Bosch Dishwasher Control Module (266746)
Fri, Dec 8, 2006
This is the most commonly used Bosch control module. There have been a few changes made but it will still work on the older dishwasher models (see list below for all of the models this control module will work on). Some of the indicator lights might have a plastic covering over them. If so, you just have to remove it.
This control module will fit most Bosch dishwashers. Made by Bosch. Part Number: 266746.
The following model numbers use this control module:
- GM915-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
- GM915-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
- GM915-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- GM926-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
- GM926-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
- GM926-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHI4302 UC/06 -FD8002
- SHI4302 UC/11 -FD8003
- SHI4302 UC/12
- SHI4306 UC/06 -FD8002
- SHI4306 UC/11 -FD8003
- SHI4306 UC/12
- SHI6802 UC/06
- SHI6802 UC/11
- SHI6802 UC/12
- SHI6805 UC/06
- SHI6805 UC/11
- SHI6805 UC/12
- SHI6806 UC/06
- SHI6806 UC/11
- SHI6806 UC/12
- SHU4302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU4302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU4306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4312 UC/06 (FD 7701-7912)
- SHU4312 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4312 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4316 UC/06
- SHU4316 UC/11
- SHU4316 UC/12
- SHU5302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5304 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5304 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5304 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5305 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5305 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5305 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5307 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5312 GB/08
- SHU5312 UC/06
- SHU5312 UC/11
- SHU5312 UC/12
- SHU5314 UC/06
- SHU5314 UC/11
- SHU5314 UC/12
- SHU5315 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5315 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5315 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5316 GB/08
- SHU5316 UC/06
- SHU5316 UC/11
- SHU5316 UC/12
- SHU5317 UC/12
- SHU6802 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6802 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6802 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU6805 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6805 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6805 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU6806 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6806 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6806 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
Popularity: 13% [?]
February 13th, 2007 at 8:56 pm
I have a Bosch Dishwasher model SHU5314 UC/06 and the timer does not count down as usual. It stays at a very high minute count and I notice that the water temperature is not getting hot as it did before. I’m wondering if the probklem is a defective control module or heater assembly or thermistor.
February 13th, 2007 at 8:57 pm
Any help is appreciated.
February 15th, 2007 at 8:08 pm
Hi Tom,
This is a somewhat common problem with Bosch dishwashers (not that a Bosch dishwasher is not reliable, it’s probably one of the better ones out there). Usually, the timer would get stuck on 2 minutes, but really it could get stuck on any point. The cause of the problem is usually this module, which you can order through the link above. Replacing the module is pretty easy, make sure to disconnect the power to the dishwasher first (unplug it).
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for stopping by.
admin
ApplianceJournal
April 27th, 2007 at 6:44 pm
I have a 4300 model 4306uc/u06 it is the same board w/0 led numbers will this work?
April 28th, 2007 at 1:29 am
Yes, this Bosch dishwasher board is good for the 4306 uc 06 model as well.
May 13th, 2007 at 1:39 pm
Have a 5305 dishwasher we only use about twice a week (only 2 of us in the house) and the second control module in now going bad after 7 1/2 years.
Piece of junk, at least the module is.
May 24th, 2007 at 2:43 am
Having trouble with the dishwasher.
Water is not coming in @ all.
I check the water line and it seem to be fine.
SO is the control module ( ran test).
does this mean water valve is bad?
where can i refer for internal assembly pictures…?
any help is appreciated.
May 24th, 2007 at 7:12 am
Raj, you can view internal components (diagrams and photos) by entering your dishwasher model number at the top of this page (under Find Appliance Parts), or post your model number here and I’ll get you a direct link.
What happens when you turn the dishwasher on? Any sound at all from the motor or anything else?
You always want to start from the basics, so if you haven’t already, make sure the dishwasher water shut off valve under the sink is open and functioning properly.
Post back as much details as you can and we’ll try to help.
June 11th, 2007 at 11:12 pm
Hi, I have a bosch SHU5302UC and the thing is stuck on 2H. I have to time our loads for 45 minutes and then clear it out so I can hit the rinse and hold button to get them clean. I called Bosch and they told me if its 2H that there something wrong and I should call a service person. Duh, that’s why I called them. They were no help whatsoever. So I’m hoping you can help. Is this also the control module as my water/dishes don’t seem to be screaming hot like they use to be. Help!
June 12th, 2007 at 12:56 am
Hi Sandy, welcome!
