obvious
    signs of deterioration. Also the machine still
    goes through its cycles properly. It just
    destroys the clothing with brown smears and
    stains. Entire loads at a time.

  452. Erik Says:

    Hello Marc. I will tell you exactly what the problem is.. it is called corporate greed and short term thinking.

    I experienced exactly the same problem — brown spots, a lot of noise when running the washer. It is also a 2001 model Kenmore frontloader washer. My advice for something so poorly designed, get rid of the washer, and never buy any Kenmore or any Sears products again in your life.

    I am buying a European brand this time, Miele washer are said to last at least 20 years — which less waste on the dump. No wonder US manufacturing companies (cars & appliances) are suffering.

    Cheers. Erik

  453. Tony Says:

    Ok, I`ve been reading these posts since last fall, when my Kenmore front load model no. 44102 started making loud noises, after reading all posts I figured I might as well use it till it goes, well tonight it broke, leaking water all over. I would like to drop it off in front of the local sears store where I bought it with all the comments posted here hanging from the roof of the store so all can read it, or throw it through the front window of their store like that old lady does with the tire in that old tire commercial.

  454. Tony Says:

    My mistake, my model no. is 41744052400, not 44102.

  455. Tony Says:

    Can anyone tell me how to remove the pulley off the back of the drum? It is held on with an Allen bolt, but is extremely tight.

  456. Ben Sibiski Says:

    The Allen Screw is Loc-tited in place. If You can’t loosen with a wrench, you may have to apply some heat.

  457. Tony Says:

    Thanks for the reply Ben. I had torn my washer apart today to find the leak, front panel off, drum out and apart, turns out there was maybe a support ring inside the rubber boot connected to the pump and the drum, this had deteriorated and broke in many pieces and was jammed inside the pumps plastic housing. This ring was four inches in diameter, anyway it poked a leak in the plastic housing, quick easy fix, about $56.00

  458. Tony Says:

    Correction, I previously stated a ” support ring ” I had found in the pump was from the rubber boot, not so, turns out it was from a wire bra that our exchange student had washed of hers, a year and a half ago, that had worn the hole in the pumps plastic housing. Along with this ” ring ” were five quarters and a zipper tab, I melted closed the pin leak with a wood burning hot iron, cost of new pump, about $90.00, my cost $00.00… though plenty of labor..

  459. Tony Says:

    I must state that the quarters made it TO the pump, but did not pass through into the housing.

  460. Erin Says:

    I too am having this problem with my Frigidaire front load washer. I have been reading all of the posts regarding the issue of the spider leg in the back of the drum. I called Frigidaire’s toll free number (only to be redirected to a non toll free number if I wanted to speak with someone). I called the number and the customer service rep. informed me that the drum and spider leg assembly is under A 25 YEAR WARRENTY. She referred me to an authorized Frigidaire serviceperson in my area. I spoke with him this morning and he placed the order for the part which he informed me would be here in 2 days. I am hoping this fixes the problem for atleast a few more years…..then when it takes a dump again we will replace with a different brand.

  461. Charlotte Holt Says:

    Can you share the number of the customer service rep who told you the drum and spider leg assembly were under warranty for 25 years?! I need such a referral in my area. I’ll pay the exorbitant labor charges if we can get the parts for free!!!

  462. James Says:

    Brown spotting is a sign that the rear bearing is bad. If your spider bracket hasn’t failed yet, it’ll probably fall apart shortly after replacing the bearing. Loud banging means the spider bracket and shaft have deteriorated beyond repair. The spider bracket is aluminum, hence the deterioration, so unless you’re an experienced welder, it’s better to replace it. The drum is under lifetime warranty, but you can’t buy the spider bracket without the drum. So if either one goes bad, you’re better off replacing both. My spider bracket just fell apart after 6.5 years, and I don’t use powder detergent. To have sears repair it, would’ve been over $800. I replaced the drum, spider, and rear tub for $382.97, which took about 5 hours to do, with no extra hands. It now runs like new. You should be able to reuse the pulley, belt, front tub, and bellow.

  463. DB Says:


    How did you repair the broken plastic eyelets on the drum housing?

    Mine are only about 10% worn through, but it’s only a matter of time before the metal springs pull their way through the plastic.

    Can you give a more detailed explanation as to how you repaired it with the coat hanger?



  464. Rob Says:

    I knew there had to be more eyelet failures like ours. The spider braket has not failed yet. We had one suspension spring cut completely through the eyelet, dropping the entire basket assembly to the bottom, the other eyelet is cut 1/2 way through. The lag bolts that hold the basket assembly together have worked loose,partially seperating the halves, allowing the water leakage. The dropped basket punched a dent in the side housing. We had a sears repairman out, they wanted $1,300.00 to fix the $850.00 washer that is now selling for $500.00. The machine is still sitting in our basement. We bought a new washer and are still seeking recourse. Note – the repairman said that only after replacing the basket assembly then could he check the motor and electroic controls, there may be damage to the electronics that will cost even more to repair.

  465. Ben Says:

    If the springs wore through the Outer Tub assembly…chances are the spider bracket has or is failing, causing excessive vibration. The whole machine is a Poorly designed P.O.S.

    Proverbial Road to Ruin Paved with Good Intentions….

  466. Kathy Says:

    Man, I just bought the Kenmore 4.4 steam front loader….I hope I didn’t make a mistake. After reading these remarks I’m scared! Major purchase…..

  467. Travis Says:

    We have the Kenmore 970-c44102-10 and thanks to this website we saved ourselves $89.99 for a service call. My husband took apart the washer and sure enough two of the spider brackets were broken. Funny thing, it only started to make that clunking noise yesterday. Anyhow, we will be making the repair ourselves for $230 plus tax (no shipping because we have a sears parts store in our area). One thing is for sure, we are repairing this washer only to save up for a much better one down the road. Probably 3 and 1/2 years. That’s how long we have had this one!!!! What a piece of junk!

  468. ED Says:

    What a neat video. After six years I have the same problem and replaced it with same Kenmore model. Not alot of choices out there for under the counter washers and dryers. Will use the HE detergent and see how it goes this time.

  469. Francis (Ottawa) Says:


    My spider arms are broken too, Sears washer purchased in 2002. I paid the $89 for the repairman to come visit. He wiggled the tub and said, “yup it’s broken”. $250 for a new tub assembly and $300 for the labor. I declined. Luckily I found this site. I ordered the new tub assembly $156.99 and I disassembled following the instructions. There was a bit of wear on the drive belt. When the spider arms broke the belt was thrown and a small piece got scraped up. I declined to buy a new on ($56), but if anyone is throwing their machine out, can I have your belt? (fchow8888@gmail.com). When I get the new tub I am going to disassemble and coat the spider arms with an epoxy sealant. I don’t think rust paint will work because the arms are aluminum. The epoxy sealant should bond to it though. I will also dremel down the vane screws and add locking washers.

  470. Francis (Ottawa) Says:

    One more comment . . . :-) I’m beginning to have second thoughts about the advantages of front loaders. I know people who have top loaders that are 25 years old. Does the front loader really use only 1/3 of the water? Maybe, but it doesn’t rinse the soap as well so most people enable the extra rinse option. So now we’re up to 2/3 of the water. The top loaders hold more clothes and the wash cycle is much shorter. I’m still going to fix mine, because I enjoy working with mechanical toys, but I probably won’t buy another one again (although with the spider arms epoxied, I may not have to for a long while).

  471. Stephen Says:

    That Kenmore front load washer was manufactured by Frigidaire

  472. Cap Says:

    I have a Kenmore 417.44042400 going to the curb.

  473. Kathy Bezanson Says:

    Oh my God, I just bought one and paid a lot of money for it. I think after reading these comments that I made a big mistake! What is the return timetable? I bought it 2 weeks ago!

  474. Francis (Ottawa) Says:


    You should be able to return it. Just say it’s too noisy or something like that. I’m repairing mine, but I won’t buy another Kenmore front loader.

  475. Ute Miethe Says:

    Not even a year ago I bought a Kenmore stacked Washing unit with a frontloader on the bottom. I was set up & operated properly and is sitting on concrete floor. Right from the start there seemed to be problems – the machine was rather loud when spinning, seem to have issues with handling unbalanced loads and actually moved around despite being set up level (even though the machine was not overloaded ) and there seemed to be not enough water to really thoroughly clean the clothes, espcially with a full machine. I requently had to run the machine again when the laundry was more soiled.

    I was running another load yesterday and load seem to have been unbalanced and the machine stopped. When I checked later I actually found the door of the washing machine had popped open and one of the prongs for closing the door had broken off!!!! The machine was still on but not running the laundry inside soaking wet. I can no longer close the door.

    We are only a 2 people household and don’t run a lot of laundry – this is a completely unacceptable level of performance. This is model (# 417 48102701)…..I grew up with front loaders in Germany. My mom never had those issues and they effectively cleaned the laundry. There was also no extra detergent needed. We used liquid and powder. This washing machine is a lemon!I intent to get it replaced with something else because I do not want to have this issue again in 6 months or a year from now. They better accomodate me!

  476. Rich Says:

    Had the whole tub replaced, parts under warrantee, labor at $332. Turns out the replacement tub was defective. Got my 332 back, washer is going to the curb. Frigidaire, not Kenmore – made by Gibson. No wonder they warrantee the tub.

  477. Jenn Says:

    We purchased our front load Kenmore washer in early 2003 and yesterday the whole drum fell down during a load. It had been making a loud clunking noise for the past year but we didn’t really know what it was and never got it looked at. We are getting rid of this piece of crap and buying something new. Any suggestions on a good washer?

  478. Alice Says:

    We’ve had our Frigedaire Gallery since 2000 and only now is it super noisy during the spin cycle and obviously off-balance – similar to what’s described here.

    I have a Kenmore dryer stacked on top of the washer. Can I get a GE or other brand of similar size and still stack the Kenmore dryer on top? Does anyone know?


  479. annb Says:

    I’m having similar problems with my 3 yr old Bosch nexxt flw now what?

  480. SvcMgr Says:


    After inspection by you or a service technician, let us know if your Bosch nexxt front load washer has bad bearings and/or broken spider arms on the wash tub/basket. Will be interesting to identify other brands having this problem.

  481. Ann Says:

    I wonder is Sears and Frigidare (since they make Kenmore) are looking at these comments. What a crime. I want a refund! Stop screwing the consumer!

  482. jim Says:

    A useful video, but I don’t believe the spider is aluminum, but “white metal” meaning zinc or some cheap alloy of zinc. “white rust” of zinc is well known, and I believe it is encouraged by chlorine (probably also by non-chlorine bleaches). The real problem is the design of the spider which has a ring of voids around the hub which fill up with wet corrosion and gunk and stay perpetually wet and corroding.

    My “Gibson” about 5 years old is the same machine, and started to leak from the junction between the two halves of the tank. After finding this video I decided to do a full disassembly and check the spider (took about an hour). My spider is still intact, but corrosion well started and the holes packed solid with wet zinc corrosion. I will clean and dry the holes, then fill them with epoxy, then clean and paint the spider and re-assemble.

    THe protruding screws are not a problem until the spider or bearing breaks and the tub goes out of alignment enough to hit the tank.

    BTW, I also replaced the brushes on the motor about a year ago.

  483. Heather Says:

    I have a kenmore frontlosder going on our sixth year..it has just started making a scratchy metal noise sporadically during spin cycles…I have always used liquid HE but have recently in the past month started using a liquid detergent booster OXI Clean to make clothes brighter….and I find it strange…is the noise beacuse I am reaching the age of extinction or because I have been adding the oxiclean booster and it is helping in the corrosion process and I am unknowing trashing my washer????


  484. tony Says:

    I believe any detergent you use would not make much difference. I have never used powder detergent yet my is banging and rattling away, but is still running.

  485. barb Says:

    Great video. Had the same problem. Had the Kenmore Heavy duty 2way tumble for about 4 years now. Had to replace the shock absorbers last year and now the repairman said we had to basically get a new drum. We also had stains on the clothes and the washer got so loud you had to pretty well yell when it was running. I’ll never buy another Kenmore product (their dishwashers suck too).

  486. David F Says:

    Add me to the list of dissatisfied Kenmore owners. Dis-similar metals with galvanic wasteage, nothing done about it. Having to buy a drum and spider when only the spider is defective, similarly having to buy the whole rear half of the outer drum because the bearings and seal are defective, and here is one I have not seen above. When I stripped my 8 year old 417.4114200 down the spider bearings had failed together with the seal. The spring in the seal had gouged the brass sleeve on the spider shaft. My spider is in fairly good shape and when I first got it out I intended to reuse it after cleaning it up, coating it and fitting a new sleeve. Oh how naive was I. I do not have access to a well equipped machine shop or I would machine the old sleeve off, turn (machine) a new one shrink it on. Paying a machine shop to do it would cost more than a new drum and spider assembly. I have one ordered from Reliable parts in Dartmouth Nova Scotia for C$ 281.15 inclusive of taxes and shipping. The bearings and seal I have ordered from a local supplier, Kinecor, for a total cost of C$33.66 inc tax. Just under C$315.00 for parts alone plus whatever I coat the new spider with. What a rip off. I would have gone with the 269etc part number above but the nearest parts wharehouse is over 450 miles away and the extra cost of shipping is not worth it just so that I do not have to put the drums assembly back together, should I have been able to economically get to the wharehouse myself I would have picked that option. Incidentally the guy I was speaking to at Reliable Parts knew all about the 269etc part number but further advised that it is supplied by Frigidaire to Sears and is supposed to be only available to Sears authorised technicians. That I find interesting. He further advised that they (Reliable Parts) were unable to obtain it.
    I hope when I get them all my parts fit together OK but what a rip off even without any labour.
    Should my repair work it will be apart again at the first rumble for a bearing and seal renewal,and to see how my coating works.
    Whilst I am really teed off with Sears I don’t know that the others are much better. My wife and I always lent towards Sears as they used to ‘Service what we sell’ and although the original price was likely a little more that the same model under the manufacturer’s name and the same going for the parts, the parts themselves were, normally, readily available. Not anymore. Should I not have been able to carry out these repairs myself and even if I could have found a repair tech to install just the bearings and seal, instead of the whole half drum, the labour costs would have make the repair prohibitive

  487. Boaz4 Says:

    I really wish I had found this site a little sooner. In case “Ute Miethe” checks this, what brand of frontloader did you grow up with in Germany? And has anyone else heard of the brand “Miele?” My thanks to all who have posted information, this has sadly been the most encouraging news I’ve found so far.

  488. Ute Miethe Says:

    I think most of my mom’s washing machines were Miele, but one could have been a Bosch tto, I am not 100% sure…I think total she had between 1960 and 1986 when we move to the US were 3 machines and she only upgraded because the newer machines had more features and were more energy efficient.

    Keep in mind to that back then, such items were built to last longer, just like here until corporation discovered they could make more money if they designed less well made machines that are prone to frequent break downs, thereby earning more money through repairs and new sales…..

  489. Ron Sealey Says:

    Kenmore Washing Machine–reason for drum seal and bearing failure.

    The seal on the inside of the outer plastic housing leaks a very small amount of soapy water into the bearing cavity.
    In keeping with the manufacturers bad design there is no drainage hole in the bearing cavity to relieve this slight water build up so eventually the soapy water builds up and leaks into the sealed inner bearing closest to the tub and dissolves the lubricating grease in this bearing. Next this bearing becames worn due to lack of lubrication (hence the noisy spin cycle) which makes the shaft wobble slightly opening the shaft seal to the tub even more. As the seal begins to fail, even more the soapy water leaks in and eventually leaks through the inside bearing to the outer bearing (there are two sealed bearings) also killing it. The soapy water also corrodes the shaft and the machined seats for the bearings. The resulting shaft wobble from all of this allows the now greasy soapy water to leak back into the machine to soil your clothes and to leak out of the back of the big plastic housing.
    Without redesign to the outer bearing housing to provide a drain hole for the normal small amount of leakage thru the seal this machine is doomed to have bad bearings and seals ever 2 or 3 years.

  490. frank Says:

    I had same basic type of problem with cheapo GE top-loader washer–aluminum, dome shaped hub supports spin basket and corrodes from detergent exposure. When I replaced it I primed and painted the new hub so it should last forever. Unfortunately the rest of the washer won’t. Just the other week I had to replace a burned out motor in this machine. The transmission also makes a pronounced knocking noise during the agitation phases (wash and rinse phases) of the cycle. I’m just ignoring it. As long as it washes clothes I don’t care about the noise. Don’t know how long it will last though. Play in mechanical assemblies that gives rise to knocking noises is a bad thing, pounding out parts and eventually breaking them. Oh well, what can one do?

  491. David F Says:

    Still seething!!
    However having further thoughts on the root cause of the problem.
    With respect to Ron Sealy’s theory above, 16th Sept. that a drain hole in the bearing housing will aleviate the bearing failure problem I do not agree any water leaking into the housing will eventually find its way into sealed bearings and corroded the housing. Further I can imagine my wife’s reaction to having greasy, rusty water leaking onto the floor. These bearings take one heck of a pounding as vitually no load will be ‘balanced’ and the ‘lever effect’ on the inner bearing will be quite substantial. Whilst upping the ‘grade’ of the bearings, particularly the inner one may give a slightly longer life I have serious doubts. Remember the ‘grade’ only indicates the physical manufacturing tolerances it does not take into account material suitability or loading characteristics. Whilst choice of detergent may have an effect on the rate of corrosion of the spider it is the overal physical characteristics of the electrolyte and the dissimilar metals that largely determine the rate of corrosion, the actual area of metal in direct contact also determines localised corrosion rates. Having said that it impossible, without extensive and expensive testing, to determine corrosion rates for all domestic water supplies, detergent and other additives (bleach, fabric softener etc) combinations. I would imagine, and it is only a guess, that water supplies with lower pH values may well haver higher rates of corrosion. Remember a pH of 7 is neutral, 1 is totally acidic and 14 is totally alkaline.
    That all being said I still believe that it is galvanic corrosion but that it not the stainless steel drum that is the major cuplrit but the steel shaft cast into the zinc alloy of the spider. There is no corrosion on the outer third of the spder arms I removed from my machine, the corrosion gets worse closer to the centre of the spider hub. Further there does not appear to be any form of seal between the end of the brass sleeve on the shaft and the body of the spider, this would appear to give the electrolyte a direct path to the steel of the shaft so anyone coating their spider would need to ensure that they get their coating right upto that area without getting any on the sleeve in way of the seal lip landing area.
    As a matter of interest the instrucion book that came with our washer states that ‘Either powdered or liquid detergent can be used’, it does however recommend that a low sudsing detergent be used and further adds that ‘for best results oversudsing should be avoided’. There is no mention of HE detergent anywhere in the instructions we have that came with the washer!

  492. Larry Says:

    Charlotte et al

    You can get the manual for my Kenmore washer here: http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/owner_manuals/search?sid=MMHMxSearsx00019&query=41729042992+KENMORE. The manual states a limited ten year warranty on the basket, which I am guessing you would find in all of the Kenmore washer manuals.

    The spider arms on my washer just broke as well, after only five years of use for two people. Does anyone know if the basket warranty includes the spider arm assembly?

  493. David F Says:

    Am I kicking myself! DON’T COAT THE SPIDER.
    There is an interesting paper by D.H. Lister and W.G. Cook at http://www.unene.ca/un1001_Galvanic Corrosion.ppt For those of us without a PhD in chemistry skip to pages 29,35,36,37,39,40,41,42,43,53 and 54.
    I don’t know what the material of the spider is, aluminium, zinc and and magnesium (and some of their alloys) are frequently used for die casting, and the spider is die cast. All of these materials are at the bottom of the Galvanic Series (page 29 in the subject paper, I know that the subject table is for seawater but I don’t think it will be much different for the ‘soup’ that will be our washing and rinsing water), so they are going to corrode.
    page 53 is also intresting, how many of us have copper pipes in our homes? Substitute ‘zinc spider’ (if the spider is zinc or a zinc alloy) for ‘galvanised tank’ and what do we get? The copper pipes destroying the spider. VERY INTERESTING

  494. David F Says:

    The link I gave for the above paper does not work straight away search for un1001 Reactor Chemistry and Corrosion and then click on the entry that has the above link.
    Sorry about that.

  495. TJ Says:

    Anyone ever replace the shocks on their washer? I have a GE Profile WPXH214 that has busted both shocks at the ring connection location. I believe I have found the replacement part and wanted to see if anyone had any advice for replacing them other than putting a heavy weight into the drum to lower it into position.


  496. Ute Miethe Says:

    I am happy to report good news! Our local Sears appliance dept.agreed to replace our washing machine with another one that will hopefully perform better. I picked and LG model instead.

    I did have the repair guy out who gave me a spiel about how he’s had to level some of the machines in question while running the spin cycle on high . He also told me that if I had him repair the machine it would void any warranty, so I decided not to. I told the manager at Sears that if a machine is so sensitive to need this level of fine tuning on a level concrete floor, something is not quite right with the design and it is simply not acceptable.

    I also handed her the information that I found here thanks to all who contributed here and on another website that talked about this machine’s flaws. She said she was grateful for the infomation. Hopefully this will have more positive results and more happy customers instead.

  497. tony Says:

    I used an automotive floor jack to re-install/adjust/position the drum in place.

  498. SvcMgr Says:


    I removed the shock absorbers from a similar, scrapped machine waiting at the curb for trash pick-up. Unless the shock absorber design has changed, the shocks I removed expand and contract, making for easy alignment with the mounting holes on the outer tub and shock mounting bracket on the base/floor of the machine. No repositioning of the tub should be required if you are only replacing shock absorbers.

  499. TJ Says:

    It looks like the shock part is different from the ones I have on the machine now. I hope it is simple, expands and I don’t need a auto floor jack! :)

    Thanks for both of your feedbacks.


  500. Megan Says:

    I have a front loading Kenmore Washer (and dryer) that came with the house I purchased a year ago. I’m not sure how old they are, but they appear to be quite new. I recall saying how much I liked the washer because it was soooo quiet!! The past couple loads however it has become extremely loud… making a howling sound during the fast spin cycle. I don’t know the first thing about appliance repairs (I’m a first time home owner!) So I don’t know if I should just keep running the washer until it breaks… and buy a new one or if now is the time to attempt to take it apart… or if I should call a repair person… or what I should do!?!! I stumbled across this forum and decided to write… I’m guessing the problem is the bearings and possible the spider assembly… but I’m not sure. My brother is pretty good with ‘fix-it’ projects so if I needed to take the thing apart, he could probably help me.
    Should I attempt to replace the bearings? Do I do it now? Or wait?? There is no water leaking and other than the howling noise, the washer is still functioning. Where would I go to get new parts/bearings?? I’m at a loss and afraid of doing anymore laundry and causing further damage! Please help!!
    Oh… I’m from New Brunswick Canada as well… so shipping on parts coming from the U.S. would probably cost me a fortune too…

  501. Larry Says:


    Here is my recent experience (this past week); you can decide. I had a Sears repair guy come out and look at my machine. He asked me what noise the washer was making, then he wiggled the washing machine basket a little bit. He concluded the bearing was gone, and then gave me an estimate of ~$750 American. All this without taking it apart. I told him it obviously was not worth that much, so paid him his $129 house call fee and sent him on his way. I then proceeded to take the washer apart myself, only to find the spider cracked and corroded just like the video that was the origination of this site. I could see no visible damage on the bearing. I also discovered in the manual that the basket has a ten year warranty. I called Sears back and let them know, and then said they would send a different guy out. That guy never showed up, so I called Sears back and asked for the repair guy to call me back. He called me back, and lo and behold it was the same guy. Anyway, he says that the basket does have a ten year warranty, but you cannot replace the basket without the spider as they are sold as a unit. Furthermore, to use the warranty the service has to be done by a Sears technician. For him to do the work, he would also change the bearing as that usually goes right after the spider goes, probably because the basket is wobbling once the spider cracks. Anyway, the bearing is sold with the outer drum (back) as a unit, which is >$200 itself. He told me to call Whirlpool and see if they might help me get just the warranty part, as Sears won’t help. I will never buy a Sears anything again.

    As an aside, other Canadians in this thread mentioned they got the whole assortment of parts for ~$150; the same here goes for $500+. Canadian companies won’t ship to the US. You might be in a better position over there.

    There really are no serviceable parts on this machine, so unless you forgot to plug the machine in, the Sears repairman won’t be much help other than telling you that your machine is a write-off. As an aside, I found a site that sells all the parts to my washer. I did a rough totaling of all the item prices, and it came out to >$4k. When the sum of the parts of a $650 washer is greater than $4k, it is pretty clear what the mark-up is. They obviously don’t want these things serviced.


  502. David F Says:

    I would strongly recommend that you cease using the washer, you will likely cause more damage than has already been done. Additionally when the seal on the spider shaft fails you will start getting ‘rust’ and possibly grease stains on your laundry.
    I would suggest you get your brother to strip the machine down and then assess your situation. Please see my post of 16th September.
    You could be looking at under C$50.00 for just bearings and seal (I would renew the seal even if it looked OK), or C$320.00 for the spider/tub assmbly (I would renew the bearings and seal even if they appeared to be OK).
    Should you decide to go ahead with the tear down please let me know what you find, and don’t forget a case of beer for your brother, these washers are horrible things to work on, see the comment above about getting a box of band-aids before you start!
    As for my part in the ongoing saga I sent Frigidaire (the makers of my Kenmore) an email asking them what the material of the spider is. Electrolux, the full owners of Frigidaire, reponded by email stating that it is an ‘Aluminium Casting’. They have not yet reponded to my follow up question asking if any sort of protective coating is applied to the casting.
    In air aluminium develops a protective oxided coating which, in air is self healing in the event of mechanical damage to it (the coating). This coating whilst it will partially inhibit galvanic corrosion will not eliminate it, neither will it prevent chemical corrosion in aqueous fluids with a pH below about 4.0 and above 8.0

  503. tony Says:

    Just a comment. I replaced our 24 yr. old Maytag top loader in 2005, with a Sears front loader, BUT I kept the old Maytag only to wash old work clothes out side. My ” new ” Kenmore is making all the same racket/noise/vibrating as everyone else`s, will run it till it dies on me then scrap it. Will use the old Maytag as backup when this pile of scrap breaks for good.

  504. frank Says:

    To Megan:

    Dear Megan-
    NEVER, EVER, EVER have an “appliance repairman” come to your house again! Once in my life I did this. It was,also, a SEARS repairman. This was many years ago. I had just purchased a new washer from SEARS, a top loader, and when it reached the spin phase on the very first load I did in it the machine produced this incredible screeching noise. I called SEARS and they sent out one of their “appliance repairmen.” This old halfwit duffed around with the machine for about 3/4 hr. and concluded that it was the snubber. He didn’t have the sense to put anything in the machine that would simulate the imbalance that a normal laundry load would produce and so, after he left, the noise was , of course, still there.
    Well, I decided I would have to fix it myself so I took off the access plate at the back and, within about 2 minutes, determined that the cause was a loose bolt securing the gear case to the chassis.
    That is the one and only time I have ever admitted an “appliance repairman” into my home. They’re perfectly useless idiots. I can’t believe that guy charged you $129 to come by and look at it only to give you a wrong diagnosis. Actually, it’s only too believable. Since my initial experience I’ve repaired all my appliances myself, saving a lot of money and actually having the machines work again.

