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Bosch Dishwasher Control Module (266746)

This is the most commonly used Bosch control module. There have been a few changes made but it will still work on the older dishwasher models (see list below for all of the models this control module will work on). Some of the indicator lights might have a plastic covering over them. If so, you just have to remove it.

bosch control module

This control module will fit most Bosch dishwashers. Made by Bosch. Part Number: 266746.

The following model numbers use this control module:

  • GM915-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
  • GM915-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
  • GM915-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • GM926-710 UC/06 (FD 7710-7912)
  • GM926-710 UC/11 (FD 7912-8003)
  • GM926-710 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHI4302 UC/06 -FD8002
  • SHI4302 UC/11 -FD8003
  • SHI4302 UC/12
  • SHI4306 UC/06 -FD8002
  • SHI4306 UC/11 -FD8003
  • SHI4306 UC/12
  • SHI6802 UC/06
  • SHI6802 UC/11
  • SHI6802 UC/12
  • SHI6805 UC/06
  • SHI6805 UC/11
  • SHI6805 UC/12
  • SHI6806 UC/06
  • SHI6806 UC/11
  • SHI6806 UC/12
  • SHU4302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU4302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU4306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4312 UC/06 (FD 7701-7912)
  • SHU4312 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU4312 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU4316 UC/06
  • SHU4316 UC/11
  • SHU4316 UC/12
  • SHU5302 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5302 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5302 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5304 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5304 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5304 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5305 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5305 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5305 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5306 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5306 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5306 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5307 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5312 GB/08
  • SHU5312 UC/06
  • SHU5312 UC/11
  • SHU5312 UC/12
  • SHU5314 UC/06
  • SHU5314 UC/11
  • SHU5314 UC/12
  • SHU5315 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU5315 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU5315 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU5316 GB/08
  • SHU5316 UC/06
  • SHU5316 UC/11
  • SHU5316 UC/12
  • SHU5317 UC/12
  • SHU6802 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6802 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6802 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU6805 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6805 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6805 UC/12 (FD 8003-)
  • SHU6806 UC/06 (FD 7705-7912)
  • SHU6806 UC/11 (FD 8001-8003)
  • SHU6806 UC/12 (FD 8003-)

 

375 Comments For This Post

  1. Tom Says:

    I have a Bosch Dishwasher model SHU5314 UC/06 and the timer does not count down as usual. It stays at a very high minute count and I notice that the water temperature is not getting hot as it did before. I’m wondering if the probklem is a defective control module or heater assembly or thermistor.

  2. Tom Says:

    Any help is appreciated.

  3. appliancejournal Says:

    Hi Tom,

    This is a somewhat common problem with Bosch dishwashers (not that a Bosch dishwasher is not reliable, it’s probably one of the better ones out there). Usually, the timer would get stuck on 2 minutes, but really it could get stuck on any point. The cause of the problem is usually this module, which you can order through the link above. Replacing the module is pretty easy, make sure to disconnect the power to the dishwasher first (unplug it).

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for stopping by.

    admin
    ApplianceJournal

  4. David Says:

    I have a 4300 model 4306uc/u06 it is the same board w/0 led numbers will this work?

  5. appliancejournal Says:

    Yes, this Bosch dishwasher board is good for the 4306 uc 06 model as well.

  6. Martin Steinhorn Says:

    Have a 5305 dishwasher we only use about twice a week (only 2 of us in the house) and the second control module in now going bad after 7 1/2 years.
    Piece of junk, at least the module is.

  7. Raj Says:

    Having trouble with the dishwasher.

    Water is not coming in @ all.

    I check the water line and it seem to be fine.
    SO is the control module ( ran test).

    does this mean water valve is bad?

    where can i refer for internal assembly pictures…?
    any help is appreciated.

  8. appliancejournal Says:

    Raj, you can view internal components (diagrams and photos) by entering your dishwasher model number at the top of this page (under Find Appliance Parts), or post your model number here and I’ll get you a direct link.

    What happens when you turn the dishwasher on? Any sound at all from the motor or anything else?

    You always want to start from the basics, so if you haven’t already, make sure the dishwasher water shut off valve under the sink is open and functioning properly.

    Post back as much details as you can and we’ll try to help.

  9. Sandy Says:

    Hi, I have a bosch SHU5302UC and the thing is stuck on 2H. I have to time our loads for 45 minutes and then clear it out so I can hit the rinse and hold button to get them clean. I called Bosch and they told me if its 2H that there something wrong and I should call a service person. Duh, that’s why I called them. They were no help whatsoever. So I’m hoping you can help. Is this also the control module as my water/dishes don’t seem to be screaming hot like they use to be. Help!

  10. appliancejournal Says:

    Hi Sandy, welcome!

    Bosch customer support will probably never tell you exactly what’s causing a problem with your Bosch appliance. Has to do with legal issues, plus they probably want to make a few bucks off the service call.

    Well, in this capacity we are certainly not like Bosch customer support :)

    Yes, I’m pretty certain that the cause of the problem is a faulty control module and the one at the top of the page is the right one for your model. You can get it from AppliancePartsPros by clicking on the module photo. I think they have it on sale.

    If you need help with replacement, post another comment and we’ll provide instructions.

    Thanks for visiting,

    AJ

  11. Jim Says:

    my bosch SHU 6805UC/U12 is doing the same thing.. hanging at 1 and not finishing. I do a manual clear. I am about to start the testing but is there a place to get directions on how to remove the module ? I have learned it is quicker to ask than repair:) thanks

    Jim

  12. appliancejournal Says:

    Jim,

    What kind of testing were you planning on doing? What you are describing sounds very much like the faulty module problem.

    Get the module from AppliancePartsPros using the link above. Their prices are better and you should get your module within a day or two.

    As far as how to replace the old module… We’re working on a post that will have complete step by step instructions that will tell you how to remove the old module and replace it with the new one. I will leave a comment here on this page as soon as that post is ready. Should be just a couple of days.

    AJ

  13. Sandy Says:

    Me again, I have the Bosch SHU5302UC & the darn thing was hanging up on the 1 & also not heating. Well we ordered the ctrl module that AJ recommended. We looked at doing the work ourself but when we saw the installation would be a little tricky we ended up calling a Bosch service repair dude. He put it in & said we should be set. Works great and it only cost $75 for the installation – yeah!!! So under $200 and we’re good to go. Thanks so much for your help AJ.

  14. appliancejournal Says:

    That’s great, Sandy :)

    Thank you for keeping us updated.

    AJ

  15. JA Says:

    I tried to install the 266746 control panel with a replacement, but could not figure out how to get the old one out. There must be a simple solution, but I spent an hour or more trying to figure this out, ultimately closing it back up with the old one still intact. Any step by step instructions available? Thanks!

  16. Patrick Barry Says:

    I just ordered this control board from you because ours is on the fritz, again. We’ve soldered one, gotten one used on ebay and bought a whole used dishwasher (only $100!) just to keep ours running, and every time it has been the control board. So my question is, if Bosch has indeed redesigned the cover and indicator lights, as stated on the AppliancePartsPros site, have they also toughened up the board so that it doesn’t fail so often? I mean, gee whiz, this problem has been going on for years. Is it that expensive to redesign a basic control board?

    Sign me “tired of three-hour wash cycles”

  17. Patrick Barry Says:

    We got the new control board and found out that it HAS been re-engineered in several ways. With help from my son, an electrical engineering student, we learned that the board was redesigned for surface-mount components and that the two relays that have been the source of many problems (this is where the contacts melt) have been upgraded to a rating of 10 amps, rather than the 5 amps on the old board. My son says the company wouldn’t put in a bigger and more expensive component unless it was addressing a problem, so let’s hope this does the trick.

    We popped it in and have run the machine three times since then, always with the cycle running at the proper length, about 70 minutes for the delicate/economy cycle that we use.

    If this board lasts for the next 10 years or so then we’ll consider buying another Bosch, as we’ve always been impressed with how well it cleans and how quiet it is. But if the board fails, we’ll have to find someone else for our next dishwasher.

  18. appliancejournal Says:

    Thanks for the update, Patrick! Let’s hope it doesn’t fail for a long time.

    Don’t forget about the warranty on the replacement board. If it fails within the first year, contact AppliancePartsPros.com and they’ll send you a replacement free of charge.

  19. Glenn Says:

    Any progress on the post re: how to replace a control unit? I’m trying to figure out if I want to attempt this or just call the service guys for a Bosch 6805 with what looks like a 2nd faulty control unit in 6 years.

  20. Patrick Barry Says:

    Glenn, it isn’t very difficult to replace a control unit if you have basic mechanical skills. I’ve removed and replaced those control boards four times now. You need a torx driver to take the front door panel off (including some screws on the side), then you unhook all the wiring from the module (it fits only one way, so if you get the wires mixed up, just keep trying until you get them in the right slots). The module comes out by pushing on various plastic clips, and the new one pops right in. If there is a little jumper on the old board and not on your new one, move it over to the new board in the same position. Replace all the wires (including the green ground wire), put the door panel back on (making sure to position the white plastic wedges at the bottom just right, so that it holds in position), lightly screw in a few of the screws, make sure everything is lining up, and then tighten everything up.

    Our new control board continues to work fine after a few weeks in the machine. Dishes are clean and cycle times are back to normal.

  21. Dave Says:

    I’d like to second Patrick’s comments: I’m not exactly a skilled service tech, but I was able to get the door taken apart (it _is_ annoying, but persistence and care will see you through) and the control module removed, resoldered, and reinstalled without destroying the machine or injuring myself :-) .

    Can’t tell yet if the repair will hold.

  22. Dave Loch Says:

    How do I know if it is the control module?

  23. appliancejournal Says:

    Describe the problem, Dave.

  24. Glenn Says:

    Well I chickened out and had the Bosch repair guy come and replace the control unit. It was about $80 above the cost of the board and saved me a day. This was my 2nd control module replacement in a 6 year old machine. Thanks to Dave and Patrick for responding.

  25. Dave Says:

    This is Dave “Can’t tell if the repair will hold”: It did. The re-soldered control board is doing the job nicely.

    A hint for those of you who want to solder the damaged connector rather than buy a new one: take a small knife and gently scrape away from the solder point, removing some of the insulation from the circuit board, and revealing more of the copper traces to take the solder.

    I’m sure that helped my fix survive its first week, anyway.

  26. DeWayne A. Nelon Says:

    I ordered the control module but it arrived with a broken plastic spring so I am reassembling the dishwasher but I cannot figure out were the plastic wedges go. They just “fell out” when I removed the face panel. Any tips?

  27. Patrick Barry Says:

    If you mean the white wedges that are about an inch or two wide and have a slot in the middle, that slot will fit on the rail on each side of the door frame, just up from the bottom. You push the front panel against and around the wedges to line everything up; you’ll know you have it right if the screw holes line up. Does that make sense for your situation?

  28. DeWayne A. Nelon Says:

    Thanks for the quick tip. I will check on that in a bit. I don’t see a hole for a screw in the wedge but the rest of your description fits. I thought that they had come off the bottom.