Bosch customer support will probably never tell you exactly what’s causing a problem with your Bosch appliance. Has to do with legal issues, plus they probably want to make a few bucks off the service call.
Well, in this capacity we are certainly not like Bosch customer support
Yes, I’m pretty certain that the cause of the problem is a faulty control module and the one at the top of the page is the right one for your model. You can get it from AppliancePartsPros by clicking on the module photo. I think they have it on sale.
If you need help with replacement, post another comment and we’ll provide instructions.
Thanks for visiting,
AJ
June 24th, 2007 at 8:20 pm
my bosch SHU 6805UC/U12 is doing the same thing.. hanging at 1 and not finishing. I do a manual clear. I am about to start the testing but is there a place to get directions on how to remove the module ? I have learned it is quicker to ask than repair:) thanks
Jim
June 25th, 2007 at 5:22 am
Jim,
What kind of testing were you planning on doing? What you are describing sounds very much like the faulty module problem.
Get the module from AppliancePartsPros using the link above. Their prices are better and you should get your module within a day or two.
As far as how to replace the old module… We’re working on a post that will have complete step by step instructions that will tell you how to remove the old module and replace it with the new one. I will leave a comment here on this page as soon as that post is ready. Should be just a couple of days.
AJ
June 29th, 2007 at 1:10 am
Me again, I have the Bosch SHU5302UC & the darn thing was hanging up on the 1 & also not heating. Well we ordered the ctrl module that AJ recommended. We looked at doing the work ourself but when we saw the installation would be a little tricky we ended up calling a Bosch service repair dude. He put it in & said we should be set. Works great and it only cost $75 for the installation - yeah!!! So under $200 and we’re good to go. Thanks so much for your help AJ.
June 29th, 2007 at 11:18 pm
That’s great, Sandy
Thank you for keeping us updated.
AJ
July 27th, 2007 at 4:35 am
I tried to install the 266746 control panel with a replacement, but could not figure out how to get the old one out. There must be a simple solution, but I spent an hour or more trying to figure this out, ultimately closing it back up with the old one still intact. Any step by step instructions available? Thanks!
August 15th, 2007 at 1:42 am
I just ordered this control board from you because ours is on the fritz, again. We’ve soldered one, gotten one used on ebay and bought a whole used dishwasher (only $100!) just to keep ours running, and every time it has been the control board. So my question is, if Bosch has indeed redesigned the cover and indicator lights, as stated on the AppliancePartsPros site, have they also toughened up the board so that it doesn’t fail so often? I mean, gee whiz, this problem has been going on for years. Is it that expensive to redesign a basic control board?
Sign me “tired of three-hour wash cycles”
August 27th, 2007 at 1:30 am
We got the new control board and found out that it HAS been re-engineered in several ways. With help from my son, an electrical engineering student, we learned that the board was redesigned for surface-mount components and that the two relays that have been the source of many problems (this is where the contacts melt) have been upgraded to a rating of 10 amps, rather than the 5 amps on the old board. My son says the company wouldn’t put in a bigger and more expensive component unless it was addressing a problem, so let’s hope this does the trick.
We popped it in and have run the machine three times since then, always with the cycle running at the proper length, about 70 minutes for the delicate/economy cycle that we use.
If this board lasts for the next 10 years or so then we’ll consider buying another Bosch, as we’ve always been impressed with how well it cleans and how quiet it is. But if the board fails, we’ll have to find someone else for our next dishwasher.
August 30th, 2007 at 6:41 pm
Thanks for the update, Patrick! Let’s hope it doesn’t fail for a long time.
Don’t forget about the warranty on the replacement board. If it fails within the first year, contact AppliancePartsPros.com and they’ll send you a replacement free of charge.
September 17th, 2007 at 2:54 pm
Any progress on the post re: how to replace a control unit? I’m trying to figure out if I want to attempt this or just call the service guys for a Bosch 6805 with what looks like a 2nd faulty control unit in 6 years.
September 17th, 2007 at 3:15 pm
Glenn, it isn’t very difficult to replace a control unit if you have basic mechanical skills. I’ve removed and replaced those control boards four times now. You need a torx driver to take the front door panel off (including some screws on the side), then you unhook all the wiring from the module (it fits only one way, so if you get the wires mixed up, just keep trying until you get them in the right slots). The module comes out by pushing on various plastic clips, and the new one pops right in. If there is a little jumper on the old board and not on your new one, move it over to the new board in the same position. Replace all the wires (including the green ground wire), put the door panel back on (making sure to position the white plastic wedges at the bottom just right, so that it holds in position), lightly screw in a few of the screws, make sure everything is lining up, and then tighten everything up.