  505. Romi Says:

    WOW. I found this blog bc my Kenmore Frontloader has a small leak from the door, and I wanted to find an easy fix. Imagine my surprise! What awaits me… I wish I would’ve found it sooner. Would’ve bought the cheap top-load that lasts 20 years. Thank-you for all the information, the video, etc… so with all this, has anyone heard of a possible recall? I payed almost $800 in 2006.
    NOT going to pay $129 for a service call.

  506. Tally Haugh Says:

    The really sad thing in all this is the lack of help on reparability issues from the place you might expect to find out about a bad appliance, namely Consumer Reports magazine (and website). The Consumers Union’s product evaluations are way too concentrated on convenience features and on “how does it work during the first week?” I cannot recall ever seeing CU get a mechanical engineer to tear down some hot new product and evaluate whether it looks flimsy under the cover.

    For reliability predictions, Consumers Union relies way too much on simpleminded brand surveys. These surveys always happen long after the product failures are history and are subject to the quirky memories of consumers and possibly are subject to manipulation (as when certain automotive dealers collect try to survey forms from their customers so that the dealer can fill out the satisfaction data…).

  507. MSGAL Says:

    I have the problem described in the video with the corrosion. My washer was so loud my two german shepherds ran into the laundry room!
    The washer then collided with the drier. This could have been dangerous or fatal if it has spun toward me.
    Has anyone considered a class action law suit?

  508. Andrew from Ottawa Says:

    Update: Earlier this year I reported a spider bracket failure on a Kenmore Elite HE3t washer purchased in 2002. The HE3t washer is model #110.xxx and is OEM’ed by Whirlpool, as opposed to the model #417.xxx unit depicted in the video on this blog (which is OEM’ed by Frigidaire).

    The parts cost for the stainless steel drum assembly is Cdn $469, and the plastic front tub which was damaged when the bracket broke costs Cdn $173. So the total cost for these parts (from Sears) would have been Cdn $642 + tax = Cdn $725; no thanks!

    Also in an earlier post, I asked: “Just wondering if anyone has been successful in convincing a Sears technician (or a customer service representative/supervisor) that a failed spider bracket (due to corrosion) is covered under the lifetime warranty of the stainle
    ss steel drum?” Well, I eventually managed to convince Sears after many e-mails, many 1-888 phone calls, and finally, a registered letter to the “President’s Office”.

    Originally, I thought the registered letter to the “Presient’s Office” was pretty much a waste of time, but I was running out of viable options (that didn’t involve a lawyer). It turns out, someone fairly senior in the Sears Canada customer service organization actually called me back as a result of the registered letter, and unlike all the other customer service representatives handling 1-888 calls, actually had some authority to provide relief.

    I explained the illogic of providing a “lifetime part warranty” on the washer drum which didn’t cover a broken spider bracket coupled with the fact that the spider bracket cannot be purchased seperately. I expressed great displeasure about the policy of requiring a Sears technician to install any warranted parts, i.e. I would have to pay the hourly labour fee + the $90.00 home visit fee (or whatever it’s called). I complained about the ineffectiveness of the first-level customer service representatives, etc., etc.

    In the end, the following deal was negotiated with the high-level customer service representative: I could schedule an appointment with a Sears technician to evaluate the problem with the washer, and provide a repair estimate. If I didn’t want to proceed with the repair, the $90.00 home visit fee would be refunded. If I proceeded with the repair, a $150 credit would be applied to the repair bill.

    It turns out that the Sears technician, along with his/her manager, actually has the final say regarding if/when a part is covered under warranty. I figured that “accepting” the deal would get me one step closer to obtaining a free drum assembly, and I wouldn’t be $90.00 out of pocket for trying.

    I’ve disassembled the washer (the night after the spider arms broke), and had all the parts neatly laid out on the garage floor, so when the technician arrived I could immediately launch into a discussion about the “illogic of providing a ‘lifetime part warranty’ on the washer drum which didn’t cover a broken spider bracket coupled with the fact that the spider bracket cann ot be purchased seperately. Well, the technician, and the person at the parts warehouse, agreed to provide a drum assembly under warranty, and it took only 1/2 hour to re-assemble! I had to pay for the plastic front tub and the home service fee, but with the $150 credit, my total out of pocket cost was about $229.00. Not perfect, but not too bad either, IMO.

  509. frank Says:

    Andrew from Ottawa:

    Glad to see you got your machine repaired! However, I have to say that I don’t think there are too many people out there who are prepared to go through that much trouble and wait that long without a washing machine, since it’s a rather essential machine for everyday life. How many hours would you say you spent on the whole deal vs how much money you actually saved, and take into consideration how long you were without the use of the washer? In retrospect, would you say it was worth it?

  510. Margo Says:


  511. David F Says:

    To Margo and others.
    I don’t think well water on its own is corrosive to aluminium, which is the material of the spider. Please see my posts from 16th September 2009 onwards.
    Aluminium is corroded when immersed in an aqueous solution with a pH below about 4.0 and above about 8.0. ph is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, 7.0 is neutral, 0.0 is totally acid and 14 is totally alkaline. Some detergents are alkaline as is sodium hypochorite (bleach). To find out the ph of a chemical do an internet search for the chemical’s Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS (e.g. sodium hypochlorite Material safety data sheet) Some detergents also have their MSDS on the internet. As a generalisation the powder detergents have a higher ph, often over 8.0 but the liquids particulary the ‘HE’ ones do not. This however is not true in all cases and you need to find the ph value of ‘your’ particular detergent and don’t forget the addition of laundry aids, like ‘bleach’, fabric softener etc will alter the pH of yor washing/rinsing solution so if you get a pH above 8.0 you are likely to get corrosion of the aluminium components.
    Further don’t forget that even at the end of the last spin a swall quantity of water will be left behind. This water will contain very small quantities of the laundry aids you have used, ie will be very diluted, but as the water evaporates the concentration of your laundry aids will increase until such time as the pH rises above 8.0 when corrosion will commence albeit very slowly.
    To see what bleach will do to aluminium find a small scrap piece without a coating,or make sure you remove the coating put one drop of bleach, straight out of the the bottle onto the aluminium, leave it overnight and see the little pile of corrosion products you have the following morning.

  512. Larry Says:

    Is it just me, or is this water argument ridiculous? In my old place we had the worst water imaginable, and the old washer lasted over twenty years. If aluminum is corrosive under various water conditions, why would a manufacturer use it in a washer where the part is submerged in water and soap? The repairmen can explain all the reasons in the world why the part failed, but the fact is, the manufacturer used the wrong material, and their reasoning is very suspicious. At the least they could have put a bigger sticker on the front warning potential customers that this washer will fall apart without pristine water and soap. There were no warnings whatsoever when I bought my washer, about five years back.

    It is kind a company building a bike with plastic wheels, and then saying you shouldn’t have ridden on pavement when the wheels wear out.

  513. effee Says:

    The reason manufacturers use aluminum instead of stainless steel is simple-they sell more machines as replacements. Obviously you sell a lot more washers in a given period of time if a washer lasts 5 or 6 years instead of 20 years or more. Technology is advanced enough that we could build machines to last a lifetime with little or no repair but they would cost a lot more and the manufacturers would be putting themselves out of business if they did this. It’s all about maintaining jobs and profits.

  514. David F Says:

    To ‘effee’ and ‘Larry’ I agree with you both but from what I can surmise it is one of three things:-
    1. The manufaturers and sellers of these machines want to increase their ‘bottom line’ and to do this this deliberately design in parts that will fail within a predictable time. Then introduce extremely high costs, plus labour costs, for the re[placement parts that will make it more economic for the average ‘poor Joe’ in the street to buy a new machine than repair the old one, hence they sell more machines.
    2. The design team missed the significance of the material corrosion potential in the first instance and the management team now considered it cheaper to ‘weather the storm’ than admit that they all screwed up in the first instance.
    3. The cost of openly admitting 2. above will lead to such a massive recall and/or lawsuits thst they will fold under the ‘pressure’ and are hoping no one will be able to put 2 and 2 together.
    Now here is a kicker. Prior to my need to replace the bearings in our machine my wife had been complaining of a ‘mouldy, mildewy smell’ on our laundry, particulary the towels.
    After I ‘repaired’ our washer my wife says there is no more ‘smell’.
    What has altered?
    The bearings and seal have been renewed, the tub and spider have been renewed (with materials the same as those removed). The only thing missing is the ‘deposit” I found on the spider when I dismantled our machine.
    Conclusion, the ‘deposit’ causes the smell. Now does the ‘deposit’ cause its own ‘smell’ or does it hold substances that otherwise attract mould and cause the ‘smell’? I don’t know! However I do know that with the ‘deposit’ gone my wife is nolonger complaining about the smell. You draw your own conclusions.
    We have altered our laundry practices to reduce the amount of chemicals corrosive to aluminium that we use and will await, if we live long enough, the results of our efforts.

  515. superdad Says:

    After ripping apart my washer this evening, I’m no more impressed by Sears. Wether it be Fridgidare, or Whirlpool. In fact I have seen this same strategy used by the failing American auto industry for years. It disgusts me to see such acts of flagrant uncareing for public economy, and enviromental well being as this.All in the name of profit and greed.Now we simply need to see Obama dole out the wealth of these hackers of industry to us simple slobs working for a living. And drive out those 40 million dollar executives into the cold and teach them the meaning of Kraft Dinner.
    Now i’f you’l excuse my rantings, Ill see If i can get Sears to pay for this huge expense. not that they even care, nor have the balls to do any-thing about it. Geuss i’ll just go to work in dirty clothes again…Bastards…

  516. Rita Says:

    Okay, I too own a Kenmore frontloading washer and dryer. Purchased the new pair 5 years ago. Would not know how to fix them if they died.
    I have nummular eczema ,which is a dermatitis on my arms and legs mostly. Can’t use fragrant detergents and was told to use liquid free and clear All to help the eczema. I’ve used liquid detergent forever.
    About 6 months after purchasing, the Kenmore washer started showing mold spots on the rubber gasket in the front where the door closes. Just figured I needed to leave the door open to help dry it out. Door stays open when ever not in use and the mold is still growing. I used straight bleach on a white cotton cloth to clean the gasket to no avail. Eczema worsens around mold environments. I would love to know what is causing the mold. It’s also growing in the detergent dispenser. After each use I also slide out the dispenser, pour out the remaining water , turn it upside down on the top of the washer on a clean white towel to dry. Then I take a clean white towel to dry the area where the dispenser drawer goes. This is a lot of trouble for something that suppose to make my life easier. Yeah Right?
    The dryer was operating fine until this past summer. I turn on the automatic dry setting. The dryer stops and the clothes are still more than damp??? I start the dryer again on same setting…it runs for about 5 minutes and stops again.
    Wished I keep my old Whirlpool top loading washer and dryer of 20 years. Guess I feel for the less water/less detergent/less energy/more load capacity gimmick. They never said anything about: be careful of mold growing on the gasket??? I too am tired of being taken advantage of with these poorly made products to take our hard earned money. Get the law suite going, I’m in for sure.
    Just for the record, my house of only 17 years old is very clean. Mold should not grow in clean enviroments I don’t think. If anyone has suggestions regarding the mold issue or the dryer stopping while clothes are still wet, I’m all ears.
    And, I appreciate all these postings.

  517. David F Says:

    To Rita,
    I believe “All Free Clear” contains the following compounds, sodium carbonate, and sodium sulphate, amongst others.
    Sodium carbonate is corrosive to aluminium, and sodium sulphate is not compatible with aluminium, this is according to the material safety data sheets for these materials available on ‘the web’. The products resulting from this corrosion and incompatability are easily mistaken for mold.
    Now I don’t know if your machine has any aluminium components, but I think it is highly likely that the spider is aluminium, this COULD help explain why you are getting ‘mold’.
    As I have stated above ‘bleach’, sodium hypochlorite, is very corrosive to aluminium.
    Sorry to be the bearing of such news

  518. Dave coe Says:

    We repaired a GE with the broken spider. Used an automotive 4 wheel drive hub, had to machine it of course. Bolted to an 1/8″ steel plate, then to the SS drum. coated all in plastice. Working fine right now. bearing were OK, will watch them for future.
    Alunimum corrodes in water envirolment, it should have been coated or used SS.

  519. superdad Says:

    After numurous calls, Sears is willing to pay for the failed spider assembly, however, they don’t cover the labour cost. As well they will not allow you to get the part free. They(Sears) will send a repair man at your expense and do the repairs. Again at your expense for the labour. This is unacceptible in my opinion, and I’m with Rita on this. Class Actoin Law Suit Against both Sears and Kenmore for this injustice.

    Any third grade student knows aluminium should not be exposed in water for long periods of time. How is it engineers designed a part that would be in direct contact with water in this way as the spider assembly is.

    It is therfore my opinoin that this part was deliberatly designed to fail within a certain amount of time.Ensureing more sales of newer machines. I still wonder how much these IDIOTS get paid.
    They certainly have no idea of what the average person pays to simply keep his children well fed educated and in clean clothes.

    The obvious disregard of thier clientele shows how little they stand behind thier products. And by the way, this is not my only Kenmore appliance with problems…

    Very p–d off.

  520. amy Says:

    Same problem. Kenmore front-loader purchased in spring of 2002. Clunking started today, 7 years later.

    Thanks for ripping off a single mom, Sears. Love ya too. Buying elsewhere now.

  521. James Joyce Says:


    Your post is right on! They just ripped off another mother!! I wrote a post on this exact circumstance many moons ago! Real heroes!!! Why is this scam allowed to continue? The truth in this matter is; pathetic. The racket employed by “Electrolux,” of Sweden who bought “Whirlpool” and its enablers, is a beauty!

    Corporate slime in corporate crime exploit people for profit all the time! I wonder how much a “spider bracket” cost in American dollars, manufactured in India? We all get duped again……..

  522. Bette Says:

    ME TOO! single mom of two, bought this washer brand new exactly 7 yrs ago to the day and last night ..it went
    I called a tech who thinks the strut broke and it will cost 200-300 dollars to fix. He is going to look at it tomorrow.
    I really thought spending as much as I did to buy it, I was going to have it for 15 yrs….
    I also notice that I am constantly cleaning the dispenser and front door as it always moldy..no matter what detergent or how much I clean it, the mold comes back instantly
    I am so upset at this unexpected repairbill so close to the holidays. just did not see this one coming
    Thank you SEARS! I will never buy another appliance from you again!

  523. David F Says:

    To Bette,
    Sorry to say it but the more I get into this the worse it gets. I now have reason to believe that nearly all (if not all) North American ‘Front loading’ machines use an Aluminium spider.Should this be correct there is no way rounf the corrosion problem exceptto alter your/our laundry habits to eliminate the use ‘laundry aids’ including detergents, that are corrosive to aluminium.

  524. superdad Says:

    To David F.
    As I stated, any third grade student knows aluminum and water don’t match.We had demonstratoins in science class to prove corossive abilities of water. Simple water and aluminum… Duh.. of course additives in detergent speed up the process. My point, is that these engineers knew it before productoin, and probably were reprimanded if they, mentoined it to thier superiors.Therefore it is plausible to believe that even Sears knew it to be a problem, and in the name of profit chose to cover thier tracks and go ahead with the grand deceptoin of millions of clientele, who in turn had relied on a house-hold name in trust.
    In short F__K me once shame on you. F__K me twice won’t happen here.
    I fully intend, in my own time to see to it that there is a full inquirey into this fiasco. And will also see to it that possible lawful actoins be taken against not only Sears, but also Fridigaire, one of the manufacturers of the faulty machines. I will be keeping all of you up-dated with my quarrel, and expect to have a specific web-site against this injustice soon up and running.
    I think a large part of what Seras has forgotten is how powerful the Internet can be as a simple tool…


  525. David F Says:

    To Superdad (Chris)
    Thank you for your comments. However before we go any further would you please try a very easy experiment to verify your claim that simple water and aluminium are incompatible? Just take a piece of tinfoil (aluminium) about 2 inches square, fold it in half twice so you have piece about 1 inch square and place it in a glass or plastic container, preferably clear so you can see what is going on, of ordinary tap water. Then wait for anything to happen. This should replicate the experiment you say you saw. I will be very, very surprised if anything happens.
    I appreciate your frustration and likely feel much the same as you do with respect to the builders and sellers of these machines but I believe something is missing from your description of the experiment if the end result was corrosion, be it galvanic or chemical, of the aluminium.
    David F

  526. effee Says:

    With respect to the last comment I have to point out that it is the high alkalinity of detergents that causes rapid corrosion of submerged aluminum parts in a washing machine. I have a top loading GE washer that suffered a failed aluminum hub that supports the spin basket after only about 3 1/2 years use, and it is made of aluminum about 3/16″ thick! If you want to see the effect of detergents on bare aluminum just look at your aluminum cookware-cookie sheets, pie pans, etc. after a number of tips through a dishwasher. They develop a heavy frosting of aluminum oxide quite rapidly.

  527. David F Says:

    To effee,

    Thank you for your comments. To see what the various solutions will do repeat the above experiment three times but instead of just tap water use undiluted chlorine bleach in one test and a strong solution of water and a high pH powder detergent in the second, as a reference use tap water only in the third. You can run all three experiments simultaneously.
    I agree that the higher the alkalinity (pH above 7.0) the greater the chances of corrosion.

    With respect to the results from the above I expect that there will be nothing to report with the water alone, I don’t really expect much, if anything with the detergent and water, with the ‘bleach’ (sodium hypochlorite) I don’t expect much of the tinfoil to be left after twentyfour hours.
    Please let us know your results.
    David F

  528. superdad Says:

    David F.
    I’m not here to conduct science experiments. I’m here to try and make both Sears and Fridigaire pay for thier poorly designed failure. I think we both agree that whatever the cause of rapid degeneratoin of this part is not the root cause of this injustice. I’m not a chemist, but aluminum in plain water will eventually corrode. What factors speed the process I have no interest in.My interst lies simply in the fact that some idiot came up with a plan to screw the general populatoin out of more money, after the fact.
    And since I have not had the failed part sent out to a lab to determine what it’s metalurgical make-up is, we can’t even be sure it is aluminum. Looks also like white metal, or some other type of cheap metal designed to do the job, but manufactured at the least possible cost.Sears to me was supposed to be a company of trust and satisfactoin. They have betrayed thier clients, and still expect them to make more purchases. These types of practices must be stopped.And I fully intend to see them pay for thier mistakes. I have notified my local T.V. statoins’ consumer news department. And I encourage any-one else with this problem to do the same. Squeeky wheels get greased…

  529. Dave C Says:

    I just measured the depth of the aluminum spider corrosion spots, they were 3/16″ deep, about the original size of the cast material.
    A long time ago, we placed an aluminum temporary bracket to a sumerged well pump. Two weeks later, pulled it again, was a total mass of white corrosion.

  530. David F Says:

    To Dave C.
    Thank you for your input. Yours is the first ‘post’ I have seen claiming to have first hand experience of corrosion, of aluminium, by ‘well’ water.
    I am presuming that the well you speak of was in an area with a lot of limestone, calcium carbonate (CaCO3), in the ground.
    I grew up in an area with a lot of limestone in the ground and there was a lot of ‘lime’ in our water, it tasted good to drink but played havoc with water heaters, hot water pipes, kettles and the like, but I cannot remember any problems with aluminium utensils, and we had them.
    Water (H2O) in contact with the air will absorb carbon dioxide (CO2) and form a weak solution of carbonic acid (H2CO3); rain falling through the atmosphere will pick up more than a river flowing overland. This solution will flow over, and percolate through the earth, and will dissolve some of the solids therein. The calcium carbonate will react with the carbonic acid and become calcium bicarbonate [Ca(HCO3)2].
    That being said apparently when the water becomes saturated with calcium bicarbonate it has a pH slightly in excess of 10.0 this would explain the corrosion of your temporary bracket. We learn something everyday.
    The irony of this is, it will be the cold water that causes the corrosion, because when heated the calcium bicarbonate decomposes into calcium carbonate (the ‘lime’ in water heaters etc), water and carbon dioxide (which is driven off as hot water cannot absorb as much as cold water).
    Was the aluminium spider you speak of used with your ‘well water’?
    Thank you, you drove an old man back to his books. Its pushing 40 years since I last dealt with any of this chemistry.
    David F

  531. Andy D Says:

    Just took apart my Kenmore front loader, model #417.43042200, after seeing this website and bingo……totally corroded spider arm. And it is just over 4 years old…..unbelievable. Have to try and find the manual and see what the warranty actually says. Does anyone have the correct warranty info for the US? I would need to replace the whole plastic tub as well as it is almost worn thru in a couple spots. Whole assembly online is $554. Not worth it if it is just going to crap out again in 4 more years. Time to buy something new but not before I give my local Sears an earful.

  532. David F Says:

    To Andy D,
    Reference your post of 15 November 2009.
    The manual I have for a 2001, ‘417’ machine purchased in 2001,in the USA states
    “Limited Lifetime Warranty on Stainless Steel Wash Basket
    For the lifetime of the washer from the date of purchase, Sears will replace the stainless steel wash basket if it is defective in material or workmanship. You must pay the labor cost to have it installed”
    Significantly, I think, for our ‘970’ machine, purchased a couple of years ago in Canada no such reference is made.
    As a suggestion, rather than replacing the outer tub(s) why not use an epoxy to build up the scored areas?
    As a word of warning, just changing brands would not appear to be of any help, almost all, if not all, of the front loading machines readily available in North America appear to have aluminium spiders.
    From reading other posts on the subject it appears that you may be able to ‘get’ a spider and tub assembly from Sears if you grovel in the correct manner. However Sears will insist that an ‘authorized technician’ examine the failed part and fit the replacement, at your expense, two visits. This will negate any saving you may get by doing the job yourself. Not a satisfactory arrangement in my view particularly as the above noted ‘warranty’ makes no mention of ‘authorized technicians’ or similar. In my humble view the wife buying you a six-pack for fixing it is payment enough and should satisfy the requirement that you pay for the labor.

  533. Andy D Says:

    To Dave F……thanks for the information. I’m heading to Sears tomorrow to see what they have to say for themselves. If they do replace the tub and spider I will try an epoxy on the plastic tub. Should last until the new spider fails! I appreciate the help. Stay Well.

  534. Todd Says:

    Has anyone manufactured this basket assembly using quality S.S. to avoid the failure of the aluminum. From what I understand the chemicals in the detergent’s actually attack aluminum. It is made of cast aluminum ..the cheapest possible way to make the part. as far as I am concerned it is doomed to fail with a manufacture design like that.

  535. David F Says:

    To Todd
    The only one I have found, so far, that does not use aluminium spiders, and it is not a ‘front loader’ but a ‘horizontal axis top loader’, is the ‘Staber’. Staber do not use ‘spiders’ as such but ‘shafts’ that are made of stainless steel.
    Should anyone be aware of any others please let me know.
    Thank you

  536. Chris A Says:

    I have the Whirlpool version of this washing machine, and the berings and seal went out of the tub rather violently. I was able to find the berings with no problem at the local supply store, but NO ONE including sears and all the local appliance repair shops can get the seal that keeps water out of the berings. I have had no luck finding it online either. Help! I don’t want to buy the whole back half of the tub just to get that one seal($240)!!!

  537. David F Says:

    To Chris A
    I don’t know where you are located. Here in Canada ‘Kinecor’ have branches in all Provinces and the NWT. They charged me C$5.20, plus tax for the 40x80x10DL metric seal for my Frigidaire model. I know that is little help to you and the seal is not exactly the same as the one that came out but I see no reason why it should not do the job.
    Back to your case. Should you be located in the USA you will need to measure the outside diameter of the housing that the seal fits into (that is the 80mm in my case) and the diameter of the shaft or sleeve on which it runs (40mm in my case) and then the thickness of the seal (10mm in my case). Someone with a little knowledge of ‘seals’ will need to examine the old one to determine what type it is, (DL for ‘double lip’ in my case). Should you not have the eqipment to accurately measure the components yourself a ‘Seal Supplier’, like ‘Kinecor’, or a local machine shop should be able to help. Then order the seal from a ‘seal supplier’, the Yellow pages of the internet may be helpful there
    Two things to watch when you are reassembling your machine, put a little grease between the two lips of the seal, I used car wheel bearing grease on mine, and make sure the side of the seal that is ‘complete’, ie with no joints, faces the water side.
    Hope this helps a little.
    Good Luck

  538. Jan M Says:

    I purchased a Kenmore HEplus2 in Feb. 2008. Sears repairman was here two days ago.The tub of my washer is lying on the floor. “Balance block broke off the tub and broke the shocks. Needs new tub and shocks.” Cost for repair $859.52 I only paid around $800 for the machine. Sears absolutely will not help in any way because the warranty is up as they repeated several hundred times as I spent three hours on the phone with them. They could not give me telephone numbers or email addresses for help with this situation. I have been totally ripped off. I have found it impossible to reach Kenmore.
    I am turning to the local TV stations and consumer affairs but doubt there is much help out there for me. Needless to say, I am a single person and have no money for a new wash machine.

  539. Dave C Says:

    We took apart a working Kenmore front loader with the idea to clean and halt
    the corrosion before the machine broke apart. Corrosion had not progressed
    too far although a few deep pits had actually become holes. This machine was
    marked Frigidaire on the plastic housing as compared to the GE machine we
    worked on earlier that was cast Electrolux. After disassembly, the big
    problem was removing the 6 stainless bolts. They are about 5/16 metric built
    with a slight triangular form. Even thought we got every bolt to move a few
    degrees, we broke off four of them. A true round bolt would have probably come
    out. We did use penetrant and heat, but was no help. We sandblasted the
    spyder, and it was still structurally sound. Drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes
    as needed, exactly on 1″ centers. Trimmed the 3 screws that stick out too far.
    We then spray coated the spyder with several coats of plasti-dip. This is an
    unknown, hope it works. Used never-seize on the bolts on re-assembly.
    With auto work this has become standard practice for me.
    If this seems like a lot of work, building a replacement spyder as we did on
    the other machine is a lot more work.
    Dave C

  540. tony Says:

    A message to all; My Kenmore is also falling apart, do not think your comments or troubles will be in vain. If each person who has ever logged onto this site or just read the comments, and tells just one person, imagine the snowball effect this is having on Kenmore’s business in the long run. We all know rumors travel fast, but truths and negative comments travel fast AND far. I myself will never again purchase a Kenmore appliance. I have already steered three people away from Kenmore’s business.

  541. Dave C Says:

    For Jan M::
    If the balance block is the cement block bolted to the tub, there is a
    small one on the back of the outer tub, or the larger one on the front.
    Sounds like a fluke of a problem.
    What would work here are the parts left over from a broken spyder machine.
    The front outer tub is never damaged, use it. Use the rear tub if the
    groves are not too deep, or just fashion some brackets bolted to the tub
    to hold the balance block in place. Rob the shocks off the broken
    machine too. You need a handy man to do this. Dave C

  542. Roman K. Says:

    To all of you “lucky” owners of HE2 model 110.. We had our washer for 3 years an it worked fine (beside some mold on the gasket). What I discovered is that nut witch holds fly wheel on the shaft comes loose and drum starts making clunking sound. If you start hearing clunking sound take back panel off and tighten that nut. It should help prolong life of berings.
    I’m selling my pair tomorrow, as a replacement we got Kenmore that made by Samsung. We’ll se what happens to that one.
    It’s sad to see that Whirlpool and Frigidaire manufacturing crap for Kenmore.

  543. Joe Says:

    I came here looking for a frigidaire washer problem and cant believe so many people with the same problem and no class action suit yet. In reading regarding the spider arms, if you are doing the repair yourself and have the part, make sure you get the one that comes bolted,not the welded one.Before installing make sure to dissasemble the spider arms and coat them with some layers of anticorrosion paint. This should retard the corrosion that makes the spider arms brake. If you can take the arm assembly along to your nearer machine or solder shop and explain the problem and where they brake ,they may be able to solder some reinforcing plates or sticks of metal in the area they break the most. Then apply the anticorrosive paint before installing and that should help for some years more.

