Bosch Dishwasher Control Module (266746)
Fri, Dec 8, 2006
This is the most commonly used Bosch control module. There have been a few changes made but it will still work on the older dishwasher models (see list below for all of the models this control module will work on). Some of the indicator lights might have a plastic covering over them. If so, you just have to remove it.
This control module will fit most Bosch dishwashers. Made by Bosch. Part Number: 266746.
The following model numbers use this control module:
- GM915-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
- GM915-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
- GM915-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- GM926-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
- GM926-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
- GM926-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHI4302 UC/06 -FD8002
- SHI4302 UC/11 -FD8003
- SHI4302 UC/12
- SHI4306 UC/06 -FD8002
- SHI4306 UC/11 -FD8003
- SHI4306 UC/12
- SHI6802 UC/06
- SHI6802 UC/11
- SHI6802 UC/12
- SHI6805 UC/06
- SHI6805 UC/11
- SHI6805 UC/12
- SHI6806 UC/06
- SHI6806 UC/11
- SHI6806 UC/12
- SHU4302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU4302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU4306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4312 UC/06 (FD 7701-7912)
- SHU4312 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU4312 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU4316 UC/06
- SHU4316 UC/11
- SHU4316 UC/12
- SHU5302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5304 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5304 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5304 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5305 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5305 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5305 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5307 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5312 GB/08
- SHU5312 UC/06
- SHU5312 UC/11
- SHU5312 UC/12
- SHU5314 UC/06
- SHU5314 UC/11
- SHU5314 UC/12
- SHU5315 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU5315 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU5315 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU5316 GB/08
- SHU5316 UC/06
- SHU5316 UC/11
- SHU5316 UC/12
- SHU5317 UC/12
- SHU6802 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6802 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6802 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU6805 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6805 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6805 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
- SHU6806 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
- SHU6806 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
- SHU6806 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
Popularity: 16% [?]
February 13th, 2007 at 8:56 pm
I have a Bosch Dishwasher model SHU5314 UC/06 and the timer does not count down as usual. It stays at a very high minute count and I notice that the water temperature is not getting hot as it did before. I’m wondering if the probklem is a defective control module or heater assembly or thermistor.
February 13th, 2007 at 8:57 pm
Any help is appreciated.
February 15th, 2007 at 8:08 pm
Hi Tom,
This is a somewhat common problem with Bosch dishwashers (not that a Bosch dishwasher is not reliable, it’s probably one of the better ones out there). Usually, the timer would get stuck on 2 minutes, but really it could get stuck on any point. The cause of the problem is usually this module, which you can order through the link above. Replacing the module is pretty easy, make sure to disconnect the power to the dishwasher first (unplug it).
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for stopping by.
admin
ApplianceJournal
April 27th, 2007 at 6:44 pm
I have a 4300 model 4306uc/u06 it is the same board w/0 led numbers will this work?
April 28th, 2007 at 1:29 am
Yes, this Bosch dishwasher board is good for the 4306 uc 06 model as well.
May 13th, 2007 at 1:39 pm
Have a 5305 dishwasher we only use about twice a week (only 2 of us in the house) and the second control module in now going bad after 7 1/2 years.
Piece of junk, at least the module is.
May 24th, 2007 at 2:43 am
Having trouble with the dishwasher.
Water is not coming in @ all.
I check the water line and it seem to be fine.
SO is the control module ( ran test).
does this mean water valve is bad?
where can i refer for internal assembly pictures…?
any help is appreciated.
May 24th, 2007 at 7:12 am
Raj, you can view internal components (diagrams and photos) by entering your dishwasher model number at the top of this page (under Find Appliance Parts), or post your model number here and I’ll get you a direct link.
What happens when you turn the dishwasher on? Any sound at all from the motor or anything else?
You always want to start from the basics, so if you haven’t already, make sure the dishwasher water shut off valve under the sink is open and functioning properly.
Post back as much details as you can and we’ll try to help.
June 11th, 2007 at 11:12 pm
Hi, I have a bosch SHU5302UC and the thing is stuck on 2H. I have to time our loads for 45 minutes and then clear it out so I can hit the rinse and hold button to get them clean. I called Bosch and they told me if its 2H that there something wrong and I should call a service person. Duh, that’s why I called them. They were no help whatsoever. So I’m hoping you can help. Is this also the control module as my water/dishes don’t seem to be screaming hot like they use to be. Help!
June 12th, 2007 at 12:56 am
Hi Sandy, welcome!
Bosch customer support will probably never tell you exactly what’s causing a problem with your Bosch appliance. Has to do with legal issues, plus they probably want to make a few bucks off the service call.
Well, in this capacity we are certainly not like Bosch customer support
Yes, I’m pretty certain that the cause of the problem is a faulty control module and the one at the top of the page is the right one for your model. You can get it from AppliancePartsPros by clicking on the module photo. I think they have it on sale.
If you need help with replacement, post another comment and we’ll provide instructions.
Thanks for visiting,
AJ
June 24th, 2007 at 8:20 pm
my bosch SHU 6805UC/U12 is doing the same thing.. hanging at 1 and not finishing. I do a manual clear. I am about to start the testing but is there a place to get directions on how to remove the module ? I have learned it is quicker to ask than repair:) thanks
Jim
June 25th, 2007 at 5:22 am
Jim,
What kind of testing were you planning on doing? What you are describing sounds very much like the faulty module problem.
Get the module from AppliancePartsPros using the link above. Their prices are better and you should get your module within a day or two.
As far as how to replace the old module… We’re working on a post that will have complete step by step instructions that will tell you how to remove the old module and replace it with the new one. I will leave a comment here on this page as soon as that post is ready. Should be just a couple of days.
AJ
June 29th, 2007 at 1:10 am
Me again, I have the Bosch SHU5302UC & the darn thing was hanging up on the 1 & also not heating. Well we ordered the ctrl module that AJ recommended. We looked at doing the work ourself but when we saw the installation would be a little tricky we ended up calling a Bosch service repair dude. He put it in & said we should be set. Works great and it only cost $75 for the installation - yeah!!! So under $200 and we’re good to go. Thanks so much for your help AJ.
June 29th, 2007 at 11:18 pm
That’s great, Sandy
Thank you for keeping us updated.
AJ
July 27th, 2007 at 4:35 am
I tried to install the 266746 control panel with a replacement, but could not figure out how to get the old one out. There must be a simple solution, but I spent an hour or more trying to figure this out, ultimately closing it back up with the old one still intact. Any step by step instructions available? Thanks!
August 15th, 2007 at 1:42 am
I just ordered this control board from you because ours is on the fritz, again. We’ve soldered one, gotten one used on ebay and bought a whole used dishwasher (only $100!) just to keep ours running, and every time it has been the control board. So my question is, if Bosch has indeed redesigned the cover and indicator lights, as stated on the AppliancePartsPros site, have they also toughened up the board so that it doesn’t fail so often? I mean, gee whiz, this problem has been going on for years. Is it that expensive to redesign a basic control board?
Sign me “tired of three-hour wash cycles”
August 27th, 2007 at 1:30 am
We got the new control board and found out that it HAS been re-engineered in several ways. With help from my son, an electrical engineering student, we learned that the board was redesigned for surface-mount components and that the two relays that have been the source of many problems (this is where the contacts melt) have been upgraded to a rating of 10 amps, rather than the 5 amps on the old board. My son says the company wouldn’t put in a bigger and more expensive component unless it was addressing a problem, so let’s hope this does the trick.
We popped it in and have run the machine three times since then, always with the cycle running at the proper length, about 70 minutes for the delicate/economy cycle that we use.
If this board lasts for the next 10 years or so then we’ll consider buying another Bosch, as we’ve always been impressed with how well it cleans and how quiet it is. But if the board fails, we’ll have to find someone else for our next dishwasher.
August 30th, 2007 at 6:41 pm
Thanks for the update, Patrick! Let’s hope it doesn’t fail for a long time.
Don’t forget about the warranty on the replacement board. If it fails within the first year, contact AppliancePartsPros.com and they’ll send you a replacement free of charge.
September 17th, 2007 at 2:54 pm
Any progress on the post re: how to replace a control unit? I’m trying to figure out if I want to attempt this or just call the service guys for a Bosch 6805 with what looks like a 2nd faulty control unit in 6 years.
September 17th, 2007 at 3:15 pm
Glenn, it isn’t very difficult to replace a control unit if you have basic mechanical skills. I’ve removed and replaced those control boards four times now. You need a torx driver to take the front door panel off (including some screws on the side), then you unhook all the wiring from the module (it fits only one way, so if you get the wires mixed up, just keep trying until you get them in the right slots). The module comes out by pushing on various plastic clips, and the new one pops right in. If there is a little jumper on the old board and not on your new one, move it over to the new board in the same position. Replace all the wires (including the green ground wire), put the door panel back on (making sure to position the white plastic wedges at the bottom just right, so that it holds in position), lightly screw in a few of the screws, make sure everything is lining up, and then tighten everything up.
Our new control board continues to work fine after a few weeks in the machine. Dishes are clean and cycle times are back to normal.
September 23rd, 2007 at 3:44 am
I’d like to second Patrick’s comments: I’m not exactly a skilled service tech, but I was able to get the door taken apart (it _is_ annoying, but persistence and care will see you through) and the control module removed, resoldered, and reinstalled without destroying the machine or injuring myself :-).
Can’t tell yet if the repair will hold.
October 1st, 2007 at 9:04 pm
How do I know if it is the control module?
October 2nd, 2007 at 5:52 pm
Describe the problem, Dave.
October 2nd, 2007 at 9:50 pm
Well I chickened out and had the Bosch repair guy come and replace the control unit. It was about $80 above the cost of the board and saved me a day. This was my 2nd control module replacement in a 6 year old machine. Thanks to Dave and Patrick for responding.
October 3rd, 2007 at 11:44 pm
This is Dave “Can’t tell if the repair will hold”: It did. The re-soldered control board is doing the job nicely.
A hint for those of you who want to solder the damaged connector rather than buy a new one: take a small knife and gently scrape away from the solder point, removing some of the insulation from the circuit board, and revealing more of the copper traces to take the solder.
I’m sure that helped my fix survive its first week, anyway.
October 17th, 2007 at 10:48 pm
I ordered the control module but it arrived with a broken plastic spring so I am reassembling the dishwasher but I cannot figure out were the plastic wedges go. They just “fell out” when I removed the face panel. Any tips?
October 17th, 2007 at 10:57 pm
If you mean the white wedges that are about an inch or two wide and have a slot in the middle, that slot will fit on the rail on each side of the door frame, just up from the bottom. You push the front panel against and around the wedges to line everything up; you’ll know you have it right if the screw holes line up. Does that make sense for your situation?
October 18th, 2007 at 12:04 am
Thanks for the quick tip. I will check on that in a bit. I don’t see a hole for a screw in the wedge but the rest of your description fits. I thought that they had come off the bottom.