    DeWayne

  29. Patrick Barry Says:

    That’s correct, there is no hole in the wedge for a screw, you just push it into place. The screws I was referring to are the ones that hold the door front panel to the door assembly. Once you have your wedges in place (at the bottom, as you remember) and push the panel onto them, all the screw holes should line up between the panel and the door itself. Good luck.

  30. DeWayne A. Nelon Says:

    Got it ad got the panels back on. What a hassle. It was not easy (at least for me!) to get the panel and the control cover (not sure what to call it) back on by myself. Good news I get o do it all again when the replacement part gets here. Thanks for all your advice.

    DeWayne

  31. Steve Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU6802 Dishwaher.
    I have just installed my new control board and I’m not getting any water in the dishwasher at all when I turn it on. The water in on under the sink and the motor is running. I removed the water line and the brass fitting and it seems to be clear. I did have a problem with the kitchen faucet when I turned the water on there was debris in the line that slowed the water to the faucet. I need to know if the problem could be the that the control board needs to be reset or something. I need help

  32. Steve Says:

    Continued Bosch SHU6802
    I did a test on the control board and the first test was a “20″ the second time for the test a “4″
    Any idea?

  33. appliancejournal Says:

    Steve, please post the problem on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/ and one of the techs will help.

  34. raymond Says:

    I have a 10 year old Bosch SHU5315 which has had the original control module soldered for the 3rd time. Repair seems to last about 2 months. Hoping this is the last time, I scraped all the burnt gunk away from the relay pin–exposing some of the copper pcb and resoldered/also added a small piece of copper wire to act as a heatsink to the solder joint. My only concern is the new module board looks quite different from my old one and hope it works correctly should this repair fail again. Does anyone have a new one installed thats been in and working for a long time?

  35. DeWayne A. Nelon Says:

    I replaced mine back in October, it has worked fine ever since.

  36. Patrick Barry Says:

    And I replaced ours in August 2007 with the redesigned board (10 amp relays, see Aug. 27 post above) and it has been working fine, with 70-minute economy cycles at least once per day. I’m satisfied . . . so far.

  37. David Lea Says:

    I have a Bosch SMU4056UC/14. After raeding what others ahd to say, it looks like my contol module is also gone bad. I have had problems with my timing, as well as the machine not heating up. Will the new control modules work on my machine? Where can I find a control module and is it difficult to install in my type of machine?

  38. appliancejournal Says:

    David, SMU4056UC14 does not have a module, instead it uses a timer and a selector switch. You can view breakdown diagrams and parts list, as well as order any part if needed, here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=195410&&model_id=232505.

    If you have a technical question, try the appliance repair forum: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

    Hope this helps.

  39. David Lea Says:

    Thanks for the information. since the washer has a timer and a selector switch and not a control module, what wopuld cause it to not heat and the timing be screwed up? Is it a ahrd fix or should I be shopping for a new dishwasher? Thanks.

  40. appliancejournal Says:

    Sounds like maybe the selector switch is bad.

    If you have an ohmmeter, try this:

    Select any cycle other than “Rinse & Hold” and check for continuity across terminals 1 and 3 on the selector switch. Replace the selector switch if it’s open (no continuity).

    - How to check components for continuity http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

    - Replacement selector switch for SMU4056UC14 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802789

  41. Chris Doehlert Says:

    Great site and help, thanks.

    I have an SHU5306 with the “2h” problem. Open the control box and indeed found one solder connection burned out that I will resolder with the help of a friend who’s expert in that.

    My concern is that there is an underlying cause and that it will just burn out again. Or that if I buy a new control module it will burn out as well because of whatever the underlying cause is.

    Any suggestions as to how to allay that concern?

  42. Patrick Barry Says:

    Our experience was that the board would burn again, but in one case it lasted about a year before failing again. And we had a new board fail, too, because it was the same as the old one, but as I reported here on Aug 27, 2007, Bosch finally did a revision of the board and replaced the relay that was overheating with a beefier 10 amp unit, rather than 5 amp.

    I don’t know if that completely solves the problem, but ours is still working fine, and let me tell you, I quickly forgot about the $150 or whatever I spent for new module. It started working properly as soon as I installed it, and that was a great relief after getting myself worked up every night for months cancelling out the cycles to get the dishwasher to finish cleaning the dishes.

    So you could try soldering it, since you have that option, then replace it if you need to later, with a certain amount of confidence that it will work. Or just replace it now and forget about it.

  43. Chris Doehlert Says:

    Patrick, thx for the encouragement.

    Resoldered the connection Saturday morning and everything is working fine so far. The 2h code disappeared after the full cycle ran successfully once.

    Here’s hoping it holds. I note with some curiosity that they upgraded to a 10A relay on a circuit that according to their own repair instructions draws 11 amps! Perhaps still undersized?

  44. Bill Says:

    I’ve had this same problem a few times with my SHU5312. I think the board has been replaces two or maybe three times.

    Is there a diagram to show which wires go to the heater unit? The solder joints all look fine on the board, so what would be helpful to know which wires go to the heater so I can can check with an ohm meter and also watch to see if the relay ever turns on.

    The dishwasher is about ten years old and we use it about 3 or 4 times a week — normal household usage. So I’m wondering what if it’s time to start looking at new units.

  45. Chris Doehlert Says:

    I couldn’t find a diagram, but it was pretty clear to me which wires were connected to the high current edge-of-board connector. I presumed that they were the ones carrying the heater current. It didn’t hurt that they were also in the region of the 10A relay. I remember the connector was just about the middle of the long side.

    Then it was clear in my case on visual inspection that one of the wires solder joint had failed.

    Good luck.

  46. Bill Says:

    Here’s a few photos — photo of the board isn’t great, but maybe you can see the heater wires on the controller photo. These are all at hank dot org slash bosch_board.jpg and bosch_connections.jpg. (The board filtered the full urls when I posted yesterday).

  47. Chris Doehlert Says:

    In my case, the one that had burned out was the bottom-most of the three that are all connected and below the “GV” in GV630

  48. steven Says:

    Hi steve here, i have a Bosch SGV4313GB/17 and for sometime it has not been taking in water, goes through all the motions when i feed it with water from the tap/jug.
    Water is on because all i hear is the water clicking on and off, but not going through the system to wash. Would this be the regulator/level sensor or a blockage …. our water in our area is hard.
    I have looked at the exploded diagrams on the Bosch website and am quite mechanically minded.
    hope you can help regards
    steve

  49. appliancejournal Says:

    Steve, post your question on the appliance repair forum http://forum.appliancepartspros.com and one of the experts will help.

  50. Vladimir Says:

    I have a problem with my Bosch DW SHX57c. It doesn’t work any more.
    Here is example:
    Timer with Quick Wash selected starts from somewhat 70min and counts down without any sign of DW live. Nothing happens during this “cycle”. Before, Quick wash started at 37min and DW worked pretty loud.

    If I push “cancel” combination, drain cycle starts.

    could anybody help?
    thanks in advance
    Thanks in advance

  51. Kathi Says:

    We have model SHU 5315 with the same problem many have described — cycle taking hours (turned it off after four hours and it still said it hd 42 minutes left).
    Since this seems to be such a common problem, why doesn’t Bosch offer to fix all of them? It seems a company like Bosch would do a recall and send technicians out to replace the board on all of the defective units.
    I don’t feel like I should spend $200 or more to fix a dishwasher that is only three years old. (It has only been used daily since we moved into the house two years ago.) Bosch will pay for the circuit board, but the fee for the repair guy to simply walk into my kitchen is $90. That doesn’t include the fee to take out the circuit board and replace it. Yes, we could do it ourselves, but should we all have to fix expensive dishwashers with what seems to be a defect in the board?
    Is there a way to get Bosch to cover this expense?

  52. Bill Says:

    My dishwasher is almost 10 years old, so it’s understandable that Bosch would not pay for the replacement part. And I did ask for them to do that.

    Bosch did pay for replacement of the board a few times before — even a year or two after the warranty expired, so I have to give them credit for that.

    That said, this seems to be a rather large defect that I suspect that Bosh wish would just go away… I would think Bosh would just want to fix them and deal with getting their supplier to pay — but perhaps there’s some dispute between them on who is to blame. But, that’s speculation.

    As for paying for a repair person to install the board: Installation on my dishwasher is was very easy. Much better than waiting for a repair person to show up. And I think I “only” paid about $120 (can’t remember for sure) for the board from a local distributor.

    Frankly, I thought it was going to be a waste of money to replace the board because mine didn’t have the obvious burnt out solder connection that you see in photos on the Internet. But, it indeed fixed it and saved me the cost of a new dishwasher.

    While researching new dishwashers I called a bunch of repair shops that repair Bosch along with other brands asking about the problem and what new brand they would recommend. I think I called three shops and everyone said they would still recommend the Bosch even with the history of this problem.

  53. Kathi Says:

    The latest from Bosch is that their warranties are non-transferrable. Even if it was within the first year, they would not pay to fix my dishwasher or provide the parts.
    I think that is very poor customer service and customer policy! They claim their products are so great, you would think they would make good on the claim!
    I am even more frustrated with them now!

  54. Dave Says:

    Hello again. This is Dave “waiting to see if the repair will hold” from last September: well, it has done.

    If you’ve got the “obvious burnt-out solder” problem on your controller, it definitely worked (at least for me) to take the board out, scrape away the crud around the burnt connection and re-solder it.

    Eight months and still going strong.

  55. Michael Says:

    Hi folks. I have an 11 year old SHU4302. I have resoldered the circuit board twice, and I’m ready to bite the bullet and replace it. However, this time the symptoms are quite different, and I’m wondering if I have a different or additional problem. In a nutshell, the machine won’t start at all. No lights, no sound, no power. I checked the fuse (in basement – I don’t know if there’s a separate one on the machine). I’m about to run out to buy a voltmeter to make sure power is getting to the switch. HOWEVER, I took out the circuit board, and it has clearly burnt out that solder spot again – so I’m wondering if the complete lack of power is a plausible result of that problem also.

    Thanks!

  56. Cherylanne Says:

    Hi, I have a Bosch Model SHU4302 D/W (bought in 2000) that runs for 3 hours plus and the water does not seem to be hot enough. The control board was replaced in 2003. Would the problem be the control board again or perhaps the heating element?

    Thanks for any help in this matter.

  57. Kathi Says:

    After MANY complaints made by my husband and me, we finally got a representative who agreed to reduce the price of the module to $60. We used the instructions I found somewhere and changed it. The dishwasher has worked fine since then. Honestly, it still makes me mad that they seem to have this recurring problem that they were unwilling to acknowledge.

  58. Paul Says:

    Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controler board?

    Thank you

  59. Paul Says:

    Hi, I have an 8 year old Bosch SHU 4306 dishwasher that now runs for almost 4 hours. Do I need a new controller board?