  544. tony Says:

    I would be skeptical about welding/soldering anything onto the spider arm as could throw off the balance and cause another problem.
    I live very close to a powder coat shop, there I would suggest having the spider arm powder coated. But probably it would be a better idea to just replace the washer.

  545. Tim Says:

    Just found this website after spending the morning taking apart my 9 year old Kenmore frontloader. It had a loud knocking noise that I assumed was a bearing problem and would be an easy fix. You all know what I found. Corroded and broken spider assembly.
    Thanks for all the great posts. I share in your pain. Guess I’ll buy myself a new drum for Christmas.

  546. Tom Says:

    Same story here! The spider cracked on mine as well and the service guy couldn’t figure it out after $80 service call. So I replaced the tub/spider assembly myself. The spider is NOT sold seperatly! This was about 3 years ago. Guess what I think it broke again today! I’m performing surgery on it tomorrow. One youtube post claimed he got the whole tub/spider assembly for free. I will try harder with Sears this time to get something out of them…if it’s the same problem. I considered painting or graesing the spider before re-installing last time around but it might have eventually
    soiled the clothes somewhere down the road.

  547. Mikew Says:

    Evidently if you bought the Whirlpool version (exact same washer) and you purchased it anywhere EXCEPT Sears, they’ll replace the tub and spider assembly under the provisions of tub warranty.
    Not Sears, though.

    Mine was a bit worse, the tub got out of alignment and also broke the outer ABS tub.

    $350 in parts alone, and an afternoon of fun unscrewing about a zillion screws.

  548. Eric Says:

    Where is the class action lawsuit page?!

    I purchased the Frigidaire version of this front loader in 2000, model FWT647GHS. In 2006 after the warranty was gone, we got the loud thumping/banging sound during the spin cycle. A technician determined the rear drum bearing had gone bad and the parts with labor were near the price of a new one.

    We had purchased this washer with a matching dryer to stack them in a narrow closet. Stupidly, we bought another of the same type…”maybe they’ve improved the design…” (wishful thinking). So now, 3 years after replacing with Frigidaire’s newer version: LTF530DS, the banging returned in my 2nd washer during the spin cycle. I called customer service and got the “part concession” that they will cover any and all parts needed to repair this unit, but I’m concerned the labor will be expensive. Plus I’ll have to pay just to have someone come out to look at it. I requested they cover labor, but I couldn’t get further with the call center woman.

    Last time I wrote a letter of complaint to Frigidaire, which was responded to, but without any concessions.

    There is definitely a class action lawsuit here, between the screws etching out the plastic in the tub (as in the video at the top) and the bearings and spider arms that fail so readily…

  549. Mikew Says:

    Well much later that night I’m nearly done (needed a beer to calm my nerves, and 3 bandaids for my hands).
    I got the basket with spider bracket plus a new rear plastic tub because of the broken old one for $350 plus tax.
    For the inner baffles I used shorter screws (the ones for the back of the washing machine, the longer screws can hold the back on).
    I look forward to calling Sears tomorrow to cancel their $85.00 house call and probable $700 repair estimate.
    One trick, when you’re taking it apart, is first disconnect everything from the inner drum, including the shocks, but leave the springs on. Then, take off the belt wheel, the concrete top of the back drum, and then lay the washer on its back. With the washer on its back, you can remove the springs, and then you tilt up the frame but the drum stays on the floor. Well anyway that’s my lesson of the day for the DIY’er out there.

  550. Lynn Says:

    We purchased our Kenmore front loader in 2002 and it died on us two weeks ago. Same loud clunking noise reported here. The repair estimate was over $700, so when we have the money, we’ll be buying a new one. There are only two of us and we’ve used ONLY Tide liquid HE detergent in it. Does anyone recommend a more reliable brand of washer? My previous washers lasted 15 or more years. A friend says they’re all now intentionally built to last only 7 years or less.

  551. tony Says:

    I owned a Maytag for 22 years, top loaded, and it still works. I replaced it four years ago with a Kenmore top loader, it is starting to fall apart, just like the rest your’s. I still own the old top loader, which is probably what i will purchase again when this front loader falls apart.

  552. tony Says:

    Whoops, my post should say Kenmore ” front ” loader.

  553. Mario Says:

    This blog is so valuable and big thanks to tanksalotct for making the vid. We’ve had our kenmore about 4yrs w/ no problems (knock on wood). The one complaint i have is that i’m not sure if my clothes are actually clean. We have lots of loads where the dirt is still there. Granted we’ve used powder more than liquid. from this blog we’ll try switching to only liquid. i also realize from this blog that i better start saving for my next washer. right now i’m gonna try to solve our “doesnt spin and drain” problem.. it agitates but doesnt spin and drain. i’ll chek the pump and let y’all know.

  554. Gary Frasco Says:

    I have used my washer for 7 years and just the other day had the clunking noise. I found one arm of the spider broken. I guess I’m going to order a new spider and drum like everyone else.
    What a rip-off. Merry Christmas Sears, thanks a lot.

  555. Peter D'Aloisio Says:

    I have four Whirlpool Duet front loaders of different ages. All but the oldest one have tub spider corrosion and/or outright failures. Why doesn’t the oldest unit (model year 2002) have a corroded spider? Well, because it is ANODIZED!! with the same sort of anodizing that is sometimes used on military equipment. I wonder why Whirlpool stopped anodizing spiders on the later machines? Maybe so some executive could get a bonus for saving money? Well, this isn’t saving their customers any money, now is it?

  556. Tim Shelby Says:

    Add another to the list – Bought ours from Sears in 2002 (417-42042100) and Sears just came out today to charge $70 bucks and deliver the bad news. The guy only turned it on and listened to our story of slow, but ever increasing water leakage and then he dropped the bomb. What a crock. We will not buy a front-load again when a top load lasts twice as long or longer and costs less…the extra water savings can’t offset the machine cost.

  557. Bruce Carlson Says:

    Real scary . . . all of these folks with the same problems. I too have one of these “monsters”.
    My wife was washing clothes the other day and she says she heard a “BOOM” sound. Well I figured it was time to take apart the “utility room monster” and see what was going on with it. Well there is now this huge hole (4″ x 6″) in the “plastic” drum, I suppose the “alien” in the “monster” had tried to get out the front door, but it was locked, so it had to just make its own way out. I found the plastic (?) part laying inside at the base of the “monsters” tub. I thought “its a good thing that the machine has a metal cabinet”, otherwise this plastic piece would have gone thru the wall into my neighbors yard.
    Well, anyway, after reading these posts I assume that I to will get nothing but grief, following the steps above to get my “monster” fixed !
    Will check back and see when we all get a new “monster”.

  558. Tim Branstetter Says:

    You can “tame your monster” if you are going to tackle the job yourself. My broken spider assembly ended up knocking a hole in the back of the plastic drum, however when replacing the basket and spider assembly I was able to epoxy the broken piece back in place. I figure it should last at least as long as the new spider assembly.
    Next time I’m throwing it out.

  559. tony Says:

    Am just wondering, why are most people repairing these things, 350 – 500$ when they know this will happen again. I also am having the same problem, mine has not fell apart yet, though when it does, i will replace it with a top loader…just wondering

  560. Tim Says:

    It’s just a matter of economics.
    I repaired my washer for $230.00.
    A new one is $900.00 to a $1000.00.
    Seems to me if you can get 4 to 7 years service after the repair it is worth the investment. And the washer didn’t end up in a landfill.

  561. its all good....NOT Says:

    I purchased my wonderful front load washer from my local Sears store in the fall of 2000. I was getting divorced and wanted to be sure I had a good quality washer and dryer to last a good many years. Out on your own no credit where do you go. your local sears store to start building credit for yourself. … I am thank full I guess that my Spider arm lasted this long. I called Sears this morning had a very nice woman who finally understood the part I was asking about (on call # 4). She told me the parts could not be purchased separately. I said I do not need the hole thing the spider arm is the only part broken. She said well maybe the is a warranty about it and it would be covered for just the labor. I said well it is already apart in my garage so can you just send e the part I can not afford a repair tech. She forwarded me to the warranty department. I had the great pleasure of a woman who was clearly from another country who did not care one bit. (cheap labor I guess). She would not let me explain anything she kept cutting me off and saying I need to send a tech there is no one here you can speak to, i said I would like to speak to someone else, a supervisor perhaps and she replied well you will have to call back and hung up on me…. I am not just going to let this go. Better Business Bureau here I come.

    I find it completely frustrating that no one can help….!!!

    keep me in the know should there ever be a class action suit I think we ALL deserve some type of compensation for our time and trouble. never mind lugging the wet laundry home to dry after washing it at the Laundry mat.

  562. janet Says:

    same problem here. always used h e detergent. seems to be designed to fail at around 6 years. told no warranty. alot of work and expense. I also am bothered by the fact that you have to purchase the entire tub spin or drum what ever you want to call it. I feel the manufacturer should be held accountable for this faulty part. I will never buy another kenmore , ellectollux or whirlpool, maybe I will find a better brand.

  563. janet Says:

    I forgot to mention, I asked the parts warehouse if this was a common problem before finding this site, snd she flat out said no one usually orders the drum that it was unusual. haha ha. Btw we are really struggling to get the boot back together. more info on this step would be nice.

  564. Bruce Carlson Says:

    When will they get it that we (washer owners) can fix these things ourselves (we don’t need an engineering degree), let us buy the “STINKING PART” that we need !!
    It used to be that Sears said “where America shops” BAH HUMBUG to you guys anyways !!
    Its no wonder that they are loosing customers, if I did this to my customers, I too would soon be closing my doors.
    Maybe the Sears wigs have a better washer then we do, suppose we send them “one of ours” as a Holiday Gift !!
    Whos’ in ?

  565. Robert Says:

    So has anybody had any success in finding a spider or even a drum assembly for a reasonable price?

  566. tim shelby Says:

    just left this on fridgidaire’s web site -

    Please note WE will not be buying ANY Fridgidaire products in the future due to the poor design and reliabilty of the 417-42042100 product. My complaints have been register on many web sites for consumers to review.


    Just this week I have purchased a brand new MAYTAG washer to replace your short lived product and I have purchased a MAYTAG refrigerator to replace a 20 yr old Amana.

  567. ceb64 Says:

    I’ve owned Whirlpool top loaders for twenty years with no problems. Was looking to purchase Kenmore front loaders before I came across this web site. Thanks.

  568. robert williams Says:

    I have had one for about 8 years and still working.
    Checks the screws for the inside plastic tumble parts and they are 1/2″ total length. Have used liquid soap and we have very soft water so that is why the corrosion has not set in. Yet it is noisy on spin but has been that way for years. Had replace on of the motors a few years ago. Have it saved as only one brush seems to wear out. As far as the control board It seemed to be a bad solder joint by the connector that had to be reflowed and added a bit extra solder. Have the gas dryer and not any issues. maybe I am the luckiest owner having used it for so long with heavy use.

  569. James Koch Says:

    Disassembled my Kenmore today after it got much louder and less effective in the final spin cycle. Spider arm shaft has corroded away from the arms themselves (which are still attached to one another just fine). Tough to tell bearing condition but I bet the 20 minutes of prying the pulley off w/ a screw driver didn’t help them any (wish I had a puller on hand, in hindsight). Machine built in 2002.

  570. Wade Says:

    Looks like my 5-year old, Elite HE-4 is starting to tap/bang one side of the cabinet during the spin cycle. “Basket Assy -Part # 8182247 Sears=$521; Appliance Parts Solutions=$390. It only does it when the load is slightly off, so I’m hoping it may last a while. It’s a 110 model, and I have no idea how long it will last or if I’m doing more damage by continuing to run it. We’ve certainly used the hell out of it so far (6-8 loads/wk)and it will cost me some time & money to fix. Yes, our last, old unit was a 23 year old, top-loading Kenmore made of Iron, and was working when I left it at the house we sold. Nothing I couldn’t fix on it with just a spool of wire, $10, and 2 hours. So… welcome to the new millennium. (Sigh*)

  571. Marc Dion Says:

    We used to love Kenmore products – not anymore!!

    Our brand new Kenmore He Front Loads only lasted two years!!!

    They’re off to the dump today (what a waste of both $1,000 and landfill space!!). The washer seal started leaking all over the laundry room floor, and the dryer just stopped working (it would still turn on but wouldn’t do anything).

    So, we replaced them with GE uprights. NEVER AGAIN will I buy Kenmore washer or dryers!!!

  572. Zaug Says:

    Thanks to all who have shared their information.
    I was lucky, only the bearings worn out; spider arm in good shape. However, I thought I would remove the basket from the arm to clean it thoroughly, but the bolts would not budge. I sprayed them with a bit of lubricant, but only to hopefully forestall any additional corrosion; I did not try to remove them after.
    Anyway, it is much smoother and quieter, now.
    Right, so before reading all of this and realizing that at least my bearings were in need of replacement I had already been introduced to the poor design of this machine.
    A little over a year ago I noticed the machine banging more than usual. Sure enough one of the shock/dampeners was broken at the end. Well the part was easily found, as it was a top seller, isn’t that interesting?! Well, for $27.00 plus shipping surely I could figure out something.
    So, here it is:
    I drilled two holes through the main part, just large enough to allow some standard tie wire (start with pieces about 3 inches long) to thread through. I then put the broken bit in place and wrapped and twisted tight the tie wire and trimmed the excess; leave at least a couple of full twists or it will come apart. As can be seen from the photo, use has opened a small gap between the broken pieces, but it causes no issues. As I mentioned, this has been working for over a year and has been just about a year since fixing other shock the same way. I actually think that this is a good bit more durable than a replacement would have been; and about $26.98 cheaper times two.
    Hope this tip is useful to someone, as I am very grateful for the help that this page provided to help me figure out the cause of the issues with my machine.

  573. Dave C Says:

    This is for Zang. You were smart to leave the SS bolts in place.
    In my post of Nov 29-09 (there are 2, plus post Oct 26-09) I mention that the bolts are triangular and very difficult to remove. At least 50/50 chance of breaking.

  574. Jeff Says:

    Add another one to the list! Purchased my Kenmore Front Load in August 2003 and it gave out in January 2010. The spider arm corroded and punched a huge whole in the outer tub, spilling water all over my hallway. (I’m in a highrise condo.) Of course the dryer is fine but because I need to stack them, I will likely have to buy a new pair…..and not from Sears!

  575. Benjamin Says:

    wow-very informative. Our unit is 6 years old and just died. It had been leaking for about 6 months. Sounds like your diagnosis is spot on. Too bad I didn’t read it before the purchase! I’d love to know which front-loading washers people have had great experiences with…

  576. Laurie Says:

    Thanks to all who have posted over the past year or two for saving me time and money. I have a Sears model 417 and I started getting brown streaks on my clothes which I thought was just a detergent issue. So, I tried all of the recommended fixes without success. My machine also started making a loud banging noise during the high spin cycle. I started taking the machine apart this morning and decided to check the Internet for info one more time. Boy, am I glad I found this information! No need in wasting anymore time or money on this piece of garbage. I’ve been going to the laundromat for the past 6 weeks so as to not ruin any more clothes. With the holidays, this is the first day I’ve had time to really look into the problem. I’m out to buy a new washer – but never from Sears!

  577. Bob C Says:

    Our Kenmore front loading stackable tumble action washer crapped out this week. We’ve put a lot of years on it, but never figured we’d have problems. I pulled off the back after my wife complained of very loud banging and grinding when the machine went into final spin mode. (This all before I found this site…) I’d never seen the guts of this machine, but immediately saw a large chunk of the back outer tub broken off. Seemed strange. Not so strange now that I’ve seen the fantastic video, and the history of comments on this blog reporting very similar issues.

    The question I’m pondering is whether or not to DIY the repair or to bail out on the washer. We could throw down $200 to try to fix it ourselves, but that would be a nice down payment on another machine.

    Problem is that our dryer works fine, they’re stacked in a small space in our very small house. I’m not sure if I can find a different model that would even stack with our dryer.

    Welcome your recommendations as part of our quest to catch up with our mounting piles of laundry!

    This blog has been enlightening, entertaining, informative, and reassuring.

    It’s a shame that our economy runs on crap that’s built to break and throw away.

  578. Rach Says:

    Does anytone have any problems with the washer starting….but not completing the load?

    We are sure the that washer is steady. The washer starts & goes about it’s business, but then fails. So, I do it again….fails. Sometimes, I change the dial to Drain & Spin and then SOMETIMES, it will complete the cycle.

    Either way you look at it, the clothes are “locked in”. I am sometimes having to run a cycle 5-6 times before it will comlete.

    Anyone else have this propblem??

  579. Mr. & Mrs. Wagner (Martinez, Ca) Says:

    Kenmore 44102 Front Load Washer: Purchased in 2003 new. The bearing on the back-side of the drum is grinding in 2010. Kenmore will not see our business for a while. The greasy residue from the bearing assembly has sprayed all over the inside rear of the washer. The grease/lubricant has leaked into the area between the plastic tub and the metal wash tub. We thought it was dirt build up at first. Then the repair guy showed me the inside of the plastic barrel. Holly !@#$. This has ruined over $500 worth of clothing, towells and sheets. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL!!! I will post video to YouTube later. FYI, Cost $276 for parts and $180 for labor in the San Francisco Bay Area.

  580. Don Says:

    These Kenmore He3′s suck. Bearings in ours have been replaced twice in 5 years and we’ve used nothing but HE detergent.

    Here’s the best tip. When it starts making the noise, call sears and get a proactive product plan. “Yeah it’s the new year, figured we’d start out right with insuring our investments”. The clown will suck it up and be happy to give you a 12 month price. Tell them it’s working just fine and ask about the coverage. The plan will run under $200 bucks and cover complete replacement.

    Now the hard part…keep doing your laundry and listen to that god awful jet engine sound for another 30 to 40 days. (ours did this for 9 months before getting unbearable, so your will most likely hang in there.

    at the 30 some day mark call them back and get an appointment it’s making some noise. The guy will come out, tell you it’s $1000, they’ll just replace with like unit.

    Presto. F Sears for not acknowledging the issue and get yourself covered without rolling up your sleeves. Sleep like a kitten knowing that this should have been a product recall years ago and that it’s their issue not yours.

  581. Marvin B Says:

    We also have a Sears Frigidaire (Electrolux) built in Aug 02. After a few years the spider broke. I repaired that, a year later the motor control board went and in Jan 2010 the spider went again.

    We only use HE detergent and there are two people in the house. I don’t think I will repair it this time. I will go to the local appliance repair store who repair all manufacturers junk and ask whose front load machine do they have the LEAST amount of calls or repair parts sold for.

  582. Robert Says:

    Does anybody know if a Zanussi spider hub part# 50239965002 would fit a Frigidaire front loading washer ?
    It looks exactly like the part.

  583. Robert Says:

    My 417 front loader is not rotating unless I lift on the back gently. Any ideas?

  584. Pete Says:

    Sounds like Class Action time!!!!

  585. John J. of N. Carolina Says:

    Well this is amazing, truly amazing. My experience could be that of any number of the above posts. Black streaks appeared on clothes about two months ago, thought it was just some sort of mildew from the front rubber boot near the door. I cleaned the boot off pretty well, but more streaks were showing up in following loads. Then last week there was a faint bumpy sound in the final spin. And yesterday, POW! – Bang, bang, bang…
    With not all too much searching, I came across this site, and boy, am I informed now. Sure enough, the spider bracket looks just like any number of the photos and videos posted: gross, deep pits and white bubbly corrosion all over it, with two of the arms busted off the casting very close to the hub. Also, damage to the tub is almost identical to that in the pictures above, as there are deep grooves from the screws on the basket, some deep enough to be made translucent when the tub is held toward light. And the tips of the screws had scored plastic tendrils hanging off of them; evidence of their recent work on the tub.
    This machine, what a mess.

  586. John J. of N. Carolina Says:

    I should add in the post above that we bought the machine almost seven years ago…

  587. Bruce Says:

    I have just taken apart our now dead Kenmore washing machine and videotaped the process (to a degree). It may be helpful for any of you do it yourselfers. After taking it apart I found the same problem as everyone else with this brand of washing machine, a broken spider spindle :(
    Be careful when taking it apart as there are sharp edges everywhere and heavy parts made of concrete
    (for balancing the machine when it does run).


    good luck, I am now hand washing the clothes LOL

  588. maureen Gildea Says:

    The rear shell which has the bearing in it is covered under the manufacturers warranty on these ge/frigidare/whirlpool machines for 10 years and 25 to life on drum. However…if you call they are referring to the part as rear tub. It’s actually the “outer tub”.

    Google the part # and you will see ever independent site calls it “outer tub” which is covered under warranty yet GE calls it shell/bearing. It’s the same thing. I got mine for free.

  589. maureen Says:

    correcting my last email. The outer tub is covered under warranty. They new bearing is permanently installed inside of the outer tub and can not be purchased seperately making it a faulty outer tub.

    When you call the # to get your warranty part however they send you a diagram and they have the outer tub labeled as “rear shell/bearing”.

    The rear shell IS the outer tub. If you mention that….um…they send it for free. You don’t even have to pay shipping. Doesn’t make it any more pleasant however you don’t get charged $367 + freight…the inner wash basket is also a warranty part. Read your warranty carefully particularly when purchasing a new frond loader as the bearings do wear. I wouldn’t purchase another one w/ out the bearings “outer tub” warranty.

  590. David Says:


    It appears you had great success in ordering your “warranty replacement parts” without the usual required visit by an authorized service company. Please provide your parts ordering contact information, so that we may also order our warranty parts directly without assistance or inspection by a qualified service company.

  591. maureen Says:

    The Warranty on “service” has to be provided by factory service centers or customer care. The service part is over after one year on the warranty. Just parts are warrantied. However…you mentioned it and we did in fact call the local GE service tech first and were quoted pricing on all parts before they came out as they seemed to know what is was by the description of the noise…totaling more than $600 + labor. We were also encouraged to come down to the store and purchase a brand new machine. Needless to say…the tech never disclosed all parts being covered on warranty and we would have to pay for labor only. There’s some real dishonesty and integrity issues w/ the entire thing. Seemingly enough to never want to purchase an american machine ever again. GE/frigidaire/electrolux/whirlpool/kenmore all seem to have the same issues and the parts are labeled w/ a variety of those names on our GE. Just call the phone # on your warranty for your parts warranty.

  592. David Says:


    So, GE agreed to ship you the covered warranty parts at no charge. But, it appears that Frigidaire and Kenmore brands are more reluctant to ship no charge warranty parts directly to the customer for do it yourself repairs, according to the postings here. As bad as these machines are, it seems GE warranty coverage is about best with the additional 10 year warranty on the outer tub/rear shell/bearing. Not to mention they (GE) were willing to ship these parts to you so that you could repair the machine yourself!

  593. maureen Says:

    GE did not just agree. They were very very reluctant however..I first called a GE service call. (if u read back..b4 coming out they quoted pricing that exceeded the cost of a new maching and encouraged me to come to their storefront to just purchase a new one..failing to disclose that the parts were under warranty.) The warranty states that for one year GE warranties labor. This doesn’t say that GE has to provide the labor or service call after the one year. The warranty also states that the parts are warrantied…so you can either ship them the damaged parts to get replacement if they don’t believe u or they can ship u the replacement parts under the warranty. There is no place on the warranty that states who you have to hire to replace your damaged parts. I had to call many times and finally speak to a superviser…I called the manufacturer…not the store and they did try to make me pay for a GE repair person to travel in excess of 4 hrs to my home to take a look. I didn’t fix it myself. I hired a handyman to do it. The warranty states all warranty “service” provided by out factor Service Centers…(which is only for the first year). After that…there is no warranty on service…so they can’t FORCE you to use them.

  594. JRK Says:

    I tried a similar route to get Sears to replace my inner basket, which has a lifetime warranty. I spent about 45 minutes being transferred around their phone system, trying to get info on warranty parts WITHOUT their service. I was transferred 12 times, literally in circles, where I spoke to the same department 2-3 times each, each time being passed off to someone else. Finally got to their complaints department where I tried to point out that my warranty paperwork makes no mention of needing to use THEIR technician. After 15 minutes of pleading they wouldn’t budge… Basically told me to go screw and that my only recourse was to snail-mail a letter to the corporate headquarters. Never buying Sears again…

    - A Young Man With A Lot of Buying Years Ahead

  595. maureen Says:

    I had 2 call several times and was transferred around…finally I spoke to a supervisor. She was able to assist me. The regular Ge warranty people actually tried telling me all of their appliances only come w/ a one yr warranty while i was looking at my actual warranty. was very very difficult but worth the wait…I mean who wants to spend a thousand dollars + on a washer and not have it last 15-20 yrs.

  596. Bill Says:

    I unfortunatly am the owner of a Kenmore washer Model 417. It has failed showing all the problems listed above. I believe that a class action suit should be brought against Kenmore, Sears ect. I am not in a position to do my own repairs so I am stuck with a $800 dollar washer that lasted 7 years. Never and I repeat never will I by a product from Kenmore or do business with Sears. If there is anymore info on the suit please post. Piles of dirty clothes Bill

  597. maureen Says:

    lets all post on ripoffreport.com

    lawyers go on there looking for class action possibilities

    kenmore, whirlpool, frigidaire, electrolux and ge all ue the same part inside.

  598. Eric Says:

    I just completed the repair of this Kenmore front load washer. I only replaced the rear bearing and seal, and found the spider arms pitted due to corrosion but seemingly not too far along toward fracture and failure. I decided to reassemble the machine and continue using it with only the bearing/seal replacement and no other changes/repairs other than cutting off the ends of the drum baffle sheet metal screws. The screw tips will not be the first to hit the plastic shell once the bearings start to go again or the spider arm fails.

    The repair cost me $100 ($80 for bearings and seal, $20 to get the bearings pulled out of the rear shell) plus I spent probably 10 hours on getting this thing reapaired of my time.

    Our machine was about 5 years old when the bearings began getting load but 6-3/4 years old when we started ruining clothes by getting grease on them due to complete failure of the bearings and bearing seals.

    Thanks for all the help from the contributors to this forum.

  599. Mike Says:

    My spider arm fine – gummed up with some gooey jelly that probably prevented corrosion. Also, we only use liquid detergent.

    I bought our washer 8 years ago, and shipped it to the UK when we moved back here 6 years ago. The reason being you can only buy small washing machines here.

    First thing to go was the seal between the 2 drum halves, which I replaced. Then last year the bearings went so I had to replace those. i only replaced the set that felt worn, the other set were still smooth so I left them be. Another year down the line and the bearings are starting to whir again. Soon be time for another set of bearings methinks! I’ll be interested to see which set of bearing has gone this time…

  600. Robert Says:

    Well i figured out how to deal with my kenmore washer. It is now yard art. does anyone need parts?

  601. Joy Says:

    My bearings have gone out too. The washer was purchased for around $1K in 2005. That is ridiculous and although I don’t approve of his language, “James Joyce” is right. Also, I’ve always purchased the HE detergent as instructed so I’m not sure about the link there. My brother bought a pair from BOSCH at the same time and he doesn’t have this problem.

