Bosch Dishwasher Control Module (266746)

This is the most commonly used Bosch control module. There have been a few changes made but it will still work on the older dishwasher models (see list below for all of the models this control module will work on). Some of the indicator lights might have a plastic covering over them. If so, you just have to remove it.

bosch control module

This control module will fit most Bosch dishwashers. Made by Bosch. Part Number: 266746.

The following model numbers use this control module:

  • GM915-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
  • GM915-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
  • GM915-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • GM926-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
  • GM926-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
  • GM926-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHI4302 UC/06 -FD8002
  • SHI4302 UC/11 -FD8003
  • SHI4302 UC/12
  • SHI4306 UC/06 -FD8002
  • SHI4306 UC/11 -FD8003
  • SHI4306 UC/12
  • SHI6802 UC/06
  • SHI6802 UC/11
  • SHI6802 UC/12
  • SHI6805 UC/06
  • SHI6805 UC/11
  • SHI6805 UC/12
  • SHI6806 UC/06
  • SHI6806 UC/11
  • SHI6806 UC/12
  • SHU4302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU4302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU4306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4312 UC/06 (FD 7701-7912)
  • SHU4312 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4312 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4316 UC/06
  • SHU4316 UC/11
  • SHU4316 UC/12
  • SHU5302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5304 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5304 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5304 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5305 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5305 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5305 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5307 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5312 GB/08
  • SHU5312 UC/06
  • SHU5312 UC/11
  • SHU5312 UC/12
  • SHU5314 UC/06
  • SHU5314 UC/11
  • SHU5314 UC/12
  • SHU5315 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5315 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5315 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5316 GB/08
  • SHU5316 UC/06
  • SHU5316 UC/11
  • SHU5316 UC/12
  • SHU5317 UC/12
  • SHU6802 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6802 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6802 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU6805 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6805 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6805 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU6806 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6806 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6806 UC/12 (FD 8003-)


69 Responses to “Bosch Dishwasher Control Module (266746)”

  1. Tom says:

    I have a Bosch Dishwasher model SHU5314 UC/06 and the timer does not count down as usual. It stays at a very high minute count and I notice that the water temperature is not getting hot as it did before. I’m wondering if the probklem is a defective control module or heater assembly or thermistor.

  2. Tom says:

    Any help is appreciated.

  3. appliancejournal says:

    Hi Tom,

    This is a somewhat common problem with Bosch dishwashers (not that a Bosch dishwasher is not reliable, it’s probably one of the better ones out there). Usually, the timer would get stuck on 2 minutes, but really it could get stuck on any point. The cause of the problem is usually this module, which you can order through the link above. Replacing the module is pretty easy, make sure to disconnect the power to the dishwasher first (unplug it).

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for stopping by.


  4. David says:

    I have a 4300 model 4306uc/u06 it is the same board w/0 led numbers will this work?

  5. appliancejournal says:

    Yes, this Bosch dishwasher board is good for the 4306 uc 06 model as well.

  6. Martin Steinhorn says:

    Have a 5305 dishwasher we only use about twice a week (only 2 of us in the house) and the second control module in now going bad after 7 1/2 years.
    Piece of junk, at least the module is.

  7. Raj says:

    Having trouble with the dishwasher.

    Water is not coming in @ all.

    I check the water line and it seem to be fine.
    SO is the control module ( ran test).

    does this mean water valve is bad?

    where can i refer for internal assembly pictures…?
    any help is appreciated.

  8. appliancejournal says:

    Raj, you can view internal components (diagrams and photos) by entering your dishwasher model number at the top of this page (under Find Appliance Parts), or post your model number here and I’ll get you a direct link.

    What happens when you turn the dishwasher on? Any sound at all from the motor or anything else?

    You always want to start from the basics, so if you haven’t already, make sure the dishwasher water shut off valve under the sink is open and functioning properly.

    Post back as much details as you can and we’ll try to help.