    Thank you

  60. Patrick Barry Says:

    Paul and Cherylanne, that sounds very much like what we encountered on three separate occasions, and though I sometimes stalled for months thinking it might fix itself (it did not), it went right back to short cycles and clean dishes as soon as I soldered or replaced the board. The new boards appear to be more robust (see my posts from Aug. 15 and Aug. 27, 2007, above) and so far ours is holding out well. Yes, it costs you $150 or so to replace, but it feels great to shut that door, turn it on, and not worry about it running all night long.

  61. brandy Says:

    Hi. I have a Bosch SHU6806uc/u12 and it is reading 2H, which after reading this board sounds like a common problem. I am about to order a new control module for it. Can you tell me if it is easy to change? Can any layman do it? If so, where will I find the instructions or does it come with the replacement part?

  62. Wayne M. Peavey Says:

    Does anybody remember potting compound? The phone co. used it all the time. Make the wiring connections, test them, & souse the potting compound to it. The stuff set up as hard plastic which protected the installation through storms, etc. Why not upgrade the control module, ckt board etc, whatever to 15 amp & pot the damned thing. That would solve the moisture/steam problem which seems to plague dishwashers.True, nobody could repair the ckt board after potting, But no one does anyway.

  63. Patrick Barry Says:

    Brandy, the board doesn’t come with instructions but if you have basic skills and the right attitude, you shouldn’t have a problem. See my post on Sept. 17, 2007 for the procedure: take apart door, unplug wires to module, unclip the module, etc.

    That board is still working fine for us, though it’s been less than a year, so who knows how long it will last.

    Oh yeah, best to unplug or open the circuit breaker first!

    Good luck.

  64. raymond Says:

    appliancepartspros.com have a repair forum which is somewhat helpful. They don’t answer all your posts but you can find others who have had similar failures and their repairs. I was able to find a technician repair pdf manual for my Bosch SHU5315/UC12. I am sure it is still posted there. It has schematics and test procedures too, not much on disassembly though.

  65. Keith Hodnett Says:

    I had read that Bosh makes Thermadore dishwashers and wanted to know if this control module is compatable with the Thermador DWHD64EP? The controls are concealed on the top right corner of the door.

    Thanks for a reply if you know.

    Keith

  66. Steve Says:

    I have a Bosch SHI6805 with the “2H” problem, and (thanks to this thread) was planning to try the solder fix on the control module. But my sink drain got clogged and water backed up into the dishwasher. When I cleared the drain, the dishwasher pumped out the water but now the pump won’t stop running and I don’t seem to be able to cancel whatever cycle it thinks it’s in (although I can make it stop) even though I’m following the Bosch cancel-cycle instructions. So the machine won’t run a cycle.

    Is this a control module problem also, so I should just replace the module, or is there something else I can do?

    Thanks!

  67. brendA Says:

    WE HAVE A BOSCH DISHWASHER THAT NEEDS A NEW CONTROL BOARD OUR MODEL IS SHU5316 UC/14 WILL THIS CONTROL WORK WITH THIS OR DO YOU HAVE ONE THAT WOULD BRENDA

  68. appliancejournal Says:

    Yes, SHU5316 UC14 takes the same exact module: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2802870&pn_=266746

  69. mickey g Says:

    i am not very mechanical at all but was able to replace the control board within a half hour.I then spent the next 3 hours trying to replace the front door panel. fyi to would be diy’ers the white supports fit onto the metal frame not the door panel itself. also tilt them forward and lift the door panel up and over the supports before you lift the door panel up into the display panel. Had i did this, the entire job would have taken 40 minutes tops. live and learn. hope this helps another less than handy person.

  70. jeanne Says:

    Question on control panel basics.
    we just purchased and had installed SHX98M09UC. Accidentally chg’d standard setting (i dunno, was scrolling thru & “value chg’d” confirmation popped up. Now we have over 2 hour run times on standard wash pgms…not what we want.
    The manual is vague (in so many respects) and doesn’t address “return to default” settings
    Do you have info on this???
    Also, we “upgraded” from prior model that had “quick wash”–what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… does this model have quick washfeature??
    And lastly, as a user/customer–> is there a more explicit wash program info document available? or can someone lay this info out for users (like me). i have good computer user skills; but not a pgmer.
    thanks for any help!
    j

  71. jeanne Says:

    “what i was initially trying to find when i created this fiasco–the quick wash is ref’d in the manual–but i could access… ” oooooops should be: could NOT access….

  72. Ken Says:

    I have a Bosch dishwasher SHU6806UC/U06. The dishwahser runs but no water enters the machine and the cycle will not end. I can get it to ru down to 1 minute but it just starts over again. Also, if I add water it just drains out automatically.

  73. Liz Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU5306UC. My problem is: one has to push the buttons REALLY REALLY hard to get them to stick and make the washer turn on at all. Forget using the Super-duper wash cycle or the super wash cycle. You could push til the cows come home and it won’t click in. After reading all these posts about the control module, is that my problem too??? Everything else works great (knock wood), except for the difficulty of getting the thing going. A repair dude in my area costs $99 just to walk in the door and look at the thing for 18 mins. Then it’s $120/hr after that, plus parts, obviously. Do I attempt replacing the module myself? I am pretty handy (repaired several of my laptops, including replacing the screen), but if it is going to be really difficult, I’d rather just live with it (or just pay the man). Suggestions? Thanks!

  74. Mike Says:

    I just purchased the control panel for a Bosch 6805. Can you post the installation instructions? thanks

  75. Mike Says:

    Hi

    I just purchased a Bosch Control Module at AppliancePartsPros. Can you post installation instructions? I’m an amateur when it comes to electronics stuff. Thanks

  76. Vlad Says:

    I have SHU5314UC model. I have the same problm as many people in this thread. I ran the test program and it came down to error code 2.
    Any advise on what to start checking first?

  77. Aaron Says:

    Does the replacement control module picture on the site come with the plastic case or do you need to resuse the old case?

  78. Bill Says:

    i just completed the solder repair on a bosch whu4306uc/06. it is working correctly. however, when i reassembled everything, i must’ve got something wrong because the button keys no longer spring back into position. they’ll change the settings, but basically stay in whatever position you leave them. suggestions?

    also, if i go ahead and replace the control module at some point, will i start getting the count-down feature as well? (not part of my model, but it looks like it’s inherent in the replacement module shown above (266746)

  79. appliancejournal Says:

    Aaron, the module includes the plastic case, just as pictured.

  80. Charles Says:

    Is the solder failure on Bosch control module part #266746 the same reason for the recall they issued in 2008?

  81. Greg Says:

    I was just contacted by Bosch because the control module had been recalled for my dishwasher. They sent a new control module (part 647475) for free and also offered to install it but I did it myself.

  82. Jennifer Says:

    I have a 10-year-old SHU5315 with the same 2H problem that so many others have had: wash cycle starts with 2H and runs down to 1 and stays there. My question concerns the new control module and the design changes described on the AppliancePartPros.com site. The module has 8 lights, but my machine has only 6. The note in the parts description says that the “lights may be covered by the plastic case and that I may have to remove the square covers over the indicator lights.” It goes on to say that it “no longer uses the red bulb indicator lights, small surface mounted lights are used intstead. If I install the new control module, will I be able to see the indicator lights on the outside panel once everything is put back together? I’m worried that the new module’s lights won’t line up properly with the circles of my old machine.

  83. David Zemens Says:

    I have a SHU5317UC model that is nine years old. I replaced the control module four years ago because of a never ending cleaning cycle problem.

    Now the problem presented itself again, would run down to 1 minute and then restart. I ordered a replacement module from http://www.PartsPeddler.com and it came today. I replaced the module and the problem still exists.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  84. Jennifer Says:

    Back in August, Raymond mentioned that he found a pdf of the repair manual for the Bosch SHU5315 at applicancepartspros.com, but the tech I chatted with said there wasn’t one available. Can anyone help me find one?

  85. Liz Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU 4316 UC-06 dishwasher and have spent the day cleaning the “build up” inside the dishwasher. After reading many comments and doing the test;

    To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
    To check each program indicator light, press its button.
    To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
    WASH = Heater fault
    RINSE/DRY = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
    CLEAN = NTC (temperature sensor) fault � note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
    To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
    If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), RINSE/DRY light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won’t heat (to 150�F) and water won�t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), CLEAN light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
    If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

    I have found that two lights lit up 1st. = Clean (indicates temp sensor fault)
    2nd. = Rinse/hold

    The wash cycle is much like the posts I’ve read, 3hrs.
    I’m wondering if I also need a control module/board (or re-solder existing).

    I would really appreciate some insight.

  86. Richie Says:

    hello i have a bosch SHU6806UC which doesn’t work. on the display it says F, can you tell me what this code means. I try to reset and get CL and continues to drain and won’t finish or move on to another cycle,the machine seems to build up water in the tub and i turn it on so it will drain but still runs and is stuck with an F on the display please help thanks, Rich.

  87. Ron Says:

    I have a SHU6805uc/06 dishwasher and the control board also has a burnt spot that cannot be fixed. I called Bosh and like many others the response I got is that the machine is out of warrantee. This is obviously a design flaw that should have been recalled, but instead Bosh decided to recall only some of the models. Has anyone taken any legal action against Bosh ? I called the AG’s office in ct. to file a formal complaint, I would suggest that you that have had this problem do the same. Bosh should not be allowed to ignore this problem.

  88. Charles Says:

    I would think that since Bosch knows that this control board is defective and there is a general recall to replace it, then they are on the hook to replace all of them. The first time a kitchen or whole house burns down or heaven forbid someone gets burned from a fire that starts from this problem, then they are totally responsible and will have a difficult time defending their inaction! That will cost them multiple $$$. Did someone say class action suit?

  89. Philip Says:

    What a terrific web site/service! I have the ‘stuck on 2h’ problem described above. From this site I learned how to diagnose the problem, take off the control panel cover and order a new part, on sale I might add. Thanks to all who have contributed.

  90. Mike Says:

    Some of the bosch dishwashers are under recall right now for a defective board relay that can burn up and start on fire. Call:
    1800-856-9226 with model and serial. if you don’t get appropriate service, call the recall management line:
    1-800-827-2315 – the folks at this # have fairly direct access to higher management on recall and non-recall issues, but even that may not help.

    This part has the same defect as the recalled, but bosch refuses to fix the part or replace b/c it is an 8 year old part. When you call, they will deny the problem and say it happens only “every now and then”. I’m on my fourth board replacement in 8 years. Bosch gave us one free board when it blew a month after the warranty went out, but now will only give me 25% off replacements, which is the same price you can get the part on line.

    Note that when you pull the board, if you find the burned out relay spot, you can likely resolder it and get another year or two out of the existing part. We are averaging 2 years for a new board at our house.

    Love the DW otherwise, but I have submitted a formal complaint to Bosch on their practice regarding this part. Refusing to repair/replace a part that is known to literally burn up and create a potential fire hazard is criminal.

    good luck–
    mike

  91. Dave Says:

    Mike (2009-05-27) — This is possibly the most important message in this board in its 2-1/2 year life.