    Now, after my husband gets home from work, he has to take the washer apart, remove the bearings, and then take them to the shop where we hope they can match them. Of course, he’ll have to wait until tomorrow to do that because they’ll be closed in an hour. Then, he’ll have to try and replace them and put the whole thing back together. And I don’t even know if the spider arm is broken yet. Guess we’ll see about that in a while. Meanwhile, laundry is piling up and we’re in the middle of a bathroom remodel that can’t get finished until this is done. Needless to say, I AM NOT HAPPY.

    My first washer (old-timey top loader washer) was from Sears. My first and second lawn mowers were from sears. Batteries? Die Hard every time. After this, I will definitely never buy anything from Sears again.

  602. norcalkid Says:

    I, too, have the dread Kenmore 417.43142200, purchased new in late 2003. It just stopped working and I have taken some of it apart to run tests on the electrical parts. The bearings seem to be fine (the drum turns fine w/no noise), but the meter readings I get indicate the main timer has gone out (~$115). Having read most of the comments here, I am wondering if it is worth repairing, given that I am able to get a (free) used top load machine.

    For those collecting information on water/corrosion issues, I wish to note that I live in a manufactured house, with all plastic plumbing. It just gets used once a week (2-3 loads) and I leave the door open between wash days, to let it air out. I have always been sparing in the use of detergent, and have mostly used concentrated liquid soaps. I never use softener, and only rarely have used bleach.

    If anyone knows about the timer or electronics, I will be checking back. (bookmarking the site)

  603. Woody Says:

    Joy, Finally someone said it.

    “My brother bought a pair from BOSCH at the same time and he doesn’t have this problem.”

    I have been servicing BOSCH since they introduced the NEXXT(now Vision) machines. I have seen ONE bearing / spider failure and it was a D.O.A. Other than that just the normal pins, pennies, socks, wrong detergent, ect calls. Not really a lot of chronic part failures.

    I have never been a fan of Sears and the Kenmore products because as has been stated prior these machines are just branded Kenmore. Sears doesn’t build anything! But there is one cure for you Sears customers. Sears has a slogan above the door of every store (unless they removed it recently) SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR YOUR MONEY BACK! I had several run in’s with Sears. Once on a water heater and the other on a treadmill. The way I finally got it resolved was a letter to Chicago Corporate invoking that slogan. I got my money back.

    So much for my comments. As a tech I am proud of each of you Do-it-yourself people. Especially those of you who let everyone know how much time and running around you have to do to fix one of these machines. Maybe people will start understanding we are not gouging them when they get that $400-$800 quote to repair these machines.

    BTW LG is now the official Kenmore high end front loader manufacture. Good luck getting parts. They don’t sell through a parts retailers.

  604. John J. of N. Carolina Says:

    I have taken it on to fix my Kenmore 417.43142200. Our sales representative at the local Sears told us that six to ten years is what we should expect to get out of these front-load washing machines, seeing as to how they are so complex and all… That turned us off of wanting to buy a new one, at least for now. And I am resistant to the whole idea of having to buy the stainless basket (which has a lifetime warranty) in order to just get the spider-bracket (which does not). So at this point, I felt the machine was ready for the scrap yard; incidentally a friend of mine tells me that washing machine baskets make really great back yard fire pits… So to fix the machine, or more correctly, kick the problem down the road a bit, I permanently reattached the bracket to the stainless basket with marine grade epoxy, after first having covered the spider-bracket with epoxy and a few strips of fiberglass cloth. I also replaced the original axle bearings.

    We’ll see how long this experiment lasts, but after about forty loads I figure the fix will have come close to paying for itself, compared to doing the wash at the laundromat. And right now it has passed ten loads, the very low benchmark I had chosen before admitting to this kooky repair on this list. In all I have about $75 for the new bearings & seal, and maybe somewhere around $20 in epoxy & glass (which I already had around from a boat I have been working on).

    In the repair, I removed and pressure washed the spider-bracket. When it was dry, covered it in a thin coat of medium cure, System Three Epoxy. Once tacked up, I filled the pits with epoxy & silica micro-filler. After that, scuffed up the back of the basket with 40 grit paper and then scored it with a utility knife to get a good tooth for the epoxy to grip on to. The next evening the spider-bracket was scuff sanded, replaced, bolted in, and the axle lined up as close to original (pre-break) as possible. All bolted back up, I tacked together, with epoxy, the broken arms. The following day I placed on, and epoxied strips of fiberglass cloth just about anywhere I could reach on the spider-bracket. Then the next evening, the recess between the basket and spider-bracket was filled up about three quarters deep, with epoxy thickened silica micro-filler; really connecting the spider-bracket to the basket. Also, the channels of the spider-bracket arms got a good pooling of epoxy/micro filler too. And for good measure I filled in all those recesses in the hub and added glass cloth on top of that too. This all I let cure for a few days…

    The machine does wobble a little bit, and I do not at all consider this all to be a permanent, professional repair; I am seeing it more as an experiment and a challenge. I am sure there are many reasons why it will, and should fail again: I have no guess as to when, but for now – and today – I have a Sears Kenmore front-loader washing machine that is working again.

  605. Joy Says:

    Here’s an update on my last comment. I TAKE IT ALL BACK. After a week of trying to fix the bearings, deciding it wasn’t the bearings after all but the motor – only to end up with water spewing out of the front of the machine – my brother/repair man came over and took the whole thing apart.

    He thought there might be an obstruction in the tube connecting the tub to the detergent dispenser drawer. He removed the drawer and couldn’t see anything in the tube but he tried to stick something down the tube and it was blocked by something. He reached in w/ some pliers and pulled out my skimpiest pair of satin thong undies!!! We laughed, I was very embarassed, and then we started scratching our heads. They were almost thread-bare and had obviously been on quite a journey but we’re not sure how they got where they were. This is where the water ENTERS the tub – not the drain.

    The good news is, my washer is fine. It doesn’t need bearings. The motor is fine. It may last another 10 years now. The moral of the story is, USE A LINGERIE BAG FOR YOUR DELICATES! And, the sound that a washer makes when the bearings go out is very similar to the sound it makes when there is a foreign object floating around in the mechanics somewhere.

  606. D. Green Says:

    I am sure the following is the root cause of MOST of these problems: several young newly graduated engineers, friends of a friend, have said that their official job is to design parts to FAIL. They are to last long enough for the warranty to expire and then fail. Repair costs are deliberately structured to be higher than just buying another device. I kid you not. A disturbing number of manufacturers have decided that the best way to enhance the bottom line is to force consumers to keep discarding and then buying another of whatever it was. For this reason, I have a really old washer and dryer which will probably last the rest of my life, and my repairman says the washer is his favorite model and that you can’t get anything like that anymore. In the past 4 years I had to replace a bearing in the dryer, and the machines were probably 10 – 15 years old when I bought them. Nothing has gone wrong with the washer. So, the point of all this ….. does anyone know of ANY brands that do NOT do business in this way? Vacuum cleaners? – most if not all have abandoned making internal parts of metal; the plastic eventually cracks, you lose suction, there is nothing to do but replace. And of course the same thing goes for CARS …. a friend bought a brand new van and the transmission went out during the first year. I fiercely hang on to my 86 Volvo 240GL, which is pushing 400,000 miles and runs great, original transmission of course. Just can’t get that anymore …. sigh …

  607. jack in WA Says:

    @ D. Green above: that’s called engineered obsolescence. it’s rampant in our society today. didn’t used to be.

    we’ve had our Kenmore FLW since early ’02. loved it, knew we weren’t supposed to use the same amount of detergent, lots less water, lower energy consumption, etc. worked perfectly for 3 years. first problem was a cheap drill bit stuck in the impeller of the drain pump. it evidently made it through the “penny trap” as they’re called. problem being, it WASN’T one of my drill bits and we bought our machine brand new from Sears. a former co-worker had a similar problem only his was an “Allen” wrench jammed in his pump impeller. huh, go figure. makes me wonder how many other people have found things of this nature in theirs. I skimmed most of this thread & saw the dental pick problem above. was it their own dental pick? am I paranoid?

    so, back on track & why I’m here. we’re now at the point it makes considerable screeching noise while in final spin, doesn’t spin nearly as fast as previously & the tub wobbles a bit. seems so far that maybe it’s only the bearing. I’ve heard the horror stories from another friend about the brown stains on their clothes… I’ll take it apart and see if the spider is still intact. and I might reinforce that if it is, as well as coat it with something waterproof. truck “bed liner” come to mind. it’s polyurethane…

    so far we’re still doing laundry.

    I know this post will get lost in the long trail of this page, but I’m personally against taking our machine to the landfill b/c other than this fairly simple but costly problem, it’s still functional. I agree that it’s unethical for companies to build products this way, but that’s the culture we live in. when it breaks, throw it away. my big question is, which came first the chicken or the egg? do companies do this b/c the majority of consumers want this disposable society (not those of us here trying to find a solution) or did they start doing this & we have this cultural mentality as a result?

    I like their hand tools, but I will never again buy an appliance from Sears, Frigidaire, et al.

    re: the Better Business Bureau, or BBB… they are nothing more than a “bought & paid for” fraternal organization for local businesses. pay the dues, get their plaque. as long as a bidness continues to pay the dues, a consumer can rarely get a complaint about them lodged permanently. and they likely will not advise you there have been previous complaints about a particular business. if a local bidness DOESN’T subscribe to their service, they can sometimes get negative referrals. this has only been my own personal experience in several places so, “your mileage may vary.”

    thanks for your time,

  608. Woody Says:

    Just a short comment about your post.

    1. There are manufactures who build or try to build good products. The problem is WE won’t pay for them. Several manufactures make their spieders and tubs out of high grade stainless steel.
    2. Consumer magazines tend to focus on energy consumption and features THEY like and I find frequently they recommend brands that in my opionion do not really deserve the top ratings. Most recently the Samsung washing machines. I have worked on these machines. There is NO WAY they are superior products, especially when you start finding out the availablity and costs of replacement parts.
    3. The BBB. I agree they are usually milk toast, but their hands are tied because of privacy laws and State consumer and business laws. In my state there has to be 20 or more complaints about a business before the Attorney General will even look at an issue.

    I am not an advocate of more government intervention but I often wonder why companies like Sears do not have to disclose who the manufacture of their products are, don’t you?

    I admire your effort to preserve something of value by putting too much into it, both time and costs.

  609. jack in WA Says:

    @ Woody: you’re absolutely right. the majority of “WE” wouldn’t. but I certainly would pay much more for a product that a) would last longer than what is now considered normal. b) you can work on and rebuild with fairly priced parts or better yet, common “off-the-shelf” parts. or c) the manufacturer would hold themselves responsible for accepting damaged or less than ideal quality goods at any time post sale. even if that’s 20-30 years down the road. some companies ARE beginning to do this. HP, I believe, is one with some limited parts & products. that kind of consumer respect and loyalty impresses me greatly.

  610. Jaden Cervantes Says:

    We have owned this model since 2003, and have had nothing but problems with it. Actually, it’s always the same problem: it gets hung up on the rinse and final spin cycles. Sears has replaced just about every part on the thing, and it *still* does not work. I had a repair tech admit to me today that Sears knows they have design flaws with this model, but they do nothing about it. Nice. I think it’ll be a cold day in you know where before I ever buy another Sears appliance.

  611. Jennifer Says:

    I have the boom boom boom symptoms on my Kenmore front load washer (417, purchased in 2002). I’m waiting for it to take off and bust through the wall here in the office. It sounds like it could happen any minute but for now, I’m okay!) I spent the evening last night reading through most of the above posts. This is one of the great things about the internet- now I feel empowered. In the last year I have fixed two toilets and dismounted and repaired an old pocket door- all thanks to youtube and sites like this one. Pretty good for a stay-at-home mom. I called Sears a few minutes ago (armed with my knowledge from this site). I was passed around a few times. In the end it was confirmed that I have a limited lifetime warranty on the Stainless Steel Wash Basket. I asked her what parts made up the “wash basket.” She said, “The shell, the spin sleeve and and the spin tub.” She could not confirm that those parts includ the inner tub with the spider assembly and the outer tub with the bearing assembly. Can anyone tell me if the “wash basket” includes the inner and outer tubs with the all important spider and bearing assemblies? I was initially told that the warranty did not cover the labor or service call charge, only the part. But in the end Mary insisted that the $129. flat fee would cover the diagnosis trip (scheduled a week from today), ordering of the part and the part itself and a second trip out to install the part. I asked her a few times if it covered the labor and she again insisted it did. I have no idea if it had anything to do with my questions regarding a recall or class action. Does anyone have any additional insight?
    On a legal note, I can tell you that in my former life (before kids) I worked on class action suits, both on the plaintiff and defense side. Despite being a lawyer, I am in no way a litigious person. People like to talk about class actions as only benefiting the lawyers. The whole reason we have the class action is to protect individuals who wouldn’t have the ability to go after a company like Sears. Their damages simply would not meet the minimum in most courts and you would have a very difficult time finding a lawyer to take on such a small case. By allowing people to join together they can change the way a company does business. You have to also consider the risk a lawyer takes on in prosecuting a class action. They only get paid if they win. In the meantime, they spend millions getting a case ready (believe me, the defense attys make sure they do- they get paid by their client (the big company) whether the case is won or lost). Legal costs are built in to the companies budget before any lawsuits are filed. People don’t realize what a risk it is to take on a class action. Despite what some people think about our best plaintiff attys, we need them in our capitalist society. Doesn’t mean you have to like them!

  612. Donna Hall Says:

    Found your site to check on front loaders–don’t think I’ll get one! I also found this info. on a consumer check site:

    Front-loading washers are also at the center of a consumer controversy. According to an editorial report by ConsumerReports.org, class-action lawsuits against LG and Whirlpool claim that front loaders from these manufacturers become moldy and malodorous, even when properly cared for. These lawsuits against LG and Whirlpool are still pending as of February 2010. A Maytag Neptune front-loader was part of a similar lawsuit, but a settlement was reached in 2004. You can learn more about mold and mildew in front-loading washers in our sections on Washing Machine Types and Front-Loading Washers.

  613. dave Says:

    hi i am looking to buy a speed control board or a timer for a kenmore 417.43142200 if anyone is looking to sell one of these let me know e-mail gotall6@aol.com thank you!

  614. Woody Says:

    Donna, most of the mold problems are customer realated i.e. not using the correct type and correct quantities of detergents. It can also be prevented by leaving the door open once in a while. There are a few products to use for maintainance that are available also.

    The Maytag settlement was due to an electrical issue that was already being taken care of by Maytag when the lawsuit was filed. Once a lawsuit was filed Maytag had to discontinue what they were doing until a settlement was reached. The settlement was much less than what Maytag was already doing. The consumers got sc***ed!

    Maytag was also addresing the mold issue with a mold resistant new boot and a vented door that were being replaced at no charge to consumers prior to the class action. The class action was one of the reasons Maytag is no longer a company but now just a name. Too bad because they were a company of integrity and always took the lead when there was any issue.

    The best way to address this isn’t with lawyers, it is to QUIT buying from SEARS and stop buying brands that have issues the manufacture knows about and isn’t addressing. We would all be better off if manufactures and retailers like SEARS were required to disclose the manufacture of the appliance that has their names on it. Now that’s a class action that I would gladly sign onto.

  615. George W. Says:

    I got to this site by punching the part # into Google to see if I can get it for less than the $229.99 Sears wants to fleece me for. I am not particularly surprised to find out that this is a common issue, but a bit surprised to find it this common. I disassembled my whole Kenmore washer on Sunday only to find this spider arm issue with mine. As a former furnace mechanic I immediately noticed the dissimilar metal issue. I can also relate to the scored inner plastic drum and the chunk missing on the top corner of my plastic drum. My washer was rattling quite a bit and not properly draining the day this happened and I am now contemplating taking apart the pump assembly as well to see if it is clogged with chunks of aluminum from the broken spider arm. If there is ever any legal action in Canada you can count me in. My washer was not quite five years old, I don’t want to replace it.

  616. C Brinkman Says:

    I accept the fact that I will have to buy another machine or pay just as much for a repair. The issue is that when my washer was purchased (2006) it was installed under a 36″ counter. It seems that now there are no front-loading washers made to fit this height. Any suggestions?

  617. Jennifer Says:

    I decided to buy a new washer since the outer drum with the bearing assembly was not under warranty. Mine is also under a 37″ counter. I purchased the Whirlpool Duet- the most basic model and the only one at that height (around $579.). I have learned from this site and the serviceman who came out to look at it to buy the most basic washer possible. There are problems with the electronic displays and steam mechanisms of the more expensive units. The salesman at Great Indoors told me that they will always have a unit that is only 36″ high because of the demand, but that the next generation of machines at that height will be really, really cheap machines. He said the one I purchased is still a good machine. Also, I learned that it is very, very important to keep the washer door open after a load to prevent mold. Also, anything left in the pockets may ruin the bearings. But as we all know, they will eventually fail even when you do everything right. I feel lucky mine lasted 9 years.

  618. tony Says:

    I have always left the door open on our front load after the wash, just made sense to me to help keep it aired out. We have a 2005 Kenmore, the thing shakes, bangs and rattles like heck, though am going to run it till it stops. My sister in-law has the Maytag Neptune, that washer stinks terrible because it holds trapped water even after the rinse and drain.

  619. Susan Says:

    Great Article!

    If I could write like this I would be well chuffed ;-)

    The more I read articles of such quality as this (which is rare), the more I think there might be a future for the Web. Keep it up, as it were.

  620. David Says:

    We have one of those Kenmore 44042 washers on which the spider drum assembly has gone after 6 years – bought in 2004. Need to replace it with a washer that is the same size: 26.75 W x 24.75 D x 36 H. Only ones I can find are Kenmore 40412 and GE WSXH208H, which seem to be a model that was first introduced in 2007. Trying to find out if the spider assembly was changed in the newer model – anyone know? I don’t want to have same problem all over again but I also need a machine that fits in the space I have next to a dryer with essentially same dimensions.

  621. sam Says:


    Unfortunately, the GE WSXH208H is the same dryer I have and yes it has the same problem. I have now replaced the basket twice on ours –bought it new in 2004…..specifically, the aluminum drive casting on any of the 3.1 cu ft model having kenmore, frigidaire, ge and electroluux brand names routinely and predictably fails to galvanic erosion which is caused by dis-similar metals being in contact with each other under wet conditions.

  622. Dave C Says:

    Sears regularily advertises “Cash for clunkers” sales.
    They do not say that if you buy a new front loader
    and wait a few years you will have a true clunker.

  623. Ricardo Says:

    I just replaced the bearings of my Kenmore washer (417.42142100) for less than $50. You can do it too I am NOT a servise guy. I went to KAMAN Industrtrial Technologies in San Diego CA, purshaced the ball bearing (SKF 6307-2RSJEM) and the seal (CRI 562736) 40x80x10, or locate them at kamandirect.com. I hope this information helps, I hate to see people buying the hole 1/2 Tub for $200, we already got riped off once.

  624. Will Says:

    Have a machine shop and made my own stainless steel replacement arm… Took a long time.. not doing that again… What a piece of junk this washer is. There is no isolated incidence in manufacturing, when one fails, they all fail….

  625. Mike Says:

    This is what I wrote to GE about the Frigidare washer they sold me with their name on it. Model WSXH208A1WW. What a piece of junk.

    “I used to be loyal GE customer but now I find out that the washer and dryer I bought are made by Fridgedare and have inherent design flaws, such as protruding screws that cut into the plastic tub and mixing incompatible metals (stainless steel and aluminum) with the ss drum and alum spider assembly. Won’t be buying anymore GE, opps, I mean Fridgedare products. And to top it off you try and sell replacements parts at double the price. Later.”

  626. Woody Says:

    Great message Mike, I’m sure they tossed it into the recycle bin with the others.

    It is difficult for consumers to know if they are buying a “sourced” appliance from almost any brand name. One major manufacture used to have all their 17 cubic foot refrigerators built by a competitor.

    Even big time names of prestige like KitchenAid,Viking,Dacor,SubZero and Wolf and so on, source products from their competitors to complete their line up. It was only recently Viking introduced a new dishwasher to replace the sourced dishwasher they had which was built by Asko. Vikings’ freestanding french door refrigerator is not their product either. Anytime a brand sources a product you can ALWAYS expect to pay more for the repair parts than from the original manufacture as there is one more hand to feed to distribute it. Good luck to all….It’s a jungle out there

  627. jack in WA Says:

    well, disassembled our “Kenmore” yesterday. we had the awful grinding sound when in spin mode. our spider arms are in near perfect shape. just a little darkening from years of use, I assume. virtually no corrosion on the arms, just a light dusting of it near the hub spindle. I carefully scratched that off & painted it with an acrylic enamel from a rattle can. seems to be still very usable.
    as mentioned above, our machine was purchased in 2001, two of us have used it every week since then, doing on average 4-5 loads a week. we’ve used mostly powdered detergent. but we’re very careful about how much we use. I’ve known for years that as little as a third of what a top loader needs, is more than necessary for a front loader.
    ours has evidence of the three tub screws scratching the inside of the outer plastic tub but it hadn’t cut through. following the directions at the head of this thread, got it all apart. one bearing was shot the other was on it’s way. the rubber seal on each bearing is stamped (or formed) “China”. niiiiice. NOT.
    I found replacement bearings locally (North of Seattle) for about $75. I’m still looking for a seal. my local NAPA couldn’t find anything in their new catalogs… I’ll try the mentioned 15872 part number this week. I tried the Chicago Rawhide website and they didn’t list anything by the 15939 part number. maybe I wasn’t searching properly?
    something of note worth mentioning, when I’ve dealt with pressing in bearings in the past, it helps to put the bearings (or bearing races) in the freezer overnight or for a couple of days prior to install. metal contracts & expands, etc… also, if you can, but I wouldn’t advise it in this case, heat the sleeve that it’s to be mounted into.

    I personally think it’s worth spending the $100 average on keeping ours operational. but I strive to fix, repair and reuse a LOT of stuff in my life.

    best of luck with all your Frigidaires,

  628. Woody Says:

    Thanks for all the detail on your post Jack. I hope people who read this that are not as knowledgable and creative as Jack and others who have posted their repair logs, will understand when a technician comes to their home to do this repair in the course of his employement and tells you the repair is going to cost $400-$600 to repair the machine you will understand their is a great deal of time and materials involved in that repair.

  629. David F Says:

    To Annalee,
    What bit are you particularly interested in, most of it is covered above, it just takes a heck of a while to get through.
    Other than that it is time to update my contributions to this ongoing saga.
    I was recently asked to ‘have a look at’ my sister-in-law’s Frigidaire built Kenmore front load washer because of foul odours. The first thing I noticed was that the bearings were on the way out, (play in the inner tub relative to the outer tub and similar play between the pulley and the outer tub). There was also an offensive odour that even I could smell.
    Pulled the whole thing apart, bearings were not as bad as I had expected but the real surprise was, virtually no corrosion. Said sister-in law claims to have used almost no bleach over the four and a half year life of the machine, additionally she claims to have used virtually no other laundry aids other than the liquid HE detergent. I believe her.
    What we did find in the recesses of the hub of the spider was some foul smelling deposit.
    My sister-in-law’s husband and I then did, in hindsight, a rather foolish thing; we attempted to remove the spider from the inner stainless steel drum to clean it up. Six sheared off setscrews later, and unable to remove the remains of the setscrews (bolts) from the spider, we were left with the need for a new spider!! Sorry can’t buy them separately, where have I heard that before! Sears wanted C$255.00 plus all the add on’s for the spider and inner drum assembly or C$229.00 plus the add on’s for the ‘Drum Kit’ part number 970134453200. No prizes for guessing which one we opted for. This time I was unable to source the spider and inner drum assembly for less than Sears price from any of the parts suppliers I normally contact.
    The machine is now back together, running nice and quietly, and with no smell, but I do not doubt it, the smell will return in the fullness of time.
    This episode has led me to believe that the offensive odours are not caused solely by, although they may still be increased by, the corrosion of the aluminium spider, but by small quantities of ‘dirty’ water being left in the recesses of the spider hub, another, in my view, design flaw.
    Since my last post….. I have been in contact with Proctor and Gamble, the Manufacturers of ‘Tide’ regarding the corrosion of aluminium by detergents. At first they categorically denied that any of their products caused any corrosion in front loading machines but after discussing the situation with them they have now modified their position to
    ‘As we discussed, P&G believes that our laundry products are compatible for use with washing machines containing aluminum spiders and do not cause premature failure of the machines due to corrosion. This is based on the following:

    o Laundry detergents around the world typically have a pH above 8.0 for effective cleaning. This is true for P&G detergents as well as detergents from other manufacturers.
    o In our in-lab multicycle technical testing, P&G has not observed an incompatibility between our laundry products and the aluminum spider causing the washing machine to no longer function.
    o Based on our discussions with appliance manufacturers, it is our understanding that the aluminum alloy spider is designed to be compatible with typical laundry products under normal usage conditions.
    · While front loading washing machines with aluminum spiders have been in North America for a little over a decade, similarly designed washers have been in use in Europe for much longer. Even with a higher rate of powder detergent and bleach usage, we have not observed any widespread machine failure related to aluminum alloy corrosion caused by laundry products.’
    In view of that I can only suggest that the appliance manufacturers leave a sample of their spider in concentrated bleach for a while and see what happens, and perhaps tell us what ‘normal usage conditions are’.

  630. Woody Says:

    For future reference:

    Odors can be removed by using a product called AFFRESH available from Whirlpool Servicers or Parts distributors, part # W10194073 (works on any brand). Instructions are on the package.

    You can also freshen up the machine by using powdered Cascade dishwashing detergent, using the hot water cycle and making sure the dishwasher detergent is placed into the washing machine in the main wash cycle.

    Be sure to leave the door of your washer open if you will not be using it for a period of several days. This will also prevent the odors and mildew issues.

  631. jack in WA Says:

    latest update: NAPA part number from above was a bust (sorry, I might have already mentioned that) they might have changed their numbering system or something.

    installing frozen bearings is such a breeze, all I had to do was tap them into the metal ring housings. make sure they get fully seated…

    found a seal at the same parts house as the bearings. doesn’t look EXACTLY the same as the OEM, but all three dimensions are the same. I used a bit of vegetable oil on the inside & outside of it to ease installation of it into the housing and the tub shaft into it.

    upon full reassembly I ran several tests loads. the first one with about a cup of vinegar. we’ve never had the foul odor problem, but then we always leave the door open for several hours after doing any laundry.

    I have to say, with NSK bearings it is noticeably quieter than when it was new. and much, much better than recently.

    all in all, using the outstanding directions above, I’d say any adept “handyman” could easily do this job in 3-4 hours. and I would think most anyone else could get through it as well, maybe taking a little longer. I’m a bit anal retentive when I do this type of thing so it took me longer. AND I disassembled on one day, went to buy parts, one that had to be ordered, and then reassembled on a third day… meh, whatever has to be done.

    all the best,

    btw, instead of buying a new white band seal, I left the old one in & glued ours back together with aquarium grade sealant/adhesive in a caulking gun. it’ a vinegar based product that is safe for fish, so I figure it’s safe for laundry. no leaks on that, but… I had to reseat the “screw-down cable clamp” drain boot on the tub to “penny trap” after my first install as it had a drip leak once the tub was full. all fixed now.