Our new control board continues to work fine after a few weeks in the machine. Dishes are clean and cycle times are back to normal.
September 23rd, 2007 at 3:44 am
I’d like to second Patrick’s comments: I’m not exactly a skilled service tech, but I was able to get the door taken apart (it _is_ annoying, but persistence and care will see you through) and the control module removed, resoldered, and reinstalled without destroying the machine or injuring myself :-).
Can’t tell yet if the repair will hold.
October 1st, 2007 at 9:04 pm
How do I know if it is the control module?
October 2nd, 2007 at 5:52 pm
Describe the problem, Dave.
October 2nd, 2007 at 9:50 pm
Well I chickened out and had the Bosch repair guy come and replace the control unit. It was about $80 above the cost of the board and saved me a day. This was my 2nd control module replacement in a 6 year old machine. Thanks to Dave and Patrick for responding.
October 3rd, 2007 at 11:44 pm
This is Dave “Can’t tell if the repair will hold”: It did. The re-soldered control board is doing the job nicely.
A hint for those of you who want to solder the damaged connector rather than buy a new one: take a small knife and gently scrape away from the solder point, removing some of the insulation from the circuit board, and revealing more of the copper traces to take the solder.
I’m sure that helped my fix survive its first week, anyway.
October 17th, 2007 at 10:48 pm
I ordered the control module but it arrived with a broken plastic spring so I am reassembling the dishwasher but I cannot figure out were the plastic wedges go. They just “fell out” when I removed the face panel. Any tips?
October 17th, 2007 at 10:57 pm
If you mean the white wedges that are about an inch or two wide and have a slot in the middle, that slot will fit on the rail on each side of the door frame, just up from the bottom. You push the front panel against and around the wedges to line everything up; you’ll know you have it right if the screw holes line up. Does that make sense for your situation?
October 18th, 2007 at 12:04 am
Thanks for the quick tip. I will check on that in a bit. I don’t see a hole for a screw in the wedge but the rest of your description fits. I thought that they had come off the bottom.
DeWayne
October 18th, 2007 at 1:51 am
That’s correct, there is no hole in the wedge for a screw, you just push it into place. The screws I was referring to are the ones that hold the door front panel to the door assembly. Once you have your wedges in place (at the bottom, as you remember) and push the panel onto them, all the screw holes should line up between the panel and the door itself. Good luck.
October 18th, 2007 at 4:22 pm
Got it ad got the panels back on. What a hassle. It was not easy (at least for me!) to get the panel and the control cover (not sure what to call it) back on by myself. Good news I get o do it all again when the replacement part gets here. Thanks for all your advice.
DeWayne
December 6th, 2007 at 11:29 pm
I have a Bosch SHU6802 Dishwaher.
I have just installed my new control board and I’m not getting any water in the dishwasher at all when I turn it on. The water in on under the sink and the motor is running. I removed the water line and the brass fitting and it seems to be clear. I did have a problem with the kitchen faucet when I turned the water on there was debris in the line that slowed the water to the faucet. I need to know if the problem could be the that the control board needs to be reset or something. I need help
December 6th, 2007 at 11:33 pm
Continued Bosch SHU6802
I did a test on the control board and the first test was a “20″ the second time for the test a “4″
Any idea?
December 10th, 2007 at 5:44 pm
Steve, please post the problem on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ and one of the techs will help.
February 10th, 2008 at 1:41 am
I have a 10 year old Bosch SHU5315 which has had the original control module soldered for the 3rd time. Repair seems to last about 2 months. Hoping this is the last time, I scraped all the burnt gunk away from the relay pin–exposing some of the copper pcb and resoldered/also added a small piece of copper wire to act as a heatsink to the solder joint. My only concern is the new module board looks quite different from my old one and hope it works correctly should this repair fail again. Does anyone have a new one installed thats been in and working for a long time?
February 12th, 2008 at 3:48 am
I replaced mine back in October, it has worked fine ever since.
February 12th, 2008 at 2:12 pm
And I replaced ours in August 2007 with the redesigned board (10 amp relays, see Aug. 27 post above) and it has been working fine, with 70-minute economy cycles at least once per day. I’m satisfied . . . so far.