DeWayne
October 18th, 2007 at 1:51 am
That’s correct, there is no hole in the wedge for a screw, you just push it into place. The screws I was referring to are the ones that hold the door front panel to the door assembly. Once you have your wedges in place (at the bottom, as you remember) and push the panel onto them, all the screw holes should line up between the panel and the door itself. Good luck.
October 18th, 2007 at 4:22 pm
Got it ad got the panels back on. What a hassle. It was not easy (at least for me!) to get the panel and the control cover (not sure what to call it) back on by myself. Good news I get o do it all again when the replacement part gets here. Thanks for all your advice.
DeWayne
December 6th, 2007 at 11:29 pm
I have a Bosch SHU6802 Dishwaher.
I have just installed my new control board and I’m not getting any water in the dishwasher at all when I turn it on. The water in on under the sink and the motor is running. I removed the water line and the brass fitting and it seems to be clear. I did have a problem with the kitchen faucet when I turned the water on there was debris in the line that slowed the water to the faucet. I need to know if the problem could be the that the control board needs to be reset or something. I need help
December 6th, 2007 at 11:33 pm
Continued Bosch SHU6802
I did a test on the control board and the first test was a “20″ the second time for the test a “4″
Any idea?
December 10th, 2007 at 5:44 pm
Steve, please post the problem on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ and one of the techs will help.
February 10th, 2008 at 1:41 am
I have a 10 year old Bosch SHU5315 which has had the original control module soldered for the 3rd time. Repair seems to last about 2 months. Hoping this is the last time, I scraped all the burnt gunk away from the relay pin–exposing some of the copper pcb and resoldered/also added a small piece of copper wire to act as a heatsink to the solder joint. My only concern is the new module board looks quite different from my old one and hope it works correctly should this repair fail again. Does anyone have a new one installed thats been in and working for a long time?
February 12th, 2008 at 3:48 am
I replaced mine back in October, it has worked fine ever since.
February 12th, 2008 at 2:12 pm
And I replaced ours in August 2007 with the redesigned board (10 amp relays, see Aug. 27 post above) and it has been working fine, with 70-minute economy cycles at least once per day. I’m satisfied . . . so far.
February 15th, 2008 at 3:19 am
I have a Bosch SMU4056UC/14. After raeding what others ahd to say, it looks like my contol module is also gone bad. I have had problems with my timing, as well as the machine not heating up. Will the new control modules work on my machine? Where can I find a control module and is it difficult to install in my type of machine?
February 15th, 2008 at 3:29 am
David, SMU4056UC14 does not have a module, instead it uses a timer and a selector switch. You can view breakdown diagrams and parts list, as well as order any part if needed, here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=195410&&model_id=232505.
If you have a technical question, try the appliance repair forum: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
Hope this helps.
February 15th, 2008 at 3:46 am
Thanks for the information. since the washer has a timer and a selector switch and not a control module, what wopuld cause it to not heat and the timing be screwed up? Is it a ahrd fix or should I be shopping for a new dishwasher? Thanks.
February 19th, 2008 at 6:53 am
Sounds like maybe the selector switch is bad.
If you have an ohmmeter, try this:
Select any cycle other than “Rinse & Hold” and check for continuity across terminals 1 and 3 on the selector switch. Replace the selector switch if it’s open (no continuity).
- How to check components for continuity http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
- Replacement selector switch for SMU4056UC14 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802789
February 23rd, 2008 at 12:55 am
Great site and help, thanks.
I have an SHU5306 with the “2h” problem. Open the control box and indeed found one solder connection burned out that I will resolder with the help of a friend who’s expert in that.
My concern is that there is an underlying cause and that it will just burn out again. Or that if I buy a new control module it will burn out as well because of whatever the underlying cause is.
Any suggestions as to how to allay that concern?
February 23rd, 2008 at 1:44 am
Our experience was that the board would burn again, but in one case it lasted about a year before failing again. And we had a new board fail, too, because it was the same as the old one, but as I reported here on Aug 27, 2007, Bosch finally did a revision of the board and replaced the relay that was overheating with a beefier 10 amp unit, rather than 5 amp.
I don’t know if that completely solves the problem, but ours is still working fine, and let me tell you, I quickly forgot about the $150 or whatever I spent for new module. It started working properly as soon as I installed it, and that was a great relief after getting myself worked up every night for months cancelling out the cycles to get the dishwasher to finish cleaning the dishes.
So you could try soldering it, since you have that option, then replace it if you need to later, with a certain amount of confidence that it will work. Or just replace it now and forget about it.
February 25th, 2008 at 2:34 pm
Patrick, thx for the encouragement.
Resoldered the connection Saturday morning and everything is working fine so far. The 2h code disappeared after the full cycle ran successfully once.
Here’s hoping it holds. I note with some curiosity that they upgraded to a 10A relay on a circuit that according to their own repair instructions draws 11 amps! Perhaps still undersized?
March 16th, 2008 at 6:23 pm
I’ve had this same problem a few times with my SHU5312. I think the board has been replaces two or maybe three times.
Is there a diagram to show which wires go to the heater unit? The solder joints all look fine on the board, so what would be helpful to know which wires go to the heater so I can can check with an ohm meter and also watch to see if the relay ever turns on.
The dishwasher is about ten years old and we use it about 3 or 4 times a week — normal household usage. So I’m wondering what if it’s time to start looking at new units.
March 16th, 2008 at 6:46 pm
I couldn’t find a diagram, but it was pretty clear to me which wires were connected to the high current edge-of-board connector. I presumed that they were the ones carrying the heater current. It didn’t hurt that they were also in the region of the 10A relay. I remember the connector was just about the middle of the long side.
Then it was clear in my case on visual inspection that one of the wires solder joint had failed.
Good luck.
March 17th, 2008 at 11:24 pm
Here’s a few photos — photo of the board isn’t great, but maybe you can see the heater wires on the controller photo. These are all at hank dot org slash bosch_board.jpg and bosch_connections.jpg. (The board filtered the full urls when I posted yesterday).
March 18th, 2008 at 1:46 am
In my case, the one that had burned out was the bottom-most of the three that are all connected and below the “GV” in GV630
March 21st, 2008 at 9:22 am
Hi steve here, i have a Bosch SGV4313GB/17 and for sometime it has not been taking in water, goes through all the motions when i feed it with water from the tap/jug.
Water is on because all i hear is the water clicking on and off, but not going through the system to wash. Would this be the regulator/level sensor or a blockage …. our water in our area is hard.
I have looked at the exploded diagrams on the Bosch website and am quite mechanically minded.
hope you can help regards
steve
March 27th, 2008 at 7:52 am
Steve, post your question on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com and one of the experts will help.
April 15th, 2008 at 9:00 pm
I have a problem with my Bosch DW SHX57c. It doesn’t work any more.
Here is example:
Timer with Quick Wash selected starts from somewhat 70min and counts down without any sign of DW live. Nothing happens during this “cycle”. Before, Quick wash started at 37min and DW worked pretty loud.
If I push “cancel” combination, drain cycle starts.
could anybody help?
thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
May 20th, 2008 at 4:07 pm
We have model SHU 5315 with the same problem many have described — cycle taking hours (turned it off after four hours and it still said it hd 42 minutes left).
Since this seems to be such a common problem, why doesn’t Bosch offer to fix all of them? It seems a company like Bosch would do a recall and send technicians out to replace the board on all of the defective units.
I don’t feel like I should spend $200 or more to fix a dishwasher that is only three years old. (It has only been used daily since we moved into the house two years ago.) Bosch will pay for the circuit board, but the fee for the repair guy to simply walk into my kitchen is $90. That doesn’t include the fee to take out the circuit board and replace it. Yes, we could do it ourselves, but should we all have to fix expensive dishwashers with what seems to be a defect in the board?
Is there a way to get Bosch to cover this expense?
May 20th, 2008 at 5:16 pm
My dishwasher is almost 10 years old, so it’s understandable that Bosch would not pay for the replacement part. And I did ask for them to do that.
Bosch did pay for replacement of the board a few times before — even a year or two after the warranty expired, so I have to give them credit for that.
That said, this seems to be a rather large defect that I suspect that Bosh wish would just go away… I would think Bosh would just want to fix them and deal with getting their supplier to pay — but perhaps there’s some dispute between them on who is to blame. But, that’s speculation.
As for paying for a repair person to install the board: Installation on my dishwasher is was very easy. Much better than waiting for a repair person to show up. And I think I “only” paid about $120 (can’t remember for sure) for the board from a local distributor.
Frankly, I thought it was going to be a waste of money to replace the board because mine didn’t have the obvious burnt out solder connection that you see in photos on the Internet. But, it indeed fixed it and saved me the cost of a new dishwasher.
While researching new dishwashers I called a bunch of repair shops that repair Bosch along with other brands asking about the problem and what new brand they would recommend. I think I called three shops and everyone said they would still recommend the Bosch even with the history of this problem.
May 22nd, 2008 at 6:23 pm
The latest from Bosch is that their warranties are non-transferrable. Even if it was within the first year, they would not pay to fix my dishwasher or provide the parts.
I think that is very poor customer service and customer policy! They claim their products are so great, you would think they would make good on the claim!
I am even more frustrated with them now!
May 23rd, 2008 at 4:05 pm
Hello again. This is Dave “waiting to see if the repair will hold” from last September: well, it has done.
If you’ve got the “obvious burnt-out solder” problem on your controller, it definitely worked (at least for me) to take the board out, scrape away the crud around the burnt connection and re-solder it.
Eight months and still going strong.
May 24th, 2008 at 4:02 pm
Hi folks. I have an 11 year old SHU4302. I have resoldered the circuit board twice, and I’m ready to bite the bullet and replace it. However, this time the symptoms are quite different, and I’m wondering if I have a different or additional problem. In a nutshell, the machine won’t start at all. No lights, no sound, no power. I checked the fuse (in basement - I don’t know if there’s a separate one on the machine). I’m about to run out to buy a voltmeter to make sure power is getting to the switch. HOWEVER, I took out the circuit board, and it has clearly burnt out that solder spot again - so I’m wondering if the complete lack of power is a plausible result of that problem also.
Thanks!
July 8th, 2008 at 9:00 pm
Hi, I have a Bosch Model SHU4302 D/W (bought in 2000) that runs for 3 hours plus and the water does not seem to be hot enough. The control board was replaced in 2003. Would the problem be the control board again or perhaps the heating element?
Thanks for any help in this matter.
July 8th, 2008 at 11:37 pm
After MANY complaints made by my husband and me, we finally got a representative who agreed to reduce the price of the module to $60. We used the instructions I found somewhere and changed it. The dishwasher has worked fine since then. Honestly, it still makes me mad that they seem to have this recurring problem that they were unwilling to acknowledge.
July 14th, 2008 at 4:44 pm
Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controler board?
Thank you
July 14th, 2008 at 4:45 pm
Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controller board?