    My resoldered board has lasted 20 months so far, but the machine is starting to show the symptoms again. I’ll be calling Bosch to attempt to arm-twist them into providing me with a newer, safer board.

    Like Mike, I really like the machine other than this problem.

    Thank you,
    Dave (2007-09-23, 2007-10-03 & 2008-05-23)

  92. Steve Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU6805. I had some of the same symptoms as previous posters (neverending wash cycles, displays 2H instead of 90 minutes, etc). I ordered the replacement module and put it in, and so far so good. The old module did have a burned out spot on it, so I am assuming that was the problem.

    I wanted to give those of you who are trying to do the replacement yourself some useful advice:
    1. When you unscrew the door to replace the module, DO NOT unscrew the two bottom screws on each side that face outward. These screws connect the door to the hinge, and they are VERY difficult to replace once removed. I made this mistake. You should only have to unscrew the ones around the edge that face up, and one screw at the top of each side that face out.
    2. To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle). This opens the ‘back door’ and gives you access to the three plastic tabs in the front of the module that need to be lifted in order to remove the module. Then, repeat the same steps to install the new module.

    Here’s hoping these newer modules don’t suffer the same flaw as the old ones.

    Cheers,
    -Steve

  93. Brian Says:

    Steve – Great post – thanks for the info! Using your tips I was able to replace this module in about 20 minutes. Only needed an extra hand from my daughter when putting the front panel back on.
    One “slight” clarification on your instructions: “To remove the module, first open the back of the plastic case by lifting three plastic tabs (one on each side, and one in the middle).” This “back of the plastic case” and the “three tabs” refer to the the control module itself. I was confused at first and was searching for these on the front panel section. Thanks again for everyone’s advice. Hope this thing runs another 7 years now with the new module.

  94. Gina Potter Says:

    I too am having the 2H problem. I have a Bosch SHU6802UC/U12 (FD8004) and am wondering if this control module will work for it. I don’t see that exact model number listed above and just want to make sure it will work before I order the part.

    Thanks so much!

    Gina

  95. appliancejournal Says:

    Gina,

    Yes, this module will fit SHU6802UC/U12 – see #1 here http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=194911&&model_id=232921

  96. Mike Says:

    I’d really strongly recommend ordering from Bosch at the number I listed above. Price is same or less than other places and you’ll get the new version of the module which has different relays than the original. Good luck. Mike

  97. Larry L Says:

    Ok, I have a SMU2046 that will not start. No ‘on light’ or anything. When I turn the timer unit, nothing. Is the timer unit out? Does it have a control panel as mentioned in past posts that I should be concerned about? Whatever help you can provide would be greatly appreciated! The kitchen is starting to smell.. :/
    Thanks!

  98. Michael V. Says:

    The module in my Bosch SHU5302UC failed for the second time – first replacement was in 2004. I contacted Bosch Customer Service, they offered a new module at 50% off their retail price. Even with overnight shipping it was a good deal. I installed it myself, a bit challenging, followed the suggestions in earlier posts. The biggest issue was reinstalling the plastic wedges behind the front panel. They slip over the shiny metal hinge piece built onto the side, vertical frame. Otherwise, it’s a job than most can do with some patience.

  99. Gina Potter Says:

    Appliancejournal – thanks for the quick reply. I need a little clarification, however. Is the conrol module #266746 the most current version?

    Mike (7/20/2009) made a comment that there is a newer version.

    Thanks for you reply as well, Mike!

    Gina

  100. appliancejournal Says:

    Mike, I know exactly what you’re saying. I would assume that APP’s inventory is current, but you know what they say about assumptions :) I will contact APP for confirmation and post back later today.

    Bosch must be feeling a little guilty :) If they’re really selling this board for half the price, which puts it right around $70, definitely get yours from Bosch. From what I can tell, most places sell it for around $150-$160, APP has it for $140. If you do order from Bosch, please let us know how it went and price paid. Seems that a lot of people are effected by this problem and the least we can do is help them save a few bucks on the new board.

  101. appliancejournal Says:

    Gina,

    They’re physically checking stock in each warehouse. I should have an answer by tomorrow.

  102. Gina Potter Says:

    appliancejournal,

    Thanks so much for the quick reply! You guys are the best!

    Gina :)

  103. Ads Says:

    This is not a question on the faults regarding the dishwasher per se, since I just bought one (now feeling worried).

    I just wonder how you can justify spending what would be 20% ($150) of a new machine on an Eight year old machine in “replacing the board”. I mean, I’m an electronic engineer & have a couple of trades and kept a DW going for 25 years for less than $100, but when you are faced with this sort of reputation, why keep replacing it…? I don’t get it… (Well, I get the environmental idea, but not the sticking with a dud idea.)

  104. Michael V. Says:

    Bosch was responsive and courteous to my call, they pulled my previous service-related call when the first module was replaced. That happened about year after the warranty period. At that time they sent a new module, no charge, and I paid a nominal fee for the installation. The Rep. offered another module at 50% off the listed price, and with overnight shipping it was still less expensive then any other vendor that I could find (AJ-your estimate is very close). Standard shipping was a nominal charge, 2-3 day and overnight shipping were options. I was assured it was the “new model”, 10 amp, and it looks like the new model pictured at various sites, with the new lights. I have no way of knowing if it is 10 amp, I trust Bosch on that. It works, and the dishwasher has operated perfectly over the years otherwise. To install the new module, I had to remove the front panels, plural, two pieces, the large flat panel and the top panel with the buttons. Then I had to remove the screw holding the top-right metal brace to slide the old module out and the new one back in. Before I unplugged the wires, I took a digital picture of the old unit, with wires attached, as a reference. As I said earlier, the challenge was trying to determine where the two black plastic wedges would go. On the back of the flat panel, near the bottom, I found two marks that were left by the wedges from resting against the panel over the years. Without those visual clues, I’m not sure if I would have been able to finish the job. I was almost ready to call a technician. Hope this helps. I believe Bosch has been responsive to me, and my experience has been excellent. Michael V.

  105. Larry L Says:

    Does anyone have any ideas about my post from 7/14 below? Would appreciate any help or suggestions.

    “Ok, I have a SMU2046 that will not start. No ‘on light’ or anything. When I turn the timer unit, nothing. Is the timer unit out?”

  106. Diana Says:

    My 4 year old Bosch dishwasher leaks around the bottom of the door everytime I use it now. The door seals look good and clean. I have nothing blocking steam outlet. Any other suggestions?

  107. Rebecca Says:

    I have a Bosch dishwasher module SHU5302UC/16 and it is haveing the same problem as the recall, but it is not covered by the recall. It gets stuck on 1min most of the time and has run as long as 4 hours to finish the cycle. I have to pay $250 to replace the same module as the recall. Is there anyone that can help?

  108. Charles Says:

    Rebecca; I have two Bosch dishwashers. Both have the same control modules, both had the same solder problem, and one was covered by their recall and the other I had to pay for myself. Bosch is apparently not recalling all of the models that have the defective part. They would not reimburse me or repair under recall the non-recalled dishwasher. It may take a disaster (i.e. a home fire) for them to realize their liability.

  109. appliancejournal Says:

    Larry, first make sure that your dishwasher gets power. Does it show any signs of life? Are any of the lights on? If not, check the wall socket. Then follow the SMU2406 wiring diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=195305&&model_id=232452 to see where the power gets lost. Terminal block, burnt wire, door switch, on/off switch, finally the timer.

  110. appliancejournal Says:

    Michael, Gina, APP said that they haven’t seen the old board in months. Every one they have in stock is that “new” reworked style. I am also trying to get in touch with Bosch to see if we can get more information out of them.

  111. Larry L Says:

    Thanks, AP. I checked power at the wall..its hot .. . There are no lights, sound or anything indicating power. I guess I’ll pull the unit out and go from there.

  112. Gina Potter Says:

    Thanks, AP! Again, I can’t tell you how grateful I am for all the help you have given!
    Just curious….you made the comment that you are trying to get in touch with Bosch to get more info out of them. What exactly are you inquiring about?

    Thanks,
    Gina

  113. sam d'angelo Says:

    I just installed the control module formy Bosche shu6806uc/u06 and still no sign of life i have checked the wall circuit and main breaker all work fine Is there an internal fuse or do i need to call in a repair person to trace wires for disruptive electrical pattern – burned out wire?
    is Bosche oing to reimburse me for my time and eforts at correcting their poor design and lack of customer service in providing newer inferior products built on a past good reputation. What a scam on the consumer. Shame n then I want results and deserve better as a consumer.

  114. sam d'angelo Says:

    excuse the typo’s but i am disappointed in this process or lack of process.

  115. appliancejournal Says:

    Gina, we were trying (still trying that is) to get a response from Bosch on this issue – If there were improvements made to the board, would Bosch acknowledge the problem and would there be some sort of remedy for their customers?; Is getting the replacement module for half the price an official policy or does it depend on the CSR’s mood? Things like that :)

  116. Greg Says:

    My SHU5316 is experiencing similar problems to others posted here, it gets to a certain point in the progem and then stalls. From all of these posts I presume that it is either the heater element or the control module. I have inspected the control module and I do not see the burned solder joint that is often mentioned. Before I purchase a replacement control module and just instal lit I would rather check continuity on the heater element first to rule that out.

    So, my question is, can anyone verify which of the connectors is for the heater element? Is it the one that is NOT an edge connector but rather the connector in the middle of the long side of the board that sits on top of the board? Mine has a BLK-BLK/GRY pair of wires and a single RED wire in it. Is this the heater? Also, what sort of resistence should I expect to measure across this?

    Thanks

  117. Gina Potter Says:

    AP, thanks for looking into those things. I’m sure all of us would appreciate hearing what Bosch has to say in response.

    Gina

  118. Gina Potter Says:

    I guess I should be addressing my responses to AJ (ApplianceJournal), rather than AP. Not sure where I came up with that. :)

  119. Bob Kerwin Says:

    I have removed the bottom of the door but I can’t get to the module. How do i remove the top part of the door so I can get to the ckt board?

  120. Michael V. Says:

    If I recall correctly, there are two, maybe four, screws on the top metal brace/bracket, separate from the bottom large door. I needed to remove the top screws to gain access to the module. The screws are on the side, near the top corner – may be hard to see.

    Michael V.

  121. Bob Kerwin Says:

    Thank you Michael, you were right and it worked.
    Bob K

  122. Michael V. Says:

    Your welcome, Bob – glad to hear that you were able to continue and hopefully were successful with the project.

    Michael V.

  123. Bob Kerwin Says:

    Michael,
    I re-soldered the bad joint as well as adding a jumper to be sure and then tried the washer again, No luck, still 4 hour cycle time. Then I decided to take a chance that it was still a problem with the module so I ordered a replacement from BSH Home Appliances, Part # 264461. They were very helpful, had a live chat with them. Installed the module, very easy, and IT WORKEd. Back to 90 min cycle times. Thanks again.
    Bob K

  124. Michael V. Says:

    After reading that Bosch upgraded the relay to 10amp from 5 amp, I concluded that the root cause of the problem had been both identified and resolved. My choice was to replace the module rather than re-solder the defective unit after going through all the effort to remove it. DIYers are saving $$$$ when buying from vendors listed in this forum, and not directly from Bosch.