February 15th, 2008 at 3:19 am
I have a Bosch SMU4056UC/14. After raeding what others ahd to say, it looks like my contol module is also gone bad. I have had problems with my timing, as well as the machine not heating up. Will the new control modules work on my machine? Where can I find a control module and is it difficult to install in my type of machine?
February 15th, 2008 at 3:29 am
David, SMU4056UC14 does not have a module, instead it uses a timer and a selector switch. You can view breakdown diagrams and parts list, as well as order any part if needed, here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=195410&&model_id=232505.
If you have a technical question, try the appliance repair forum: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
Hope this helps.
February 15th, 2008 at 3:46 am
Thanks for the information. since the washer has a timer and a selector switch and not a control module, what wopuld cause it to not heat and the timing be screwed up? Is it a ahrd fix or should I be shopping for a new dishwasher? Thanks.
February 19th, 2008 at 6:53 am
Sounds like maybe the selector switch is bad.
If you have an ohmmeter, try this:
Select any cycle other than “Rinse & Hold” and check for continuity across terminals 1 and 3 on the selector switch. Replace the selector switch if it’s open (no continuity).
- How to check components for continuity http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
- Replacement selector switch for SMU4056UC14 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802789
February 23rd, 2008 at 12:55 am
Great site and help, thanks.
I have an SHU5306 with the “2h” problem. Open the control box and indeed found one solder connection burned out that I will resolder with the help of a friend who’s expert in that.
My concern is that there is an underlying cause and that it will just burn out again. Or that if I buy a new control module it will burn out as well because of whatever the underlying cause is.
Any suggestions as to how to allay that concern?
February 23rd, 2008 at 1:44 am
Our experience was that the board would burn again, but in one case it lasted about a year before failing again. And we had a new board fail, too, because it was the same as the old one, but as I reported here on Aug 27, 2007, Bosch finally did a revision of the board and replaced the relay that was overheating with a beefier 10 amp unit, rather than 5 amp.
I don’t know if that completely solves the problem, but ours is still working fine, and let me tell you, I quickly forgot about the $150 or whatever I spent for new module. It started working properly as soon as I installed it, and that was a great relief after getting myself worked up every night for months cancelling out the cycles to get the dishwasher to finish cleaning the dishes.
So you could try soldering it, since you have that option, then replace it if you need to later, with a certain amount of confidence that it will work. Or just replace it now and forget about it.
February 25th, 2008 at 2:34 pm
Patrick, thx for the encouragement.
Resoldered the connection Saturday morning and everything is working fine so far. The 2h code disappeared after the full cycle ran successfully once.
Here’s hoping it holds. I note with some curiosity that they upgraded to a 10A relay on a circuit that according to their own repair instructions draws 11 amps! Perhaps still undersized?
March 16th, 2008 at 6:23 pm
I’ve had this same problem a few times with my SHU5312. I think the board has been replaces two or maybe three times.
Is there a diagram to show which wires go to the heater unit? The solder joints all look fine on the board, so what would be helpful to know which wires go to the heater so I can can check with an ohm meter and also watch to see if the relay ever turns on.
The dishwasher is about ten years old and we use it about 3 or 4 times a week — normal household usage. So I’m wondering what if it’s time to start looking at new units.
March 16th, 2008 at 6:46 pm
I couldn’t find a diagram, but it was pretty clear to me which wires were connected to the high current edge-of-board connector. I presumed that they were the ones carrying the heater current. It didn’t hurt that they were also in the region of the 10A relay. I remember the connector was just about the middle of the long side.
Then it was clear in my case on visual inspection that one of the wires solder joint had failed.
Good luck.
March 17th, 2008 at 11:24 pm
Here’s a few photos — photo of the board isn’t great, but maybe you can see the heater wires on the controller photo. These are all at hank dot org slash bosch_board.jpg and bosch_connections.jpg. (The board filtered the full urls when I posted yesterday).
March 18th, 2008 at 1:46 am
In my case, the one that had burned out was the bottom-most of the three that are all connected and below the “GV” in GV630
March 21st, 2008 at 9:22 am
Hi steve here, i have a Bosch SGV4313GB/17 and for sometime it has not been taking in water, goes through all the motions when i feed it with water from the tap/jug.
Water is on because all i hear is the water clicking on and off, but not going through the system to wash. Would this be the regulator/level sensor or a blockage …. our water in our area is hard.