Thank you
July 14th, 2008 at 4:52 pm
Paul and Cherylanne, that sounds very much like what we encountered on three separate occasions, and though I sometimes stalled for months thinking it might fix itself (it did not), it went right back to short cycles and clean dishes as soon as I soldered or replaced the board. The new boards appear to be more robust (see my posts from Aug. 15 and Aug. 27, 2007, above) and so far ours is holding out well. Yes, it costs you $150 or so to replace, but it feels great to shut that door, turn it on, and not worry about it running all night long.
July 16th, 2008 at 4:43 pm
Hi. I have a Bosch SHU6806uc/u12 and it is reading 2H, which after reading this board sounds like a common problem. I am about to order a new control module for it. Can you tell me if it is easy to change? Can any layman do it? If so, where will I find the instructions or does it come with the replacement part?
July 18th, 2008 at 4:38 pm
Does anybody remember potting compound? The phone co. used it all the time. Make the wiring connections, test them, & souse the potting compound to it. The stuff set up as hard plastic which protected the installation through storms, etc. Why not upgrade the control module, ckt board etc, whatever to 15 amp & pot the damned thing. That would solve the moisture/steam problem which seems to plague dishwashers.True, nobody could repair the ckt board after potting, But no one does anyway.
July 19th, 2008 at 12:56 am
Brandy, the board doesn’t come with instructions but if you have basic skills and the right attitude, you shouldn’t have a problem. See my post on Sept. 17, 2007 for the procedure: take apart door, unplug wires to module, unclip the module, etc.
That board is still working fine for us, though it’s been less than a year, so who knows how long it will last.
Oh yeah, best to unplug or open the circuit breaker first!
Good luck.
August 2nd, 2008 at 6:21 am
appliancepartspros.com have a repair forum which is somewhat helpful. They don’t answer all your posts but you can find others who have had similar failures and their repairs. I was able to find a technician repair pdf manual for my Bosch SHU5315/UC12. I am sure it is still posted there. It has schematics and test procedures too, not much on disassembly though.
August 20th, 2008 at 8:02 pm
I had read that Bosh makes Thermadore dishwashers and wanted to know if this control module is compatable with the Thermador DWHD64EP? The controls are concealed on the top right corner of the door.
Thanks for a reply if you know.
Keith
September 5th, 2008 at 2:25 am
I have a Bosch SHI6805 with the “2H” problem, and (thanks to this thread) was planning to try the solder fix on the control module. But my sink drain got clogged and water backed up into the dishwasher. When I cleared the drain, the dishwasher pumped out the water but now the pump won’t stop running and I don’t seem to be able to cancel whatever cycle it thinks it’s in (although I can make it stop) even though I’m following the Bosch cancel-cycle instructions. So the machine won’t run a cycle.
Is this a control module problem also, so I should just replace the module, or is there something else I can do?
Thanks!
September 20th, 2008 at 10:26 pm
WE HAVE A BOSCH DISHWASHER THAT NEEDS A NEW CONTROL BOARD OUR MODEL IS SHU5316 UC/14 WILL THIS CONTROL WORK WITH THIS OR DO YOU HAVE ONE THAT WOULD BRENDA
September 22nd, 2008 at 6:38 am
Yes, SHU5316 UC14 takes the same exact module: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802870&pn_=266746
October 9th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
i am not very mechanical at all but was able to replace the control board within a half hour.I then spent the next 3 hours trying to replace the front door panel. fyi to would be diy’ers the white supports fit onto the metal frame not the door panel itself. also tilt them forward and lift the door panel up and over the supports before you lift the door panel up into the display panel. Had i did this, the entire job would have taken 40 minutes tops. live and learn. hope this helps another less than handy person.
October 31st, 2008 at 8:17 pm
Question on control panel basics.
we just purchased and had installed SHX98M09UC. Accidentally chg’d standard setting (i dunno, was scrolling thru & “value chg’d” confirmation popped up. Now we have over 2 hour run times on standard wash pgms…not what we want.
The manual is vague (in so many respects) and doesn’t address “return to default” settings
Do you have info on this???
Also, we “upgraded” from prior model that had “quick wash”–what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… does this model have quick washfeature??
And lastly, as a user/customer–> is there a more explicit wash program info document available? or can someone lay this info out for users (like me). i have good computer user skills; but not a pgmer.
thanks for any help!
j
October 31st, 2008 at 8:21 pm
“what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… ” oooooops should be: could NOT access….
November 16th, 2008 at 4:33 pm
I have a Bosch dishwasher SHU6806UC/U06. The dishwahser runs but no water enters the machine and the cycle will not end. I can get it to ru down to 1 minute but it just starts over again. Also, if I add water it just drains out automatically.
November 25th, 2008 at 10:32 pm
I have a Bosch SHU5306UC. My problem is: one has to push the buttons REALLY REALLY hard to get them to stick and make the washer turn on at all. Forget using the Super-duper wash cycle or the super wash cycle. You could push til the cows come home and it won’t click in. After reading all these posts about the control module, is that my problem too??? Everything else works great (knock wood), except for the difficulty of getting the thing going. A repair dude in my area costs $99 just to walk in the door and look at the thing for 18 mins. Then it’s $120/hr after that, plus parts, obviously. Do I attempt replacing the module myself? I am pretty handy (repaired several of my laptops, including replacing the screen), but if it is going to be really difficult, I’d rather just live with it (or just pay the man). Suggestions? Thanks!
December 5th, 2008 at 6:48 pm
I just purchased the control panel for a Bosch 6805. Can you post the installation instructions? thanks
December 5th, 2008 at 6:55 pm
Hi
I just purchased a Bosch Control Module at AppliancePartsPros. Can you post installation instructions? I’m an amateur when it comes to electronics stuff. Thanks
December 11th, 2008 at 7:56 pm
I have SHU5314UC model. I have the same problm as many people in this thread. I ran the test program and it came down to error code 2.
Any advise on what to start checking first?
January 25th, 2009 at 4:52 am
Does the replacement control module picture on the site come with the plastic case or do you need to resuse the old case?
January 28th, 2009 at 12:42 am
i just completed the solder repair on a bosch whu4306uc/06. it is working correctly. however, when i reassembled everything, i must’ve got something wrong because the button keys no longer spring back into position. they’ll change the settings, but basically stay in whatever position you leave them. suggestions?
also, if i go ahead and replace the control module at some point, will i start getting the count-down feature as well? (not part of my model, but it looks like it’s inherent in the replacement module shown above (266746)
February 3rd, 2009 at 8:21 pm
Aaron, the module includes the plastic case, just as pictured.
February 16th, 2009 at 4:44 pm
Is the solder failure on Bosch control module part #266746 the same reason for the recall they issued in 2008?
February 21st, 2009 at 7:04 pm
I was just contacted by Bosch because the control module had been recalled for my dishwasher. They sent a new control module (part 647475) for free and also offered to install it but I did it myself.
February 26th, 2009 at 3:09 am
I have a 10-year-old SHU5315 with the same 2H problem that so many others have had: wash cycle starts with 2H and runs down to 1 and stays there. My question concerns the new control module and the design changes described on the AppliancePartPros.com site. The module has 8 lights, but my machine has only 6. The note in the parts description says that the “lights may be covered by the plastic case and that I may have to remove the square covers over the indicator lights.” It goes on to say that it “no longer uses the red bulb indicator lights, small surface mounted lights are used intstead. If I install the new control module, will I be able to see the indicator lights on the outside panel once everything is put back together? I’m worried that the new module’s lights won’t line up properly with the circles of my old machine.
February 26th, 2009 at 9:35 pm
I have a SHU5317UC model that is nine years old. I replaced the control module four years ago because of a never ending cleaning cycle problem.
Now the problem presented itself again, would run down to 1 minute and then restart. I ordered a replacement module from http://www.PartsPeddler.com and it came today. I replaced the module and the problem still exists.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
February 26th, 2009 at 10:04 pm
Back in August, Raymond mentioned that he found a pdf of the repair manual for the Bosch SHU5315 at applicancepartspros.com, but the tech I chatted with said there wasn’t one available. Can anyone help me find one?
March 26th, 2009 at 6:37 pm
I have a Bosch SHU 4316 UC-06 dishwasher and have spent the day cleaning the “build up” inside the dishwasher. After reading many comments and doing the test;
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
WASH = Heater fault
RINSE/DRY = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
CLEAN = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), RINSE/DRY light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), CLEAN light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.
I have found that two lights lit up 1st. = Clean (indicates temp sensor fault)
2nd. = Rinse/hold
The wash cycle is much like the posts I’ve read, 3hrs.
I’m wondering if I also need a control module/board (or re-solder existing).
I would really appreciate some insight.
March 26th, 2009 at 8:11 pm
hello i have a bosch SHU6806UC which doesn’t work. on the display it says F, can you tell me what this code means. I try to reset and get CL and continues to drain and won’t finish or move on to another cycle,the machine seems to build up water in the tub and i turn it on so it will drain but still runs and is stuck with an F on the display please help thanks, Rich.
April 17th, 2009 at 5:42 pm
I have a SHU6805uc/06 dishwasher and the control board also has a burnt spot that cannot be fixed. I called Bosh and like many others the response I got is that the machine is out of warrantee. This is obviously a design flaw that should have been recalled, but instead Bosh decided to recall only some of the models. Has anyone taken any legal action against Bosh ? I called the AG’s office in ct. to file a formal complaint, I would suggest that you that have had this problem do the same. Bosh should not be allowed to ignore this problem.
April 18th, 2009 at 2:48 pm
I would think that since Bosch knows that this control board is defective and there is a general recall to replace it, then they are on the hook to replace all of them. The first time a kitchen or whole house burns down or heaven forbid someone gets burned from a fire that starts from this problem, then they are totally responsible and will have a difficult time defending their inaction! That will cost them multiple $$$. Did someone say class action suit?
May 11th, 2009 at 1:04 pm
What a terrific web site/service! I have the ’stuck on 2h’ problem described above. From this site I learned how to diagnose the problem, take off the control panel cover and order a new part, on sale I might add. Thanks to all who have contributed.
May 27th, 2009 at 4:36 pm
Some of the bosch dishwashers are under recall right now for a defective board relay that can burn up and start on fire. Call:
1800-856-9226 with model and serial. if you don’t get appropriate service, call the recall management line:
1-800-827-2315 - the folks at this # have fairly direct access to higher management on recall and non-recall issues, but even that may not help.
This part has the same defect as the recalled, but bosch refuses to fix the part or replace b/c it is an 8 year old part. When you call, they will deny the problem and say it happens only “every now and then”. I’m on my fourth board replacement in 8 years. Bosch gave us one free board when it blew a month after the warranty went out, but now will only give me 25% off replacements, which is the same price you can get the part on line.
Note that when you pull the board, if you find the burned out relay spot, you can likely resolder it and get another year or two out of the existing part. We are averaging 2 years for a new board at our house.