  125. Jon Koerber Says:

    I just spent three days with Bosch trying to get information about why the controller board on my SHU5312UC/06 has failed for the second time in the past 8 years? What an absolute waste of my time trying to get information from them.

    I was lucky enough to complain loudly enough about the shoddy replacement board I had already had installed in the unit (while still under warantee) so I got 50% off the price of the new board (still ended up costing me over $90)

    The board I am replacing already had the “upgraded” (yeah right) 10A power modules on it. Guess they still burn out fast as this board is only 4 years old. So don’t assume this upgraded 10A component will last any longer than the original 5A one did.

    When I got the replacement board from Bosch Service it did not come with the little plastic jumper shunt that was installed on the far right of my old controller board.

    Bosch absolutely refused to help me answer the question of whether I should move this part to the new board, or i I should leave it off. All they wanted to do was send out a service technician for a $120 service call (defeats the whole purpose of DIY). Thank goodness I came across this Web site and the http://www.appliancepartpros.com where they have a free “troubleshooting guide” that specifically tells you to move the shunt from the old board to the new one. THANKS!

    Bosch is simply a horrible company to work with, and despite their vaunted name, I will never buy another Bosch product again. Given the number of folks on this posting that have had burned out controllers, we should all band together to do a class-action lawsuit against Bosch to force some long-term solutions to this recurring problem.

    INSTALLATION TIPS FROM MY EXPERIENCE:
    On our SHU5312UC/06 I did the following:

    1) UNPLUG THE DISHWASHER! Removed all screws across the door assembly except for the bottom screws near the hinge.

    2) Pop out the top plastic housing – back and up – from the door assembly and tilted it back and let it hang from the on/off switch cable and the ground wire.

    3) Disconnect the 7 cables from the back of the controller unit in the semi-clear plastic housing on the right of the door. Note their positions for reference, although they generally stay in order and are easy to reconnect.

    4) Unsnap the clips (several of these) from the controller unit to release it from the top plastic door assembly (this is tricky, so take your time)

    5) IMPORTANT: Remove the plastic jumper/shunt (if you controller has one) on the far right of the box. your replacement unit won’t have one and it is needed on the new controller.

    6) Place the new controller in place (make sure the jumper/shunt was installed first) and snap it into the spot over the front panel buttons. It should snap into place.

    7) Reconnect all the wiring harnesses in the same order on the new controller.

    8) To close up the door assembly I partly unscrewed the last 2 screws near the bottom hinge to allow the door assembly to tip open about 1 to 2 inches near the top. This makes it much easier to attach the metal tabs on the inside of the top plastic housing over the metal tabs that are on the metal part of the door itself. If you don’t loosen those bottom screws part way, its almost impossible to squeeze the top plastic housing with the control unit back into the door assembly and successfully insert the top into the metal tabs.

    9) Once the top plastic housing with the controller is securely installed back in the door frame, put all of the door screws back in with the two screws that go in sideways last.

    10) Plug back in the dishwasher and run a test cycle.

    Hurray, you just saved a $120 service call and only wasted 30 minutes of your day.

  126. MrMark52 Says:

    I just went through this with my 1998 SHU4306. I resoldered the board as instructed, but also applied a jumper wire from the burned terminal to another terminal on the same “pad” on the board. If you look closely, there are 3 terminals about 1/4″ apart, one of them being the burned terminal. The other two terminals, if you look through the green solder mask are in-line going towards the 3 terminal plug (which is where the heater plugs in.).
    In my opinion, just solder repair of the burned joint will not be adequate. AND, after doing this repair, the dishwasher only worked for about 2 weeks more before quitting again.

    So, I did some research, and come to find out, the heater relay was bad. Probably because it’s rated 10 Amps (regardless of voltage, amps is amps), and the heater itself pulls pretty close if not slightly more than 10 amps.

    The original relay in my board was made by Schrack and is no longer manufactured. I did some research, and found a Tyco relay T7CV5D-12, available from DigiKey electronics. Current price is $1.58, plus shipping (which was more than the cost of the relay. USPS was $2.07 for first class mail. Ordered Thursday afternoon, it arrived in Saturday’s mail.).

    Using a solder sucker, I un-soldered the old relay, installed the new relay, made certain the jumper I had made was securely soldered to the burned terminal as well as the other two terminals described above.

    All is well after a week, and very likely for another 10 years, if not longer due to the increased contact rating. I took the cover off the old relay and you could see the contact burnt up.

    So if any of you do the solder trick, chances are it’s a short term repair, and you need to replace the relay, period. As the solder joint burns over cycles, it causes the contact to heat up, further causing damage to it. And it snow balls from there at each cycle.

    FOr those of you who don’t want to go this deep into the repair, email me and I’ll work with you to repair the unit for far less than a new one costs. Of all the research I have done on this board, about the only failure issue I’ve caome across is the “does not heat” issue. I’ve not heard of anything else causing a failure.

  127. Richard Says:

    I have had enough so I’m buying a Bosch Ascenta Series Dishwasher, model SHE4AM16UC, is there anyone who can give an evaluation of this machine weather its good or bad as far as in integrity wise, my old Bosch broke down enough times that I will not put another dime into it. Thanks Rich.

  128. Jennifer Says:

    I’ve gone through the re-solder process twice in the last six months – even applied a jumper the second time around – and I’m back to where I started. Once again, the cycle runs down to 1 and just won’t quit. I’m interested in learning more about the fix that MrMark52 described. I have 1999 SHU5315 – will the relay you described work for my model?

  129. MrMark Says:

    To Jennifer,

    Hate to be long winded, but -

    The control looks for the water temperature to be heated to (I think) 160 degrees before it will end the cycle. Any countdown prior to the water reaching the temperature is more fictitious than anything, (although in tests, I am sure the manufacturer found that for typical water inlet temperatures that it took a given amount of time to heat the water to 160.).

    The only indication I can give you to give an idea if the relay will work is look at the board. Mine had 3 relays on it, side by side. Tow were smaller relays, one was larger. The larger one is the culprit (you can see which pins that were resoldered go to what relay on the board.). Again, mine was an orange Shrack (all three relays are) with a 12VDC coil and 10 amp rated contacts.

    I would suggest that what do you have to lose to try the repair? $5 and a little time? Versus a new timer?

    Another thing you can do is to remove the relay and take the cover off. You can look the contacts over and make you own decision. I noticed the reed of the relay was discolored, indicating it had gotten hot. With a magnifying glass (I’m an old fart, so my eye’s are not what they used to be) I could see the burned contacts.

  130. henri Says:

    I have tried several times to post a question on that thread, but it never actually gets posted. I was wondering what are the requirements if any in order to be able to post something here?

  131. Mark Says:

    I have a model she46c06uc/46 with the same program control module problem. Does my dishwasher also use the 266746 module? Also, how can I be sure that the new module I buy is not going to develop the same problem? Thanks.

  132. MrMark Says:

    To determine if your dishwasher uses the same board, you can go to http://www.searspartsdirect.com and look up the P/N’s for your unit.

    However, I don’t know that the design flaw is common to only 1 of their boards, or a range of their boards. Key thing is to see if you have a larger relay with a 10 Amp rating. If so, you probably have the problematic relay.

  133. Jesse Says:

    I have a SHU6805UC/U06. Replace the board last year with the new updated one. It runs good, but dishes are not getting clean as of this week. I cleaned everything (drain, filter, wash arms) and ran a diagnostic test. It is indicating that “flow switch (e5) has failed (opened)”. I had to cancel the test cycle and opened it right after and it seemed to be very hot inside so water is heating.

    I am looking to see if the flow switch at APP is easy to replace or not and if so if anyone has tips for doing it.

    Thanks
    Jesse

  134. appliancejournal Says:

    Mark, your model takes a different module – part number 661682 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?pn_=661682&part_id=3965017

  135. appliancejournal Says:

    Jesse,

    A flow switch is not difficult to replace.

    Read the Bosch dishwasher manual (it covers your model as well as most others) – http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/attachments/dishwasher-repair/180d1207853064-bosch-dishwasher-troubleshoot-manual-bosch-dishwasher-troubleshoot.pdf

    Flow switch location – number 8 on this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=232446&diagram_id=194921#d194921

  136. Mark Says:

    Will the Control Module at the top of this post fit a model SHU43C06UC 46 Bosch dishwasher. What was the outcome of ordering from Bosch vs online/local parts supplier (price difference). My model was listed in the recall but apparently since it was purchased in March 2007 was not eligible. Cycle stops at 1 minute
    and runs for hours. Read all of the posts and seems likely to be the Control Module.

  137. Mike Says:

    Hi all. My dishwasher got a problem and I suspect the control module. It’s not quite the same as you describe. When I power on the machine, all leds are black. When I push a button the display that usually show time, lights up two segments of the numbers. Pushing an other button lights up two other segments. Almost like a test cycle of the buttons. Nothing else happens. The type sign is since long time gone so I don’t know the model number. I guess I have to pull the machine out and maybe it’s another sign on the back. The control module says Siemens 5wk57607 and:
    ‘ 05 37 02 ‘
    ‘ 5 600 030 640 AI02′

    Any clues or other steps I can perform to be sure the module is broken?

  138. henri Says:

    Having to change the electronic module on my SHU4302 and as the part on this page listed my machine as supported, I bought this module.

    Althought it seems to work fine (no more running for hours), the buttons and led do not match my fascia panel. From what I can tell it matches the SHU5302 (led display, program function shifted one button to the right…

    My question is can I keep using this module safely with this model (although it is not meant for it), and if so, I can then just buy the 5302 fascia panel so that I can see the led display, and have the program names at the proper place.

    thanks for any feedback

  139. henri Says:

    After more in depth testing it appears I have all the functionality of the 6802 with that board (delay start, top rack only, power scrub, scrub, regular, eco, quick, rinse, wash modes).

    So if I keep the board, I’ll need to get the 6800 serie fascia panel so I can actually use these.

    Again, not looking for a guarantee that it will not cause any problem (I wont hold it against you if it breaks:)), but I would appreciate any informed opinion, on whether I should not have any downside in keeping that board (266746) with my 4302 model.

    Thaks again

  140. Jennifer Says:

    Just wanted to thank MrMark for the information regarding the new relay. I bought the part online for $1.57 and had it sent regular mail for about $2. My dad installed the new relay in about 10 minutes and my SHU5315 has been working fine ever since. Thanks so much for posting the info – I can’t beleive my Bosch headache is over (for now) for less than $5!

  141. Tinkerer Says:

    Wish I’d come across Mr. Mark’s response earlier since I ended up going down the same road and discovered the same result (but different relay manufacturer).

    I’ve owned this Bosch dishwasher (SHU5315UC/U06) for 10 years and had the same problem a number of times – wash gets most of the way through the cycle and then stops almost at the end, doesn’t drain the final rinse. Other than this problem, we love the dishwasher, it’s silent and very efficient and the wife wasn’t happy about replacing it (not just a question of cost but the dishwasher actually does a decent job – when it works!).