I have looked at the exploded diagrams on the Bosch website and am quite mechanically minded.
hope you can help regards
steve
March 27th, 2008 at 7:52 am
Steve, post your question on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com and one of the experts will help.
April 15th, 2008 at 9:00 pm
I have a problem with my Bosch DW SHX57c. It doesn’t work any more.
Here is example:
Timer with Quick Wash selected starts from somewhat 70min and counts down without any sign of DW live. Nothing happens during this “cycle”. Before, Quick wash started at 37min and DW worked pretty loud.
If I push “cancel” combination, drain cycle starts.
could anybody help?
thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
May 20th, 2008 at 4:07 pm
We have model SHU 5315 with the same problem many have described — cycle taking hours (turned it off after four hours and it still said it hd 42 minutes left).
Since this seems to be such a common problem, why doesn’t Bosch offer to fix all of them? It seems a company like Bosch would do a recall and send technicians out to replace the board on all of the defective units.
I don’t feel like I should spend $200 or more to fix a dishwasher that is only three years old. (It has only been used daily since we moved into the house two years ago.) Bosch will pay for the circuit board, but the fee for the repair guy to simply walk into my kitchen is $90. That doesn’t include the fee to take out the circuit board and replace it. Yes, we could do it ourselves, but should we all have to fix expensive dishwashers with what seems to be a defect in the board?
Is there a way to get Bosch to cover this expense?
May 20th, 2008 at 5:16 pm
My dishwasher is almost 10 years old, so it’s understandable that Bosch would not pay for the replacement part. And I did ask for them to do that.
Bosch did pay for replacement of the board a few times before — even a year or two after the warranty expired, so I have to give them credit for that.
That said, this seems to be a rather large defect that I suspect that Bosh wish would just go away… I would think Bosh would just want to fix them and deal with getting their supplier to pay — but perhaps there’s some dispute between them on who is to blame. But, that’s speculation.
As for paying for a repair person to install the board: Installation on my dishwasher is was very easy. Much better than waiting for a repair person to show up. And I think I “only” paid about $120 (can’t remember for sure) for the board from a local distributor.
Frankly, I thought it was going to be a waste of money to replace the board because mine didn’t have the obvious burnt out solder connection that you see in photos on the Internet. But, it indeed fixed it and saved me the cost of a new dishwasher.
While researching new dishwashers I called a bunch of repair shops that repair Bosch along with other brands asking about the problem and what new brand they would recommend. I think I called three shops and everyone said they would still recommend the Bosch even with the history of this problem.
May 22nd, 2008 at 6:23 pm
The latest from Bosch is that their warranties are non-transferrable. Even if it was within the first year, they would not pay to fix my dishwasher or provide the parts.
I think that is very poor customer service and customer policy! They claim their products are so great, you would think they would make good on the claim!
I am even more frustrated with them now!
May 23rd, 2008 at 4:05 pm
Hello again. This is Dave “waiting to see if the repair will hold” from last September: well, it has done.
If you’ve got the “obvious burnt-out solder” problem on your controller, it definitely worked (at least for me) to take the board out, scrape away the crud around the burnt connection and re-solder it.
Eight months and still going strong.
May 24th, 2008 at 4:02 pm
Hi folks. I have an 11 year old SHU4302. I have resoldered the circuit board twice, and I’m ready to bite the bullet and replace it. However, this time the symptoms are quite different, and I’m wondering if I have a different or additional problem. In a nutshell, the machine won’t start at all. No lights, no sound, no power. I checked the fuse (in basement - I don’t know if there’s a separate one on the machine). I’m about to run out to buy a voltmeter to make sure power is getting to the switch. HOWEVER, I took out the circuit board, and it has clearly burnt out that solder spot again - so I’m wondering if the complete lack of power is a plausible result of that problem also.
Thanks!
July 8th, 2008 at 9:00 pm
Hi, I have a Bosch Model SHU4302 D/W (bought in 2000) that runs for 3 hours plus and the water does not seem to be hot enough. The control board was replaced in 2003. Would the problem be the control board again or perhaps the heating element?
Thanks for any help in this matter.
July 8th, 2008 at 11:37 pm
After MANY complaints made by my husband and me, we finally got a representative who agreed to reduce the price of the module to $60. We used the instructions I found somewhere and changed it. The dishwasher has worked fine since then. Honestly, it still makes me mad that they seem to have this recurring problem that they were unwilling to acknowledge.
July 14th, 2008 at 4:44 pm
Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controler board?