Love the DW otherwise, but I have submitted a formal complaint to Bosch on their practice regarding this part. Refusing to repair/replace a part that is known to literally burn up and create a potential fire hazard is criminal.
good luck–
mike
May 27th, 2009 at 5:19 pm
Mike (2009-05-27) — This is possibly the most important message in this board in its 2-1/2 year life.
My resoldered board has lasted 20 months so far, but the machine is starting to show the symptoms again. I’ll be calling Bosch to attempt to arm-twist them into providing me with a newer, safer board.
Like Mike, I really like the machine other than this problem.
Thank you,
Dave (2007-09-23, 2007-10-03 & 2008-05-23)
June 11th, 2009 at 2:27 am
I have a Bosch SHU6805. I had some of the same symptoms as previous posters (neverending wash cycles, displays 2H instead of 90 minutes, etc). I ordered the replacement module and put it in, and so far so good. The old module did have a burned out spot on it, so I am assuming that was the problem.
I wanted to give those of you who are trying to do the replacement yourself some useful advice:
1. When you unscrew the door to replace the module, DO NOT unscrew the two bottom screws on each side that face outward. These screws connect the door to the hinge, and they are VERY difficult to replace once removed. I made this mistake. You should only have to unscrew the ones around the edge that face up, and one screw at the top of each side that face out.
2. To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle). This opens the ‘back door’ and gives you access to the three plastic tabs in the front of the module that need to be lifted in order to remove the module. Then, repeat the same steps to install the new module.
Here’s hoping these newer modules don’t suffer the same flaw as the old ones.
Cheers,
-Steve
July 2nd, 2009 at 3:44 pm
Steve - Great post - thanks for the info! Using your tips I was able to replace this module in about 20 minutes. Only needed an extra hand from my daughter when putting the front panel back on.
One “slight” clarification on your instructions: “To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle).” This “back of the plastic case” and the “three tabs” refer to the the control module itself. I was confused at first and was searching for these on the front panel section. Thanks again for everyone’s advice. Hope this thing runs another 7 years now with the new module.
July 11th, 2009 at 5:06 pm
I too am having the 2H problem. I have a Bosch SHU6802UC/U12 (FD8004) and am wondering if this control module will work for it. I don’t see that exact model number listed above and just want to make sure it will work before I order the part.
Thanks so much!
Gina
July 11th, 2009 at 9:30 pm
Gina,
Yes, this module will fit SHU6802UC/U12 - see #1 here http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=194911&&model_id=232921
July 12th, 2009 at 12:57 am
I’d really strongly recommend ordering from Bosch at the number I listed above. Price is same or less than other places and you’ll get the new version of the module which has different relays than the original. Good luck. Mike
July 14th, 2009 at 11:28 pm
Ok, I have a SMU2046 that will not start. No ‘on light’ or anything. When I turn the timer unit, nothing. Is the timer unit out? Does it have a control panel as mentioned in past posts that I should be concerned about? Whatever help you can provide would be greatly appreciated! The kitchen is starting to smell.. :/
Thanks!
July 15th, 2009 at 12:02 am
The module in my Bosch SHU5302UC failed for the second time - first replacement was in 2004. I contacted Bosch Customer Service, they offered a new module at 50% off their retail price. Even with overnight shipping it was a good deal. I installed it myself, a bit challenging, followed the suggestions in earlier posts. The biggest issue was reinstalling the plastic wedges behind the front panel. They slip over the shiny metal hinge piece built onto the side, vertical frame. Otherwise, it’s a job than most can do with some patience.
July 15th, 2009 at 1:20 am
Appliancejournal - thanks for the quick reply. I need a little clarification, however. Is the conrol module #266746 the most current version?
Mike (7/20/2009) made a comment that there is a newer version.
Thanks for you reply as well, Mike!
Gina
July 15th, 2009 at 8:52 pm
Mike, I know exactly what you’re saying. I would assume that APP’s inventory is current, but you know what they say about assumptions
I will contact APP for confirmation and post back later today.
Bosch must be feeling a little guilty
If they’re really selling this board for half the price, which puts it right around $70, definitely get yours from Bosch. From what I can tell, most places sell it for around $150-$160, APP has it for $140. If you do order from Bosch, please let us know how it went and price paid. Seems that a lot of people are effected by this problem and the least we can do is help them save a few bucks on the new board.
July 15th, 2009 at 11:17 pm
Gina,
They’re physically checking stock in each warehouse. I should have an answer by tomorrow.
July 15th, 2009 at 11:29 pm
appliancejournal,
Thanks so much for the quick reply! You guys are the best!
Gina
July 16th, 2009 at 12:15 pm
This is not a question on the faults regarding the dishwasher per se, since I just bought one (now feeling worried).
I just wonder how you can justify spending what would be 20% ($150) of a new machine on an Eight year old machine in “replacing the board”. I mean, I’m an electronic engineer & have a couple of trades and kept a DW going for 25 years for less than $100, but when you are faced with this sort of reputation, why keep replacing it…? I don’t get it… (Well, I get the environmental idea, but not the sticking with a dud idea.)
July 16th, 2009 at 1:41 pm
Bosch was responsive and courteous to my call, they pulled my previous service-related call when the first module was replaced. That happened about year after the warranty period. At that time they sent a new module, no charge, and I paid a nominal fee for the installation. The Rep. offered another module at 50% off the listed price, and with overnight shipping it was still less expensive then any other vendor that I could find (AJ-your estimate is very close). Standard shipping was a nominal charge, 2-3 day and overnight shipping were options. I was assured it was the “new model”, 10 amp, and it looks like the new model pictured at various sites, with the new lights. I have no way of knowing if it is 10 amp, I trust Bosch on that. It works, and the dishwasher has operated perfectly over the years otherwise. To install the new module, I had to remove the front panels, plural, two pieces, the large flat panel and the top panel with the buttons. Then I had to remove the screw holding the top-right metal brace to slide the old module out and the new one back in. Before I unplugged the wires, I took a digital picture of the old unit, with wires attached, as a reference. As I said earlier, the challenge was trying to determine where the two black plastic wedges would go. On the back of the flat panel, near the bottom, I found two marks that were left by the wedges from resting against the panel over the years. Without those visual clues, I’m not sure if I would have been able to finish the job. I was almost ready to call a technician. Hope this helps. I believe Bosch has been responsive to me, and my experience has been excellent. Michael V.
July 17th, 2009 at 8:48 pm
Does anyone have any ideas about my post from 7/14 below? Would appreciate any help or suggestions.
“Ok, I have a SMU2046 that will not start. No ‘on light’ or anything. When I turn the timer unit, nothing. Is the timer unit out?”
July 20th, 2009 at 6:12 pm
My 4 year old Bosch dishwasher leaks around the bottom of the door everytime I use it now. The door seals look good and clean. I have nothing blocking steam outlet. Any other suggestions?
July 20th, 2009 at 7:22 pm
I have a Bosch dishwasher module SHU5302UC/16 and it is haveing the same problem as the recall, but it is not covered by the recall. It gets stuck on 1min most of the time and has run as long as 4 hours to finish the cycle. I have to pay $250 to replace the same module as the recall. Is there anyone that can help?
July 20th, 2009 at 7:36 pm
Rebecca; I have two Bosch dishwashers. Both have the same control modules, both had the same solder problem, and one was covered by their recall and the other I had to pay for myself. Bosch is apparently not recalling all of the models that have the defective part. They would not reimburse me or repair under recall the non-recalled dishwasher. It may take a disaster (i.e. a home fire) for them to realize their liability.
July 21st, 2009 at 12:34 am
Larry, first make sure that your dishwasher gets power. Does it show any signs of life? Are any of the lights on? If not, check the wall socket. Then follow the SMU2406 wiring diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=195305&&model_id=232452 to see where the power gets lost. Terminal block, burnt wire, door switch, on/off switch, finally the timer.
July 21st, 2009 at 12:37 am
Michael, Gina, APP said that they haven’t seen the old board in months. Every one they have in stock is that “new” reworked style. I am also trying to get in touch with Bosch to see if we can get more information out of them.
July 21st, 2009 at 1:10 am
Thanks, AP. I checked power at the wall..its hot .. . There are no lights, sound or anything indicating power. I guess I’ll pull the unit out and go from there.
August 1st, 2009 at 9:26 pm
Thanks, AP! Again, I can’t tell you how grateful I am for all the help you have given!
Just curious….you made the comment that you are trying to get in touch with Bosch to get more info out of them. What exactly are you inquiring about?
Thanks,
Gina
August 1st, 2009 at 10:44 pm
I just installed the control module formy Bosche shu6806uc/u06 and still no sign of life i have checked the wall circuit and main breaker all work fine Is there an internal fuse or do i need to call in a repair person to trace wires for disruptive electrical pattern - burned out wire?
is Bosche oing to reimburse me for my time and eforts at correcting their poor design and lack of customer service in providing newer inferior products built on a past good reputation. What a scam on the consumer. Shame n then I want results and deserve better as a consumer.
August 1st, 2009 at 10:46 pm
excuse the typo’s but i am disappointed in this process or lack of process.
August 4th, 2009 at 6:33 pm
Gina, we were trying (still trying that is) to get a response from Bosch on this issue - If there were improvements made to the board, would Bosch acknowledge the problem and would there be some sort of remedy for their customers?; Is getting the replacement module for half the price an official policy or does it depend on the CSR’s mood? Things like that
August 8th, 2009 at 1:58 am
My SHU5316 is experiencing similar problems to others posted here, it gets to a certain point in the progem and then stalls. From all of these posts I presume that it is either the heater element or the control module. I have inspected the control module and I do not see the burned solder joint that is often mentioned. Before I purchase a replacement control module and just instal lit I would rather check continuity on the heater element first to rule that out.
So, my question is, can anyone verify which of the connectors is for the heater element? Is it the one that is NOT an edge connector but rather the connector in the middle of the long side of the board that sits on top of the board? Mine has a BLK-BLK/GRY pair of wires and a single RED wire in it. Is this the heater? Also, what sort of resistence should I expect to measure across this?
Thanks
August 9th, 2009 at 7:47 pm
AP, thanks for looking into those things. I’m sure all of us would appreciate hearing what Bosch has to say in response.
Gina
August 9th, 2009 at 7:55 pm
I guess I should be addressing my responses to AJ (ApplianceJournal), rather than AP. Not sure where I came up with that.
August 11th, 2009 at 3:23 am
I have removed the bottom of the door but I can’t get to the module. How do i remove the top part of the door so I can get to the ckt board?
August 13th, 2009 at 1:30 pm
If I recall correctly, there are two, maybe four, screws on the top metal brace/bracket, separate from the bottom large door. I needed to remove the top screws to gain access to the module. The screws are on the side, near the top corner - may be hard to see.
Michael V.
August 13th, 2009 at 3:36 pm
Thank you Michael, you were right and it worked.