  9. Sandy says:

    Hi, I have a bosch SHU5302UC and the thing is stuck on 2H. I have to time our loads for 45 minutes and then clear it out so I can hit the rinse and hold button to get them clean. I called Bosch and they told me if its 2H that there something wrong and I should call a service person. Duh, that’s why I called them. They were no help whatsoever. So I’m hoping you can help. Is this also the control module as my water/dishes don’t seem to be screaming hot like they use to be. Help!

  10. appliancejournal says:

    Hi Sandy, welcome!

    Bosch customer support will probably never tell you exactly what’s causing a problem with your Bosch appliance. Has to do with legal issues, plus they probably want to make a few bucks off the service call.

    Well, in this capacity we are certainly not like Bosch customer support :)

    Yes, I’m pretty certain that the cause of the problem is a faulty control module and the one at the top of the page is the right one for your model. You can get it from AppliancePartsPros by clicking on the module photo. I think they have it on sale.

    If you need help with replacement, post another comment and we’ll provide instructions.

    Thanks for visiting,


  11. Jim says:

    my bosch SHU 6805UC/U12 is doing the same thing.. hanging at 1 and not finishing. I do a manual clear. I am about to start the testing but is there a place to get directions on how to remove the module ? I have learned it is quicker to ask than repair:) thanks


  12. appliancejournal says:


    What kind of testing were you planning on doing? What you are describing sounds very much like the faulty module problem.

    Get the module from AppliancePartsPros using the link above. Their prices are better and you should get your module within a day or two.

    As far as how to replace the old module… We’re working on a post that will have complete step by step instructions that will tell you how to remove the old module and replace it with the new one. I will leave a comment here on this page as soon as that post is ready. Should be just a couple of days.


  13. Sandy says:

    Me again, I have the Bosch SHU5302UC & the darn thing was hanging up on the 1 & also not heating. Well we ordered the ctrl module that AJ recommended. We looked at doing the work ourself but when we saw the installation would be a little tricky we ended up calling a Bosch service repair dude. He put it in & said we should be set. Works great and it only cost $75 for the installation – yeah!!! So under $200 and we’re good to go. Thanks so much for your help AJ.

  14. appliancejournal says:

    That’s great, Sandy :)

    Thank you for keeping us updated.


  15. JA says:

    I tried to install the 266746 control panel with a replacement, but could not figure out how to get the old one out. There must be a simple solution, but I spent an hour or more trying to figure this out, ultimately closing it back up with the old one still intact. Any step by step instructions available? Thanks!

  16. Patrick Barry says:

    I just ordered this control board from you because ours is on the fritz, again. We’ve soldered one, gotten one used on ebay and bought a whole used dishwasher (only $100!) just to keep ours running, and every time it has been the control board. So my question is, if Bosch has indeed redesigned the cover and indicator lights, as stated on the AppliancePartsPros site, have they also toughened up the board so that it doesn’t fail so often? I mean, gee whiz, this problem has been going on for years. Is it that expensive to redesign a basic control board?

    Sign me “tired of three-hour wash cycles”

  17. Patrick Barry says:

    We got the new control board and found out that it HAS been re-engineered in several ways. With help from my son, an electrical engineering student, we learned that the board was redesigned for surface-mount components and that the two relays that have been the source of many problems (this is where the contacts melt) have been upgraded to a rating of 10 amps, rather than the 5 amps on the old board. My son says the company wouldn’t put in a bigger and more expensive component unless it was addressing a problem, so let’s hope this does the trick.

    We popped it in and have run the machine three times since then, always with the cycle running at the proper length, about 70 minutes for the delicate/economy cycle that we use.

    If this board lasts for the next 10 years or so then we’ll consider buying another Bosch, as we’ve always been impressed with how well it cleans and how quiet it is. But if the board fails, we’ll have to find someone else for our next dishwasher.

  18. appliancejournal says:

    Thanks for the update, Patrick! Let’s hope it doesn’t fail for a long time.

    Don’t forget about the warranty on the replacement board. If it fails within the first year, contact and they’ll send you a replacement free of charge.