Thank you
July 14th, 2008 at 4:45 pm
Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controller board?
Thank you
July 14th, 2008 at 4:52 pm
Paul and Cherylanne, that sounds very much like what we encountered on three separate occasions, and though I sometimes stalled for months thinking it might fix itself (it did not), it went right back to short cycles and clean dishes as soon as I soldered or replaced the board. The new boards appear to be more robust (see my posts from Aug. 15 and Aug. 27, 2007, above) and so far ours is holding out well. Yes, it costs you $150 or so to replace, but it feels great to shut that door, turn it on, and not worry about it running all night long.
July 16th, 2008 at 4:43 pm
Hi. I have a Bosch SHU6806uc/u12 and it is reading 2H, which after reading this board sounds like a common problem. I am about to order a new control module for it. Can you tell me if it is easy to change? Can any layman do it? If so, where will I find the instructions or does it come with the replacement part?
July 18th, 2008 at 4:38 pm
Does anybody remember potting compound? The phone co. used it all the time. Make the wiring connections, test them, & souse the potting compound to it. The stuff set up as hard plastic which protected the installation through storms, etc. Why not upgrade the control module, ckt board etc, whatever to 15 amp & pot the damned thing. That would solve the moisture/steam problem which seems to plague dishwashers.True, nobody could repair the ckt board after potting, But no one does anyway.
July 19th, 2008 at 12:56 am
Brandy, the board doesn’t come with instructions but if you have basic skills and the right attitude, you shouldn’t have a problem. See my post on Sept. 17, 2007 for the procedure: take apart door, unplug wires to module, unclip the module, etc.
That board is still working fine for us, though it’s been less than a year, so who knows how long it will last.
Oh yeah, best to unplug or open the circuit breaker first!
Good luck.
August 2nd, 2008 at 6:21 am
appliancepartspros.com have a repair forum which is somewhat helpful. They don’t answer all your posts but you can find others who have had similar failures and their repairs. I was able to find a technician repair pdf manual for my Bosch SHU5315/UC12. I am sure it is still posted there. It has schematics and test procedures too, not much on disassembly though.
August 20th, 2008 at 8:02 pm
I had read that Bosh makes Thermadore dishwashers and wanted to know if this control module is compatable with the Thermador DWHD64EP? The controls are concealed on the top right corner of the door.
Thanks for a reply if you know.
Keith
September 5th, 2008 at 2:25 am
I have a Bosch SHI6805 with the “2H” problem, and (thanks to this thread) was planning to try the solder fix on the control module. But my sink drain got clogged and water backed up into the dishwasher. When I cleared the drain, the dishwasher pumped out the water but now the pump won’t stop running and I don’t seem to be able to cancel whatever cycle it thinks it’s in (although I can make it stop) even though I’m following the Bosch cancel-cycle instructions. So the machine won’t run a cycle.
Is this a control module problem also, so I should just replace the module, or is there something else I can do?
Thanks!
September 20th, 2008 at 10:26 pm
WE HAVE A BOSCH DISHWASHER THAT NEEDS A NEW CONTROL BOARD OUR MODEL IS SHU5316 UC/14 WILL THIS CONTROL WORK WITH THIS OR DO YOU HAVE ONE THAT WOULD BRENDA
September 22nd, 2008 at 6:38 am
Yes, SHU5316 UC14 takes the same exact module: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802870&pn_=266746
October 9th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
i am not very mechanical at all but was able to replace the control board within a half hour.I then spent the next 3 hours trying to replace the front door panel. fyi to would be diy’ers the white supports fit onto the metal frame not the door panel itself. also tilt them forward and lift the door panel up and over the supports before you lift the door panel up into the display panel. Had i did this, the entire job would have taken 40 minutes tops. live and learn. hope this helps another less than handy person.
October 31st, 2008 at 8:17 pm
Question on control panel basics.
we just purchased and had installed SHX98M09UC. Accidentally chg’d standard setting (i dunno, was scrolling thru & “value chg’d” confirmation popped up. Now we have over 2 hour run times on standard wash pgms…not what we want.
The manual is vague (in so many respects) and doesn’t address “return to default” settings
Do you have info on this???
Also, we “upgraded” from prior model that had “quick wash”–what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… does this model have quick washfeature??
And lastly, as a user/customer–> is there a more explicit wash program info document available? or can someone lay this info out for users (like me). i have good computer user skills; but not a pgmer.
thanks for any help!
j
October 31st, 2008 at 8:21 pm
“what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… ” oooooops should be: could NOT access….