  632. Ed Hedges Says:

    My aluminum spider deteriorated and broke as well in my Kenmore 3 1/2 years after buying it. The extended three year warranty had run out but the ownners manual clearly states that the stainless steel basket has a lifetime warranty. I fought with Sears for many many many hours over many months on the telephone. I was constantly being transferred and transferred and transferred but I refused to give up because the owners manual says that the inner stainless basket is warranteed for life. In the end, had to have a technician verify that the spider was broken on the stainless steel inner basket. I had to pay for the service call ($75)… but I refused the estimate (of $812.76 minus the warranty covered basket $271.33 so the total was $541.43). Even after going through all the hoops that they demanded they still refused to send the basket that they knew was broken (from technician’s paperwork) and they knew had a lifetime warranty. They tried to say that it could only be installed by a Sears Technician. After talking to many many many people I finally got someone to send me a new inner basket and spider under warranty. First thing I did was remove the aluminum spider, wire brushed it, cleaned it with acetone and then painted it with rustoleaum aluminum paint. Then I cut off the long screws holding in the paddles on the original basket and put the newly painted spider on my old (perfectly good) basket. I repacked the bearings (only because I checked them and I could not feel any “play” or sloppyness) and put the machine back together. Hopefully it will last longer than 3 1/2 years now that I painted the aluminum spider that deteriorates from the chemical reaction because of the proximity to stainless steel, from being constantly chemically bombarded by various soaps, softeners, bleach and whatever else was on the clothes being washed. The original machine that this replaced lasted at least 20 years and I am hoping for at least another 3 1/2 years or a total of 7 years. What is wrong with this picture?

  633. Aloha John Says:

    WOODY…… A Sears 417; R.I.P., 6yrs, 29 days. nuff said.

    Thanks to all that have blogged as my next step is to locate a good front end loader.

    Woody, if you can advise / opine on who has the best made and/or best warrented FEL on the market today; you would be doing us appliance neophytes a great service.

  634. Woody Says:

    Aloha John,
    I’ve pretty much said my piece about my opinion on laundry. Not the most popular (yet) but the Bosch laundry is meeting and exceeding our expectations. Several of those who have since purchased the Bosch seem to feel their money has been well spent thus far.

    Hope that helps.

  635. Elain e Piper Says:

    I have a Kenmore HE2 Washer – purchased in June 2006, model 110.46462501; Serial Number HLT0418244 which has gone from quiet, to sounding like a jet taking off, to making banging noises when spinning out. I paid 1200.00 for the machine and also purchased the matching stack-able dryer.

    I have contacted the Penhorn Mall Sears store, where I purchased the machines and inquired about any known difficulties with the washers, however the Salesperson, did not know of any such problems, she directed to the call the Sears Service number. I have done so and spoke with a representative in the Philippines, to book a service call. I have asked that the Service Rep. call to confirm the appt. so I can speak directly with a technician.

    I have always used the HE detergent, as directed therefore it is not a soap issue.

  636. woody Says:

    Unless you have a service contract from Sears, save the money for the service visit and apply it to a new machine. Your tub bearings have failed. Not worth the price Sears will have to charge you to repair it.

  637. Emily Says:

    So, I have a Kenmore 4027 washer about to be delivered to me… should I disassemble it right away and have the spider bracket assembly powder coated, or should I just get a different washer? It seems all front loading washers are having issues.. so it doesn’t seem like getting a different brand will really get me anywhere.

  638. David F Says:

    To Emily,
    Dismantling the washer as soon as you receive it will almost certainly void the normal year warranty you get, as will any modifications you make.
    You are quite correct it seems that all machines normally available in North America have aluminium spiders, as do numerous European models (I have not yet found a true front loader that does not have the an aluminium spider [please see my posts of 15 and 20 November 2009 above]. The web site fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/28 has some pictures of Frigidaire spiders and also of a GE spider. Note. I do not agree that the corrosion in totally galvanic, please see my earlier posts, from 16 September 2009, above, on this subject).

  639. Emily Says:

    So, I’m going to return my Kenmore washer before it’s delivered so that I don’t have to go through all this. I’m thinking of just getting a simple top loading washer/dryer. As much as I want to save water/electricity, I can’t buy a product that I know is going to fail in 3-7 years. Can anyone give me any recommended models/brands for top loaders?

  640. Marie Says:

    I had posted earlier on March 30 – After our Kenmore died I was at the store (not Sears) furiously looking for the cheapest top loader I could find as I hate laundromats! A gentleman shopping in the store (he was clearly an appliance junkie), said he couldn’t wait for his current washer to die so that he could buy a Fisher Paykel machine – I had never even heard of that brand. He basically sold me on the machine. And after talking to the salesperson about it, who told me that they had a demonstration and the clothes come out almost bone dry after a spin, and it had an automatic water level, with stainless steel drum. We went for it and I am VERY pleased with this washer. The drying time is even less than with the front loader we had. I think it’s because it is a direct drive motor(anyway check it out for yourself if you are interested.) The clothes seem to come out much cleaner as well as they are actually in the water. My opinion though, something to look into if you’re looking for reduced drying time and automatic water levels to reduce water use. It’s not really flashy to look at but we are very pleased!

  641. SvcMgr Says:


    If it puts you at ease, return your Kenmore. But keep in mind, the Kenmore series 417 model and related Frigidaire and GE models discussed on this site are one of the most common/highly produced and sold of all front-load washer models; with the Frigidaire model being sold since the mid 1990′s. Also, the Frigidaire/Kenmore Front-Loader has also been installed in Laundromats, as a Commercial Duty Wascomat, Models: WE16 and WE17. Therefore, as bad as these reviews appear on the surface, this is a relatively small failure rate of all units sold of this chassis/model.

    As a past Regional Service Manager for Bosch, (B/S/H/ Home Appliances Corporation) I can tell you we had many service problems with Bosch Front Load Washers, too. Including, Spin Cycle Vibration, due to what was believed to be inadequate suspension. Additionally, the Bosch machines would shut down and display error codes, due to minor oversudsing, as they are very sensitive to detergent type and amount, even with use of HE detergent, powder or liquid.

    Bosch, does however provide the dealer with a great profit margin, as the Bosch name has great snob appeal and fits the high-end niche quite well. But, don’t expect additional value and longer-life performance for the extra dollars spent on a Bosch product.

  642. Emily Says:

    It just seems to me that front load washers in general aren’t worth the hassle no matter what brand. I think I would rather pay less money and get something that is going to last longer even if it is a little less efficient. And, after hearing how poorly Sears is treating their customers on this issue I frankly, don’t want to spend another dime in any of their stores.
    I asked them what the spider bracket is made out of on the Kenmore 4027 and they said it’s still aluminum.. so they obviously have no intention of fixing this.

  643. SvcMgr Says:


    I agree with you…Buy the make and model you feel most confident with.

    Just like David F said on May 14, “I have not yet found a true front loader that does not have an aluminum spider [please see David F's posts of 15 and 20 November 2009 above].”

    Most major brand Front-Load Washer manufacturers, along with Frigidaire/Kenmore, use the Aluminum Spider and they do not believe spider failure is a major problem, based on the number of units manufactured and in use at this time.

    As I mentioned before, the Kenmore series 417 model and related Frigidaire and GE models discussed on this site are one of the most common/highly produced and sold of all front-load washer models, so they naturally make up the majority of the spider failures, and this site is a direct result of those failures.

  644. woody Says:

    I have only replace one spider on a Bosch washer and it was a dead on arrival due to a bearing problem.

    We have thousands of the for Maytag Neptunes in our area. Bearing failures, not spider failures were more common. The bearing failures were mostly due to improper use of detergents.

    Electonic failures and water leaks have a much higher incidence of repair than spiders. Either can cause an early replacement decision to have to be made. These spider failures are mostly in the Fridaire built machines which include some Kenmore models, Fridaire, Electrolux, Gibson etc.

  645. SvcMgr Says:

    Hi Woody:

    Thanks for your comments on this subject. It will be interesting to monitor the spider failure rate throughout the industry, as front-load washers continue to gain popularity and other manufacturers claim their market share, thus providing us with detailed service history on numerous brands.

    As a past Regional Service Manager for Bosch, (B/S/H/ Home Appliances Corporation), who witnessed many problems with the Bosch series of front-loaders, I chose to purchase a Frigidaire Front-Load Washer, which is now about 10 years old with no spider or bearing failures. Of course, after reading the comments on this site, I secured from my industry contacts a complete inner/outer tub assembly, part# 134453200. But, even after 10 years of use, my Frigidaire continues operating with no problems. However, I’ll let everyone know when or if it finally dies, but for now, the new tub assembly sits in a box, unused.

  646. woody Says:

    Thanks for your comments. You mention that you chose to purchase a Frigidaire 10 years ago instead of a Bosch. But 10 years ago the Bosch Nexxt was not even in the USA. They marketed the Axxis model which was/is a small european size machine. I am familiar with the Axxis and although it is a good machine I wouldn’t say it was a great machine. American’s don’t do well with the smaller size machines. “BIGGER IS BETTER IN AMERICA” or so it is said. :)

    But Frigidaire and Bosch are two different price points. For what people spend for a Frigidaire vs a Bosch they should be satisfied with 7 or 8 years. My expectations from a higher price point machine is 20 years.

  647. SvcMgr Says:

    Hello Woody:

    You are correct about the Bosch NEXXT series. I believe it made its appearance in showrooms about 2003.

    As Bosch regional service managers, in the summer of 1998, we were first introduced to the Bosch Washer, Model WFK2401UC, and soon after began performing service training throughout our territories. The WFK2401UC was the predecessor to the AXXIS series, and was the first attempt by Bosch to enter the Laundry arena in this region. Yes, it was a well built, small European capacity, 220 volt machine, manufactured in Germany with durable stainless steel outer tub and it was usually teamed up with the Bosch Condenser Dryer, Model WTL5400UC, or Vented Dryer, Model WTA3500UC. Small size/capacity was my reason for not purchasing this model at that time.

    When the full-size, New Bern, NC, built NEXXT washer was introduced (not without problems) around early 2003, I already had my trouble-free Frigidaire front-loader. Even with my Bosch employee discount program, I kept my simple Frigidaire front-loader and never looked back.

  648. woody Says:

    Thanks for the clairfication SrvMgr,

    Again comparing the early Axis machines with the Bosch Nexxt was not an equal comparison. I’m sure many who have posted here are glad to see SOMEONE got fair value for their Frigidaire/Kenmore purchase.

    Every brand washer has service issues of some sort. As an authorized service company for many brands we have first hand knowledge of almost every major brand and updates to their current service bulletins, parts pricing, customer support and so on. I have a large family and we use the new appliances in our own home as well. We do everything we can to have first hand unbiased opinions about these products because EVERYday people ask us what they ought to buy. By even providing an answer we put our own reputations on the line.

    Frankly the best machine we ever had as a front loader was a Maytag Neptune 6000 series. Great washability, limited vibration, no mold issues etc. But unfortunately due to the new ownership of the Maytag name by Whirlpool it is now longer manufactured. The Neptune was the first largely accepted front loader by consumers and was promoted well. They demonstrated that selling a $1000 washer was possible and therefore companies could build and sell a quality product instead of every manufacture trying to build at $299 top loader. But the Neptune was not without it’s growing pains and the once honorable Maytag company was taking care of the consumers who had problems until one person in California started a class action suit. The consumers got shafted and the attorney’s made out like bandits.

    During this period Maytag was picking up market share and companies like Frigidaire (an Electrolux Company) began introducting less expensive front loaders and now we are back where we were, with a few manufactures trying to build a better product while competing with the seduction of companies like Sears and Frigidaire luring people with price. I just got a Memorial day ad from a large local retailer featuring the Frigidaire front loader at $999 for THE SET with PEDESTALS. Great deal if you want a 5-7 year product, then throw it away. Where is the ecology in that?

    My company has been servicing Bosch major appliances since their introduction (dishwasher) in the USA. They seem to want to do what is right, build a better product, back it with service and in the long run build a reputation for quality. They have accomplished this by blowing KitchenAid out of the water in the high end dishwasher business and I suspect the high end laundry product will do the same once they have 10-15 years worth of product out there. Frigidaire (Electrolux) in the meantime has tried to enter the higher end appliance market with fancy ads and glitzy looks by branding the Electrolux name to the product but basically just putting lipstick on a pig.

    Bosch is however quickly falling victim to the price war. Lowes sells Bosch for less than many companies can even buy it for. In the long run the knowledgeable people, little independent stores and service companies like myself won’t be around to counter all the ads, spiffs, ect.

    Anyway, we are all entitled to our opinions. I think this conversation may be detracting from the excellent video that is on this article that exposed what we already know to so many more. Kenmore branded Fridgidare and GE branded Frigidare washers have a corrosion issue that shortens their life span. Buyer beware!

  649. drive away awning Says:

    Honestly, I like Nico Rosberg! He’s so cute

  650. Jim Says:

    Great website, video and comments. I have the Kenmore brand 417xxx model purchased from Sears in 2004 for $1,000 that just started to go “thump”. Checked the web before pulling it apart. Called Sears, asked for a supervisor and told them this was a “manufacturer defect” on the spider, bearing and tub. She said that some parts are covered under a 10 year “exceptional” manufacturer warrenty but service tech would have to verfify. Service department told me they would charge $129 flat fee for service (plus parts not covered) or $319 total (parts, labor & 1 year warranty). Today is Saturday, they come on Tuesday.

    Maybe I have low expectations but hard to be too angry about the service deal from Sears. We like the way the machine works for our family of 4.

    By the way when I called the local repair shop he told me the same thing, parts were covered under a manufacturer warrenty which prompted me to check out the web. So thanks to Tony at All Appliance Repair in Northport LI for restoring my faith in honest business practices and thanks to previous posters for giving me the details needed to hopefuly resolve this problem at a resonable cost.

    Now on to to the next item on the “honey-do” list !

  651. David F Says:

    I see that above you have recommended ‘Affresh’ by Whirlpool as a cleanser.
    I am given to understand that this contains sodium carbonate and sodium percarbonate, according to the Material Data Sheets available on the web for these compounds both are corrosive to aluminium and are therefore, in my opinion, should the correct concentration be reached, capable of corroding aluminium spiders.

    You and SVC Mgr both seem to think that the incidence of spider failures is decreasing and that the manufacturers consider the failure rates as acceptable. This MAY mean that they have now designed a ‘smoother’ spider i.e. one with no notches or recesses near the hub that will hold small quantities of water, soil and laundry aids even at the end of the last spin phase of the cycle. My theory is that as the water evaporates, the concentration rises to the required pH level (above about 8.0) and corrosion commences. It will be a very slow process.

    I would appreciate any comments from you and Svc Mgr, or anybody else for that matter.

    Thank you

  652. David F Says:

    To SrvMgr
    Sorry for my spelling mistake in the above post, I only spotted it after I had pressed the ‘submit’ key.
    please accept my apologies.

  653. woody Says:

    David F: Your comments are well taken, but the machines with the corroding spieders are machines made by Frigidaire under the names KENMORE, GE and Frigidaire. I have not experienced this problem on the BOSCH, WHIRLPOOL and several others (including the orginal Maytag Neptune.

    Frigidaire tends to sell products at a “price point”. In order to do so they must use lesser quality and lesser cost materials. That is most likely why the frequency of spider problems compared to other brands.

    Front loaders rinse better and more often than top loaders. Mold issues were a result of too much moisture in the tubs from not enough evaporation (people not leaving the doors open and use of wrong detergents). So I don’t know how the evaportion theory would hold up in actual tests. Afresh is a convienient product. But citric crystals or anything with phosphates will solve the problem. Some BOSCH washer models have a tub clean cylce on them.

    That’s my take.

  654. SvcMgr Says:

    David F:

    I am not aware of any changes to the Spider Assembly on front-load washers of any brand. Many front-load washer owners use way too much detergent; the cause of some bearing failures and possibly the cause of premature spider failure.

    Much like washing by hand, the front-load washer takes advantage of a more thorough “mechanical cleaning action” by lifting and dropping laundry articles during the wash and rinse process and because of this action, along with lower water levels, less detergent can and should be used. I use only Standard Tide Powdered Detergent w/ Powdered Bleach. I never use liquid bleach. I just wipe the door gasket while it is damp, immediately after use and I have never experienced mold or unpleasant odors on my Frigidaire, which is still on its original bearings and spider after about 10 years!

    However, about Woody’s statement, “the machines with the corroding spiders are machines made by Frigidaire under the names KENMORE, GE and Frigidaire. I have not experienced this problem on the BOSCH, WHIRLPOOL and several others (including the original Maytag Neptune.”

    On the contrary, I have noticed an increasing number of posts on this site from Whirlpool/Kenmore owners who have experienced this corroding spider problem.

    Please note the below listed Whirlpool/Kenmore postings on this site, most with corroded spiders, which specifically identify Sears Whirlpool/Kenmore Models, identified by Manufacturer Model Numbers beginning with Number 110.

    Mark, July 14, 2008
    Brent, October 4, 2008
    Marty, February 19, 2009
    Andrew of Ottawa, March 11, 2009
    Andrew of Ottawa, October 1, 2009
    Roman K, December 1, 2009
    Wade, January 11, 2010
    Elaine e Piper, May 4, 2010

    As production of front-load washers increases and they become more common, it is probably just a matter of time before more manufacturers are identified as having this corrosion problem.

  655. duskb Says:

    I’ve read over most of the commentary on this blog. Ultimately, sort of paraphrasing Woody, all a washing machine is supposed to do is clean clothes for a period of time and avoid spilling water on the floor in the process. How it does it (front, top, agitator, etc) I could care less.

    Thing is, my research appears to demonstrate that this is alot to ask out of a modern machine. After browsing various websites (www.washing-machine-wizard.com in particular) as well as owner reviews on dealer sites I can’t believe the stratification in satisfaction, in most cases even on the same model. A prospective buyer is led to believe that no machine, regardless of manufacture and model, is a good bet. (You can find multiple owners that vehemently state “DO NOT BUY!!!” on any given machine.) Of course you can expect a few duds across a given line but repeated negative statements against a model make you wonder…

    What this tells me is that the manufacturers have stopped thoroughly Q.C.’ing their machines at the factory and they’re letting the consumers do it for them in the field. Maybe some of the tech savvy guys like Woody can refute this, I don’t know, but how else can they explain why the same model of machine would yield such contrasting results at the same time (i.e. multiple owners of Model X say it’s “Piece of junk” while others says “Cleans like a dream”)? Certainly, this does not instill confidence in any brand (including Bosch which consistently got terrible reviews on the above site).

    At the end of the day if all we as consumers can expect to get out of a washing machine is 4 years of service I’m leaning towards purchasing the cheapest washer out there and pitch it in 4 years. Maybe by then manufacturers will be motivated enough to improve their product to yield a lower “lemon factor”.

    Since I have found very conflicting reports (especially regarding the Bosch) I figured it would be best to bring it up here and get some feedback. I’m confused enough to resist buying but desperate enough to actually need a machine.

  656. Woody Says:

    Duskb: I once heard of a man who read so much about the harmful effects of smoking he gave up reading!

    Depending on who you belive, in North America there are 153 – 290 million internet users. My experience mirrors that of the statememt that one satisfied customer will tell three others and one disatisfied customer will tell 12 others. A book by Pete Blackshaw maybe sums up today’s internet consumers by suggesting “Satisfied Customers Tell Three Friends, Angry Customers Tell 3,000″

    This article and it’s video is just one an example of how much work someone would go to to express their dissatisfaction with a product.

    It is NOT difficult to find derogatory information on almost any product on the internet. Having been in business for over 30 years and my family in the appliance business for 5 generations, there are some WACKY people out there with expectations well above what is reasonable.

    My opinions are based on just a few criteria. Does the machine do what it is supposed to do? Does it last a long time? If it breaks down can it be repaired at a reasonable cost? And do they people I know or do business with find satisfaction in having purchased the product? Especially those who have purchased a product I felt confident enough to recommend or own myself.

    There are a lot of good machines out there. Yes, if you put too much detergent in them and many other factors then YES you will ruin your machine. This is not a manufacturing defect. It is called not being responsible for your own actions and choices.

    I went to training on a new machine that is being introduced to the market place by a major manufacture. It was amazing they had actually done a two year test market with these machines. It is set to retail for $599. Will it be perfect? No. Will it be worth the money people pay for it? Maybe. But ultimately good or bad we will see reviews on it both good and bad on the internet.

  657. duskb Says:

    I agree that bad reviews will always exist, it’s unrealistic to expect every machine to be flawless. What I was commenting on was how I’ve seen same model repeatedly be accused of being a lemon (regardless of manufacture or model) while others claim it’s so great they can use it to walk their dog. Even if you assume a degree of operator error it doesn’t explain such a disparity in reviews.

    For a consumer who is put back into the market for laundry equipment the Internet is the only unbiased resource we have to learn about the products that are out there and the user experiences associated with them. Blaming the Internet for bad publicity is not the way for a manufacturer to deal with “issues” on a product, better engineering IS. If anything, the Internet should remind the manufacturers that they are much more accountable now than they ever were in the past. Their bad engineering WILL come back to haunt them now. There’s no wiggle room like there used to be.

    I realize as a field tech there’s little you can do to persuade a manufacturer to improve a product but you can certainly report what appears to be bad engineering across as line. I’m an electronics tech and bad engineering is typically to blame for user dissatisfaction within a model. Some stuff is really junk period. It’s price point does not always reflect how well built it is, the engineering does. I was applying the same reasoning to washing machines and expect similar results.

    I remain convinced their has to be an affordable washing machine out there that meets my original criteria and can last several years without the need for factory intervention. Very likely it’s an older tried and true model without frills that’s a workhorse and rarely fails. I just don’t know what that would be and hence my posting for guidance.

    I’m open to be corrected but smart enough to read through hype.

    Thanks for your reply,

  658. KMD Says:

    Just bought a used 712 washer and dryer (it’s right at 2 years old, has all the original documentation, including a 5 yr in home service warranty (which is supposed to include a preventive service call once each year, and unlimited service and repair for it’s 5 year term.
    Thought I’d do a search on it to see what issues to look forward to (since I just got rid of a Kenmore top load that I replaced the rear “bearing” (which was nothing more than a metal receiver for the drum spindle to set in) 6 months ago ($35) and also two “slides” (the front of the drum rides on these over the door frame $20 set)) and they started squealing yet again….
    I’m about to set up a preventive maint. service call, and I will be over the tech’s shoulder with camera in hand to see what he says, and what he sees…
    I do have the “foul smell issue”, so I’ll ask him about that when he’s here. Not knowing the previous owners detergent of use, I’ll have to stick with HE liquid myself…
    I have also noticed the markings on the front panel are already wearing off, so I’ll have to see what they say about that.
    I’ll post my progress, and also see if I can get some insight on the current spider material used.

  659. Denise Says:

    Thanks for posting this video. Our Kenmore front-loader self destructed after 7 years of low use (3-4 loads a week)on mostly delicate cycle and using HE detergent. There was a sudden loud bang, after which a large quantity of rust and grit came out of the drain hose, punctuated by chunks of chewed-up white plastic. The Sears technician gave us a quote of $1,000 for repair. Since the washer cost about $500 new, that was simply ridiculous. I had originally bought the front-loader because of the environmental benefits, but it is hardly good for the environment that I have to send this large pile of metal, motor, pump, etc. to the junkyard prematurely because of a part designed to fail. We’re replacing it with a Samsung front-loader, and hope it will be a better machine.

  660. Rich Says:

    I have a 9.5-year old Frigidaire FWTB69RGS0 front-load clothes washer that I registered with Frigidaire in 2001. All 3 aluminum spider arms of the horizontal tub-spin assembly corroded and broke just beyond the spin shaft hub.

    Can anyone please tell me specifically what is the right procedure and tool(s) to get the old spin bearings out of the plastic outer tub half and the new bearings in without damaging the plastic tub?

    After researching the posts on this website, I called Frigidaire (now Electrolux) at 706 860-4110. I explained that my stainless steel inner wash basket tub-spin assembly with a 25-year warranty broke and I needed a warranty replacement part #131618500. The consumer services rep set me up with a customer account, checked inventory and ordered the part at no charge. Five days later FedEx delivered the stainless steel basket with aluminum spider attached (tub-spin assembly). McGuire Bearing Company, Salem, OR sold me Axis 6306 2RSC3 EMQ outer bearing, Axis 6307 2RSC3 EMQ inner bearing, and Durus 01990-N10 TC 40x80x10 double lip inner seal for $46.

    The outer portions of my broken spider arms were progressively less corroded. At and near the arms’ joints with the stainless steel basket, there was a nice protective coat of aluminum oxide and no significant corrosion. The center portions of the spider near the hub were deeply pitted and perforated near the breaks.

    The galvanic potential between the steel spin shaft and the aluminum spider it is cast into is relatively small. The galvanic potential between the aluminum spider arms and the stainless steel basket is also relatively small. The aluminum spider is anodic compared to both the steel spin shaft and the stainless steel spin basket and I would need to deform the new spin basket lip to get the spider arms free. Therefore I decided not to paint my new spider. If I can get another 9 years out of the new spider, I will almost have a real washer.

  661. KMD Says:

    @ Rich..

    Great info, thanks for sharing.

    Anyone with a 417 style unit that they are going to scrap, I’d gladly take your control boards, and displays off your hands. Mine is currently running fine, but I could warehouse the spare parts for future repairs, and even for others that might run into the “Sears Money Pit” syndrome…

    I’m also looking for white pedistals if anyone has ones they are going to throw out. I live near Atlanta, but would pay for shipping or possibly make arrangements for pickup.


  662. Woody Says:

    Denise: Let us know how the Samsung thing works out (even if 5 years from now). They built laundry for Maytag during Maytag’s last days. I was not impressed with the product. I understand Sansumg has made some changes so they might not walk across the floor anymore (especially on pedestals).

  663. JCS Says:

    Well, I replaced with the whole tub kit from Sears Canada (total w tax $260). If timing had been better financially for me I would have replaced it with something else. Anyway, seems to be good as new now. Can’t believe how quiet it is. It was already here as part of the house purchase (3 yrs ago) so I never heard it when new.
    Out of curiosity I disassembled the old tub and discovered the spider is actually in pretty excellent condition. So in my case it was just the bearings. (Could have saved some $$ if I had known that.) If anyone in the Toronto area is interested in the old tub kit including SS basket and big pulley for $70 CDN post here. (You will need new bearings, of course, unless yours are ok and it’s just the spider problem for you.) I have photos. Oh, no damage from the screws; problem wasn’t bad enough that they hit the plastic.

  664. Ed Smith Says:

    Our 8 year old front loader started leaking and the problem was a hole in the rear plastic tub. The tub is guaranteed for 10 years. Sears offered me a $129 flat labor rate and the parts were covered under the warranty. Further, SearCares offered me $50 off the labor rate. The washer was torn apart today and the aluminum 3 spoke “spider” mechanism looks almost new. There is no corrosion on it. Additionally, there are no screws protruding from the stainless steel drum as shown in the video just flush clips. The hole was most likely caused by the nail that ended up in the pump trap. I am extremely satisfied with this HE3t machine and have had no other problems except it taking sometimes 10 minutes to stop running when the timer shows one minute.

  665. Mike Says:

    I saw the video and would like to say the guy did a very good job of looking at the problem. BUT- i do not believe the corrosion of the spider was caused by galvanic corrosion, even though aluminum does not get along with stainless steel. It looks like a classic case of chemical action. What knucklehead would ever design a part out of aluminum and subject it to a chemical bath and expect it to live? Even softened water has salt which is corrosive to aluminum!

    And the manufactures blaming the bearing trouble on the detergent is pure B.S. The bearings are not subjected to moisture- the problem is seal failure! It is a poor design. Seals, even the best of them , will only last so long before they will start to leak a bit, then where will the was water go? The little dribble of soapy water that is designed to clean your clothes will also clean your bearings and deposit residue in them wrecking them in short order.