  19. Glenn says:

    Any progress on the post re: how to replace a control unit? I’m trying to figure out if I want to attempt this or just call the service guys for a Bosch 6805 with what looks like a 2nd faulty control unit in 6 years.

  20. Patrick Barry says:

    Glenn, it isn’t very difficult to replace a control unit if you have basic mechanical skills. I’ve removed and replaced those control boards four times now. You need a torx driver to take the front door panel off (including some screws on the side), then you unhook all the wiring from the module (it fits only one way, so if you get the wires mixed up, just keep trying until you get them in the right slots). The module comes out by pushing on various plastic clips, and the new one pops right in. If there is a little jumper on the old board and not on your new one, move it over to the new board in the same position. Replace all the wires (including the green ground wire), put the door panel back on (making sure to position the white plastic wedges at the bottom just right, so that it holds in position), lightly screw in a few of the screws, make sure everything is lining up, and then tighten everything up.

    Our new control board continues to work fine after a few weeks in the machine. Dishes are clean and cycle times are back to normal.

  21. Dave says:

    I’d like to second Patrick’s comments: I’m not exactly a skilled service tech, but I was able to get the door taken apart (it _is_ annoying, but persistence and care will see you through) and the control module removed, resoldered, and reinstalled without destroying the machine or injuring myself :-).

    Can’t tell yet if the repair will hold.

  22. Dave Loch says:

    How do I know if it is the control module?

  23. appliancejournal says:

    Describe the problem, Dave.

  24. Glenn says:

    Well I chickened out and had the Bosch repair guy come and replace the control unit. It was about $80 above the cost of the board and saved me a day. This was my 2nd control module replacement in a 6 year old machine. Thanks to Dave and Patrick for responding.

  25. Dave says:

    This is Dave “Can’t tell if the repair will hold”: It did. The re-soldered control board is doing the job nicely.

    A hint for those of you who want to solder the damaged connector rather than buy a new one: take a small knife and gently scrape away from the solder point, removing some of the insulation from the circuit board, and revealing more of the copper traces to take the solder.

    I’m sure that helped my fix survive its first week, anyway.

  26. DeWayne A. Nelon says:

    I ordered the control module but it arrived with a broken plastic spring so I am reassembling the dishwasher but I cannot figure out were the plastic wedges go. They just “fell out” when I removed the face panel. Any tips?

  27. Patrick Barry says:

    If you mean the white wedges that are about an inch or two wide and have a slot in the middle, that slot will fit on the rail on each side of the door frame, just up from the bottom. You push the front panel against and around the wedges to line everything up; you’ll know you have it right if the screw holes line up. Does that make sense for your situation?

  28. Thanks for the quick tip. I will check on that in a bit. I don’t see a hole for a screw in the wedge but the rest of your description fits. I thought that they had come off the bottom.


  29. Patrick Barry says:

    That’s correct, there is no hole in the wedge for a screw, you just push it into place. The screws I was referring to are the ones that hold the door front panel to the door assembly. Once you have your wedges in place (at the bottom, as you remember) and push the panel onto them, all the screw holes should line up between the panel and the door itself. Good luck.

  30. Got it ad got the panels back on. What a hassle. It was not easy (at least for me!) to get the panel and the control cover (not sure what to call it) back on by myself. Good news I get o do it all again when the replacement part gets here. Thanks for all your advice.


  31. Steve says:

    I have a Bosch SHU6802 Dishwaher.
    I have just installed my new control board and I’m not getting any water in the dishwasher at all when I turn it on. The water in on under the sink and the motor is running. I removed the water line and the brass fitting and it seems to be clear. I did have a problem with the kitchen faucet when I turned the water on there was debris in the line that slowed the water to the faucet. I need to know if the problem could be the that the control board needs to be reset or something. I need help

  32. Steve says:

    Continued Bosch SHU6802
    I did a test on the control board and the first test was a “20” the second time for the test a “4”
    Any idea?

  33. appliancejournal says:

    Steve, please post the problem on the appliance repair forum and one of the techs will help.