November 16th, 2008 at 4:33 pm
I have a Bosch dishwasher SHU6806UC/U06. The dishwahser runs but no water enters the machine and the cycle will not end. I can get it to ru down to 1 minute but it just starts over again. Also, if I add water it just drains out automatically.
November 25th, 2008 at 10:32 pm
I have a Bosch SHU5306UC. My problem is: one has to push the buttons REALLY REALLY hard to get them to stick and make the washer turn on at all. Forget using the Super-duper wash cycle or the super wash cycle. You could push til the cows come home and it won’t click in. After reading all these posts about the control module, is that my problem too??? Everything else works great (knock wood), except for the difficulty of getting the thing going. A repair dude in my area costs $99 just to walk in the door and look at the thing for 18 mins. Then it’s $120/hr after that, plus parts, obviously. Do I attempt replacing the module myself? I am pretty handy (repaired several of my laptops, including replacing the screen), but if it is going to be really difficult, I’d rather just live with it (or just pay the man). Suggestions? Thanks!
December 5th, 2008 at 6:48 pm
I just purchased the control panel for a Bosch 6805. Can you post the installation instructions? thanks
December 5th, 2008 at 6:55 pm
Hi
I just purchased a Bosch Control Module at AppliancePartsPros. Can you post installation instructions? I’m an amateur when it comes to electronics stuff. Thanks
December 11th, 2008 at 7:56 pm
I have SHU5314UC model. I have the same problm as many people in this thread. I ran the test program and it came down to error code 2.
Any advise on what to start checking first?
January 25th, 2009 at 4:52 am
Does the replacement control module picture on the site come with the plastic case or do you need to resuse the old case?
January 28th, 2009 at 12:42 am
i just completed the solder repair on a bosch whu4306uc/06. it is working correctly. however, when i reassembled everything, i must’ve got something wrong because the button keys no longer spring back into position. they’ll change the settings, but basically stay in whatever position you leave them. suggestions?
also, if i go ahead and replace the control module at some point, will i start getting the count-down feature as well? (not part of my model, but it looks like it’s inherent in the replacement module shown above (266746)
February 3rd, 2009 at 8:21 pm
Aaron, the module includes the plastic case, just as pictured.
February 16th, 2009 at 4:44 pm
Is the solder failure on Bosch control module part #266746 the same reason for the recall they issued in 2008?
February 21st, 2009 at 7:04 pm
I was just contacted by Bosch because the control module had been recalled for my dishwasher. They sent a new control module (part 647475) for free and also offered to install it but I did it myself.
February 26th, 2009 at 3:09 am
I have a 10-year-old SHU5315 with the same 2H problem that so many others have had: wash cycle starts with 2H and runs down to 1 and stays there. My question concerns the new control module and the design changes described on the AppliancePartPros.com site. The module has 8 lights, but my machine has only 6. The note in the parts description says that the “lights may be covered by the plastic case and that I may have to remove the square covers over the indicator lights.” It goes on to say that it “no longer uses the red bulb indicator lights, small surface mounted lights are used intstead. If I install the new control module, will I be able to see the indicator lights on the outside panel once everything is put back together? I’m worried that the new module’s lights won’t line up properly with the circles of my old machine.
February 26th, 2009 at 9:35 pm
I have a SHU5317UC model that is nine years old. I replaced the control module four years ago because of a never ending cleaning cycle problem.
Now the problem presented itself again, would run down to 1 minute and then restart. I ordered a replacement module from http://www.PartsPeddler.com and it came today. I replaced the module and the problem still exists.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
February 26th, 2009 at 10:04 pm
Back in August, Raymond mentioned that he found a pdf of the repair manual for the Bosch SHU5315 at applicancepartspros.com, but the tech I chatted with said there wasn’t one available. Can anyone help me find one?
March 26th, 2009 at 6:37 pm
I have a Bosch SHU 4316 UC-06 dishwasher and have spent the day cleaning the “build up” inside the dishwasher. After reading many comments and doing the test;
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
WASH = Heater fault
RINSE/DRY = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
CLEAN = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), RINSE/DRY light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), CLEAN light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.
I have found that two lights lit up 1st. = Clean (indicates temp sensor fault)
2nd. = Rinse/hold
The wash cycle is much like the posts I’ve read, 3hrs.