    If I sound disgruntled it is because once upon a time I was an industrial laundry machine repair guy who is now cursing his Frigidaire that has crapped out same as everyone else.

  666. David F Says:

    Mike finally someone who agrees with me!
    Please see my posts above, the last one dated 13 June 2010a and the first in October last year.
    I have to confess when I first saw the corrosion in mine I thought it was galvanic, to much exposure, on my part,to the corrosion of aluminium in seawater and in contact with steel. I soon realised my mistake.

  667. Elaine Says:

    A follow up to my May 4th Kenmore Front Load washing machine post, Woody was right my bearings were gone. Technician said anywhere between 440.00 and 700.00 for estimated repair. Corporate Sears would not provide any assistance, our machine being 4 years old. I negotiated with the local Sears store manager to replace my machine with a top load, direct drive motor with dials. After having talked extensively to a couple of appliance repair technicians, their suggestions – Stay away from Front Load Machines. The Sears store manager, had the new machine delivered and has agreed to reimburse me for the initial Service Call costs. Therefore, due to his efforts to correct the situation, I will still shop at Sears. I will never purchase another front load washer machine.

  668. Elaine B.Piper Says:

    A follow up to my May 4th Kenmore Front Load washing machine post, Woody was right my bearings were gone. My machine was a HE2 purchased in June 2006. Model # 110.46462501.Technician said anywhere between 440.00 and 700.00 for estimated repair.

    Corporate Sears would not provide any assistance. I negotiated with the local Sears store manager to replace my machine with a top load, direct drive motor with dials. After having talked extensively to a couple of appliance repair technicians, their suggestions – Stay away from Front Load Machines.

    The Sears store manager, had the new machine delivered and has agreed to reimburse me for the initial Service Call costs. Due to his efforts to correct the situation, I will still shop at Sears. I have learned my lesson and will never purchase another front load washing machine.

  669. Jerry Lusk Says:

    I have model # 110.46472500 Front loader washing machine and need to find a source for the rear seal. The bearings are easy to find but no one can identify the seal.


  670. KMD Says:

    So.. Today we had the annual PM service, the first for these units (these come with our extended 5 year ext warranty)..

    He says no problems noticed on either the washer or dryer.

    I asked him about the front panels that are getting hard to read the settings (lettering coming off from fingers turning knobs to change settings)… he says that’s “normal wear and tear”… He can replace the one on the dryer, because it’s cracking (for no known reason).. I tell him that in reading my 5 year extended warranty, it states it covers parts that are worn from “normal wear and tear”… so, he’s ordering both front panels, and will replace them next week. (these are listed on his handheld printout as around $160 labor and $52 for parts.. (this is for EACH of the two panels)

    I specifically asked about the spider arms, and he says he knows they do go out, but he just shook the drum around, said there doesn’t seem to be any problem at this time.

    these units are 2 years old… so we’ll see how they hold up….

  671. Todd Says:

    I too have this Kenmore washer which just failed in the same way mentioned by so many others. Sears Repair guy came by, charged me another $95 to diagnose (in two minutes) that this would be a $600 repair. Obviously this is a known issue, a flaw in design and a piece of expensive junk. There should have been a recall on this type of issue. Not only won’t I shop at Sears, I am canceling my long distance phone service plan, will stop purchasing gas from Petro Canada using my Sears card and will likely move all of my shopping habits elsewhere. My rationale is that I now have to recover $900 worth of value by not shopping at Sears and sharing my consumer dollars with vendors who can earn my trust. Not sure if they actually exist any more, but I am willing to try. It worked for me when I abandoned American car manufacturers for Japanese makes, and so I will go the same route with appliances now. Not sure why these companies haven’t figured out why there is such an economic crisis in their own back yard. Maybe product and service have something to do with it.

  672. Woody Says:

    Todd: Sorry to hear about your experience. Voting with your dollars is about all of us can do. Manufactures will rarely recall a machine for a product defect, but they will for a safety defect. In reality these machines have a useful life nowadays of 11 years by industry averages so if you machine is 6-7 years old the prorated value wouldn’t be that large.

    Many of the machines you might look at to replace that machine are simply the same machine with another name on it as has been pointed out in this forum. I’m not going to make any recommendations because it almost becomes a discussion like politics and religion. Someone is going to disagree with someone else’s opinion. I have my preferences and so far they haven’t disappointed me. But it is what I do for a living so I have some inside information.

    One bit of help I will give you is that there are many credit cards with no annual fee that give 3-5% back in cash or rewards for gasoline purchases. That amounts to 7-15 cents per gallon depending on your card and the price of gas. I save hundreds each year using these types of rewards cards (paying off in full each month). And they even give you $$ back for other purchases which on the price of a new washer might be as much as $20. So you could slowly recover some of that paper loss you have. My favorite is the Schwab Visa (there are others) that gives 2% cash back on all purchases. So buying a washer could be the doorway to a new investment portfolio. Thanks for sharing you story.

    PS: Above the doorway of every SEARS store is a slogan: SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR YOUR MONEY BACK. You don’t sound very satisfied to me 

  673. David F Says:

    To Todd
    You can always go to MySears.com and voice your opinions on one of the threads under the ‘discussions’ tab.I would suggest, Appliances in the column on the left, then under the ‘Refine Display’ banner ‘Washers and Dryers’ then look for the thread ‘Kenmore Front Load Washing Machines DEFECTIVE?’
    Sears seem to think that these failures are an insignificant percentage of the units sold – bet you don’t.

  674. Rebecca Says:

    If it’s reassuring to any of you, I have an 8 year old Front Load Washer from Sears, the model that was made by Frigidaire, and the spider arms and bearings are just fine. I know because when it started making a grinding sound and then stopped spinning dry, I made my handyman take the whole tub apart before I was willing to do any other fixes, just in case my tub had the problem described above. After all that work, my washing machine is back together and still doesn’t spin. But that’s ok because now, I’m going to investigate other possible diagnoses knowing that I won’t be wasting my money on a machine that’s already doomed. I was delighted to see that the spider arms were solid and the bearings are tight and working well.

  675. David F Says:

    To Rebecca.
    Delighted to hear your news. Would you let us know what is eventually found to be wrong with your machine? I am sure there are a few of us who are interested.
    Could you let us know what detergent(s) you use? Do you use any bleach or ‘Oxi’ products, or borax, or fabric softener, or any other laundry aid?
    Thank you

  676. Ron Says:

    Just so you know, I’ve been using my Kenmore front-loader for 10 years (bought in 2000) and haven’t had a single problem with it. And we’ve moved it twice in that time. I think the bellows will need replacing soon, that’s how I found this thread. But hey, it’s a 10-year-old rubber part–I don’t have any problem with having to replace it after long service.

  677. KMD Says:

    So today was the follow up to the annual Pm service call (under a 5 yr warranty). Last week the Pm service seemed fine, but had them order a new front panel to replace on both washer and dryer. both had cracks in the top of the panel, and also lettering was wearing off to be unreadable on a few of the settings.

    I questioned the repairman on why the constant “musty” odor… he says it due to too much soap used. IF using regular liquid laundry detergent, he says only use 2 teaspoons… he says the soap will solidify by the bearings, putting pressure on the bearings and making them and the spider bracket fail. He said to keep the odor at bay, once a month use a product called After Fresh (sold by Home Depot, Lowes and others..). An alternate would be to use 1 1/2 cups of bleach directly into the drum and run an empty load on heavy and hot.

    When I asked clarification on the annual PM under warranty (wondering if it’s once each calendar year, or once every anniversary year), he said once each calendar year.

    Once other thing he pointed out… on the dryer, he said there are four rollers… sometimes lint balls will accumulate on the rollers and cause a “thumping”. I didn’t even hear any thumping, but he did. He cleared out the extra fuzz on the rollers and stated it’s much quieter now. I guess that’s his trained ear.

    Even if I don’t have a premature bearing or spider failure, I do plan to ask them to thoroughly inspect those items prior to expiration of the warranty.

    So, that’s where it stands. Hope my info helps others in their future decisions.


  678. Roy Says:

    Re,JCS Says:
    June 21st, 2010 at 10:43 pm “Well, I replaced with the whole tub kit from Sears Canada (total w tax $260). . . . Out of curiosity I disassembled the old tub and discovered the spider is actually in pretty excellent condition. So in my case it was just the bearings. (Could have saved some $$ if I had known that.)If anyone in the Toronto area is interested in the old tub kit including SS basket and big pulley for $70 CDN post here.”

    I’m not in TO, but very interested- It’s got to be a lot cheaper than Sears. Can you contact me off list? Thanks. royhoward@telus.net

  679. Amy Says:

    I’ve been debating whether to replace my Kenmore 417 front-loader machine. Then I found this web-site. I’m pretty certain my spider arm is not broken because it doesn’t exhibited the problems described here. To bottom line my problems, over the past 2 years occasionally clothes will come out with grease stains on them. They are not brown stains, but clear grease stains. Also over the past 2 years the machine has quit rinsing the clothes clean. After one wash there is still lots of soap suds in the wash. I’ve reduced the amount of Tide HE soap I use to 2 tbsp, but this still requires that I run a load a minimum of 4 times on heavy cycle before the clothes rinse clean. My 1-year old has the stomach flu and laundry is backed up. I’m sitting here so frustrated at having to take all day to wash 1 load. How is that efficient or saving any water or energy? I’ve only ever used HE detergent. The detergent was building up in the dispenser drawer and we thought that may be why the clothes weren’t rinsing clean, so I’ve washed out the dispenser drawer and now only put the detergent directly into the tub through the open door before loading the clothes. I had mold problems back in the first year we purchased the machine, but leaving the door open between loads has cured this problem; I also wash all towels in hot water with bleach. We purchased it in 2000 because it received high ratings from consumer reports. I justified the extra expense thinking it would last 20 years. We’ve moved the machine about half a dozen times over the past decade across state lines and in various water supplies. It spins fine. After reading this string it sounds like the bearings may be leaking the grease onto our clothes, but why won’t the clothes rinse clean? Is it our water supply, in which case getting a new machine will not fix the problem? Or am I still using too much soap? I’ll try going to 2 teaspoons as one poster suggested, but why did this just develop in the past 2 years? It cleaned fine for the first 8 years.

    This is a great and very informative string. Thank you to all who have contributed.

  680. Robert Says:

    I have the Kenmore 417. series front loader that has been dismantled
    and have parts to sell cheap, my machine stopped spining due to a broken shock and was not able to decipher the problem soon enough. So it you need parts and do not want to spend a mint let me know. I will only charge 1/4 of the new price + shipping if necessary.

  681. Robert Says:

    I have the Kenmore 417. series front loader that has been dismantled
    and have parts to sell cheap, my machine stopped spining due to a broken shock and was not able to decipher the problem soon enough. So if you need parts and do not want to spend a mint let me know. I will only charge 1/4 of the new price + shipping if necessary.

  682. Repent Says:

    This is what happens when America has PRIDE. They start to produce DUNG. Pride goeth before destruction and an haughty look before a fall!! I had to replace the shock absorbers two years ago. I bought this GE front loader in 2001. And the spider arm just finally cracked right off last week. So I did get a longer use that most here. The spider arm looked like concrete and not aluminum. These engineers just be put in jail for letting millions of washers be produced, with these two metals, being put together!! I will definitely be contacting the next manufacture of what ever front loader we buy, to find out what the arm is made out of!!! I did get my moneys worth out of this machine though :) . I have not yet called to find out what it will cost but, from what everyone had said. THIS WASHER IS A DISPOSABLE PRODUCT, just like the brake rotors on cars today, use once and scrap! So is what happens to a nation when it turns its back on the Lord Jesus Christ!

  683. JJ Says:

    Previous posts have recommended painting the spider arm when replacing the stainless steel tub on the Kenmore front loading washer. I just received the replacement tub assembly with the attached spider arm (this was covered under the limited lifetime warranty in my manual, but had to have a $75 service call to verify that the spider arm was cracked and also had to replace the rear outer shell/bearing assembly for about $206 plus tax). I took out the 6 bolts holding it in, but am having a hard time gettng the spider arm out as it is in tight contach with outer rim of the tub. I don’t want to get too rough with it to prevent damaging the tub by either bending or denting it, so is there an easy way to remove the spider arm from the tub without getting too rough with it after removing the 6 bolts? Or do you have to somehow pry it out? Thanks for any advice on how to get the spider arm apart from the tub.

  684. Woody Says:

    All that work for a machine that can be replaced for $599 on sale. Plus you in many areas you can get up to $225 in rebates. Of course you are stuck with another GE Frigidaire or ? But the experience is worth it.

  685. JJ Says:

    To Woody,
    It may be a lot of work to replace the rear shell/bearings and/or the stainless steel tub assembly on a Kenmore front loading washer, but my philosophy is that I will repair things if possible and if not cost prohibative. I know we live in a disposable society and my philosophy doesn’t help the ecomomy as much as replacing everything whenever there is a problem with it and/or it needs repair, but I am just trying to keep more garbage/trash out of the land fills.

  686. David F Says:

    To JJ
    You have to pry it off but the following MIGHT help
    Place the basket on the ground, would suggest something under it for protection, rug or wood etc, with the spider shaft horizontal and one of the spider arms parallel to the ground, sit on the drum sufficiently to spring it ‘out of round’ but not enough to permanently distort it, and then spring the horizontal spider arm out. Replacement could be done the same way. You could also get a suitably sized friend or relative to ‘sit’ and thus leave you free to work at the spider arm.
    Hope this helps.
    I would also consider filling in the recesses in the spider at the hub so that no water and contaminants can collect there. That is only a suggestion but in my opinion will likely do more to cut down future corrosion and/or foul odours.

  687. Greg Says:

    Our died after 6 years. Same problem as everyone else, extremely loud banging noise on the spin cycle. Repairman came and said it will cost as much as a new washing machine to fix it. Sears has a lemon on their hands. DON”T BUY KENMORE!

  688. Adam Says:

    Started having problems a week or so ago. Found this video and decided to take mine apart to see what the deal was. I am having the EXACT same problem with those screws slicing away at the outer tube assembly! Mine is even worse – i can see indentations on the outer surface. There were several other symptoms that developed from this: 1) water not draining – the water trap that is meant for collecting items from entering the pump was full of these long, fibrous, plastic slices (in addition to 67 cents, thats my bad!). 2) where were these slices coming from? you guessed it, the screws chopping into the outer assembly, which resulted in taking the bearings out of alignment and causing the inner metal tub to rub and slice away the outer tube and rubber seal by the door. As a Mechanical Engineer, that is an F for design.

  689. Woody Says:

    Adam….”F” is for Frigidaire. I read a recent Consumer Reports last week a customer brought in. The like the “F” built laundry for its “value”.

    I noticed the Bosch washer models got two different ratings for vibration, yet the machines are identical in their tubs, suspensions etc. So why the different ratings?

    But actually if a $600 washer gives you 6 years of use and a $1000 machine gives you 12 years of use, which is the better value? And which is more eviromentally friendly? Amazing that CU doesn’t address those questions.

  690. David F Says:

    It is not the screws cutting into the outer tub that causes the problem with the bearings and/or the spider. It is the other way round. The bearings or spider fail allowing the inner drum to rotate out of alignment and thus allows the screws to contact and gouge slivers of plastic from the outer drum.

  691. andy Says:

    Heads up, folks – even the ‘good’ bearings will eventually fail, and spew black burned grease all over your clothes (in my case, both times it was a load of WHITES! DOH!) .

    I replaced the stock Japanese bearings (after about 4 years) with high-quality swiss bearings, and guess what: they lasted 8 years. I’m in the process of replacing them AGAIN, but $50 for bearings is MUCH better than $2000 for a new W/D!

    I recommend replacing your bearings the SECOND you get a noisy drum. Lesson learned.

  692. Joelle Says:

    I will never buy another Kenmore washer again, I haven’t even had mine for a year and already it’s having problems spinning and draining. I want Sears to give me my money back, I don’t feel that I should have to pay for a washing machine that can’t even last one year. The last machine I had was a Kenmore front loader and I spent $500.00 to have it repaired in the 5th year after the repairs it lasted one more year. I want a machine that will last 10 years is there such a thing?

  693. Woody Says:



    HOLD EM’ to it.

    10 year washer????????? Too early to tell with all the new machines out there. My bet is still on the Bosch. But having any machine that is used regularly and expecting no repairs in 10 years is unlikely. Last machine to be able to do that was the MAYTAG helical drive machine which would last 20 – 30 years with minimal repairs. But we became ENERGY CONCERNED and that machine will no longer pass energy standards so we by machines that last 5 years and throw them away!

  694. Sam Says:

    I Blame Sears. I bought all of my Kenmore brand appliances at Sear a little over 4 years ago and one by one they are all dying. it started with the dishwasher, stove came next and now my washer. I was given quiet a run around with my stove and dishwasher and ended up giving over $500.00 dollars to Sears technicians for shoddy work. after pleading my case with the president’ s office they offered me $50.00 gift certificate. this stupid machine is going out in garbage today, i won’t even try to repair it or have it repaired. Thank you Sears for selling CRAP.

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  696. John J. of N. Carolina Says:

    To anyone curious about my marine-grade epoxy repaired spider bracket (regarding my post of February 20, 2010) – the machine is still kicking along. As I mentioned in that post, I don’t consider repair to be professional, nor permanent, but it has lasted six months now. Granted we only do three or four loads a week, I would say that it has been a reasonable return on my investment in time and materials.

  697. jack in WA Says:

    well, so far so good in since April on our washer.

    commenting on Andy’s post above; if you had “stock Japanese bearings” you were extremely lucky and somehow outside of the standard. the OEM bearings in all models I’ve seen or read about were made in China.

    and finding Swiss bearings, actually ANY bearings, of these dimensions for $50 is amazing. please cite your sources so we can all take advantage of these prices. the best I could find anywhere for NSK brand bearings (Japanese) for these two was $75, either online or locally.

    I also highly recommend replacing the bearings at the first sign of a noisy drum.

    but I personally think you should be grateful about getting another 8 years out of a machine that was only engineered to last 2-3 years. that is simply incredible!


  698. TheMochaMom Says:

    I have the Frigidaire model and had the same problem- the spider broke completely in two places and made a jack hammer noise. I was told that it was covered under warranty for 25 years (that entire inner tube, spider, and shaft). The problem was this:
    1- in order to get it covered under warranty I have to pay a certified Frigidaire repair company to make a service call to diagnose it, order the new parts, and re-install it.
    2- Or I buy the part at $265 + taxes & shipping and re-install myself.

    So if I went with option #1, I will spend at least $300 just in that. So option #2 seemed more logical. But I spent numerous times calling Frigidaire and finally got one guy on the phone and told him what my dilemma was and basically told him Frigidaire made a crap part- many people on line with the same complaint, told him I was willing to contact the BBB and a lawyer, unless he wanted to make me a deal.

    Long story short- he sold me the part for a total of $186 with FREE 2nd day air shipping. So really- I couldn’t afford to go any other route.

    Perhaps this will helps others. Just make sure when you call- you don’t get put through to a foreign call center because those people are worthless and can’t do anything. Call the main number until you get a hold of the American office. Stand up for yourself. I did- and it paid off.

    Good luck to everyone with these problems. And- thanks to the blogger here for posting this great piece!

  699. Devon Hotelling Says:

    I think aboutheard of Klix makeup brushes. You don’t wash , you just “click” on new clean brush heads. What a great idea!

  700. Jerry Lusk Says:

    I have Kenmore 110.46472500 and would like a part number for the seal in the rear tub that covers the bearings. I have bearings but no one seems to know anything about the seal.

  701. Cliff Says:

    My Kenmore 970/”417″ front load washer sprider arm just died. I disassembled the washer to find it was pitted out and 2 out of 3 arms had snapped. This thing was designed to last 6-7 years max. Growing up I know our old washer ran for 15 years without a single service call. Where’s the quality these days?

  702. David F Says:

    Join the club all you can do is vote with your feet and $$$ and as I have said before let Sears know what you think of them and their washers at mysears.com click on the discussions tab, then appliances on the left, then washers and dryers, then post on an existing thread or start one of your own.

  703. David F Says:

    I have never had one of the Whirlpool made, which yours is, washer apart so I am not 100% sure but basing it on what I found on our Frigidaire built Kenmore the seals are a ‘special buy’ partially designed, I believe, to foil DIY people like you and I. Now the one out of our Kenmore was a 80x40x10 DL meaning it was 80mm on the outer diameter, with a 40mm hole through the centre and was 10mm thick with a double lip (DL), I would reckon yours will be somewhat similar but you will have to verify what yours actually is. Even if yours is badly damaged you can still measure the size of the housing and the shaft, the thickness should be easy to estimate, they only come in standard sizes. Armed with this information a decent seal supplier should be able to get you something that will suffice.
    Let us know how you make out and if your need more help.

  704. Woody Says:

    Cliff asked “Where’s the quality these days?”

    Answer: Beyond the $599 specials that Frigidaire and other sell.

    One thing to remember about SEARS. On every door… SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR YOUR MONEY BACK…… Hold them to their word.

  705. Woody Says:

    Cliff asked “Where’s the quality these days?”

    Answer: Beyond the $599 specials that Frigidaire and others sell.

    One thing to remember about SEARS. On every door… SATISFACTION GUARANTEED OR YOUR MONEY BACK…… Hold them to their word.

  706. Patti Says:

    Thanks so much for the video and postings! I have a Kenmore Model 417 that was purchased in 2000. Recently it began making that LOUD noise on the spin cycle. Yesterday I noticed black spots on the clothing and white plastic shavings in my wash. I scheduled a service call today and tonight read this posting. You just saved me the cost of a service call (I am canceling in the morning!) And no more Kenmores for me!!! After reading everyone else’s experiences, I guess I should feel “lucky” that mine lasted for 10 years!

  707. Mike B Says:

    I have a Kenmore 417.43042200 front loader purchased in 4/2003 which has met a similar demise to the others listed. However my tub seperated from the door gasket.It makes a rubbing noise when turned by hand which seems to go away if you support the front of the tub. My question is has anyone else experienced the gasket seperation? I am not sure if this is cause or effect of the bearings failing and continued use while ignoring the warning signs. My girlfriend just mentioned that the machine has been making noise for a while now. Kind of like riding the brake pads to the metal until the engineered warning sound goes away!! Anyway not sure if it is worth repairing as I know the tub will be scored by the paddle bolts.Seems they could engineer a better design w/ support on the front of the tub to take some stress off the rear bearing??

  708. jack in WA Says:

    to be fair, it’s possible the engineers who designed these particular models never did, or might never had the chance to do, long term research & development on the spider arms. or, conversely, they might have known full well that it would never last more than a few short years. the OEM bearings on the other hand are cheap & made in China. would it have stalled sales to have added another $20 to the overall price and have better bearings?

    but, as I’ve said before, this is just part & parcel of a disposable society. a lot of major companies in all areas only design things to last a few years so “we” will be forced to buy another one. whether theirs or another brand. doesn’t matter, they gotta sell stuff.

    but on top of that, any product, even well designed and manufactured items, can only last as long as a consumer is willing or able to maintain it properly. parts do wear out. even expensive & well designed machines break down eventually. that’s the nature of “stuff.” I think someone mentioned it above, entropy.

    honestly, I’m not sure that even a more expensive brand/version of a front loading washer will be all that much better or will last longer than a few years. time will tell.

  709. Woody Says:

    $20 a machine is HUGE in the manufacturing process. They make millions of these machines. 5 cents is big to them! Frigidaire and other are made to sold to the “masses”, not be the Lexus, Mecedes, BMW’s of the appliance world.

    When consumers start paying more for the better products then we will get better products. In the meantime enjoy shopping at WalMart.

  710. duskb Says:

    Woody Said September 12th, 2010 at 3:38 pm
    “When consumers start paying more for the better products then we will get better products. In the meantime enjoy shopping at WalMart.”

    Ok, I’ve gotta call you out on this, it’s just an excuse, and a lame one at that. This is the same sort of hogwash mentality I run up against in my industry. It’s a complete “chicken in the egg” argument. Sure, on one hand manufacturers are only going to build what sells (especially in lean times like now) but how will they ever know if a high quality product will sell or not if they don’t actually make the effort to create something that will last?

    I’ve seen the same thing in Pro Audio. Manufacturers that used to build the high end stuff in the 70′s and 80′s now pander to home musicians since the market is bigger. The Chinese stuff they build now is crap and ends up in a landfill in two years. Eventually the musicians figure it out.

    For this reason over the last 10 years cottage industries popped up around the country building product in the back of non-descript warehouses and garages that outperform and outlast anything with a major name on it. Now the cottage industry labels are worth as much as the “old blue chips” of pro audio. An industry reborn out of necessity, just like the micro-brew industry. People will pay extra if you give them something worth paying for.

    Trust me if just one manufacturer gave a damn and built appliances to last 15 years rather than to meet a price point, they would be doing just fine.

    We’ll never know however since none appear to have enough guts to try it at home first.

    History has proven me right on this…

  711. Woody Says:

    duskb: Sorry if you took it that way but it is the true. “Sell to the masses, dine with the classes!”

    There are manufactures who build better appliances. They cost more to build when they zinc coat steel so it won’t rust and use brass fittings instead of plastic, make spider assemblies from stainless steel and so on. Bosch builds a great washer and dryer. Has features, long lasting materials, exceeds energy standards, and has safety features to prevent floods. I have never replaced a spider or drum bearing on a Bosch Nexxt or Vision washer. But I constantly hear people say will “Gee, they cost $900, and I can buy a Frigidaire, Kenmore or GE etc for $599, that’s a lot of money!” Frigidaire knows how to manufacture a washer bearing. For heaven sakes, they bought the original mainstream front loader that Westinghouse and Gibson marketed back when I was still in grade school.

    There are maybe three really good machines on the market right now but they are NOT the brands and models people buy the most of and of course they cost more to purchase.

    I know you mention electronics. “White goods” (appliances) are quite different than “Brown goods” in many ways. Most electronics are throw away either because the technology becomes obsolete so fast or the replacement cost is so low who would spend $50 to fix any of it? Microwave ovens are like that in our industry. Right now they are on sale at WalMart for $39! Over the range models start at $159.

    I have been in discussions with engineers who we ask to make something more serviceable or long lasting. Example: adding two inches of wire so we can remove a component. “Can’t do it” they say “will cost us 3 cents per unit more and the bean counters won’t go for it”. Maytag engineers were asked to take $30 of cost out of one of their top load washers. They actually did it and sent the company into bankruptcy because the machines wouldn’t make it out of the warranty.

    The appliance industry is in the early to mid stages of where the electronics industry was 30 years ago. Main stream brands like Zenith, RCA, Magnavox, ect are now replaced by LG & Samsung (both Korean), and so on. Appliance brands like Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Jenn Air have been absorbed by Whirlpool and are simply brand names with no actual unique manufacturing. LG, Samsung, Electrolux (Frigidaire with lipstick) are becoming household names. Kenmore is still strong but what the heck is a KENMORE? It’s something someone else manufactured and slapped the Kenmore name on.

    When America DEMANDS better appliances by purchasing better appliances (and they will cost more) there will be more choices. But let’s not forget our own goofy government has driven many of these manufactures out of business due to regulation, not to mention the unions. BTW, the Bosch laundry is manufactured in North Carolina, not Korea!

  712. David F Says:

    Do you know of any frontloader that uses other than aluminium alloy spiders? I know Stabler uses uses stainless steel for their ‘axles’ but tomy mindthey are not front loaders>

  713. duskb Says:

    I don’t think too many Americans have a problem spending $1,000 on an appliance, I know I don’t. They do however have a major problem spending a grand on a piece of junk that barely lasts 7 years (without throwing alot of money at it.)