Bob K
August 20th, 2009 at 12:32 pm
Your welcome, Bob - glad to hear that you were able to continue and hopefully were successful with the project.
Michael V.
August 20th, 2009 at 2:58 pm
Michael,
I re-soldered the bad joint as well as adding a jumper to be sure and then tried the washer again, No luck, still 4 hour cycle time. Then I decided to take a chance that it was still a problem with the module so I ordered a replacement from BSH Home Appliances, Part # 264461. They were very helpful, had a live chat with them. Installed the module, very easy, and IT WORKEd. Back to 90 min cycle times. Thanks again.
Bob K
August 21st, 2009 at 2:40 pm
After reading that Bosch upgraded the relay to 10amp from 5 amp, I concluded that the root cause of the problem had been both identified and resolved. My choice was to replace the module rather than re-solder the defective unit after going through all the effort to remove it. DIYers are saving $$$$ when buying from vendors listed in this forum, and not directly from Bosch.
August 26th, 2009 at 8:49 pm
I just spent three days with Bosch trying to get information about why the controller board on my SHU5312UC/06 has failed for the second time in the past 8 years? What an absolute waste of my time trying to get information from them.
I was lucky enough to complain loudly enough about the shoddy replacement board I had already had installed in the unit (while still under warantee) so I got 50% off the price of the new board (still ended up costing me over $90)
The board I am replacing already had the “upgraded” (yeah right) 10A power modules on it. Guess they still burn out fast as this board is only 4 years old. So don’t assume this upgraded 10A component will last any longer than the original 5A one did.
When I got the replacement board from Bosch Service it did not come with the little plastic jumper shunt that was installed on the far right of my old controller board.
Bosch absolutely refused to help me answer the question of whether I should move this part to the new board, or i I should leave it off. All they wanted to do was send out a service technician for a $120 service call (defeats the whole purpose of DIY). Thank goodness I came across this Web site and the http://www.appliancepartpros.com where they have a free “troubleshooting guide” that specifically tells you to move the shunt from the old board to the new one. THANKS!
Bosch is simply a horrible company to work with, and despite their vaunted name, I will never buy another Bosch product again. Given the number of folks on this posting that have had burned out controllers, we should all band together to do a class-action lawsuit against Bosch to force some long-term solutions to this recurring problem.
INSTALLATION TIPS FROM MY EXPERIENCE:
On our SHU5312UC/06 I did the following:
1) UNPLUG THE DISHWASHER! Removed all screws across the door assembly except for the bottom screws near the hinge.
2) Pop out the top plastic housing - back and up - from the door assembly and tilted it back and let it hang from the on/off switch cable and the ground wire.
3) Disconnect the 7 cables from the back of the controller unit in the semi-clear plastic housing on the right of the door. Note their positions for reference, although they generally stay in order and are easy to reconnect.
4) Unsnap the clips (several of these) from the controller unit to release it from the top plastic door assembly (this is tricky, so take your time)
5) IMPORTANT: Remove the plastic jumper/shunt (if you controller has one) on the far right of the box. your replacement unit won’t have one and it is needed on the new controller.
6) Place the new controller in place (make sure the jumper/shunt was installed first) and snap it into the spot over the front panel buttons. It should snap into place.
7) Reconnect all the wiring harnesses in the same order on the new controller.
9) Once the top plastic housing with the controller is securely installed back in the door frame, put all of the door screws back in with the two screws that go in sideways last.
10) Plug back in the dishwasher and run a test cycle.
Hurray, you just saved a $120 service call and only wasted 30 minutes of your day.
August 28th, 2009 at 10:58 pm
I just went through this with my 1998 SHU4306. I resoldered the board as instructed, but also applied a jumper wire from the burned terminal to another terminal on the same “pad” on the board. If you look closely, there are 3 terminals about 1/4″ apart, one of them being the burned terminal. The other two terminals, if you look through the green solder mask are in-line going towards the 3 terminal plug (which is where the heater plugs in.).
In my opinion, just solder repair of the burned joint will not be adequate. AND, after doing this repair, the dishwasher only worked for about 2 weeks more before quitting again.
So, I did some research, and come to find out, the heater relay was bad. Probably because it’s rated 10 Amps (regardless of voltage, amps is amps), and the heater itself pulls pretty close if not slightly more than 10 amps.
The original relay in my board was made by Schrack and is no longer manufactured. I did some research, and found a Tyco relay T7CV5D-12, available from DigiKey electronics. Current price is $1.58, plus shipping (which was more than the cost of the relay. USPS was $2.07 for first class mail. Ordered Thursday afternoon, it arrived in Saturday’s mail.).
Using a solder sucker, I un-soldered the old relay, installed the new relay, made certain the jumper I had made was securely soldered to the burned terminal as well as the other two terminals described above.
All is well after a week, and very likely for another 10 years, if not longer due to the increased contact rating. I took the cover off the old relay and you could see the contact burnt up.
So if any of you do the solder trick, chances are it’s a short term repair, and you need to replace the relay, period. As the solder joint burns over cycles, it causes the contact to heat up, further causing damage to it. And it snow balls from there at each cycle.
FOr those of you who don’t want to go this deep into the repair, email me and I’ll work with you to repair the unit for far less than a new one costs. Of all the research I have done on this board, about the only failure issue I’ve caome across is the “does not heat” issue. I’ve not heard of anything else causing a failure.
August 29th, 2009 at 1:33 am
I have had enough so I’m buying a Bosch Ascenta Series Dishwasher, model SHE4AM16UC, is there anyone who can give an evaluation of this machine weather its good or bad as far as in integrity wise, my old Bosch broke down enough times that I will not put another dime into it. Thanks Rich.
August 29th, 2009 at 2:18 am
I’ve gone through the re-solder process twice in the last six months - even applied a jumper the second time around - and I’m back to where I started. Once again, the cycle runs down to 1 and just won’t quit. I’m interested in learning more about the fix that MrMark52 described. I have 1999 SHU5315 - will the relay you described work for my model?
August 29th, 2009 at 2:17 pm
To Jennifer,
Hate to be long winded, but -
The control looks for the water temperature to be heated to (I think) 160 degrees before it will end the cycle. Any countdown prior to the water reaching the temperature is more fictitious than anything, (although in tests, I am sure the manufacturer found that for typical water inlet temperatures that it took a given amount of time to heat the water to 160.).
The only indication I can give you to give an idea if the relay will work is look at the board. Mine had 3 relays on it, side by side. Tow were smaller relays, one was larger. The larger one is the culprit (you can see which pins that were resoldered go to what relay on the board.). Again, mine was an orange Shrack (all three relays are) with a 12VDC coil and 10 amp rated contacts.
I would suggest that what do you have to lose to try the repair? $5 and a little time? Versus a new timer?
Another thing you can do is to remove the relay and take the cover off. You can look the contacts over and make you own decision. I noticed the reed of the relay was discolored, indicating it had gotten hot. With a magnifying glass (I’m an old fart, so my eye’s are not what they used to be) I could see the burned contacts.
August 29th, 2009 at 4:33 pm
I have tried several times to post a question on that thread, but it never actually gets posted. I was wondering what are the requirements if any in order to be able to post something here?
September 3rd, 2009 at 8:37 pm
I have a model she46c06uc/46 with the same program control module problem. Does my dishwasher also use the 266746 module? Also, how can I be sure that the new module I buy is not going to develop the same problem? Thanks.
September 4th, 2009 at 2:57 am
To determine if your dishwasher uses the same board, you can go to http://www.searspartsdirect.com and look up the P/N’s for your unit.
However, I don’t know that the design flaw is common to only 1 of their boards, or a range of their boards. Key thing is to see if you have a larger relay with a 10 Amp rating. If so, you probably have the problematic relay.
September 5th, 2009 at 2:28 pm
I have a SHU6805UC/U06. Replace the board last year with the new updated one. It runs good, but dishes are not getting clean as of this week. I cleaned everything (drain, filter, wash arms) and ran a diagnostic test. It is indicating that “flow switch (e5) has failed (opened)”. I had to cancel the test cycle and opened it right after and it seemed to be very hot inside so water is heating.
I am looking to see if the flow switch at APP is easy to replace or not and if so if anyone has tips for doing it.
Thanks
Jesse
September 8th, 2009 at 5:37 am
Mark, your model takes a different module - part number 661682 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?pn_=661682&part_id=3965017
September 8th, 2009 at 5:43 am
Jesse,
A flow switch is not difficult to replace.
Read the Bosch dishwasher manual (it covers your model as well as most others) - http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/attachments/dishwasher-repair/180d1207853064-bosch-dishwasher-troubleshoot-manual-bosch-dishwasher-troubleshoot.pdf
Flow switch location - number 8 on this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=232446&diagram_id=194921#d194921
September 15th, 2009 at 12:37 am
Will the Control Module at the top of this post fit a model SHU43C06UC 46 Bosch dishwasher. What was the outcome of ordering from Bosch vs online/local parts supplier (price difference). My model was listed in the recall but apparently since it was purchased in March 2007 was not eligible. Cycle stops at 1 minute
and runs for hours. Read all of the posts and seems likely to be the Control Module.
September 18th, 2009 at 8:57 am
Hi all. My dishwasher got a problem and I suspect the control module. It’s not quite the same as you describe. When I power on the machine, all leds are black. When I push a button the display that usually show time, lights up two segments of the numbers. Pushing an other button lights up two other segments. Almost like a test cycle of the buttons. Nothing else happens. The type sign is since long time gone so I don’t know the model number. I guess I have to pull the machine out and maybe it’s another sign on the back. The control module says Siemens 5wk57607 and:
‘ 05 37 02 ‘
‘ 5 600 030 640 AI02′
Any clues or other steps I can perform to be sure the module is broken?
September 19th, 2009 at 9:43 pm
Having to change the electronic module on my SHU4302 and as the part on this page listed my machine as supported, I bought this module.
Althought it seems to work fine (no more running for hours), the buttons and led do not match my fascia panel. From what I can tell it matches the SHU5302 (led display, program function shifted one button to the right…
My question is can I keep using this module safely with this model (although it is not meant for it), and if so, I can then just buy the 5302 fascia panel so that I can see the led display, and have the program names at the proper place.
thanks for any feedback
September 24th, 2009 at 5:33 pm
After more in depth testing it appears I have all the functionality of the 6802 with that board (delay start, top rack only, power scrub, scrub, regular, eco, quick, rinse, wash modes).
So if I keep the board, I’ll need to get the 6800 serie fascia panel so I can actually use these.
Again, not looking for a guarantee that it will not cause any problem (I wont hold it against you if it breaks:)), but I would appreciate any informed opinion, on whether I should not have any downside in keeping that board (266746) with my 4302 model.
Thaks again
October 1st, 2009 at 9:13 pm
Just wanted to thank MrMark for the information regarding the new relay. I bought the part online for $1.57 and had it sent regular mail for about $2. My dad installed the new relay in about 10 minutes and my SHU5315 has been working fine ever since. Thanks so much for posting the info - I can’t beleive my Bosch headache is over (for now) for less than $5!
