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Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch (3949247)

This Whirlpool lid switch is very commonly used in Whirlpool made washers. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It’s a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning. Checking the lid switch for continuity would tell you if it’s bad. You could do that by using an ohmmeter. If it shows no ohms, you most likely need a new lid switch.

wpl washer lid switch

This lid switch fits some Whirlpool, Estate, Roper, and Kenmore washers. Made by Whirlpool. Part Number: 3949247.

29 Comments For This Post

  1. Ronald Maddox Says:

    “Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch (3949247)” on Whirlpool Washer Ultimate Care II model LSQ8543JQ1. Can anyone tell me how to install this part? I thought I could lift the top part that contains the lid, but there was a screw in each of the two front corners that I could not get access to.

  2. appliancejournal Says:

    Post your question on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ and someone will help.

  3. Lila Says:

    It will soon be a year since we replaced this part. It was somewhat hard to install. But part of it was due to small space in my laundry room. I paid such a tiny price, it was well worth the effort.

  4. Ryan Says:

    Same thing just happened tonight. at first i thought it was the timer (wouldn’t drain or spin) but upon closer inspection and following troubleshooting guides online, i poked at the switch with a pen and it just fell down onto the rim of the tub…we’ve still got a tub of water and laundry so i can’t wait for it in the mail…going to sears and paying 30+ dollars for a switch.

  5. Kevin M Says:

    Can this part fail partially??? If I walk over and push down on the lid, the switch will make contact and the cycle will start back up. The plunger is fine and the lid is not warped. I have removed the switch several times and it seems that the ‘lever’ part of the switch must be pushed down almost ALL the way to make contact. I’ve tried adding things to the lever surface where the plunger makes contact, but it is an intermittent fix at best. I plan on buying a switch and replacing it, but I wonder if someone can foresee another problem that I have not. thanks!!!

  6. Brent Says:

    Temporary Fix = I had the same problem with the plastic switch screws breaking out. The switch was just hanging loosely under the TOP plate, preventing the lid from coming down and closing the switch, so no water drained and no spin cycle. I noticed There is a little extra length of wire so you can pull the end of the switch out to view it, it won’t hurt anything, you’ll notice it will just spring back into place when you let it go. So I gently pull the switch into view again, and When I closed the switch together between my thumb and index finger, the washing machine starts to drain, and the spin cycle begins!!!!!! HMMMMM.. So I held it together while the washer drains and then a few minutes more while the spin cycle is completed. NICE! Now I decide to Duct Tape the Switch together in the closed position, so I can still do laundry, while I wait a few days for the part I just ordered to arrive. I am not very mechanical, but I’ll download an instructional video, when the part gets here. In the meantime, my wife knows to keep her hands out the machine while its running, and the wash still gets done! Hope this temporary fix helps you out!

  7. Joshua Says:

    I have the same deal as Kevin M… push down on the lid and it starts. My temp fix was to add length to the plunger using tape. I guess I should just get a new switch…

  8. wen Says:

    just cut the 2 grey wires to the switch and tape them together

  9. appliancejournal Says:

    Never a good idea to bypass a switch or a fuse. There is a good reason for having it.

  10. Terry Says:

    Yeah, the government mandated it….aren’t we lucky they’re looking out for our safety.

  11. Mel Says:

    On our machine, the underside of the lid is rusting so badly that the “L-shaped” lid holders are no longer aligning with the holes. The plastic washer holding the L-shaped lid (hinges) is no longer in the holes. Why can’t you just duct tape the switch into place (because the “Ls” are not pushing the switch down far enough unless pressure is applied to lid). We are not likely to try to open the lid until it’s done spinning. Will this damage any electronic components if we do that!?

  12. andy fike Says:

    wen (above) has it right, cut and splice. you can use a terminal switch (about a buck at an electronic store) to reattach the 2 gray spliced wires via the terminal switch back to the lid switch you just removed (the 2 screws that hold the lid switch/ its more professional having secured your splice). note: the washer will still spin when lid is open so dont put your hand inside when its spinning (duhh)… if you just want to do it raggedly, forget the terminal switch and use a wire nut and secure somewhere else.:)

  13. MP Says:

    Tks Wen! That is exactly what I needed to know. Took all of 10min and saved me a good 90 dollars on having a repairman come out. Skill level about a 1 out of 5. Thanks again.

  14. Elizabeth Edge Says:

    My washer goes through the wash cycle but when it’s time to pump the water out to start the rinse cycle, it just sits there and clicks. What could that be? Thanks.

  15. Molly Says:

    Where is the lid switch on a top loader 2005 Whirlpool washing machine? I lost my manuel due to a Hurricane.

  16. Molly Says:

    My Whirlpool washing machine does everything but spins and some woman at the laundramat suggested the lid switch may be bad, but not having a manuel, I can’t locate it. =(

  17. DanO Says:

    The switch on my washer stopped working as well. I removed the two screws visible just under the washer lid and slid the switch into view. I noticed the switch pieces had separated. I pushed it back together and found it wouldn’t stay together, so I temporarily taped it back together in two directions and reinstalled it. It’s working fine now, but will replace soon.