    I know when I looked over the machine landscape all I saw, from the highest ranked machines out there, was a 4 out of 5 in terms of reliability. IS THAT AS GOOD AS THEY CAN GET IT? Please, after 60+ years of experience, that’s an insult.

    If Studer, Sony, and Otari (which far surpass any “White Good” you can dream up) can build tape machines to make hit records for 30 years and counting, then why can’t GE, Bosch, and Whirlpool build a washing machine to last for 15 years without breaking a sweat? Seriously, a motor is a motor. Whether it handles a $20,000 master tape or washes your clothes it’s irrelevant. It’s how it’s engineered that makes the difference.

    Again, if “they” build it others will come. Someone just needs to take the first step.

  714. Woody Says:

    It’s been done !

    It’s not the motors that are failing. Read the article. Did you see any posts on a Bosch with bearing problems ?

  715. Circumnavigate Says:

    I really appreciate all the info I have found here. It’s been extremely helpful.

    This winter we moved into a condo with a nice front-loading washer; 8 months later it’s thumping like crazy. We’ve spent a couple weeks trying to balance it repeatedly and now I discover it is probably something a lot more serious. I think we are going to look into buying one of the better made washers (yes, we’ll look at those $1K Bosch washers). If every American throws a washer away every 5-7 years, well, the amount of trash/waste generated is awful to contemplate.

    I have to offer a different perspective though, Woody, on your off-hand comment that unions are/were part of the problem in creating cheap appliances. Employees (unionized or not) usually care a great deal about the quality of product their employer makes. Unfortunately, over the last 20 years, large companies have pursued the highest possible profit as their primary goal. Forget making good products at competitive prices, forget building a reputable company that rewards its workers for a job well-done. In the race for more profit it has moved its manufacturing to the cheapest places possible in other countries. They did this because they have no sense of obligation or even fairness to American consumers or workers. Inferior products are the result of these forces.

  716. SvcMgr Says:


    Me thinks Woody pushes Bosch Front Load Washers a little too much.

    As a past Bosch Regional Service Manager, I recall Bosch always had a good to high profit margin for the smaller/independent appliance dealer, but Bosch also suffered their fair share of performance problems. If Woody is a Bosch dealer, profitability, not just claimed reliability and improved quality, may influence his endorsement of the Bosch product.

  717. Eric Says:

    Just an update from my previous February 14th, 2010 forum submission.

    My washer bearings and seal failed again in May, 2010 after being replaced in January, so only about 4 months of additional life despite using NTN good quality name brand bearings.

    But what I should have done was replace the pitted and corroded spider arms which was very obviously out of balance, since this out of balance part no doubt lead to the ecentric and high loads on the seal leading to the seal to fail, the bearings to be contaminated by the wash water, soap, and dirt, and finally the bearing grease to contaminate my clothes causing them to stain.

    So based on the disturbing amount of problems I found during research on all! new models of high efficiency front load washers on the market, I decided to spend an additional $250 on this pig and replace not only the bearings and seal one more time, but also the basket and spider arm assembly.

    The new machines on the market, $700 to more than $1000 all looked like nightmares waiting to happen and looked more cheaply made(eg. the controls, buttons, etc.) than this Kenmore we already have.

    I’m betting that with an in balance basket assembly I can get this thing to live for 3-7 more years. The original parts lasted 7 years.

    Its been 3 months already and the machine is visibly and audibly more in balance.

    Just wanted to update everyone on my experience.

  718. David F Says:

    To Eric and others thinking of renewing bearings themselves.
    One thing to remember when tapping home races, only tap on the outer race, tapping the inner race or the carrier ring will bruise the races and the balls leading to reduced bearing life. I saw someone, whom I thought knew better, the other day tapping the inner race. So maybe it is not as well known as I thought.
    Should I seem to be ‘attempting to teach my Grandmother to suck eggs’ I apologise but I do think it is a valid point.

  719. joe manley Says:

    i would love to be in on a class action suit. the irony of buying an energy star that is purported to save you money on the energy savings, only to bilk you later for added cost in repair due to known poor design, sure seems fraudulent to me

  720. Charity Says:

    I have the Kenmore washer/dryer Model 417 which had a 5 yr warranty. I had a final check at the end of the 5 years, but now about 2 years later, both units are making noise and washer was thumping. Now the water won’t drain from the washing maching. Am I SOL? Can this be repaired reasonably?

  721. David F Says:

    Only if you can do the work yourself, or have someone do it for you for little or nothing.
    Another possible saving is should you live in Canada or close to the Canadian border and a Sears parts warehouse you can obtain a ‘tub kit’ part number 970134453200 consisting of the inner and outer drums complete with bearings seals and pulley for C$229.99 plus taxes and S&H (unless you pick it up yourself from the warehouse) Price was quoted to me 29 August 2010 from Sears
    You will need to check that the inner drum and spider ‘tub spin’ you need is part number 970 13161850, or give me your full model number and I will check it.

  722. Woody Says:

    Sell it as a boat anchor and buy a new washer. Even the do-it-yourselfers aren’t getting long life out of these after the fact.

    Your money would be better spent even if you bought another $500 Fridgaire or Kenmore.

  723. Chris Says:

    Same thing just happened to our Kenmore front loader. The repairman said he’s seen it happen to countless others before.

  724. Mike S. Says:

    My Kenmore / Whirlpool model 110.44832200 had the same problem as detailed; spider gear, seal/bearing, and shaft torn up, banging around, and leaking like $%^# !! SHAME on Sears for selling this POS.

  725. case Says:

    please, for all people, ship your kenmore 417 washer to me, the kenmore 417 washer is the best washer I ever had in the USA !!

  726. Allison in E ON Says:

    So – I’ve got a 4-yr old Kenmore Tumble Action front-load washer, Model 970-c44102-10. Tub (spider) bracket is gone, plus (after viewing the video above) I thinkj the protruding screws are shaving off plastic from the drumn housing.

    Am waiting for the Sears licensed technician to call me back witha quote, but am not heartened – esp after reading all of the above. I’d junk it and buy another make, but I have the washer-dryer set stacked, and would have to replace thedryer as well. Not quite ready to drop that kind of cash.

    Found a part at xxxxxx.ca – am wondering if it might be the elusive spider bracket – suitable to my make & model. Can’t tell from the site. An thoughts??

  727. David F Says:

    That is not the spider for your machine. That one is for Whirlpool machines, yours was manufactured by Frigidaire.
    There is a picture of what yours looks like at: -
    http://www.mysears.com/aboutme/jpm0940 just click on the thumbnails.
    Sears make available a ‘Tub Kit’ part # 970 134453200 for $229.99, this part consists of inner drum and spider, both ‘halves’ of the outer drum complete with bearings and seals, and the pulley. All you have to do is put it in. Sears want $255.00 for just the inner drum and spider.
    Should you be interested just make another post, I will pick it up and give you more details.

  728. Dave C Says:

    To Allison, I looked at the picture of the spider on parts select.
    It looks similar, but is different than the GE/electrolux and the
    identical other machine I worked on.

  729. Allison in E ON Says:

    To teh Daves – Thanks so much for the info! I have sent a query to Sears about the part you reference – waiting for a reply. Also for a quote from our technician.

    Has anyone manages to marry two non-related machines in a stacking arrangement? Rather than give Sears another penny, I’d love to get another washer (LG maybe?) … but space is an issue …

    Love the site – and thanks for the help! Has anyone tried an obudsman, BBB, media, or other to try and get Sears to own up to this problem?


  730. Woody Says:

    Allison in E ON:

    Whenever possible I advise my customers to build a shelf for the dryer rather than have them be one piece.
    1. Service tech does not need to remove a dryer from you washer to service the washer.

    2. Dryer is light weight and can be removed from the shelf and serviced independently of the washer.

    3. Limits vibration to the dryer caused by the washer.

    If you can do this then mismatching a product would not be a problem. LG dryers are ok, but there are others that are more service friendly like the Bosch and Whrilpool brands. If you are trying to save money on repairs Sears in not the place. See if you can find a good independent servicer in your area. Good luck.

  731. David F Says:

    That part number is only available in Canada and is supposedly only available to authorized Sears Service Technicians. There are several posts in this thread about it.
    Having said that Sears parts in Canada appear to have no problem quoting the price to anyone who sends an email and quite willing sent me one for my sister-in-law’s machine, see my post of 16 April 2010 above. When I ordered it over the phone I was asked where I got the part number from and I just quoted the email response I had.
    I agree with Woody about the Sears repairers, however in many parts of Canada, the authorized repairers are smaller independent outfits.
    Hope this helps.
    Any questions please make a post, or just let us know how you get on.
    I am assuming E ON is eastern Ontario as your model number is the Canadian variant.
    David F

  732. Bearing Service Says:

    It is ridiculous is powdered detergent is related with this problem. If Kenmore had attentive customer service monitoring the Web, they should have someone leaving a comment here explaining their position on the front load washer failures.

  733. David F Says:

    To Bearing Service,
    Should you think it is bad here go to Sears own site MySears.com and go to the discussion boards, and that is their own site.
    I normally encourage disenchanted Sears clients to post their opinions there.
    David F

  734. Don Says:

    We have a GE wpxh214A0WW washer. It started making a lot of noise during the spin cycle. I found one of the shocks broken so I replaced them, but it still made a lot of noise. Then I learned about the basket spider bracket breaking. Our tub was very loose so I assumed that was the problem. I found prices from $250 to $550 for the basket. Then I saw a post that it was covered under a 10 year warranty, so I checked our manual and sure enough it was. I confirmed this with GE and had a service tech come out to see how much it would be for the labor to replace it. The labor came to $466 (including the $79.95 service call.) It may have been more since we have our dryer stacked on top of our washer. We didn’t have him fix it since that was more than half of a new one, and they give you a coupon code for $79.95 off a new GE appliance to make up for the service call. My wife suggested we call GE and see if they would give us the part and we could replace it ourselves. After several calls we contacted the Resolutions Team at 888-239-6832 and after checking the model and serial number they agreed to ship us the part to our house for no charge, not even shipping. Should arrive in 3-5 Business days.
    I don’t know if we needed to have the service tech come out or not, but in the end we are getting a new basket for $80, so I’m happy.

  735. Allison in E Ontario Says:

    Woody – Thanks for the suggestion – I am definitely looking at replacing my washer, as the tech quoted OVER $700 to fix the problem. I may yet hear back from Sears about the part being available more cheaply – but I think we will throw in the towel on this unit.

    Also having to deal with a bad sulphur reducing bacteria problem will be installing a peroxide injection system and carbon filter). Not sure the extent that our highly corrosive water (even the moist air) was involved in our washer’s demise. Looking fwd to having that resolved.

    Any tips on how to build adryer shelf? I Googled around last night, but came up with nothing specofic. Will talk to my carpenters about it, too.

    TX for all,


  736. Woody Says:

    Can’t advise on the shelf building without see the site. If it is a narrow area then two support running front to back on each wall screwed into studs and then a thick shelf able to hold 200lbs approx.

    Much like the way they build an oven cavity in a kitchen. Good luck to you.

  737. Scott Says:

    We had our GE front loader sound like it exploded last night. Disassembled it – busted spider.

    This unit was new in August 2008. In Feb 2009 we had the entire drum assembly, control board and motor assembly replaced under warranty. That took about 12 days because the control board that was shipped was bad out of the box. The tech said that it looked as though the machine never worked correctly. In fact, my wife complained when it was new that she could not believe the noise it made (loud banging).

    We’re done – this thing is junk. I am buying a Whirlpool today.

  738. Jay Says:

    I am amazed at how accurate all of these blogs are. Apr. 2003 we purchased our piece of SEARS GARBAGE. Our machine before that was a used Maytag that was 35 years old when we upgraded (thats right,the Maytag was still running). Thanks for your advise before I spend any money on this SEARS SHIT. They certainly don’t make them like they used to….Thanks again.

  739. Craig Lanese Says:

    To David F:
    Looks like I will have to get my basket & tub assembly from you friendly folks up north – not terribly far from Cleveland – no luck at all even trying to get the part/assembly number I need from Sears USA. I have a Kenmore 110.42822201 (same as Whirlpool Duet GHW9100L / GHW9200L). Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated – Canadian equivalent washer model number, Canadian part/assembly number or whatever else you can provide.
    Thank you, Craig L

  740. David F Says:

    To Craig Lanese,
    Sorry but that assembly is only for some of the Frigidaire made machines, yours, as you correctly observe, is made by Whirlpool. The Whirlpool parts are expensive which ever side of the border you shop. To get the part numbers you require you can go to sears.com/partsdirect, put in your model number and view the exploded diagrams.
    Sorry again but you are now looking at big bucks even if you can do the work yourself.

  741. Cralg L Says:

    Thanks David. I was afraid that would be the case. There seems to be a glut of good used top loaders in this area at reasonable prices so I think we’ll just step off the front loader train for a few years and wait until someone in the industry gets it right.

    I thought I had found the holy grail when I discovered the Staber top loading horizontal axis machine – axis is supported by bearings front and rear – but the number of negative reviews regarding multiple service issues in the first year give a strong impression of a great idea poorly executed…and at $1,300 USD.

    Meantime I will spend a few evenings stripping parts off my Kenmore and hopefully can part it out for enough $$ to partially offset the cost of our temporary top loader. Our Kenmore was a delight for 7 years until the spider blew out, so motor, circuit board etc should still be good.

    Thanks again for your response.

  742. Mike P. Says:

    Good forum and thread. I have decided to repair my Kenmore model 417.29042991. I will try and post a full report when (if) I actually get it fixed. While I’m waiting for parts …. basket/spider, bearings and seal … I have one question (probably more to come). It seems the consensus is split about 50/50 on painting / not painting the new spider before reassembly. Does anyone have any longer term experience or evidence that it actually helps and is worth the effort? Thanks.

  743. David F Says:

    To Mike P.
    Actual evidence no. However common sense would indicate that anything that kept the ‘water’ off the aluminum alloy spider should be beneficial. This does not include anodizing.
    One thing, I believe, you should seriously consider is filling in the recesses in the spider. This will keep the ‘corrosive water’ out of them and also block any build-ups that can lead to foul smelling ‘crud’. There is a photograph of such crud at: -
    I also encourage disgruntled ‘Kenmore’ owners to let Sears know their thoughts at: -

    Good Luck. Let us know how you get on.

  744. max Says:

    We had a Kenmore model 11047571602, at 3 months out of 1 yr warranty the unit started getting noisier, we had called the sales person before baout the noisy operation and were told that is “normal” for a front load. The “usual” noise turned into a thump, which grew louder to the point we disconnected the unit. We were advised to have a sears service tech have a look. He found that the concrete counterwieght had split in two and dropped down into the lower part of the washer, two metal tabs had busted off the front plastic tub and dust had damaged the motor, as well the fallen concrete piece had damaged the drain pump. Sears put us through the ringer with their version onf customer service, the bottom line is that the unit is out of warranty, go away. I will not shop at sears again due to the customer service department. The store managers hide behind it, truly pathetic. We have gone back to a cheap top load machine that cleans clothes and does not smell or make much noise. I am shocked that the product has not been recalled.

  745. Woody Says:

    MAX: Are you satisfied ?????

    SEARS….”Satisfaction Guaranteed or your MONEY BACK”. It’s on every door at every Sears store. Hold em to it! Write to Chicago if you have to. I did.

  746. Scott Forster Says:

    I have a Sears Kenmore Front load washer, Model 110.42822202 which is a Whirlpool and have had it for just over 6 1/2 yrs. We always used the HE3 detergent. It was making more noise than usual and then started banging very hard as if it was out of balance. I took it apart and found what everyone else found – the spider frame on the basket that holds the spindle has disintegrated. Now Sears is telling me I have to get a Service Tech @ $129 out here just to order the parts, even if I do the work myself. I paid $1100 for this piece of garbage, and it is the last time I buy from Sears.

  747. Craig L Says:

    Finally tore apart our Kenmore 110.42822201 (same as Whirlpool Duet GHW9100L / GHW9200L). To my surprise, there was some surface corrosion on the spider frame, but nothing like the level of disintegration seen in the video (and we never used special HE detergent). Regardless, 2 of the spider arms were completely broken from the hub and the third arm was showing cracks but not yet broken through. Just an uneducated guess on my part, but I think the spider would fail prematurely due to stress/fatigue cracks – the corrosion just helps it happen sooner. You just can’t cantilever that much moving weight without a bad result down the road.

    This model doesn’t have the protruding screws to gouge the plastic drum, but the front lip of the steel basket wore through the plastic lip at the front of the drum.

    Picked up an 8 year old lightly used Kenmore top loader from craigslist for $75 that works just fine. Yes, we use more water, the spin cycle doesn’t get the clothes as dry and the “new” top loader looks kind of funky next to the HE3 dryer…but the laundry room no longer smells like a cesspool and I expect that with our light usage of 2 to 3 loads/week this “temporary” washer will last as long as the potential $600 to $800 repair job. If not, we’ll just find another cheap used top loader.

    I can understand a design flaw happening, but the piss poor way Sears has handled customers who shelled out over $1,000 ($2,000 if you count the matching dryer) for the latest and greatest is unforgivable. We don’t shop at Sears anymore…for ANYTHING.

  748. Christopher Says:

    This coming Black Friday Sears is offering a matching front loading washer and dryer (Kenmore 4.0-cu ft washer, #02649032 and
    Kenmore 7.3-cu ft dryer, #02689032 respectfully) for cheap.

    I wanted to replace my 13 year old Whirlpool top loader. I’ve made a few repairs on the Whirlpool and need to put another $50 or so into it to get it working properly.

    Reading all of these forum posts is making me reconsider my planned purchase.

    I may have missed it, but can anyone tell me if this design flaw is still a built in feature? Although I can pick up the pair of Kenmore front loaders for $600 USD total, it’s not worth it if I’m going to have a lemon on my hands.


  749. Woody Says:

    Christopher: I am not a Kenmore fan at all. In fact you rarely can find me in a Sears store. But if you can actually get a set at that price then even if they only last 6-8 yrs you haven’t wasted your money. LAST YEAR Sears had a similar promotion. They couldn’t deliver the product, they over-sold it.

    Sears is a department store. They do not build their own appliances. They contract the other manufactures to build all of their appliances. There is a chart at:


    which will help you determine who actually built your appliance, then you can choose the manufacture from the chart on this page.

    The first 3 digits of the model# determine who built it. This way you at least have a chance knowing the manufacture of the product and if you are getting a Whirlpool, LG, Frigidaire, etc.

    Enjoy black friday :)

  750. Bruce Says:

    Woody – do you know the prefix for the aforementioned Black Friday specials? I just have the same numbers he does, the last eight. Bruce

  751. Woody Says:

    Bruce: I looked at the ad and they don’t have the prefix on the ad. I can’t tell from the picture which brand it is either. But the pictures lead me to believe they are LG. The location of the pump clean out on the washer and other cosmetic features.


  752. Christopher Says:


    You do bring up a good point, if I were able to secure a machine, at such a low price, it would possibly be worth it, even if they don’t last longer than eight years. Although, in eight years my oldest will be in college so I’ll probably have LESS money than I do today! Hahah!

    Thanks for the additional information on Kenmore manufacturers as well. Sometimes it’s far too easy to not include enough information in a blog post, but I do indeed know that Kenmore is just a name plate on the front. We have a house-full of Kenmore appliances that have needed work over their life so that was something I learned early on.

    Now to just stake out my spot in line for Friday morning. With only four pairs per store, I better get their early.

    Thanks again!

  753. Pam Says:

    Was looking for info on recall of Kenmore front loading washers and came upon this site. Our 110 model Kenmore Elite is 5 years old and it started making lots of noise and leaving flecks of plastic in the wash. We called a repairman out this week and were told that the entire basket and belt has to be replaced. Mind you, we are a family of two adults who don’t do laundry every day. We have always used the HE liquid detergents. Is Kenmore planning a recall on these units. We paid far too much for the set to have it go out already. The total for the parts is more than $350.00 It just doesn’t make sense. The repairman said he had a stack of repairs for front loaders that is rediculous. I work for Sears so you can imagine how upset I am. In addition, my husband is questioning my laundry capabilities. Wish I had known about this web site before we made the investment in our machine. Are there any alternative solutions I can pass on to my repairman? My stainless basket appears to be in perfect condition to me.

  754. Mike P. Says:

    Pam – Sorry to hear about your washer. Unfortunately, it sounds like the spider bracket on the back of your basket has failed … (or maybe bearings), same thing that happened to my Kenmore. There really aren’t any good options. You can’t just get the spider part alone, however, some people on this forum have pushed Sears hard enough to get them to replace the basket/spider under the 10 year basket warranty. I successfully repaired mine myself, and will post a complete report soon. However, even doing it myself, parts for the basket/spider and new bearings were $230, plus a LOT of hours of my own labor. I think most agree that having someone else repair it is just not worth it, and end up getting a new one, and not a front loader. I haven’t read of any recalls. Sorry I couldn’t give you better news.

  755. David F Says:

    I agree with Mike P. As you may know the 110 at the start of a Kenmore model number indicates it was made by Whirlpool. To see what a failed Whirlpool spider looks like please visit http://www.mysears.com/aboutme/jpm0940
    As for a recall, you will be lucky. In my opinion there is plenty of evidence ‘on the web’ that Sears, and their suppliers will not do that, unless they are force to by a legal ruling.

  756. Case-florida Says:

    Mike P. Says:
    November 11th, 2010 at 4:22 am

    Good forum and thread. I have decided to repair my Kenmore model 417.29042991. I will try and post a full report when (if) I actually get it fixed. While I’m waiting for parts …. basket/spider, bearings and seal … I have one question (probably more to come). It seems the consensus is split about 50/50 on painting / not painting the new spider before reassembly. Does anyone have any longer term experience or evidence that it actually helps and is worth the effort? Thanks.

    Painting does not help to Preventing galvanic corrosion working, that is the reason that the “spider” eats up , a better thing to do is to install a Magnesium “rock” in the washer to prevent this corrosion.

  757. Case-florida Says:

    The spider on my kenmore is just broken, 5 years old, least year I replaced the bearings and seal ( Bearings you need; 6306 ZZ and 6307 ZZ and seal 40X80X10 (metric) and take seal with Stainless steel spring !!) today I was going to a Sears store and asked for the manager told my store and showed the broken spider and basked, within 1 min. the manager told me to leave the store with the basket or he will call the police !!, so I left the Sears store and that is for the rest of my live!!, this week I will try to make a spider out of SS.
    Sears does NOT stand behind her products anymore,

  758. Case-florida Says:

    The bearing I told you , is for a Kenmore 417 ++++++++++++ machine

  759. David F Says:

    To Case-florida,
    I do not believe the corrosion of these spiders is galvanic corrosion between the aluminum alloy spider and the stainless steel drum.
    I have said it before, on this thread and elsewhere, for the corrosion to be galvanic the majority of the corrosion would be at the junction of the spider arms with the stainless steel drum.
    There is a very good paper by a couple of guys Lister and Cook) out of the University of New Brunswick on galvanic corrosion. You can view it at: -
    There is also an interesting, one page, paper on what I have always called the pitting corrosion of aluminium at: -

  760. jonM Says:

    Yesterday my front loader starting making a very loud thump. I pulled the back off and it appears the spider arm is fine. I rotate the arm and it appears the basket inside is grinding against the side of the tub. Its almost as if the whole basket is falling forward (toward the front door). Is this a shot bearing? Any advice would be great – thanks.

  761. ric7441 Says:

    BUY EXTENDED WARRANTIES !!!!! or suffer the concequences of off shore manufacturing

  762. Mike P. Says:

    to jonM – What you think is the spider is most likely the pulley. The spider is attached to the back of the metal basket and is inside the plastic tub and is not visible by just taking the back of the washer off. What you describe sounds like the spider bracket has broken. I think that somewhere in this thread there is a link to a picture of the spider. It’s hard to tell if the bearings are shot just by turning it slowly, but they are most likely at least worn, too. I repaired mine, and will be posting a summary soon, but in the meantime this video of mine might help answer your questions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=483xqXiwLYw

  763. jonM Says:

    @ MikeP – thanks. I found another site after I posted this and realized that I was probably looking at the wrong thing! Sounds like I am SOL from the sounds of it. I had already replaced the pump in this thing a few years ago after it went bad (i think the part was around 100 bucks). I’m not too keen on dumping a ton more money in to it if the design flaw hasn’t been fixed and I will be in the same spot in 4 or 5 years (if it doesn’t have yet another problem surface).

  764. Tom Says:

    I just bought a home (in the US) that came with a 5 year old Kenmore 3.5 cubic feet front loading washer that has the same annoying loud clanging noise when it spins. The model no. is 417.44052400, and the washer was built in 7/05. When the washer spins, the entire house rattles and I am worried that something in the house will become loose or break. Now I haven’t taken apart the machine, but I am confident based on the posts here that this is the same problem. I am pretty handy and feel I can manage the repair. When I called Kenmore, I found out that I was out of warranty. The rep offered a deal for $319 where a tech comes out, investigates the problem and fixes it, and replacement parts up to $500 are included. Additionally there a 1 year parts and labor warranty is included. If the tech can’t fix it, I will get a $500 certificate to an appliance at Sears.

    I am thinking that this is a good deal. The parts alone will come to around $300. I plan to open it up to confirm that the spider arm is cracked. Does anyone else think I should jump on this, or should I just buy a new one?

  765. David F Says:

    Could be spider and/or bearings.
    Seems to melike a fairly good deal from Sears but I think I would also check to see if I could get a Master Protection Plan.
    The ultimate choice is yours and the failure is likely to occur again.

  766. David Says:

    Same problem with my kenmore 417 that everyone else is having. The manufacturing process is so standardized these days that many different brands use the same basic design.

    Does anyone know if the design flaw has been fixed in these machines and if so, as of what manufacturing date?

    Does anyone know of a design that uses SS spider arms or have worked out another solution (insulated contact between the aluminum and SS or a sacrificial metal of some kind)

  767. David F Says:

    As I have said on this thread, and elsewhere, I do not know of any front load washer readily available in N. America that does not use an aluminium alloy spider, which includes Speed Queen and Miele.
    As far as I am aware those manufacturers’s who suffer from it have not addressed the corrosion problem. Should you ‘Google’ spider failures or spider corrosion on Miele, Speed Queen or Bosch, washers you are unlikely to get one relevant hit. I know Speed Queen and Miele do not utilise spiders with recesses near the hub. I do not know about Bosch.
    I do not believe, as I have stated before, that the corrosion is due to galvanic action between dissimilar metals. Should that be the case the majority of the corrosion is would be at, or very close, to the junction of the two metals. That is at the outer ends of the spider arms. There is a very good paper on galvanic corrosion at: -


    I believe that the corrosion is due to chemical corrosion caused by laundry aids having a pH value above about 8.0 and have expressed this view, and a more detailed explanation elsewhere in this thread.


  768. Woody Says:

    As a authorized service provider for most major brands (excluding Speed Queen and Miele) we just don’t have that many bearing failures on machines manufactured in the last 5-7 years. The original Maytag Neptune had a fair amount but mostly was caused by oversudsing.

    We do a large volume of Bosch in our area and I am only aware of one tub failure on the Nexxt or Vision laundry and that was a spider that the bolts were not properly secured in manufacture. Other than that their have not been any. Many of our long term customers that have the Bosch laundry are using machines 7-8 years old now that are still working fine. Time will tell but my expectations is that a product should last a couple of decades. These machines seems to be candidates to meet that expectations.