  34. raymond says:

    I have a 10 year old Bosch SHU5315 which has had the original control module soldered for the 3rd time. Repair seems to last about 2 months. Hoping this is the last time, I scraped all the burnt gunk away from the relay pin–exposing some of the copper pcb and resoldered/also added a small piece of copper wire to act as a heatsink to the solder joint. My only concern is the new module board looks quite different from my old one and hope it works correctly should this repair fail again. Does anyone have a new one installed thats been in and working for a long time?

  35. I replaced mine back in October, it has worked fine ever since.

  36. Patrick Barry says:

    And I replaced ours in August 2007 with the redesigned board (10 amp relays, see Aug. 27 post above) and it has been working fine, with 70-minute economy cycles at least once per day. I’m satisfied . . . so far.

  37. David Lea says:

    I have a Bosch SMU4056UC/14. After raeding what others ahd to say, it looks like my contol module is also gone bad. I have had problems with my timing, as well as the machine not heating up. Will the new control modules work on my machine? Where can I find a control module and is it difficult to install in my type of machine?

  38. appliancejournal says:

    David, SMU4056UC14 does not have a module, instead it uses a timer and a selector switch. You can view breakdown diagrams and parts list, as well as order any part if needed, here:

    If you have a technical question, try the appliance repair forum:

    Hope this helps.

  39. David Lea says:

    Thanks for the information. since the washer has a timer and a selector switch and not a control module, what wopuld cause it to not heat and the timing be screwed up? Is it a ahrd fix or should I be shopping for a new dishwasher? Thanks.

  40. appliancejournal says:

    Sounds like maybe the selector switch is bad.

    If you have an ohmmeter, try this:

    Select any cycle other than “Rinse & Hold” and check for continuity across terminals 1 and 3 on the selector switch. Replace the selector switch if it’s open (no continuity).

    – How to check components for continuity

    – Replacement selector switch for SMU4056UC14

  41. Chris Doehlert says:

    Great site and help, thanks.

    I have an SHU5306 with the “2h” problem. Open the control box and indeed found one solder connection burned out that I will resolder with the help of a friend who’s expert in that.

    My concern is that there is an underlying cause and that it will just burn out again. Or that if I buy a new control module it will burn out as well because of whatever the underlying cause is.

    Any suggestions as to how to allay that concern?

  42. Patrick Barry says:

    Our experience was that the board would burn again, but in one case it lasted about a year before failing again. And we had a new board fail, too, because it was the same as the old one, but as I reported here on Aug 27, 2007, Bosch finally did a revision of the board and replaced the relay that was overheating with a beefier 10 amp unit, rather than 5 amp.

    I don’t know if that completely solves the problem, but ours is still working fine, and let me tell you, I quickly forgot about the $150 or whatever I spent for new module. It started working properly as soon as I installed it, and that was a great relief after getting myself worked up every night for months cancelling out the cycles to get the dishwasher to finish cleaning the dishes.

    So you could try soldering it, since you have that option, then replace it if you need to later, with a certain amount of confidence that it will work. Or just replace it now and forget about it.

  43. Chris Doehlert says:

    Patrick, thx for the encouragement.

    Resoldered the connection Saturday morning and everything is working fine so far. The 2h code disappeared after the full cycle ran successfully once.

    Here’s hoping it holds. I note with some curiosity that they upgraded to a 10A relay on a circuit that according to their own repair instructions draws 11 amps! Perhaps still undersized?

  44. Bill says:

    I’ve had this same problem a few times with my SHU5312. I think the board has been replaces two or maybe three times.

    Is there a diagram to show which wires go to the heater unit? The solder joints all look fine on the board, so what would be helpful to know which wires go to the heater so I can can check with an ohm meter and also watch to see if the relay ever turns on.

    The dishwasher is about ten years old and we use it about 3 or 4 times a week — normal household usage. So I’m wondering what if it’s time to start looking at new units.

  45. Chris Doehlert says:

    I couldn’t find a diagram, but it was pretty clear to me which wires were connected to the high current edge-of-board connector. I presumed that they were the ones carrying the heater current. It didn’t hurt that they were also in the region of the 10A relay. I remember the connector was just about the middle of the long side.