    For the first few times, I was able to fix it by applying a soldering iron to the relay pin that was sooty black (the recommended solution described in a number of forums on this problem) but after a while, it too failed to fix the problem. I ran all the diagnostic tests recommended for this model but it didn’t show up any problems.

    On the verge of buying a replacement Controller Board ($135+S&H), I decided to try one more thing based on the following thought – if the current is so high that it would cause such arcing (the soot on the relay pin), wonder what else it might impact? Nothing ventured nothing gained, and since the fallback was to buy a replacement board anyway, I removed the relay from the board and decided to run a couple of tests. Once I found the relay spec, I discovered that it was a 12vdc relay rated to handle up to 10amps, DC or AC. In the unpowered position, it is closed between pins 1 and 4 and open between 1 and 3 (coil pins are 2 and 5). I applied 12vdc to the relay (using a car battery) and it seemed to work as it was supposed to – how disappointing.

    Well, since I had already taken the relay off, I decided to go one step further – the destructive step. I cut the plastic shell off the relay and bingo – there it was. One side of the relay contact points contained so much soot, you could have started you own coal mine! Clean away the soot and the points look like the surface of the moon – so pitted that not even a miniature moon-buggy would have been able to traverse its surface. It’s a wonder that it wouldn’t work.

    I’m not sure if the current through the relay in normal operating conditions is anywhere near the 11 amps the heater is supposed to draw (it makes sense that it would be since, after all, this is the heater relay) but if so, herein lies the problem.

    The brilliant engineers at Bosch while designing a pretty decent dishwasher actually messed up on this component. They’ve used a relay that simply isn’t up to the job! Even though my tests showed that the relay still seemed to function in a simple power-on test, the only thing that makes sense to me is that since I wasn’t drawing a heavy enough current through the relay contact points, it would behave fine under low current conditions.

    I ordered in a replacement from Mouser (www.mouser.com), part number: 769-JS1-12V, price $1.29 (+S&H). That’s right –One Dollar and Twenty-nine cents!!! And a dozen washes later, our beloved dishwasher is back from the dead and working consistently. Of course, as most of you realize, this just fixes the problem for a while since, even if this is the relay originally recommended by Bosch, it’s not the right relay for the job. I ordered in a couple of spare relays – if I can keep the dishwasher going for another ten years, we’ve got more than our money’s worth. Wish I could find a higher rated relay with the same footprint that will be the proper permanent fix – anybody got any suggestions?

    One further recommendation – if you put a heat sink on the relay pin on the Controller Board that usually soots right up, it will likely increase the life of this fix. I couldn’t find a commercial heat sink to fit the job, so I made my own. I did this by (a) taking a piece of standard plumbing ½” copper pipe, (b) cut off a 1/2 inch length, (c) cut it along its length and flattened it, and (d) trimmed it to approx. ½” by ½”. I bent it to right angle along one length (this is necessary since, once installed, it needs to not interfere with the plastic enclosure that surrounds the Board).

    Examine the Board very carefully and you will find that there are two other pins in line with the (sooty) relay pin directly connected to it through the Board’s printed circuit. Check with an ohm meter and ensure you have the right two pin – as with anything else in electronics, doing it wrong could be disastrous. Solder the heat sink to all three pins, the idea being that it not only acts as a heat sink but a larger electrical conduit for this heavy current. Build the solder up in a blob to the height of the pins, especially the relay pin, to maximize the surface area of contact for current flow.

    Warning: Do not attempt this fix unless you understand exactly what you are doing. This is not a time to be learning on the job, considering the potential for disaster. You have been warned!

  142. Dave Says:

    Folks,

    Searching on mouser.com (http://budurl.com/pabt) as suggested by Tinkerer in today’s post, I found that there are two versions of the 769-JS1-12V relay. I found the 769-JS1-12V-F, which looks quite like the 769-JS1-12V, for $0.47 at Future Electronics (http://budurl.com/yj6c).

    Does anyone know what the difference between the two might be? If they’re interchangeable, you could buy three of them for a couple of pennies more than just one, and keep some as spares. Then again, for a buck-twenty-nine, you can replace it with exactly the (clearly insufficient) part that Bosch specified.

  143. Dave Says:

    Update: Forget about Future Electronics: their cheapest shipping option is $2.00 more than Mouser’s, so unless you’re buying a crateful of these things, it’s not worth it. Sorry to have wasted your time.

    I’ve ordered a relay from Mouser, and I’m off to see about building a heat sink per Tinkerer’s instructions.

  144. Tinkerer Says:

    Just one more tip and a clarification: Lightly sand or wire-brush the copper surface that will be next to the pins until its shiny, and immediately coat it lightly with solder flux/paste before it oxidizes (this will help the molten solder flow easily and attach to the copper).

    When bending the copper plate into shape, bend it into an L shape with each side the same width as the other. Since each side will then be a 1/4″, there’s no chance of it touching the plastic enclosure or shorting with anything on the Board.

  145. ed hughes Says:

    bosch dishwasher cycles run forever what part is responsible .
    model no shx46a05uc.

  146. Fred Says:

    I have Bosch dishwasher Model 5300. I get code 4 after running the diagnostic test which is the f1 level switch but I can not find any information on how this switch is installed. Do I need a service man to install?

  147. carl Says:

    mrmark can you please send me your e-mail address

  148. MrMark Says:

    To all who have reviewed or tried my relay replacement suggestion, your welcome. Tinkerer, good that you went down the path as well, but let me point a few things out about what you’ve done, and what your planning to do.
    First, the better solution is to use a higher rated relay, which can easily be purchased from Digi-Key. I checked sources like Mouser and ALL Electronics, but none had the amp rating. Both had the 10 amp rating, and that just won’t cut-it. I will expect your relay to fail again in a few years, further complicated by the board being further damaged. Because – the heat is generated as the contact points begin to fail after years of use. A heat sink will not solve the problem, even if you could get it to fit onto the board safely. And the heat sink cause a fire hazard as well. Best not do that, as insurance companies can deny claims when (and please don’t take me wrong here) “shade tree” repairs are made.
    My suggestion comes from years of being involved with machine and appliance design Engineering and repair. Not only have I designed this type of equipment, I have repaired it as well.
    This isn’t meant to be negative toward your efforts, but just a suggestion to put the right part in, and you won’t expose yourself or others to possible risk, or future failures of the appliance.

    For those wanting to get in contact with me directly, stewartswitch at yahoo.com will get me. I don’t check this account everyday, but I do check it, and will do so more frequently for awhile after this posting.

  149. critt001 Says:

    Trying this post….just typed out a long post and it didn’t apparently go through.

  150. Henri Says:

    I had the same problem (see henri posts up the list). I tried several times to post a question without success with various sizes and it never worked.

    Then I typed one more test directly in the page and it worked ?

  151. critt001 Says:

    OK – now that THAT worked…here goes again.

    Major props to all who have contributed to this thread. It’s got great information. So – two days ago my 9-year old SHU 5312 came up with the dreaded “2H” virus. A quick scan of internet lead me here and the decision to get a new Control Module (CM) from above. It arrived this morning and was installed this afternoon in 20min or so. The problem now is that its doing the same thing. I can get a cycle to come up and count down, but nothing but spinning motor sound from DW. Cycling the “Delay Start Hours” button to zero comes back with “2H” (again). Some further digging around lead me to a wonderful Bosch troubleshooting manual from this site’s dishwasher repair forum which, after running diagnostic test on DW returned an error code of “4″ (If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed.).

    So – do I need a new water level switch? Can this new CM make my old water level switch work? (Is a new water switch what I needed all along?)

    I’m handy enough to change out the CM in pretty short order but I don’t own nor do I have experience with a soldering iron or multimeter.

    I’m hopeful for some continued great information from this discussion.

  152. MrMark Says:

    critt001 -

    Nice/bad thing about these boards is they tell you what to look at, not if the part is bad.
    Example – My pump sometimes seizes with trash from the dirty dishes. Manual instructs to replace the pump, which had been done once under warranty. The next time it happened, I got my fingers into the impeller from the top and found it wouldn’t turn. Taking a chance, I got a socket on the impeller nut and turned the impeller, breaking it free of the piece of trash.
    Moral of the story is, if I had followed the manual, or had followed the code the control board gave me, I would have replaced the pump every time, when all it was, was a piece of trash.
    With that Aesop’s tale, I would suggest removal of the switch and make sure nothing has caused a similar problem as I had found with the pump (although for no more than the switch costs, have one on hand in the event the existing one is bad.).

  153. critt001 Says:

    Thanks MrMark,

    After rolling the sleeves up and doing more investigation: I disconnected the water supply and found no debris there, then ran some water through the unconnected supply line without issue, then I pulled the DW out from under the counter and removed the left panel to see the switch guts. Turning the power back on and running the diagnostic again, I could effect change in the switch manually (raise/lower control rod = different sound in motor). I still got the #4 error (no water = no fill), but I had a bit of hope. I put the panel back on, pushed the unit back under the counter and reconnected the supply line. I ran the diagnostic (again) and this time, it sounded different – like the drain cycle followed by water fill. So the “4″ changed to “0″ (no faults) – but as the minutes ticked by and there was no change, I found on the troubleshooting pdf that in addition to no faults, “0″ can mean a failure of the flow switch to open…hmph… I stopped the diagnostic and opened the DW – detergent door had slid open – and steam was coming out. So I took a chance and just started the DW in a regular cycle (no diag)…we’re 18min into the cycle with 59 (and counting) to go…so I’m keeping my fingers crossed. Any thoughts? Anyone? Thanks -and I’ll update with more.

  154. MrMark Says:

    critt001 -

    Did you look inside the water connection on the dishwasher side? Sometimes there is a screen there that clogs with stuff out of the water line (this is especially true if you have old water lines in your house or in the area.). Have you had problems with any other water appliances?
    Disconnecting, then reconnecting the water supply line as you did, plus shifting and bouncing the unit around can be enough to temporarily dislodge anything that may have clogged the inlet filter.
    You could also have a problem with the fill solenoid not energizing allowing water to flow into the unit (I don’t recall if the flow switch measures incoming water supply or pump supply, or both.). The solenoid could be bad, intermittent, or wire loose (unlikely).

    Let us know what you find, cause although it’s working now, you don’t know that it’s fixed until you can find out why is broke.

  155. critt001 Says:

    MrMark:

    The water lines didn’t look too cruddy – I do have hard-ish water (from a well) but have had no other issues with any water appliance lately (knock on wood). There’s 15min to go on the wash cycle and so-far-so-good (again, knock wood). I’m planning on running another load through it tonight for good measure and going from there. I understand your thoughts as far as not knowing it’s fixed until I know why it broke. I would have to approach any further digging with a bit of trepidation. I don’t think I have the appropriate knowledge to head back into the left side of the unit with a multimeter and check solenoids and switches (especially not without some spare parts in hand to swap out). We’ll see. Nagging question: Did I really need to get the new Control Module? Maybe I don’t want to know – still cheaper than a new unit or a service tech visit.