October 4th, 2009 at 8:38 pm
Wish I’d come across Mr. Mark’s response earlier since I ended up going down the same road and discovered the same result (but different relay manufacturer).
I’ve owned this Bosch dishwasher (SHU5315UC/U06) for 10 years and had the same problem a number of times – wash gets most of the way through the cycle and then stops almost at the end, doesn’t drain the final rinse. Other than this problem, we love the dishwasher, it’s silent and very efficient and the wife wasn’t happy about replacing it (not just a question of cost but the dishwasher actually does a decent job – when it works!).
For the first few times, I was able to fix it by applying a soldering iron to the relay pin that was sooty black (the recommended solution described in a number of forums on this problem) but after a while, it too failed to fix the problem. I ran all the diagnostic tests recommended for this model but it didn’t show up any problems.
On the verge of buying a replacement Controller Board ($135+S&H), I decided to try one more thing based on the following thought - if the current is so high that it would cause such arcing (the soot on the relay pin), wonder what else it might impact? Nothing ventured nothing gained, and since the fallback was to buy a replacement board anyway, I removed the relay from the board and decided to run a couple of tests. Once I found the relay spec, I discovered that it was a 12vdc relay rated to handle up to 10amps, DC or AC. In the unpowered position, it is closed between pins 1 and 4 and open between 1 and 3 (coil pins are 2 and 5). I applied 12vdc to the relay (using a car battery) and it seemed to work as it was supposed to – how disappointing.
Well, since I had already taken the relay off, I decided to go one step further – the destructive step. I cut the plastic shell off the relay and bingo – there it was. One side of the relay contact points contained so much soot, you could have started you own coal mine! Clean away the soot and the points look like the surface of the moon – so pitted that not even a miniature moon-buggy would have been able to traverse its surface. It’s a wonder that it wouldn’t work.
I’m not sure if the current through the relay in normal operating conditions is anywhere near the 11 amps the heater is supposed to draw (it makes sense that it would be since, after all, this is the heater relay) but if so, herein lies the problem.
The brilliant engineers at Bosch while designing a pretty decent dishwasher actually messed up on this component. They’ve used a relay that simply isn’t up to the job! Even though my tests showed that the relay still seemed to function in a simple power-on test, the only thing that makes sense to me is that since I wasn’t drawing a heavy enough current through the relay contact points, it would behave fine under low current conditions.
I ordered in a replacement from Mouser (www.mouser.com), part number: 769-JS1-12V, price $1.29 (+S&H). That’s right –One Dollar and Twenty-nine cents!!! And a dozen washes later, our beloved dishwasher is back from the dead and working consistently. Of course, as most of you realize, this just fixes the problem for a while since, even if this is the relay originally recommended by Bosch, it’s not the right relay for the job. I ordered in a couple of spare relays – if I can keep the dishwasher going for another ten years, we’ve got more than our money’s worth. Wish I could find a higher rated relay with the same footprint that will be the proper permanent fix - anybody got any suggestions?
One further recommendation – if you put a heat sink on the relay pin on the Controller Board that usually soots right up, it will likely increase the life of this fix. I couldn’t find a commercial heat sink to fit the job, so I made my own. I did this by (a) taking a piece of standard plumbing ½” copper pipe, (b) cut off a 1/2 inch length, (c) cut it along its length and flattened it, and (d) trimmed it to approx. ½” by ½”. I bent it to right angle along one length (this is necessary since, once installed, it needs to not interfere with the plastic enclosure that surrounds the Board).
Examine the Board very carefully and you will find that there are two other pins in line with the (sooty) relay pin directly connected to it through the Board’s printed circuit. Check with an ohm meter and ensure you have the right two pin – as with anything else in electronics, doing it wrong could be disastrous. Solder the heat sink to all three pins, the idea being that it not only acts as a heat sink but a larger electrical conduit for this heavy current. Build the solder up in a blob to the height of the pins, especially the relay pin, to maximize the surface area of contact for current flow.
Warning: Do not attempt this fix unless you understand exactly what you are doing. This is not a time to be learning on the job, considering the potential for disaster. You have been warned!
October 5th, 2009 at 12:24 am
Folks,
Searching on mouser.com (http://budurl.com/pabt) as suggested by Tinkerer in today’s post, I found that there are two versions of the 769-JS1-12V relay. I found the 769-JS1-12V-F, which looks quite like the 769-JS1-12V, for $0.47 at Future Electronics (http://budurl.com/yj6c).
Does anyone know what the difference between the two might be? If they’re interchangeable, you could buy three of them for a couple of pennies more than just one, and keep some as spares. Then again, for a buck-twenty-nine, you can replace it with exactly the (clearly insufficient) part that Bosch specified.
October 5th, 2009 at 12:40 am
Update: Forget about Future Electronics: their cheapest shipping option is $2.00 more than Mouser’s, so unless you’re buying a crateful of these things, it’s not worth it. Sorry to have wasted your time.
I’ve ordered a relay from Mouser, and I’m off to see about building a heat sink per Tinkerer’s instructions.
October 5th, 2009 at 5:58 pm
Just one more tip and a clarification: Lightly sand or wire-brush the copper surface that will be next to the pins until its shiny, and immediately coat it lightly with solder flux/paste before it oxidizes (this will help the molten solder flow easily and attach to the copper).
When bending the copper plate into shape, bend it into an L shape with each side the same width as the other. Since each side will then be a 1/4″, there’s no chance of it touching the plastic enclosure or shorting with anything on the Board.
October 5th, 2009 at 7:20 pm
bosch dishwasher cycles run forever what part is responsible .
model no shx46a05uc.
October 16th, 2009 at 5:57 am
I have Bosch dishwasher Model 5300. I get code 4 after running the diagnostic test which is the f1 level switch but I can not find any information on how this switch is installed. Do I need a service man to install?
October 17th, 2009 at 10:41 pm
mrmark can you please send me your e-mail address
October 18th, 2009 at 4:03 am
To all who have reviewed or tried my relay replacement suggestion, your welcome. Tinkerer, good that you went down the path as well, but let me point a few things out about what you’ve done, and what your planning to do.
First, the better solution is to use a higher rated relay, which can easily be purchased from Digi-Key. I checked sources like Mouser and ALL Electronics, but none had the amp rating. Both had the 10 amp rating, and that just won’t cut-it. I will expect your relay to fail again in a few years, further complicated by the board being further damaged. Because - the heat is generated as the contact points begin to fail after years of use. A heat sink will not solve the problem, even if you could get it to fit onto the board safely. And the heat sink cause a fire hazard as well. Best not do that, as insurance companies can deny claims when (and please don’t take me wrong here) “shade tree” repairs are made.
My suggestion comes from years of being involved with machine and appliance design Engineering and repair. Not only have I designed this type of equipment, I have repaired it as well.
This isn’t meant to be negative toward your efforts, but just a suggestion to put the right part in, and you won’t expose yourself or others to possible risk, or future failures of the appliance.
For those wanting to get in contact with me directly, stewartswitch at yahoo.com will get me. I don’t check this account everyday, but I do check it, and will do so more frequently for awhile after this posting.
October 28th, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Trying this post….just typed out a long post and it didn’t apparently go through.
October 28th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
I had the same problem (see henri posts up the list). I tried several times to post a question without success with various sizes and it never worked.
Then I typed one more test directly in the page and it worked ?
October 28th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
OK - now that THAT worked…here goes again.
Major props to all who have contributed to this thread. It’s got great information. So - two days ago my 9-year old SHU 5312 came up with the dreaded “2H” virus. A quick scan of internet lead me here and the decision to get a new Control Module (CM) from above. It arrived this morning and was installed this afternoon in 20min or so. The problem now is that its doing the same thing. I can get a cycle to come up and count down, but nothing but spinning motor sound from DW. Cycling the “Delay Start Hours” button to zero comes back with “2H” (again). Some further digging around lead me to a wonderful Bosch troubleshooting manual from this site’s dishwasher repair forum which, after running diagnostic test on DW returned an error code of “4″ (If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed.).
So - do I need a new water level switch? Can this new CM make my old water level switch work? (Is a new water switch what I needed all along?)
I’m handy enough to change out the CM in pretty short order but I don’t own nor do I have experience with a soldering iron or multimeter.
I’m hopeful for some continued great information from this discussion.
October 28th, 2009 at 9:53 pm
critt001 -
Nice/bad thing about these boards is they tell you what to look at, not if the part is bad.
Example - My pump sometimes seizes with trash from the dirty dishes. Manual instructs to replace the pump, which had been done once under warranty. The next time it happened, I got my fingers into the impeller from the top and found it wouldn’t turn. Taking a chance, I got a socket on the impeller nut and turned the impeller, breaking it free of the piece of trash.
Moral of the story is, if I had followed the manual, or had followed the code the control board gave me, I would have replaced the pump every time, when all it was, was a piece of trash.
With that Aesop’s tale, I would suggest removal of the switch and make sure nothing has caused a similar problem as I had found with the pump (although for no more than the switch costs, have one on hand in the event the existing one is bad.).
October 29th, 2009 at 12:06 am
Thanks MrMark,
After rolling the sleeves up and doing more investigation: I disconnected the water supply and found no debris there, then ran some water through the unconnected supply line without issue, then I pulled the DW out from under the counter and removed the left panel to see the switch guts. Turning the power back on and running the diagnostic again, I could effect change in the switch manually (raise/lower control rod = different sound in motor). I still got the #4 error (no water = no fill), but I had a bit of hope. I put the panel back on, pushed the unit back under the counter and reconnected the supply line. I ran the diagnostic (again) and this time, it sounded different - like the drain cycle followed by water fill. So the “4″ changed to “0″ (no faults) - but as the minutes ticked by and there was no change, I found on the troubleshooting pdf that in addition to no faults, “0″ can mean a failure of the flow switch to open…hmph… I stopped the diagnostic and opened the DW - detergent door had slid open - and steam was coming out. So I took a chance and just started the DW in a regular cycle (no diag)…we’re 18min into the cycle with 59 (and counting) to go…so I’m keeping my fingers crossed. Any thoughts? Anyone? Thanks -and I’ll update with more.
October 29th, 2009 at 12:18 am
critt001 -
Did you look inside the water connection on the dishwasher side? Sometimes there is a screen there that clogs with stuff out of the water line (this is especially true if you have old water lines in your house or in the area.). Have you had problems with any other water appliances?
Disconnecting, then reconnecting the water supply line as you did, plus shifting and bouncing the unit around can be enough to temporarily dislodge anything that may have clogged the inlet filter.
You could also have a problem with the fill solenoid not energizing allowing water to flow into the unit (I don’t recall if the flow switch measures incoming water supply or pump supply, or both.). The solenoid could be bad, intermittent, or wire loose (unlikely).
Let us know what you find, cause although it’s working now, you don’t know that it’s fixed until you can find out why is broke.
