Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch (3949247)
Thu, Dec 7, 2006
This Whirlpool lid switch is very commonly used in Whirlpool made washers. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It’s a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning. Checking the lid switch for continuity would tell you if it’s bad. You could do that by using an ohmmeter. If it shows no ohms, you most likely need a new lid switch.
This lid switch fits some Whirlpool, Estate, Roper, and Kenmore washers. Made by Whirlpool. Part Number: 3949247.
Popularity: 7% [?]
December 10th, 2007 at 2:56 am
“Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch (3949247)” on Whirlpool Washer Ultimate Care II model LSQ8543JQ1. Can anyone tell me how to install this part? I thought I could lift the top part that contains the lid, but there was a screw in each of the two front corners that I could not get access to.
December 10th, 2007 at 10:02 am
Post your question on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ and someone will help.
August 23rd, 2008 at 3:47 am
It will soon be a year since we replaced this part. It was somewhat hard to install. But part of it was due to small space in my laundry room. I paid such a tiny price, it was well worth the effort.
September 8th, 2008 at 7:11 am
Same thing just happened tonight. at first i thought it was the timer (wouldn’t drain or spin) but upon closer inspection and following troubleshooting guides online, i poked at the switch with a pen and it just fell down onto the rim of the tub…we’ve still got a tub of water and laundry so i can’t wait for it in the mail…going to sears and paying 30+ dollars for a switch.
October 23rd, 2008 at 3:42 am
Can this part fail partially??? If I walk over and push down on the lid, the switch will make contact and the cycle will start back up. The plunger is fine and the lid is not warped. I have removed the switch several times and it seems that the ‘lever’ part of the switch must be pushed down almost ALL the way to make contact. I’ve tried adding things to the lever surface where the plunger makes contact, but it is an intermittent fix at best. I plan on buying a switch and replacing it, but I wonder if someone can foresee another problem that I have not. thanks!!!
November 12th, 2008 at 5:39 am
Temporary Fix = I had the same problem with the plastic switch screws breaking out. The switch was just hanging loosely under the TOP plate, preventing the lid from coming down and closing the switch, so no water drained and no spin cycle. I noticed There is a little extra length of wire so you can pull the end of the switch out to view it, it won’t hurt anything, you’ll notice it will just spring back into place when you let it go. So I gently pull the switch into view again, and When I closed the switch together between my thumb and index finger, the washing machine starts to drain, and the spin cycle begins!!!!!! HMMMMM.. So I held it together while the washer drains and then a few minutes more while the spin cycle is completed. NICE! Now I decide to Duct Tape the Switch together in the closed position, so I can still do laundry, while I wait a few days for the part I just ordered to arrive. I am not very mechanical, but I’ll download an instructional video, when the part gets here. In the meantime, my wife knows to keep her hands out the machine while its running, and the wash still gets done! Hope this temporary fix helps you out!
November 13th, 2008 at 1:37 pm
I have the same deal as Kevin M… push down on the lid and it starts. My temp fix was to add length to the plunger using tape. I guess I should just get a new switch…
May 2nd, 2009 at 9:23 pm
just cut the 2 grey wires to the switch and tape them together
May 2nd, 2009 at 11:56 pm
Never a good idea to bypass a switch or a fuse. There is a good reason for having it.
August 10th, 2009 at 4:37 am
Yeah, the government mandated it….aren’t we lucky they’re looking out for our safety.
September 4th, 2009 at 4:30 pm
On our machine, the underside of the lid is rusting so badly that the “L-shaped” lid holders are no longer aligning with the holes. The plastic washer holding the L-shaped lid (hinges) is no longer in the holes. Why can’t you just duct tape the switch into place (because the “Ls” are not pushing the switch down far enough unless pressure is applied to lid). We are not likely to try to open the lid until it’s done spinning. Will this damage any electronic components if we do that!?
September 22nd, 2009 at 7:23 pm
wen (above) has it right, cut and splice. you can use a terminal switch (about a buck at an electronic store) to reattach the 2 gray spliced wires via the terminal switch back to the lid switch you just removed (the 2 screws that hold the lid switch/ its more professional having secured your splice). note: the washer will still spin when lid is open so dont put your hand inside when its spinning (duhh)… if you just want to do it raggedly, forget the terminal switch and use a wire nut and secure somewhere else.:)
November 6th, 2009 at 10:44 pm
Tks Wen! That is exactly what I needed to know. Took all of 10min and saved me a good 90 dollars on having a repairman come out. Skill level about a 1 out of 5. Thanks again.
November 23rd, 2009 at 5:24 pm
My washer goes through the wash cycle but when it’s time to pump the water out to start the rinse cycle, it just sits there and clicks. What could that be? Thanks.
December 11th, 2009 at 10:56 pm
Where is the lid switch on a top loader 2005 Whirlpool washing machine? I lost my manuel due to a Hurricane.
December 11th, 2009 at 11:01 pm
My Whirlpool washing machine does everything but spins and some woman at the laundramat suggested the lid switch may be bad, but not having a manuel, I can’t locate it. =(
December 19th, 2009 at 6:53 am
The switch on my washer stopped working as well. I removed the two screws visible just under the washer lid and slid the switch into view. I noticed the switch pieces had separated. I pushed it back together and found it wouldn’t stay together, so I temporarily taped it back together in two directions and reinstalled it. It’s working fine now, but will replace soon.
January 26th, 2010 at 5:01 am
hola a todos, para los que deseen ubicar el interruptor de tapa simplemente vean que con la tapa levantada que esta presenta una parte de plastico que sobresale de su superficie por lo que al cerrar presiona el interruptor que esta en la ranura superior del cuerpo de la lavadora, para una reparacion de emergencia simplemente desmonten parcialmente la tapa posterior superior de la lavadora donde estan los controles y localize un conector de tres conductores que en muchas whirlpool son colores gris, enmedio verde (tierra fisica) y blanco, una los cables gris y blanco y aisle cuidadosamente y listo pero lo mas pronto posible busque el interruptor adecuado para que su lavadora quede con las protecciones completas, dicho interruptor evita que la tina gire con la tapa destapada.
Saludos
February 7th, 2010 at 10:58 pm
thank you soooooooooooooo much. i too, had the same problem with the washer not rinsing or spinning. i would press on the top and it would work, however, i had to hold the pressure with a 25lb weight. after about two loads doing this, it did not work anymore. upon reading the advice above, i cut the two grey wires, spliced them, wrapped them together… and it worked! anyone can do this because i didn’t even use duct tape or the plastice thing that wraps around the wire… i couldn’t find one around my garage “stuff.” i used a plastic thing that goes into the wall to keep screws in… man! i am going to buy duct tape today and a plastic thing… whatever it’s called. i will look into buying a new switch as well. thank you again.
February 27th, 2010 at 9:45 pm
Cutting the wires & wire-nutting them together worked to get the water out of the tub but I don’t see how to attach a new switch. How does the top cover lift to expose where it’s attached.
Repair Question? Post it in the Forum
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