    Thanks for the thoughts.

  156. carl Says:

    We would like to thank everyone at the appliancejournal.com for such a great website. We had the same problem many people are having , it stayed on forever. Our dishwasher is a 6802 Bosch. We especially would like to Thank MrMark for all the information he gave. We ordered the heater relay from DigiKey and it arrived in two days. We did the repair and the machine is working better than before.
    Our control module was less then a year old and I did not want to buy a new module or dishwasher. Thank you again.

    Lena

  157. sbk101 Says:

    I have a SHX46UC02- burnt out solder spot on circuit board. This is a late 2006 build- that’s 7+ years of this Bosch relay fiasco!!! MrMark, I will contact you to do your fix since I know my resolder will fail again. Hey- someone should recycle all the replaced boards by replacing the relays with 12amp ones. There’s lots of takers out there for these aftermarket rebuilds – pimp my Bosch!!

  158. bosco seattle Says:

    thanks again. As with many appliance problems, misery loves company. Your professionals are accurate, up to date and do an effective job researching and summarizing our needs. thanks for the help.. AV Seattle

  159. Karen Head Says:

    I have an Bosch SHU6805UC/U06 and I think the circuit board has gone bad. It hasn’t worked for a year and when my husband started it out of the blue today because the DW smelled, it started on fire. We are not part of the recall. Can we order a circuit board somewhere?

  160. Dave Says:

    Two years for me, and this thread still continues to serve… I’ve got the machine apart again today to replace that infamous under-rated relay, as the machine has been up to its old tricks again since the Spring (yes, I’m _that_ lazy).

    As soon as I got the door apart today, my 12 year-old son noticed that the plastic sheet between the wire harness and the inner door panel insulation was warped and melted. I posted a picture (http://url.ie/2zgc) that shows how hot those wires must be getting. It makes me nervous. Anybody got a clue as to whether this is dangerous, or just further evidence of Bosch’s corner-cutting on this product?

    Incidentally, I bought a relay from Mouser Electronics, as recommended above, even though it’s under-rated for the amount of current it has to carry. I’ll report results if and after I get it installed.

    BTW, If you buy parts from Mouser, you’ll start getting their phone-book-sized catalogs in the mail: i don’t know how they stay in business, selling $1.29 parts and then sending catalogs that _must_ cost more than that!

    Dave (Since 2007-09-23)

  161. MrMark Says:

    Dave,

    Looked at that picture, it’s one of two things, and I would be concerned with any.

    First, if the wires are getting hot enough to cause that much damage to the shield, what do the wires look like? Wire insulation is made of pretty much the same stuff as the shield and in order to cause that much damage, the insulation would have had to burn off the conductor.
    Second, it could be chemical attack, totally unrelated to how much current is being drawn.

    In defense of Bosch, wire sizing and board design are reviewed by U/L, CSA, ETA, and other listing organizations that the manufacturer may choose. Having dealt with U/L and CSA before, I am suspect of the nature of the cause of your burned wires when that much of the wire has apparently “burned”. Burned insulation is common place on high current wires that have crimped ends, and the crimp was not adequate (you see this all the time in heating and air conditioning equipment.).

    I would suggest the following -

    1) Order a new wire harness for that section of wiring. Am pretty sure you can get it from Sears Parts. Don’t splice it, because when you get the new harness, compare the writing on the wire insulation between the new and the old harness. If the new harness wire gauge is larger (which is a smaller number than the original, like 12 ga or 10 ga, etc.), then stop and drop everything, and contact Bosch warranty services. Tell them what you have found, and you see this as a liability that they probably don’t want. If they choose not to escalate, then find a way to contact Bosch legal department, by email. Take the picture you posted, and additional pictures of the condition of the wiring, and attach to the email. Explain what you have found, and you feel that the safety of you, your family, and friends may be at risk. State that it appears they have manufactured a unit which appears to have been manufactured improperly, or that you were not notified of any recalls or factory modifications to prevent this type of damage.
    2) DON”T USE THE MOUSER RELAY!!!. I looked at Mouser, and could not find a suitable replacement! Use the Digi-Key part I recommended and you shouldn’t have any further trouble with the control board. Anything I found from Mouser either would not fit, or did not have the required current rating (as you mentioned.). An undersized relay could further compromise the board so that it could not be repaired again in the future.

    Finally, it is very unlikely that the improperly sized relay or failed wiring as you have found would cause a fire unless the unit is improperly wired to a fuse or breaker, or you have high levels of volatiles in the room. What will happen when the conductor inside of the insulation burns through the insulation, it will likely go to ground, thereby tripping the breaker or blowing the fuse. All the wiring is trapped inside the metal casing of the dishwasher, and there should not be anything inside that will burn should there be sparks or wires hot enough to cause ignition of other materials (think about it, if you have electric heat, electric water heater, or electric cook top, the burner get’s so much hotter that those wires inside the dishwasher have gotten.

  162. MrMark Says:

    For all who have this problem, or think you have a board problem, I just realized I missed one important detail (having it just happening to me.).
    Make certain that the drain from the dishwasher is clear and unrestricted to the sewer line. That means checking the port on the garbage disposal to make sure it’s not clogged (if that is where your dishwasher drains to.).
    If the dishwasher doesn’t drain, then it continues to run and heat the water until all the water is pumped out. Didn’t think I had a problem until one day the dishwasher kept running, but water was HOT. Later when the Mrs was washing out some pans and things, the dishwasher had stopped because the drain eventually took all the water. Thinking about it later, I thought it interesting that the sink didn’t fill with water, but the dishwasher pump probably only has enough head capability to push water about 5 feet high (or 11 psi or so.).
    Friend of mine also said he has had the port on the disposal to plug up.

    Let me stress though, the relay issue is real as evidenced by the burned spot on the circuit board. I just thought the above would be good for all to know too.

  163. sbk101 Says:

    The relay problem is real alright. One way to narrow down if you have a clog or a circuitboard issue is to check if the unit will drain normal in the cancel/drain mode (on mine you push 2 buttons simultaneously). If it drains in less than a couple of minutes and your water is not nice and steamy, inspect the circuitboard for solder connection burned spot.

    http://www.squidoo.com/Bosch_Dishwasher_Drainage_Problem_Fixes

    MrMark thanks for your updates. I would like to do your relay swap as you suggested on earlier posts, but mine is not a 12vdc, but 6vdc- 10amp. I found 12amp 6vdc replacement at DigiKey. Any suggestions?

  164. MrMark Says:

    SBK101 – Interesting about it being a 6 VDC coil. Try to find specs on the original relay, either in terms of coil resistance, holding or inrush current. Choose a new relay whose resistance is the same or slightly higher, or whose holding and inrush currents are near the same or slightly lower. I don’t recall the driver chip that was used, probably a ULN2803, which should be able to tolerate some increase in current. But try to check it out to be sure. Higher coil resistance should equate to lower inrush or holding currents, which keeps you from having other problems with 2803. You can follow the traces on the circuit board to find the driver chip (it could just be a single transistor). Read the numbers, look up it’s ratings, and you have your answer as to what replacement relay to use.

  165. sbk101 Says:

    Thanks for your reply. When I had the circuitboard out I took pictures of it on both sides. The writing on the relay is quite visible (and so is the burnt solder spot). When I ordered replacement relay I matched all the numbers except coil rating- I went highter to the 12 amp one. I did not trace the driver chip though. I emailed the pics and stuff to your earlier provided address. Right now DW is working with original relay resoldered in place. I want to have my new one ready to go when old one goes out again. I have spec sheets from manufacturer for both and as it looks everything matches-except coil amp rating. I will post PDF files for both if you could look and compare. You are much more of an expert than me.

    old relay: Song Chuan 899-1C-F-C 6V-DC
    http://www.songchuan.com.cn/db/pictures/AdminModules/PDT/PDT090410001/20098292052829760.pdf

    replacement relay: Tyco T7CS5D-06
    http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/T7C_DS.pdf

  166. isktarum Says:

    Hi, this forum has helped me try to diagnose so far, but i am still having issues with my 10+ year old SHU5312 dishwasher.

    About 1 year ago, I found the arced pin on the circuit board, and resoldered the relay back to the board. That fixed the endless cycle problem… but it only lasted about 1 year. Now the problem seems like it returned, so I disassembled the module again, and noticed that all pins checked out continuity-wise. I removed the 10A relay from the board, and measured the coil resistance to be approx 295ohms. From the datasheet i believe it should be 400ohms. Anyway, I hooked up 12V to the relay and it clicked over, indicating that it works. I am still unsure if the relay is fully functioning or not.

    I resoldered the relay back to the board, and hooked everything back up. I restarted a normal wash. At first it appeared to be fixed, but then hung up at 26 mins to finish. I canceled the cycle by pressing both scrub wash and delicate/econo, and just as it went to CL, it proceeded to report F.

    I did some searching and found a test procedure, and now when i run the test, error code 4 comes up, indicating a fill error.

    Does this problem still sound like a faulty control module? or could there now all of a sudden be a new problem with the fill components?

  167. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum,

    The failure of the relay will not be where it has a burned out coil, so coil resistance is probably OK (I assume you are looking a the exact data sheet for the relay that you have. These little cube relays have a range of resistances for the coils for a given voltage.). Plus you confirmed the coil good by testing with a power source off the board.
    Next, the failure of the relay is the contacts become heavily oxidized and intermittent. But only the Normally Open contact. The Normally Closed contact is not used on my board. Based on that, I was replace the relay.
    But not before determining the reason for the current failure. If your looking at the repair document that I think you are, then between it and the board, you are getting an indication of where to look. But keep in mind, I thought I had the same problem as you, washer would not drain with an indication of bad water flow switch, and it ended up being the bad relay. The problem we have with all this is we don’t have a flow diagram for the micro-controller chip on the board, so some indicators of failure can be misleading.

  168. isktarum Says:

    MrMark,

    Thanks for the quick reply. I ended up buying a new relay with the same specs at a local electric parts supply shop and tested the coil resistance on the new part to be 395 ohms (close to the 400 that the datasheet shows). I changed the relay on the board with this new one to be sure, as well as cleaned up the solder on many other pins on the board as I could see some cracking of the solder on some pins.

    After reassesmbling back into the dishwasher, I get the same error code come up. Shortly after powering on, the LCD shows “F”. If i run the diagnostic test, it comes up with error “4″. Both of these indicate a “fill error”.

    I agree with you that this may still be an issue with the electronic control module; but I am unsure where to look next. The dishwasher drains water no problem, but it doesn’t seem to fill. It could be the fill solenoid, or the ECM still. The machine also doesn’t seem to “stop draining”, as in, once I power it on, the drain impeller turns and empties any water i’d put in, and it doesn’t stop.

    Any advice on where to look next before I decide to call a repair tech in to take a look? or before I go ahead and order a new ECM board?