October 29th, 2009 at 12:57 am
MrMark:
The water lines didn’t look too cruddy - I do have hard-ish water (from a well) but have had no other issues with any water appliance lately (knock on wood). There’s 15min to go on the wash cycle and so-far-so-good (again, knock wood). I’m planning on running another load through it tonight for good measure and going from there. I understand your thoughts as far as not knowing it’s fixed until I know why it broke. I would have to approach any further digging with a bit of trepidation. I don’t think I have the appropriate knowledge to head back into the left side of the unit with a multimeter and check solenoids and switches (especially not without some spare parts in hand to swap out). We’ll see. Nagging question: Did I really need to get the new Control Module? Maybe I don’t want to know - still cheaper than a new unit or a service tech visit.
Thanks for the thoughts.
November 2nd, 2009 at 7:16 pm
We would like to thank everyone at the appliancejournal.com for such a great website. We had the same problem many people are having , it stayed on forever. Our dishwasher is a 6802 Bosch. We especially would like to Thank MrMark for all the information he gave. We ordered the heater relay from DigiKey and it arrived in two days. We did the repair and the machine is working better than before.
Our control module was less then a year old and I did not want to buy a new module or dishwasher. Thank you again.
Lena
November 2nd, 2009 at 11:38 pm
I have a SHX46UC02- burnt out solder spot on circuit board. This is a late 2006 build- that’s 7+ years of this Bosch relay fiasco!!! MrMark, I will contact you to do your fix since I know my resolder will fail again. Hey- someone should recycle all the replaced boards by replacing the relays with 12amp ones. There’s lots of takers out there for these aftermarket rebuilds - pimp my Bosch!!
November 4th, 2009 at 9:09 am
thanks again. As with many appliance problems, misery loves company. Your professionals are accurate, up to date and do an effective job researching and summarizing our needs. thanks for the help.. AV Seattle
November 10th, 2009 at 11:40 pm
I have an Bosch SHU6805UC/U06 and I think the circuit board has gone bad. It hasn’t worked for a year and when my husband started it out of the blue today because the DW smelled, it started on fire. We are not part of the recall. Can we order a circuit board somewhere?
November 27th, 2009 at 5:25 pm
Two years for me, and this thread still continues to serve… I’ve got the machine apart again today to replace that infamous under-rated relay, as the machine has been up to its old tricks again since the Spring (yes, I’m _that_ lazy).
As soon as I got the door apart today, my 12 year-old son noticed that the plastic sheet between the wire harness and the inner door panel insulation was warped and melted. I posted a picture (http://url.ie/2zgc) that shows how hot those wires must be getting. It makes me nervous. Anybody got a clue as to whether this is dangerous, or just further evidence of Bosch’s corner-cutting on this product?
Incidentally, I bought a relay from Mouser Electronics, as recommended above, even though it’s under-rated for the amount of current it has to carry. I’ll report results if and after I get it installed.
BTW, If you buy parts from Mouser, you’ll start getting their phone-book-sized catalogs in the mail: i don’t know how they stay in business, selling $1.29 parts and then sending catalogs that _must_ cost more than that!
Dave (Since 2007-09-23)
November 28th, 2009 at 12:05 am
Dave,
Looked at that picture, it’s one of two things, and I would be concerned with any.
First, if the wires are getting hot enough to cause that much damage to the shield, what do the wires look like? Wire insulation is made of pretty much the same stuff as the shield and in order to cause that much damage, the insulation would have had to burn off the conductor.
Second, it could be chemical attack, totally unrelated to how much current is being drawn.
In defense of Bosch, wire sizing and board design are reviewed by U/L, CSA, ETA, and other listing organizations that the manufacturer may choose. Having dealt with U/L and CSA before, I am suspect of the nature of the cause of your burned wires when that much of the wire has apparently “burned”. Burned insulation is common place on high current wires that have crimped ends, and the crimp was not adequate (you see this all the time in heating and air conditioning equipment.).
I would suggest the following -
1) Order a new wire harness for that section of wiring. Am pretty sure you can get it from Sears Parts. Don’t splice it, because when you get the new harness, compare the writing on the wire insulation between the new and the old harness. If the new harness wire gauge is larger (which is a smaller number than the original, like 12 ga or 10 ga, etc.), then stop and drop everything, and contact Bosch warranty services. Tell them what you have found, and you see this as a liability that they probably don’t want. If they choose not to escalate, then find a way to contact Bosch legal department, by email. Take the picture you posted, and additional pictures of the condition of the wiring, and attach to the email. Explain what you have found, and you feel that the safety of you, your family, and friends may be at risk. State that it appears they have manufactured a unit which appears to have been manufactured improperly, or that you were not notified of any recalls or factory modifications to prevent this type of damage.
2) DON”T USE THE MOUSER RELAY!!!. I looked at Mouser, and could not find a suitable replacement! Use the Digi-Key part I recommended and you shouldn’t have any further trouble with the control board. Anything I found from Mouser either would not fit, or did not have the required current rating (as you mentioned.). An undersized relay could further compromise the board so that it could not be repaired again in the future.
Finally, it is very unlikely that the improperly sized relay or failed wiring as you have found would cause a fire unless the unit is improperly wired to a fuse or breaker, or you have high levels of volatiles in the room. What will happen when the conductor inside of the insulation burns through the insulation, it will likely go to ground, thereby tripping the breaker or blowing the fuse. All the wiring is trapped inside the metal casing of the dishwasher, and there should not be anything inside that will burn should there be sparks or wires hot enough to cause ignition of other materials (think about it, if you have electric heat, electric water heater, or electric cook top, the burner get’s so much hotter that those wires inside the dishwasher have gotten.
December 3rd, 2009 at 6:49 pm
For all who have this problem, or think you have a board problem, I just realized I missed one important detail (having it just happening to me.).
Make certain that the drain from the dishwasher is clear and unrestricted to the sewer line. That means checking the port on the garbage disposal to make sure it’s not clogged (if that is where your dishwasher drains to.).
If the dishwasher doesn’t drain, then it continues to run and heat the water until all the water is pumped out. Didn’t think I had a problem until one day the dishwasher kept running, but water was HOT. Later when the Mrs was washing out some pans and things, the dishwasher had stopped because the drain eventually took all the water. Thinking about it later, I thought it interesting that the sink didn’t fill with water, but the dishwasher pump probably only has enough head capability to push water about 5 feet high (or 11 psi or so.).
Friend of mine also said he has had the port on the disposal to plug up.
Let me stress though, the relay issue is real as evidenced by the burned spot on the circuit board. I just thought the above would be good for all to know too.
December 5th, 2009 at 1:25 am
The relay problem is real alright. One way to narrow down if you have a clog or a circuitboard issue is to check if the unit will drain normal in the cancel/drain mode (on mine you push 2 buttons simultaneously). If it drains in less than a couple of minutes and your water is not nice and steamy, inspect the circuitboard for solder connection burned spot.
http://www.squidoo.com/Bosch_Dishwasher_Drainage_Problem_Fixes
MrMark thanks for your updates. I would like to do your relay swap as you suggested on earlier posts, but mine is not a 12vdc, but 6vdc- 10amp. I found 12amp 6vdc replacement at DigiKey. Any suggestions?
December 5th, 2009 at 7:45 am
SBK101 - Interesting about it being a 6 VDC coil. Try to find specs on the original relay, either in terms of coil resistance, holding or inrush current. Choose a new relay whose resistance is the same or slightly higher, or whose holding and inrush currents are near the same or slightly lower. I don’t recall the driver chip that was used, probably a ULN2803, which should be able to tolerate some increase in current. But try to check it out to be sure. Higher coil resistance should equate to lower inrush or holding currents, which keeps you from having other problems with 2803. You can follow the traces on the circuit board to find the driver chip (it could just be a single transistor). Read the numbers, look up it’s ratings, and you have your answer as to what replacement relay to use.
December 5th, 2009 at 8:45 pm
Thanks for your reply. When I had the circuitboard out I took pictures of it on both sides. The writing on the relay is quite visible (and so is the burnt solder spot). When I ordered replacement relay I matched all the numbers except coil rating- I went highter to the 12 amp one. I did not trace the driver chip though. I emailed the pics and stuff to your earlier provided address. Right now DW is working with original relay resoldered in place. I want to have my new one ready to go when old one goes out again. I have spec sheets from manufacturer for both and as it looks everything matches-except coil amp rating. I will post PDF files for both if you could look and compare. You are much more of an expert than me.
old relay: Song Chuan 899-1C-F-C 6V-DC
http://www.songchuan.com.cn/db/pictures/AdminModules/PDT/PDT090410001/20098292052829760.pdf
replacement relay: Tyco T7CS5D-06
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/T7C_DS.pdf
December 8th, 2009 at 5:57 am
Hi, this forum has helped me try to diagnose so far, but i am still having issues with my 10+ year old SHU5312 dishwasher.
About 1 year ago, I found the arced pin on the circuit board, and resoldered the relay back to the board. That fixed the endless cycle problem… but it only lasted about 1 year. Now the problem seems like it returned, so I disassembled the module again, and noticed that all pins checked out continuity-wise. I removed the 10A relay from the board, and measured the coil resistance to be approx 295ohms. From the datasheet i believe it should be 400ohms. Anyway, I hooked up 12V to the relay and it clicked over, indicating that it works. I am still unsure if the relay is fully functioning or not.
I resoldered the relay back to the board, and hooked everything back up. I restarted a normal wash. At first it appeared to be fixed, but then hung up at 26 mins to finish. I canceled the cycle by pressing both scrub wash and delicate/econo, and just as it went to CL, it proceeded to report F.
I did some searching and found a test procedure, and now when i run the test, error code 4 comes up, indicating a fill error.
Does this problem still sound like a faulty control module? or could there now all of a sudden be a new problem with the fill components?
December 8th, 2009 at 2:13 pm
Isktarum,
The failure of the relay will not be where it has a burned out coil, so coil resistance is probably OK (I assume you are looking a the exact data sheet for the relay that you have. These little cube relays have a range of resistances for the coils for a given voltage.). Plus you confirmed the coil good by testing with a power source off the board.
Next, the failure of the relay is the contacts become heavily oxidized and intermittent. But only the Normally Open contact. The Normally Closed contact is not used on my board. Based on that, I was replace the relay.
But not before determining the reason for the current failure. If your looking at the repair document that I think you are, then between it and the board, you are getting an indication of where to look. But keep in mind, I thought I had the same problem as you, washer would not drain with an indication of bad water flow switch, and it ended up being the bad relay. The problem we have with all this is we don’t have a flow diagram for the micro-controller chip on the board, so some indicators of failure can be misleading.
December 9th, 2009 at 4:18 pm
MrMark,
Thanks for the quick reply. I ended up buying a new relay with the same specs at a local electric parts supply shop and tested the coil resistance on the new part to be 395 ohms (close to the 400 that the datasheet shows). I changed the relay on the board with this new one to be sure, as well as cleaned up the solder on many other pins on the board as I could see some cracking of the solder on some pins.