  769. Mike P. Says:

    Kenmore washer repair final report
    Warning …. this is kind of long.

    Sears Kenmore Model 417.29042991 (c. 1999?)

    Washer suddenly started making loud, banging noises during final spin. Basket was loose inside tub. I researched online and found out the problem was probably that the spider bracket was broken. Maybe bearings, too. After much thought, I decided to repair it for several reasons: The newer front loaders are slightly wider than this one and I would have to totally redo the door opening to get a new one to fit. The new ones have gotten horrible reviews, so I would still be getting a POJ. My matching, stacked dryer, that works fine, probably wouldn’t fit on a new one. Plus, I don’t like being defeated by a machine.

    After researching, I found the following parts numbers and sources:

    Basket/spider bracket part # 131618500 $178 (incl shipping) Mel-co / Ebay

    Outer bearing 6306-2RS
    Inner bearing 6307-2RS
    Seal 40x80x10DL
    Original seal p/n 1312757

    I got the bearings and seal from McGuire Bearing Co., Salem, OR ($50.85 incl. shipping) These are made in China, but in talking to McGuire’s, they assured me that they are good and that they stand behind them. We’ll see.
    Axis 6306-2RS C3EMQ
    Axis 6307-2RS C3EMQ
    Durus 01990-N10TC 40x80x10 double lip

    I used the old tub gasket, but if you need that, the part # is 131275900, and runs about $25.


    Take lots of pictures and notes when taking it apart, especially of wiring and tub springs.
    The following 2 page pdf file of instructions is very helpful.

    Even with rear tub weight off, the tub is pretty heavy.
    Use 1/2” socket and pliers on the shock pins to remove.
    The water fill hose clamp was pretty hard to unclip, but managed with a pliers.
    I left the door seal on the tub. The part that attaches to the front comes off easily.
    I popped the old inner bearing seal off with claw hammer.
    Both bearings came out without too much trouble by using a long wrench extension, hammer, wood blocks, etc.
    This is a very helpful video explaining the bearing removal and replacement.

    While I had it apart, I cleaned all the parts, including the tub, door seal, door glass, etc., and removed the tub drain and cleaned out the coin catcher.


    Due to the failed spider, the inside of the tub had two gouges … one pretty deep, the other one superficial. I filled them in with JB Weld.

    New spider: Removed from new basket. Had to pry lip of basket a little, but not too much. Wire brushed, cleaned and primed spider. Painted with 2 coats of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Paint (white). Baked in oven 275 degrees for about 30 min. Let sit over night. Bolted back onto basket. It seemed to form a hard, durable finish, but the jury is out as to whether it’s necessary, or even a good idea, to paint the spider.


    Bearings: I put the new bearings in the freezer for a day before assembling. Heated inner housing a little with hair dryer. Spray lubed, then used wood blocks, hammer, old bearings to install. All went in easily

    Bearing seal: Spray lube first. Put in with wood block and hammer.

    Basket shaft/rear tub: Took basket baffles out of old basket and installed them in new basket, using shorter screws (10×3/4” sheet metal). Cleaned/shined up shaft. Greased shaft and seal. Shaft went on easily. Pounded pulley on and then bolted it.

    Tub: I reused old tub gasket. Made sure it was clean and used thin bead of GE silicone (the permanently flexible kind) before mating the 2 halves. Bolted in an opposite pattern. Used wood blocks, deflated basketball and styrofoam to support tub when putting it back in.

    Front door rubber gasket: Used a few dabs of black silicone sealer on front lip. Wire clip on filler hose secured OK with pliers. (Suggestion … use zip tie if you can’t get the wire clip on)

    I used a little Hetman’s trumpet slide oil (synthetic) on all hoses and fittings when putting them back on.

    On the first trial run there was a small leak at the main tub drain hose. Repositioned and sealed with GE silicone. Don’t put it on too far, there is a notch. Align guide with notch and position clip just below it.


    Ironically, the screws for back panel are the size that should have been used for the basket baffles.
    Don’t throw away old basket before removing old baffles. You will need those, as they are not included in the new basket.

    Use foam plastic, swimming pool noodles to help dampen vibrations between machines or between a machine and wall.

    My washer is 10+ years old and came with my condo. It made it longer than most, so I don’t have quite the negative feelings towards Sears as most do. I’m surely not defending them for keeping the same design flaws in products year after year …. that’s unconscionable. However, to design a washer to work on its side (and take use and abuse, load after load) isn’t easy. Looking back on this project, knowing what I now know, even though I’ve now got a great working machine, I’m not sure I would have done it. Parts ended up costing about $240 and my time spent was well over the 4 to 5 hours others mentioned. I like mechanical challenges, but this one just about maxed out my fun meter.

    Here are a few pictures of my repair and a short video of the result.

    Good Luck!!

  770. David F Says:

    There is a thread on this site: -
    that deals with complaints regarding Whirlpool manufactured machines, including bearing failures. According to posts on this thread one entrepreneur has even put together a seal and bearing kit, and is marketing the same for these washers.
    Whilst I agree that the incidents of bearing and/or spider failure appear to be fewer than for the earlier Frigidaire manufactured machines I do not know, for either manufacturer, what the percentage rate is. I do believe there is sufficient
    Evidence on the internet to indicate that Whirlpool have not come close to eliminating the spider/bearing problems associated with some types of these machines. There are photographs of failed Whirlpool spiders at the following sites: -
    add to these the F!! and F35 error failures enumerated on many sites on the internet and Whirlpool would appearto have something of a lemon on their hands. Just my opinion.
    To add to the Whirlpool troubles it has recently come to my attention that there are a couple of Class Action Lawsuites against Whirlpool primarily concerning foul odours given off by these machines The relevant sites for these are: -
    In the USA http://softsolder.com/2010/07/15/sears-kenmore-he3-washer-drum-the-rot/
    and in Canada http://softsolder.com/2010/07/15/sears-kenmore-he3-washer-drum-the-rot/
    As I said they are primarily concerned with the foul odours but the Canadian site also references corrosion.

  771. David F Says:

    Reference my post above.
    My apologies the websites for the lawsuits are: -
    In the USA http://www.lieffcabraser.com/cases.php?CaseID=126

    And in Canada http://www.whirlpoolclassaction.ca/

    Once again my apologies.

  772. Kim Says:

    We have had problems with our Kenmore HE 110 since we bought it almost 5 yrs ago. Under the extended warranty they have done major repairs over the years. 2 months ago, they replaced nearly everything except the electrical unit. The same problems remained: no high speed spinning, moving around the room, etc. Since the complete overhaul, 2 more parts broke and I was worried about the warranty running out. The repairman said I needed a certain number of calls in a month with a repair done to get it classified as a lemon. I finally got around to calling again, yesterday. With hardly any discussion, they looked at my 7 repairs and said they’d call me back in a couple of days about getting a replacement. They called back 3 hours later and I have a $830 voucher for a new machine with free delivery & removal of the old one. So, I recommend keep calling on the warranties and keep asking about getting it listed as a lemon. The replacement department was super nice. Can’t wait to buy a Samsung!

  773. Doreen Says:

    We have a Kenmore front load washer model 970 (guessing this is the “417″ Electrolux/Frigidaire) and the drum stopped turning on it last week.

    The repair man who came to look at it said that it was the speed control. That part alone was $258 but we managed to find a way to get it cheaper. At any rate, here we are, a week later with the new part installed and still no proper working drum. It turns now during the wash cycle but has no real spin cycle and so the clothes are still sopping wet. We looked at the drum and spider arms and they’re all intact and fine. My husband did some further reading and figured that some rubber filter part (very technical, I know) had something to do with it and so, pulled it out and cleaned it. We found a guitar pick and $2.25! Put it back together after a good clean out but still, no such luck.

    If it didn’t cost so damn much to get a replacement set, I’d be all over a nice new one but, that being said, the new sets don’t even have the same features available that this set does! Very frustrating to think that one would have to pay more and get less, regardless of the brand, make or model.

    Until we get a call back from our repair guy, it’s off to the laundromat to give someone else our hard earned money.

  774. jen Says:

    My newer (3 years old) front loader leaks like a sieve…..always used the appropriate detergent. No excuses Sears — what a hunk of junk! My dryer (Lady Kenmore — so you know that’s old!) is old, but still going. Sears used to be the name to buy — not anymore. Same with my vaccuum. The highest rated cannister per Consumer Reports – what a hunk of space junk. Broke, replaced, broke again– all within 2 years. Junk, junk, junk! Funny thing, used to be advertised on Amazon, but after all the negative ratings — and all of the ratings were negative — it was pulled and is no longer on Amazon! Now have a great Dyson. Sears/kenmore =junk.

  775. DJ Says:

    Our Kenmore washer just died +/- 6 yrs old

    Pulled off the back and haven’t gone to the lengths of taking apart the outer drum but imagine that we had the same problem (at least the symptoms sound the same). The washer made a huge amount of noise on spin and suddenly started leaking large amounts of water.

    I can add that when I pulled off the back I found our outer drum had a 3-4″ hole in the back and had cracked almost back to the shaft.

    Don’t think that I’ll ever go back to Sears again.

  776. Woody Says:

    DJ : Granted I am not a Sears fan. But I see so many people say “I’ll never go back to Sears again”, and then then go to Lowes, or HomeDepot or elsewhere and by the same product all over again, only this time is says, Frigidaire or GE or some other name. The problem is all about Sears, it’s about what we are willing to pay for the products we buy. When people quit buying $499 washers then they will most likely get something that lasts longer. It takes a lot of research and faith. It’s a tough job for consumers. Good luck.

  777. SteveO87 Says:

    I also have the Kenmore 417. A little over 6 years in use, only my wife and me, it has the same issues above — loud clunk on spin. Probably bearings and spider shot. Only used HE this whole time, never anything else, and always a small amount (below the line in the detergent cup “lid”. What a shame, we expected it to last at least 10 – 15 years. I read most of this entire thread, it looks like a scant few people have gotten their washers fixed by Sears — but still had to pay at least $120+ to do so. That is still wrong. Sears should just cover it, period.

    Sorry to say I won’t be shopping Frigidaire or Kenmore again. Goodbye, Sears.

  778. SteveO87 Says:

    I also have the Kenmore 417. A little over 6 years in use, only my wife and me, it has the same issues above — loud clunk on spin. Probably bearings and spider shot. Only used HE this whole time, never anything else, and always a small amount (below the line in the detergent cup “lid”. What a shame, we expected it to last at least 10 – 15 years. I read most of this entire thread, it looks like a scant few people have gotten their washers fixed by Sears — but still had to pay at least $120+ to do so. That is still wrong. Sears should just cover it, period.

    Sorry to say I won’t be shopping Frigidaire or Kenmore again. And I will tell everyone why. Goodbye, Sears.

  779. JamesJoyce Says:

    This “SCAM” is still being permitted. Bend over then, smile as you are being sodomized. Folks these manufacturers are ripping people off. Read the threads going back how many years? These products are designed to fail premature, to rip you the off! Plain and Simple!
    Corporate Sodomy!!!

  780. Woody Says:

    JamesJoyce: People bought these products based upon price, not quality. Grow up and be responsible for your own decisions and stop expecting the government or some consumer advocate agency to come running with a class action.

    You bought “value”. You paid $500 for something that lasted 5 years. If you had spent $1000 you would have gotten something that lasted 10-12 years. Some amount of money spent per year.

    There is also in the equation “customer use”. Many of these failures are causeed by improper use of deteregents.

    I am not a Frigidaire, Sears, Ge fan, but I do believe we have to be wise enough to ask “why does this cost less?”

    10 years from now everyone will be complaining about the junk they bought from Lowes and Homedepot that they got a “good deal” on.

    Good luck

  781. Doreen Says:

    I found out some very interesting news regarding Kenmore washer and dryer products….they are no longer being made by Frigidaire or Electrolux but by LG and/or Samsung. The product is much better and does allow the consumer to buy a good set without compromising both their dollar or the quality of machine.

    The only reason we found out this information is because we went to Sears and spoke to a sales person and we were shown the comparative machines of the companies who now make the Kenmore. Our new set should be here this week, hopefully, and then I can look forward to tackling Mount Laundry.

    James Joyce….it seems to me that you have some kind of odd liking for sodomy, as every post you’ve written on here has repeatedly said the same thing over and over again. Get over your sodomizing comments and move on with your life.

    The point of this forum is to share ideas and find out information as to how and why these machines possibly fail. I’m grateful to all who have shared their machine problems/issues as this gives everyone something to look into and decide on when it comes to either making the repair or purchasing a new set.

  782. saints23 Says:

    I have a 5 year old Kenmore front loader. It started getting really loud but I kept using it, now the drum id going around anymore. I called Sears repair last week and the soonest they could come was today. They never showed up in the 5 hour window that was scheduled so I called, they were never coming. Didn’t have a serviceman working today and never called all day to tell me. Does it sound like this can be repaired or do I need to start shopping?

  783. David F Says:

    To saints23
    Unless you can do the work yourself, or know someone who will do it for free, or nominal cost (case of beer), start shopping. Parts and labour will be very high cost particularly if the model number starts with 110 (indicates made by Whirlpool).

  784. hop2it Says:

    I don’t agree with this post at all. I do agree that the bearings in these units fail rather quickly—but mine ran 9 years who knows? I believe better engineering could have been done here and possibly(?) with the spider metal composition, however I’m not thoroughly convinced of the corrosion. I am the second owner of this unit manufactured in 3/2002; my family of four uses this thing about once a day on average. I only paid $225 for both the washer & dryer & this is the second set I have purchased for my family in another household. My washer model 417-42042100 started making loud, LOUD noises long before the screws (which are too long & pointed I agree) started scraping on the outer drum. The bearings should have been replaced in the unit in the video long before the screws started scraping. Once the scraping starts, the bearings are worn enough to cause a wobble which will cause anything to fail, especially a pot-metal formed spider. I didn’t see abnormal “corrosion” on my spider, the only problem I had was the inner bearing was rough/dry, not due to anything other than lack of lubrication, it had reached it’s life expectancy. The seal remained intact because I did not run the unit long after hearing noise increase. Part #’s for replacement of 2 bearings & a seal are 6306-2rsc3 & 6307-2rsc3 & seal (metric) 80x40x10 double lip, stainless spring. Parts only cost $50 at the local Industrial Bearing Supply Company. It took my son & I about 2-3 hrs to fix. I love this Kenmore machine & will continue to fix it. I wish more people would fix things instead of throwing them away… sad this disposable society we’re creating… so much waste. God Bless America!!!

  785. David F Says:

    I believe yours is the classic type of case where the domestic user will be unlikely to experience significant corrosion of the spider.
    This, I believe, is due to the fact that with regular use, such as you appear to be using, that does not allow the washer to ‘dry out’ sufficiently to allow any remaining ‘water’ to evaporate and increase its pH level to such an extent that corrosion occurs. I have said this in many ways, on many threads.
    One other point is that there are many folks ‘out there’ who believe that ‘all’ bearing failures are due to seal failure allowing water into the bearings thus causing them to fail. Yours is the first post, other than mine describing my sister–in–law’s bearing failure, that definitely states that the bearings failed before the seal. For that, thank you.

  786. burnedout Says:

    Our 18 mon old Kenmore washer stopped working last week, leaving a soggy mass of clothes. The service man said it was a burned out motor and burned out ‘timing mechanism’. Supposedly, the burning out of one could cause the burning out of the other. So with service charges, parts and labour we are out $600 – about the price of a new machine. The service guy was very non-committal about what could cause such an early death. This is the last Kenmore in this house.

  787. Woody Says:

    18 MONTHS ? SEARS “Satifaction Guaranteed or you money back”.

    Sound like you need to make a phone call. However was the tech a SEARS tech?. Because they are going to throw that in your face if it wasn’t.

  788. Tim E. Delicious Says:

    I too fell for the consumer reports review on the Kenmore front loader and purchased the washer and dryer back in 1999. Just recently I have experienced a thumping noise during the spin cycle.I believe (with beer in hand) I’ll be seeking relief from this infernal racket by replacing the bearing(s) in question. This will also give me an opportunity to inspect for wear to the spider arms and plastic drum in question. If this task takes any longer than 3 hours I may be the one sodomizing the washer. Advice anyone?

  789. David F Says:

    To Tim E. Delicious
    Foe a 1999 ‘Kenmore’ I am assuming that the model number starts with 417 or 970. Should this be correct you may find the following site informative.
    Two other pieces of advice.
    1. Should you renew the bearings DO NOT apply any pressure or tap the inner race when fitting them. This ‘bruises’ both races and the balls leading to premature failure.
    2. Should your spider have ‘failed’ and you are close to a Sears parts warehouse in Canada you can obtain a ‘tub kit’ comprising inner and outer tubs complete with pulley for less than the cost of the inner tub and spider. Should yo u be interested the details are elsewhere in this thread, or you can make another post here and I will give you update availability and costs.
    Good Luck even though the webpage I have quoted gives the job time as 3+ hours.
    Please let us know how you get on.

  790. David F Says:

    Sorry missed the information site from the above post. It is; -

  791. hop2it Says:

    I paid $200 for one and $225 for the other set of “complete” washer dryer in this stackable Kenmore front loading model (one was for my ma). In my opinion if anything more than the bearings are shot, look around for another good used washer-dryer. I just saw a set on craigslist here in Boise for $200 yesterday looks just like mine just a 2005 model.

  792. Eric Says:

    Sorry to report, were seeing grease on the clothes again, and therefore got 4 months out of last repair.

    So that’s to repairs within 12 months getting 3-4 months before stains begin to reappear.

    See my last posting on 9/20/2010 and also my posting last spring(March?) for more of my painful story.

    Time for a new washing machine and am considering the top loader, Maytag Bravos.


  793. Louis Says:

    I have a Kenmore HE3T Washer model Elite 45972 and was wondering if anyone else experienced where the water continues to flow into the washer even when it is off. This only happens only in a while. Sears said that noone else experienced this issue as far as they are concerned. Thanks

  794. Woody Says:

    Louis: Very common problem in any washing machine. If the water continues to come into the machine and the machine is unplugged (not just off) then replace the water inlet valve.

  795. Tim E. Delicious Says:

    David F, many thanks for the info and the link to the repair site. I searched the parts page and was unable to come up with info regarding ordering the shaft seal only. I’ll be sourcing bearings through my local Kaman dealer but would still like to replace the seal while I have the outer tub split. I’ll check it again but if you have any further resources regarding a rear seal it would be much appreciated. Got the outer tub split in about 2 hours, lot’s of fasteners and limited access but pretty straightforward. Thanks again.

  796. David F Says:

    To Tim E. Delicious
    I would strongly recommend that you renew the seal whilst the tubs are apart.
    Assuming that it is a 417 or a 970 the seal is usually 80x40x10DL (metric sizes) you may not be able to get one totally enclosed as the one I removed from my ‘417’ machine was but just put the spring side towards the bearings and you should be OK.
    The 80 is the outside diameter, the 40 is the inside diameter, the 10 is the thickness and DL= double lip. Any reputable seal supplier would, I think, be able to locate a suitable substitute. If I remember correctly mine cost under C$6.00 plus tax.
    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

  797. Jerry Lusk Says:

    I have the Whirlpool version “110″ and I would like to find the seal part number. Does anyone have it available/ Thank you

  798. David F Says:

    To Jerry Lusk
    You likely will not find the exact match. However there is a website mentioned in this thread: -
    by ‘Spencer’ on November 13, and previously, where bearings and seal are available and he appears satisfied. In my view any reputable seal supplier should be able to obtain a suitable substitute.
    Please let us know how you make out.

  799. Eric Says:

    I am selling my Kenmore model #417- for repair parts. All parts except the shaft bearings and seal are useable as repair parts or for reuse in another machine. The “Drum Assy, spin basket”, part 131618500, is only 4 months old and the spider arms are still like new.

    Please see my craigslist posting below if you are interested in any of these parts.


  800. Mr Joh Says:

    I had the corroded spider breakage 2 years ago.
    oh okay, like I can’t see a broken aluminum spider arm connected to a stainless steel tub.
    So I used my work database and called the CMO of Sears.
    The next day a new spider and tub arrived for FREE.
    It ONLY lasted 2 years. I wonder how/ why?


    Now I’m shopping different brands. GOODBYE SEARS.

  801. Tim E. Delicious Says:

    I found replacement bearings for my model 417 at a local Kaman dealer, installed them and reassembled the tub. Since I couldn’t source a replacement I did not change out the shaft seal. Nor did I replace the tub seal, although replacements are available. Both these parts were reused and no leaks were found during an intial test wash load. Only time will tell if this was an unwise choice. If I experience any bearing noise in the future it will be due to the shaft seal leaking. I’ll let you know how it goes and I’m shooting for 2 more years of service out of my washer. Any more would be a bonus. Thanks to David F.

  802. mahjong Says:

    It’s onerous to find knowledgeable individuals on this topic, but you sound like you already know what you’re talking about! Thanks

  803. Lana Says:

    i bought my Kenmore front load washer in 2004 for 1300d and it was just fine until February 1, 2011.It start to make noises very loud and from the tube coming lot of metallic particles.I been reading all reviews about same problem and thanks to that i didn’t even bather to think about repair. I just bought another sh…y product made by same company whirlpool,1000d for top load washer and dryer together.At least it is not to expensive to throw way after couple years.But no more product from Kenmore!!!!!

  804. Jeff Says:

    I had a Kenmore front loader that started making noise during the spin cycle. Read all about the spider issue and thought that it was just bad luck…granted the washer is…sorry was 9 years old but my mothers washers lasted 16 yrs. One day it stopped all together so I ripped it apart and sure enough the spider had corroded away resulting in outer drum enclosure damage etc. So we bought a new Top Loader I hated the front loader it was stating to smell as well.
    Now my brother in law said that his Whirlpool Duet was acting up noise etc. He took most of it apart and I helped with the rest…I said before you buy the front half of the drum enclosure lets see why it failed. Sure enough taking the drum out the spider is broken and deteriorated.
    I called Sears for mine and suggested that he do the same. I had three options split the cost of the repair, pay 100% of the cost and get a 1yr warranty or 20% off a new machine…I took the 20% off. Never again will I get a front loader unless they prove to me it has a stainless steel spider. If it did then the washer would still be running…I took what was good and sold the parts on eBay.

  805. Francois in Halifax Says:

    Thanks to you all, special thanks to this nice fellow who took the time to create this video showing us how great the design of our Kenmore front loaders is.

    Mine would have been 8 years old in July, changed the motor controler board and a few other parts 3 years ago for 143 bucks (parts were still under warranty for another 6 months at the time, I know, I got lucky) Whitout this, fixing it would have been just about the same as a new one.

    This time the spider assembly is gone. It is going to the curb tomorrow
    Again, thanks for making this decision easy… Great forum…

  806. David F Says:

    To Francois in Halifax

    May I very respectfully suggest that you let Sears know how satisfied you are by ‘voicing’ your comments at: -

    Thank you

  807. Hanzdownerpants Says:

    Oh Darn. I just spent about $100 tring to fix my same problem. First it looked easy, the shocks were broke, OK, buy 2 shocks and fix it.That didn’t work, so I replaced the belt with expedited shipping, still no luck. then I googled , the model number and problems, and BOOM here I am. So thankful I didnt spend any more. I guess Its time for a new washer. But what to buy?

  808. Alison Rogers Says:

    Sears is not a manufacturer, whirlpool makes Kenmore washers. I have a Whirlpool washer that just had the same problem. A repair man said I should buy a new washer. I read the manual for the washer and discovered that the parts for the drum are warrantied for 10 years so we called whirlpool. We didnt have our receipt but they knew exactly the date we purchased it, and told us to have an authorized dealer come and look at it. The whole drum unit is covered under warranty, we just have to pay for the labor. Maybe you should call the number in your guide instead of sears. Hope this was helpful

  809. Woody Says:

    Alison, your assumption that Whirlpool makes Kenmore washers is misleading. Yes, Whirlpool does manufacture SOME appliances branded Kenmore. But recently LG and Samsung have become their primary provider for high end laundry. If you read this thread closer you will also find that many of the Kenmore’s mentioned here are Frigidaire.

    Also, you need to tell us what this company is going to charge you to install these “free parts”. This is a major repair and the labor will be several hundred dollars when you include the trip charges and other fees.

  810. Kitty Carr Says:

    My nine year old Kenmore started leaking in spin cycle when it was four years old. I put a drip pan under it and it continued to work fine except that it got louder and louder with it finally had the “clunking” noise. I removed the back and found a black “powder/liquid” kind of substance splashed all around the inners at the back of the unit. The belt looks fine, but I don’t know what it was supposed to look like. It’s approximately 3/4″ wide now. I’m going to take the drum apart and I’m sure I will find the “spider” in pieces. I obviously have to purchase another washer, but it won’t be anything with a “spider” in it!
    Also, let’s all contact the CEO of Sears, and any other agencies concerning the problem that these people have known about for many years, but continue to sell to the public!

  811. Mervyn Shaw Says:

    They major reason for the corrosion of the aluminium spider is chlorine bleach. If you take a piece of aluminium and put a drop of Chlorox on it and leave it overnight, it will etch a white spot into it. After I return a repaired machine to a customer I recommend that they refrain from using any bleach that contains sodium hypochlorite.
    I also suggest that the customer test the drum for early signs of bearing failure. This can be done by putting one hand on the white outer tub and lifting the front edge of the stainless steel drum. If there is any up and down movement it is time to replace the bearings which only cost $12. If you continue using the machine the seal is damaged as well as the shaft of the washer drum and this can be very expensive.
    Many of the machines that I have repaired have a lot of hair wrapped around the rear shaft. This hair gets past the seal and seems to allow water to get in as well.
    Finally take a look at the door seal. If it is dirty and covered with black mold, take it off and put it into a 5 gallon bucket of 50% chlorox bleach and leave it there for and hour or two. Rinse it off and iood as new.

  812. David F Says:

    It is not just sodium hypochlorite that corrodes aluminium, it is any aqueous solution with a pH value above about 8.0 (alkaline) or below about 4.0 (acidic) [nitric acid is a well known exception] as I have explained earlier in this thread.

    As for the seals you may be interested in the information at the following site: -


  813. Curtis Says:

    Really enjoyed the experience of your site, even though it was saddened by the state of having a broken washer. I am a real do it yourselfer, and unemployed to boot, so I was ready to DIY for the lowest possible dollar and a new machine is OOTQ. I approached my thumping issue from the diagnostic angle, suspecting broken shock struts, and pulled the back off. They look worn out but not broken, so I ordered upgrades for 25 delivered. Then I found your site and read all the great stories about these machines. I finally called Sears and went thru the food chain til I got to a parts guy who knew the date I bought the machine oct 13 2001. I told him the stainless tub has a lifetime warantee in my manual and the spider mounting bracket broke, which has no part number, so I need a new tub assembly for free. He said true, but you need to have a Sears auth repairman install it. How much? He quoted a flat rate of 129 for the job. Sold. I’ll order the bearings and seal from the net (got the numbers from your site) and have them here when dude arrives in a week with my new drum.

    About the hate-
    Yes it was not the most expensive, but my machine does say heavy duty on the front. I have well water and I got 10 yrs medium light use from it. Junk? Not totally. Made to break? Duh. It didn’t ruin my life. For $160 I’ll have a refurbished machine for another 10 yrs, and I didn’t have to do anything beyond taking the back off. Y’all should check THE OWNERS MANUAL. I doubt Mercedes Benz would put in a new crankshaft after 10 yrs, so I guess this is