  18. Marcos Says:

    hola a todos, para los que deseen ubicar el interruptor de tapa simplemente vean que con la tapa levantada que esta presenta una parte de plastico que sobresale de su superficie por lo que al cerrar presiona el interruptor que esta en la ranura superior del cuerpo de la lavadora, para una reparacion de emergencia simplemente desmonten parcialmente la tapa posterior superior de la lavadora donde estan los controles y localize un conector de tres conductores que en muchas whirlpool son colores gris, enmedio verde (tierra fisica) y blanco, una los cables gris y blanco y aisle cuidadosamente y listo pero lo mas pronto posible busque el interruptor adecuado para que su lavadora quede con las protecciones completas, dicho interruptor evita que la tina gire con la tapa destapada.
    Saludos

  19. patty Says:

    thank you soooooooooooooo much. i too, had the same problem with the washer not rinsing or spinning. i would press on the top and it would work, however, i had to hold the pressure with a 25lb weight. after about two loads doing this, it did not work anymore. upon reading the advice above, i cut the two grey wires, spliced them, wrapped them together… and it worked! anyone can do this because i didn’t even use duct tape or the plastice thing that wraps around the wire… i couldn’t find one around my garage “stuff.” i used a plastic thing that goes into the wall to keep screws in… man! i am going to buy duct tape today and a plastic thing… whatever it’s called. i will look into buying a new switch as well. thank you again.

  20. Deborah Says:

    Cutting the wires & wire-nutting them together worked to get the water out of the tub but I don’t see how to attach a new switch. How does the top cover lift to expose where it’s attached.

  21. Rob Says:

    this was very helpful, especially Brent’s temporary fix. My switch housing is all plastic and the two sides clamshell, held in place by little nibs that engage corresponding brackets. One of those nibs broke so when my washer lid pushed down on the actuator lever, the two sides of the plastic housing were separating preventing the actuator from engaging properly. I put safety wire round the plastic housing and now it is a rigid little structure again and working fine.

  22. Katie Says:

    You should also watch this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU. My machine would not spin or drain, the hose was not clogged, and I was about to remove the old lid switch and head to Sears. Turns out, after watching the video, and removing the control panel upper on washing machine, that the plug for the wire running to the lid switch had come loose. Plugged it back in, and the problem was solved. The video was a huge help!

  23. Allen Says:

    I just had a repairman quote me $45 for this exact switch, and $35 to install it. Go to youtube and see videos on washer machine switch repair. Very easy if you are the least bit handy. Not worth $100 to have it repaired.

    Or, remove screws that it is mounted by, use a wrap a rubber band around it to hold the switch in the closed position. Works like a charm.

  24. terry markham Says:

    how do i get the lid up on washer to install switch

  25. Michael Lucas Says:

    ###########SAFTY FIRST####### UNPLUG WASHER BEFORE ATEMPTING THIS######

    I had the same prob and was late at night and had to get the work clothes washed so if your slightly handy just remove the two srews inside the rim that holds the switch and then cut the wires just outside the switch. and then cut the plastic off the wire to expose the copper, and there are two methoed of doing this. #1 just a plain wire nut and hook both wires you just cut open. or #2 use a wire splice (butt splice) or if your feeling a little redneckess you can twist the two wires together and use electrical tape BUT I DONT RECOMMENED THIS. LAST RESORT>>>>>but all stated above is only a temp fix till you get the new switch…hope this helps

  26. KLF Says:

    Having a similar problem with lid switch. In our case the plunger-to-switch contact has continuously degraded over the course of a year or so and “temporarily” corrected by either building up the plunger with tape or applying external weight to the lid over the switch location in order to engage.

    However even these measures are not working now, but I can still get intermittent connection (by wiggling a half clothes-pin into the plunger opening to engage the switch). I can hear the “click” and about 1 in 10 attempts causes the motor to engage for a half-second but then cuts out.

    My question is: Would this still be a faulty switch or perhaps more to do with worn brushes on the motor.

    Thanks in advance and for the YouTube post above describing the switch replacement sequence. Very helpful.

  27. Mark Says:

    I noticed that one of the screws on the lid was missing. This makes the lid loose and when I press down on the lid the tub drains. Unfortunately, I loosened the screws that hold the lid switch in. Is there an adjustment that can be done to get the switch in proper alignment?

  28. Amanda Says:

    I am the same problems with my whirlpool washer but it has three wires going to the switch ( grey, green, and white) and then a a gray ground wire. Would like to bypass the switch but don’t know which wires to do it with. this washer dosent have the regular switch like most washers. It has a metal bar on the lid that activates the switch in the back leftside of the washer. Any help greatly appreciated.

  29. elizabeth Says:

    I took mine off and it fell into the nether regions of the washer. I tried looking under there to see if it fell all the way down, but can’t see it. any advice?
    thanks!

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