After reassesmbling back into the dishwasher, I get the same error code come up. Shortly after powering on, the LCD shows “F”. If i run the diagnostic test, it comes up with error “4″. Both of these indicate a “fill error”.
I agree with you that this may still be an issue with the electronic control module; but I am unsure where to look next. The dishwasher drains water no problem, but it doesn’t seem to fill. It could be the fill solenoid, or the ECM still. The machine also doesn’t seem to “stop draining”, as in, once I power it on, the drain impeller turns and empties any water i’d put in, and it doesn’t stop.
Any advice on where to look next before I decide to call a repair tech in to take a look? or before I go ahead and order a new ECM board?
Also, I’m not sure what repair document you’re referring to. I don’t actually have one. if you have a link handy, I’d appreciated you posting/sending it.
Thanks.
December 9th, 2009 at 4:23 pm
By the way, here’s the datasheet of the new relay I put on my board:
http://www.sanyourelay.ca/public/products/pdf/SRD.pdf
p/n: SRD-S-112D
December 9th, 2009 at 8:53 pm
Isktarum,
We may have a similar issue causing the Code 4. On my SHU5315 DW I replaced the control module with a burnt heater relay solder joint about a year ago. Recently the DW started acting up again with a Code 4, and I put in another new control module. I still get a Code 4.
The water level sensor swwitch is working as it should, and the resistances at the control module harness check out within spec for all the components.
With the Code 4 the DW continues to fill until overfilled when the float switch activates, which shuts off the fill valve and drains the level down until the float switch opens and the DW goes into a 2-second fill/drain cycle.
The DW is acting as though the control module is not reacting to the closed circuit at the water level sensor and continues to provide power to the solenoid on the fill valve. But how likely is it that two new boards would be bad?
Another guy on one of these blogs, “Prop,” had a SHU5315 with a Code 4 problem. He replaced the fill valve, the water level sensor, and the control module, and still got a Code 4!
December 9th, 2009 at 9:57 pm
Isktarum,
From the service guide, from Bosch - “If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed.” (pay close attention to that last part.).
That sounds like what you described and, I noted in one of your replies that you have to put water in the DW, that it doesn’t want to fill. And, you hear the water solenoid energize.
THis leads me to believe either the water level switch has a problem, or like the water valve is either 1)clogged, 2)has what is known in the business as an “LPS in it” problem, or 3)water flow from the water supply is limited for some reason (although limited would only take longer to fill.).
I guess I am confused of the DW’s actions when left to fill water on it’s own, and what happens when you manually put water in it.
None of the mechanical issues with the water valve are controller board problems, and I doubt you have a bad board because you hear the water valve energize.
Let me know what you find. Take a look at that Troubleshooting link I posted previously and run the diagnostics.
December 9th, 2009 at 11:24 pm
Thanks again for the quick replies. I don’t actually hear the water fill solenoid energize (not sure what it sounds like), but I do hear the drain impeller turning continuously.
I am not convinced that water is continuously filling and draining, but rather I think the draining process just doesn’t stop. The dishwasher never proceeds to start the fill sequence.
I will confirm this when I get home tonight, but I’m fairly certain no new water is entering the dishwasher since the copper pipe connected to the intake remains cold even after running hot water through the tap. And yes, the valve that supplies the water to the dishwasher is fully open.
Nothing changed with the water supply, so I am thinking it is possible it has clogged all of a sudden with calcium deposits (we have moderately hard water), or something is up with the fill solenoid. I still wonder though, if there is a problem electrically related to the ECM and the wiring (maybe connectors)
December 9th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
Isktarum,
I’m staking my money on the fill valve being clogged, although the pump should not be running when the water valve is open. And you say the water supply line stays cold even though you know there is hot water at the sink. Good evidence the water valve is either clogged, or not opening due to the coil being bad (although I think you say you’ve checked that.).
I can’t remember if the valve has an inlet screen on it or not. Precipitated solids clogged in the screen could sure be the problem.
December 10th, 2009 at 2:46 am
Hi. Found this on Appliancepartspro repair forum.
Hope it helps!
“I would check the water flow valve–There is a screen that could be clogged. If you did want to clean it, then a replacement is around $ 23.95
Goodluck!
Kara
See link:written by Todd below
Bosch 2042 (and others?) fill valve tip - Appliance Blog Repair Forums
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 Bosch 2042 (and others?) fill valve tip
I have a Bosch 2042 that was in the house we bought 8 years ago. I like it even though it’s a little small. About 2-3 years ago, the dishes weren’t getting clean and I traced the problem to a faulty fill valve. This model is a timed fill only so, if the water flow is restricted, there won’t be enough water coming in during the 1 minute fill cycle to adequately clean the dishes. The same symptom occured a few weeks ago and I ordered another fill valve. After removing the water line, I saw that the inlet strainer was clogged with a lot of debris (don’t know from where). Anyhow, I suspected that the fill valve was not bad after all. But, since I was in this far and had the replacement part, I went ahead and swapped it out. Now, I proceeded to dismantle the old valve to see how it works and discovered that the inlet strainer can indeed be removed! It takes some very gentle prying with a small screwdriver and patience. Once out, I was able to clean the gunk off. I reassemble the valve and will try it out should the symptom re-appear in the future.
Anyway, I wanted to pass this along because I noticed this same situation (clogged strainer) in my original repair job. I remember trying to get the strainer out but gave up. Perhaps this time around I was braver since I had a new one in hand. Maybe I could have saved some money in the first place. If you have a similar model and the tub ins’t filling, 1) it’s probably the fill valve and 2) may be just a clogged strainer on the inlet of the valve.”
December 10th, 2009 at 2:56 am
I agree with the clogged inlet strainer.
It happens, and can make what appears to be a control problem, not a be a control problem.
We sometimes want to blame that which is not always blameless.
December 14th, 2009 at 7:54 pm
For those who don’t want to make the repairs themselves, I have decided that I will repair your board and test for a nominal charge. Please email me at mark.egan at tx.rr.com for specific details. I will turn the board around promptly after receipt, repair, and test.
December 15th, 2009 at 2:29 pm
An alternate email address that you can contact me is BoschRepair at tx.rr.com (replace ” at ” with “@” so the address is all one long address. I do this to prevent spam.).
Or you can reply here, and I’ll get back with you through the above address.
December 20th, 2009 at 4:17 am
Hi all, thanks for the replies. I haven’t been able to check anything, as I wasn’t home for about 10 days. However, today when I got home, just for the heck of it, I thought I’d power the dw on, and what do you know, I can hear the water starting to fill…
The “F” error on the display disappeared and the dw continued and completed a cycle to finally display the magic CL.
Now…what I am wondering is was the water level switch or float switch stuck and somehow released within the ten days of no use? I am hesitant to be happy that the problem resolved itself, since it could really come back the next time I power the dw on. I have no idea what caused the problem and how it just started working again…
Interested in your thoughts…
December 20th, 2009 at 4:08 pm
Isktarum,
The boards require a 15 minute period of no activity to reset from a previous error code.
Tim on this board is sending me one of his boards (he has 3), after we have dialoged back and forth on a very similar problem. I hope to have Wednesday, and hope to be able to provide some analysis by Friday.
email me offline at mark.egan at tx.rr.com and we can discuss further.
December 27th, 2009 at 1:43 am
I have the dreaded “2H” issue others have reported but mine is a bit different. A housesitter accidentally used dish liquid (not dishwasher liquid). The suds triggered the “2H” initially but the machine did at least cycle initially. Then I vacuumed out all the water and ran a test cycle and got a “0.” Assumed all was OK and then ran a “econ” cycle but that ran for over 3 hours (began with a 2H) before I stopped the d/w because I smelled that particular “burnt motor” smell. At the time I stopped the d/w by opening the door I noticed there was no water in the d/w and just a motor turning sound as the door opened. 24 hours later, if I press any cycle button I get a 2h signal but nothing happens. I just hear a low level hum but no water is coming in. After a few minutes I just shut off the machine. In the meantime, I’ve orederd a new control module but now am worried that maybe the motor burnt itself out. Any suggestions?
December 30th, 2009 at 6:57 pm
I have a Bosch diswasher model SHE46C06UC/36 about 3 years old, love it but….. this week it is washing as normal, the display counts down goes to a small number like 10 or so then increases to 60 and cycles back several times. I have read about the dreaded over current design relay and self test. I can not find the self test procedure on this website. can anyone post it????
Thank you
January 17th, 2010 at 8:35 pm
Just wanted to comment on my own experience with a bocsh dishwasher that had many of these symptoms. All problems were solved by a thorough dismantling and cleaning of the various hoses and orifices. Lots of clogged lines. It runs like new now
January 30th, 2010 at 8:03 pm
Hello,
We have a Bosch SHU5315UC, probably 8 years old. LOVE the machine, but… suddenly the front panel buttons that select the cycle aren’t depressing properly, and don’t start the machine. We’re down to only Economy as of now. Is this something that would be fixed by replacing the infamous Control Module?
Thanks!
January 30th, 2010 at 11:07 pm
Marie V, the control module sits in a white plastic case which mounts to the upper part of the front cover (see image at top of this forum). The plastic becomes quite brittle over the years, especially with the constant heating and cooling of the machine. Likely what has happened is the tabs that extend out to interface between the buttons you push on the front, and the actual electronic pushbuttons on the module have broken.
You will likely need to buy a new plastic case (which I think you can buy separate from the module for around $30). But take the front panel off and have a look for yourself to confirm that this is the issue. if so, it should be pretty easy to replace.
February 2nd, 2010 at 3:48 am
So, silly question — what kind of screwdriver, and what size, will work on these screws to remove the panel(s)? Thanks!
February 2nd, 2010 at 7:04 pm
Can anyone tell me for sure if a Torx T20 driver will do for taking the panel off a bosch SHU5315? Thanks.
February 4th, 2010 at 7:01 pm
To sbk101 and MrMark.
I have SHE44C with burn out relay. The old relay is Song Chuan 899-1C-F-C 6V-DC and I can’t find it. What can I use instead?
sbk101, did you try Tyco T7CS5D-06? With what result?
February 4th, 2010 at 7:17 pm
mrproza,
Use the Tyco relay, which should be available from Digi-Key. Don’t worry with the Song Chuan. The Tyco is physically and electrically equivalent with a 12 amp rating.
February 4th, 2010 at 9:12 pm
mrproza,
I have the tyco relay sitting at home waiting to be installed once the solder repair I did Nov 09 burns out again. I asked the same question before if this tyco relay would work, but never got a definite answer until MrMark’s reply to your post. I researched all the places I could to find a replacement relay with a 12amp rating and the tyco seemed to be the only one. It even has the higher UL rating. I ordered from Dgikey and they also agreed that this would be the replacement.
Repair Question? Post it in the Forum
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