I’m wondering if I also need a control module/board (or re-solder existing).
I would really appreciate some insight.
March 26th, 2009 at 8:11 pm
hello i have a bosch SHU6806UC which doesn’t work. on the display it says F, can you tell me what this code means. I try to reset and get CL and continues to drain and won’t finish or move on to another cycle,the machine seems to build up water in the tub and i turn it on so it will drain but still runs and is stuck with an F on the display please help thanks, Rich.
April 17th, 2009 at 5:42 pm
I have a SHU6805uc/06 dishwasher and the control board also has a burnt spot that cannot be fixed. I called Bosh and like many others the response I got is that the machine is out of warrantee. This is obviously a design flaw that should have been recalled, but instead Bosh decided to recall only some of the models. Has anyone taken any legal action against Bosh ? I called the AG’s office in ct. to file a formal complaint, I would suggest that you that have had this problem do the same. Bosh should not be allowed to ignore this problem.
April 18th, 2009 at 2:48 pm
I would think that since Bosch knows that this control board is defective and there is a general recall to replace it, then they are on the hook to replace all of them. The first time a kitchen or whole house burns down or heaven forbid someone gets burned from a fire that starts from this problem, then they are totally responsible and will have a difficult time defending their inaction! That will cost them multiple $$$. Did someone say class action suit?
May 11th, 2009 at 1:04 pm
What a terrific web site/service! I have the ’stuck on 2h’ problem described above. From this site I learned how to diagnose the problem, take off the control panel cover and order a new part, on sale I might add. Thanks to all who have contributed.
May 27th, 2009 at 4:36 pm
Some of the bosch dishwashers are under recall right now for a defective board relay that can burn up and start on fire. Call:
1800-856-9226 with model and serial. if you don’t get appropriate service, call the recall management line:
1-800-827-2315 - the folks at this # have fairly direct access to higher management on recall and non-recall issues, but even that may not help.
This part has the same defect as the recalled, but bosch refuses to fix the part or replace b/c it is an 8 year old part. When you call, they will deny the problem and say it happens only “every now and then”. I’m on my fourth board replacement in 8 years. Bosch gave us one free board when it blew a month after the warranty went out, but now will only give me 25% off replacements, which is the same price you can get the part on line.
Note that when you pull the board, if you find the burned out relay spot, you can likely resolder it and get another year or two out of the existing part. We are averaging 2 years for a new board at our house.
Love the DW otherwise, but I have submitted a formal complaint to Bosch on their practice regarding this part. Refusing to repair/replace a part that is known to literally burn up and create a potential fire hazard is criminal.
good luck–
mike
May 27th, 2009 at 5:19 pm
Mike (2009-05-27) — This is possibly the most important message in this board in its 2-1/2 year life.
My resoldered board has lasted 20 months so far, but the machine is starting to show the symptoms again. I’ll be calling Bosch to attempt to arm-twist them into providing me with a newer, safer board.
Like Mike, I really like the machine other than this problem.
Thank you,
Dave (2007-09-23, 2007-10-03 & 2008-05-23)
June 11th, 2009 at 2:27 am
I have a Bosch SHU6805. I had some of the same symptoms as previous posters (neverending wash cycles, displays 2H instead of 90 minutes, etc). I ordered the replacement module and put it in, and so far so good. The old module did have a burned out spot on it, so I am assuming that was the problem.
I wanted to give those of you who are trying to do the replacement yourself some useful advice:
1. When you unscrew the door to replace the module, DO NOT unscrew the two bottom screws on each side that face outward. These screws connect the door to the hinge, and they are VERY difficult to replace once removed. I made this mistake. You should only have to unscrew the ones around the edge that face up, and one screw at the top of each side that face out.
2. To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle). This opens the ‘back door’ and gives you access to the three plastic tabs in the front of the module that need to be lifted in order to remove the module. Then, repeat the same steps to install the new module.
Here’s hoping these newer modules don’t suffer the same flaw as the old ones.
Cheers,
-Steve
July 2nd, 2009 at 3:44 pm
Steve - Great post - thanks for the info! Using your tips I was able to replace this module in about 20 minutes. Only needed an extra hand from my daughter when putting the front panel back on.
One “slight” clarification on your instructions: “To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle).” This “back of the plastic case” and the “three tabs” refer to the the control module itself. I was confused at first and was searching for these on the front panel section. Thanks again for everyone’s advice. Hope this thing runs another 7 years now with the new module.