    Then it was clear in my case on visual inspection that one of the wires solder joint had failed.

    Good luck.

  46. Bill says:

    Here’s a few photos — photo of the board isn’t great, but maybe you can see the heater wires on the controller photo. These are all at hank dot org slash bosch_board.jpg and bosch_connections.jpg. (The board filtered the full urls when I posted yesterday).

  47. Chris Doehlert says:

    In my case, the one that had burned out was the bottom-most of the three that are all connected and below the “GV” in GV630

  48. steven says:

    Hi steve here, i have a Bosch SGV4313GB/17 and for sometime it has not been taking in water, goes through all the motions when i feed it with water from the tap/jug.
    Water is on because all i hear is the water clicking on and off, but not going through the system to wash. Would this be the regulator/level sensor or a blockage …. our water in our area is hard.
    I have looked at the exploded diagrams on the Bosch website and am quite mechanically minded.
    hope you can help regards

  49. Jacob says:

    I have a Bosch SHI6806uc/12 dishwasher and am attempting to replace the control board, part # 266746. How do you pop out the control board from the frame? I did not see any release mechanism to do so. Thank you.

  50. Holly says:

    Bought the SHE46C model aprx 7 years ago and two days after running it I noticed it ran far to long. Called customer service and they told me I must be using to much detergent therefore causing it to run & run trying to remove all the soap. Reduced the amount of soap and still it ran to long. Called again and they told me it was likely that my hot water heater was set to low. Frustrating to find that this is a common issue with the model and when it was new and I could have had it fixed or replaced for free they simply blew me off. It has only gotten worse running 5 hours if I don’t manually cancel the load and water getting pretty warm at beginning but cool at the end…imagine after running 5 hours the water cools down. I have let this go on way to long and its time to fix. Is there a step by step guide to replacing that module?

  51. Shad says:

    Sendo assim este é feito através da historia do paciente, da observação clínica
    e com socorro de testes especializados.

  52. Josh says:

    Thanks Mark for the soldering job. I purchased this board from Mark on July 30, 2013. My dishwasher kept getting stuck on a cycle and never finishing. He fixed it and I have not had a problem since.

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  56. Tom says:

    Hi .. I have a Bosch Dishwasher # shv46c13uc/43.
    The wash cycle runs forever .. all hot, cleans good but 3.5-4.0 hours
    is a bit too long .Factory wants a (second mortgage) to come out and
    diagnose it . Any Ideas would really help. Thanks , Tom.

  57. MrMark says:

    If you are having the long wash cycle issue with your Bosch dishwasher, there is a design flaw in the Bosch controller as the relay that cycles the heater is undersized. The best the relay will ever be is on it’s first use – from then on, it degrades such that it causes the circuit board to burn, or in some cases, not. Having one of these dishwashers myself and analyzing the problem, since 2008 I have repaired over 100 of these controls after following a good Engineering assessment and evaluation of the cause and effect of this issue.
    The only way to properly correct this problem is to upgrade the relay to the proper rating. Buying a new control will in time yield the same results as it does not appear that Bosch has changed their design of control (and I can expleain why they probably have not done so). Resoldering the burned place on the circuit board is a temporary fix at best.

    Please feel free to contact me if you would like to have me upgrade your control. After I do the upgrade, I will be happy to provide advice on any other issues that may come up with your dishwasher’s operation. Please feel free to email me – boschrepair “at” tx dot rr dot com, or find my ad on eBay (search for me using that same email address).

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  69. BoschOwner says:

    Thanks to the commenters who pointed out the issues with the soldering of the relay pin. I have two of these dishwashers in my house and both had the exact same problem. They would show 2h and run forever. Upon examining the boards the solder around one of the pins on the relay burnt out on both boards. To repair I scraped away some of the coating on the trace near the pin so there would be more pad to solder to. I put a lot of solder on the joint to hopefully improve the conductivity and wick away the heat.

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