    Also, I’m not sure what repair document you’re referring to. I don’t actually have one. if you have a link handy, I’d appreciated you posting/sending it.

    Thanks.

  169. isktarum Says:

    By the way, here’s the datasheet of the new relay I put on my board:
    http://www.sanyourelay.ca/public/products/pdf/SRD.pdf
    p/n: SRD-S-112D

  170. Tim Says:

    Isktarum,

    We may have a similar issue causing the Code 4. On my SHU5315 DW I replaced the control module with a burnt heater relay solder joint about a year ago. Recently the DW started acting up again with a Code 4, and I put in another new control module. I still get a Code 4.

    The water level sensor swwitch is working as it should, and the resistances at the control module harness check out within spec for all the components.

    With the Code 4 the DW continues to fill until overfilled when the float switch activates, which shuts off the fill valve and drains the level down until the float switch opens and the DW goes into a 2-second fill/drain cycle.

    The DW is acting as though the control module is not reacting to the closed circuit at the water level sensor and continues to provide power to the solenoid on the fill valve. But how likely is it that two new boards would be bad?

    Another guy on one of these blogs, “Prop,” had a SHU5315 with a Code 4 problem. He replaced the fill valve, the water level sensor, and the control module, and still got a Code 4!

  171. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum,

    From the service guide, from Bosch – “If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed.” (pay close attention to that last part.).

    That sounds like what you described and, I noted in one of your replies that you have to put water in the DW, that it doesn’t want to fill. And, you hear the water solenoid energize.

    THis leads me to believe either the water level switch has a problem, or like the water valve is either 1)clogged, 2)has what is known in the business as an “LPS in it” problem, or 3)water flow from the water supply is limited for some reason (although limited would only take longer to fill.).
    I guess I am confused of the DW’s actions when left to fill water on it’s own, and what happens when you manually put water in it.

    None of the mechanical issues with the water valve are controller board problems, and I doubt you have a bad board because you hear the water valve energize.

    Let me know what you find. Take a look at that Troubleshooting link I posted previously and run the diagnostics.

  172. isktarum Says:

    Thanks again for the quick replies. I don’t actually hear the water fill solenoid energize (not sure what it sounds like), but I do hear the drain impeller turning continuously.

    I am not convinced that water is continuously filling and draining, but rather I think the draining process just doesn’t stop. The dishwasher never proceeds to start the fill sequence.

    I will confirm this when I get home tonight, but I’m fairly certain no new water is entering the dishwasher since the copper pipe connected to the intake remains cold even after running hot water through the tap. And yes, the valve that supplies the water to the dishwasher is fully open.

    Nothing changed with the water supply, so I am thinking it is possible it has clogged all of a sudden with calcium deposits (we have moderately hard water), or something is up with the fill solenoid. I still wonder though, if there is a problem electrically related to the ECM and the wiring (maybe connectors)

  173. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum,

    I’m staking my money on the fill valve being clogged, although the pump should not be running when the water valve is open. And you say the water supply line stays cold even though you know there is hot water at the sink. Good evidence the water valve is either clogged, or not opening due to the coil being bad (although I think you say you’ve checked that.).
    I can’t remember if the valve has an inlet screen on it or not. Precipitated solids clogged in the screen could sure be the problem.

  174. sbk101 Says:

    Hi. Found this on Appliancepartspro repair forum.
    Hope it helps!

    “I would check the water flow valve–There is a screen that could be clogged. If you did want to clean it, then a replacement is around $ 23.95
    Goodluck!
    Kara

    See link:written by Todd below
    Bosch 2042 (and others?) fill valve tip – Appliance Blog Repair Forums

    wapitiscat 
    Member
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    Join Date: Jun 2006
    Location: North Carolina
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     Bosch 2042 (and others?) fill valve tip

    I have a Bosch 2042 that was in the house we bought 8 years ago. I like it even though it’s a little small. About 2-3 years ago, the dishes weren’t getting clean and I traced the problem to a faulty fill valve. This model is a timed fill only so, if the water flow is restricted, there won’t be enough water coming in during the 1 minute fill cycle to adequately clean the dishes. The same symptom occured a few weeks ago and I ordered another fill valve. After removing the water line, I saw that the inlet strainer was clogged with a lot of debris (don’t know from where). Anyhow, I suspected that the fill valve was not bad after all. But, since I was in this far and had the replacement part, I went ahead and swapped it out. Now, I proceeded to dismantle the old valve to see how it works and discovered that the inlet strainer can indeed be removed! It takes some very gentle prying with a small screwdriver and patience. Once out, I was able to clean the gunk off. I reassemble the valve and will try it out should the symptom re-appear in the future.

    Anyway, I wanted to pass this along because I noticed this same situation (clogged strainer) in my original repair job. I remember trying to get the strainer out but gave up. Perhaps this time around I was braver since I had a new one in hand. Maybe I could have saved some money in the first place. If you have a similar model and the tub ins’t filling, 1) it’s probably the fill valve and 2) may be just a clogged strainer on the inlet of the valve.”

  175. MrMark Says:

    I agree with the clogged inlet strainer.

    It happens, and can make what appears to be a control problem, not a be a control problem.

    We sometimes want to blame that which is not always blameless.

  176. MrMark Says:

    For those who don’t want to make the repairs themselves, I have decided that I will repair your board and test for a nominal charge. Please email me at mark.egan at tx.rr.com for specific details. I will turn the board around promptly after receipt, repair, and test.

  177. MrMark Says:

    An alternate email address that you can contact me is BoschRepair at tx.rr.com (replace ” at ” with “@” so the address is all one long address. I do this to prevent spam.).

    Or you can reply here, and I’ll get back with you through the above address.

  178. isktarum Says:

    Hi all, thanks for the replies. I haven’t been able to check anything, as I wasn’t home for about 10 days. However, today when I got home, just for the heck of it, I thought I’d power the dw on, and what do you know, I can hear the water starting to fill…

    The “F” error on the display disappeared and the dw continued and completed a cycle to finally display the magic CL.

    Now…what I am wondering is was the water level switch or float switch stuck and somehow released within the ten days of no use? I am hesitant to be happy that the problem resolved itself, since it could really come back the next time I power the dw on. I have no idea what caused the problem and how it just started working again…

    Interested in your thoughts…

  179. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum,

    The boards require a 15 minute period of no activity to reset from a previous error code.

    Tim on this board is sending me one of his boards (he has 3), after we have dialoged back and forth on a very similar problem. I hope to have Wednesday, and hope to be able to provide some analysis by Friday.

    email me offline at mark.egan at tx.rr.com and we can discuss further.

  180. John Says:

    I have the dreaded “2H” issue others have reported but mine is a bit different. A housesitter accidentally used dish liquid (not dishwasher liquid). The suds triggered the “2H” initially but the machine did at least cycle initially. Then I vacuumed out all the water and ran a test cycle and got a “0.” Assumed all was OK and then ran a “econ” cycle but that ran for over 3 hours (began with a 2H) before I stopped the d/w because I smelled that particular “burnt motor” smell. At the time I stopped the d/w by opening the door I noticed there was no water in the d/w and just a motor turning sound as the door opened. 24 hours later, if I press any cycle button I get a 2h signal but nothing happens. I just hear a low level hum but no water is coming in. After a few minutes I just shut off the machine. In the meantime, I’ve orederd a new control module but now am worried that maybe the motor burnt itself out. Any suggestions?

  181. Paul Says:

    I have a Bosch diswasher model SHE46C06UC/36 about 3 years old, love it but….. this week it is washing as normal, the display counts down goes to a small number like 10 or so then increases to 60 and cycles back several times. I have read about the dreaded over current design relay and self test. I can not find the self test procedure on this website. can anyone post it????

    Thank you

  182. Eric Aceto Says:

    Just wanted to comment on my own experience with a bocsh dishwasher that had many of these symptoms. All problems were solved by a thorough dismantling and cleaning of the various hoses and orifices. Lots of clogged lines. It runs like new now

  183. Marie V Says:

    Hello,
    We have a Bosch SHU5315UC, probably 8 years old. LOVE the machine, but… suddenly the front panel buttons that select the cycle aren’t depressing properly, and don’t start the machine. We’re down to only Economy as of now. Is this something that would be fixed by replacing the infamous Control Module?

    Thanks!

  184. isktarum Says:

    Marie V, the control module sits in a white plastic case which mounts to the upper part of the front cover (see image at top of this forum). The plastic becomes quite brittle over the years, especially with the constant heating and cooling of the machine. Likely what has happened is the tabs that extend out to interface between the buttons you push on the front, and the actual electronic pushbuttons on the module have broken.

    You will likely need to buy a new plastic case (which I think you can buy separate from the module for around $30). But take the front panel off and have a look for yourself to confirm that this is the issue. if so, it should be pretty easy to replace.

  185. Marie V Says:

    So, silly question — what kind of screwdriver, and what size, will work on these screws to remove the panel(s)? Thanks!

  186. Marie V Says:

    Can anyone tell me for sure if a Torx T20 driver will do for taking the panel off a bosch SHU5315? Thanks.

  187. mrproza Says:

    To sbk101 and MrMark.
    I have SHE44C with burn out relay. The old relay is Song Chuan 899-1C-F-C 6V-DC and I can’t find it. What can I use instead?
    sbk101, did you try Tyco T7CS5D-06? With what result?

  188. MrMark Says:

    mrproza,

    Use the Tyco relay, which should be available from Digi-Key. Don’t worry with the Song Chuan. The Tyco is physically and electrically equivalent with a 12 amp rating.

  189. sbk101 Says:

    mrproza,

    I have the tyco relay sitting at home waiting to be installed once the solder repair I did Nov 09 burns out again. I asked the same question before if this tyco relay would work, but never got a definite answer until MrMark’s reply to your post. I researched all the places I could to find a replacement relay with a 12amp rating and the tyco seemed to be the only one. It even has the higher UL rating. I ordered from Dgikey and they also agreed that this would be the replacement.

  190. Marie V Says:

    RE Bosch 5315UC/06 with a broken control panel cover.

    I mistakenly unscrewed the front door all the way down to access the panel. Problem is that the BLUE wires that clip to the control panel (the smaller clip) came unattached from their other point.

    Can anyone advise where to reclip them? A general description would work, I think.

    Thank you!

  191. Tinkerer Says:

    Hi Marie V,
    I have the same machine and have posted an image of the circuit board on Flickr.com (go to the site and either search for “SHU5135UC/U06″ in the Photo section, or “Tinkerer10″ in the People section.

  192. Marie V Says:

    Thanks, “Tinkerer,” but actually I need to know what the OTHER end plugs into.

  193. mrproza Says:

    To sbk101 and MrMark.
    Thank you for inspiring!
    But I didn’t use Tyco relay yet. I’ve done fix myself.
    The pin was heavily burned out (see the picture 1 here: http://sites.google.com/site/bosch2010a/dishwasher) and I didn’t expect that soldering would last long.
    1. I removed relay and soldered insulated wire (around 10 cm long) to the pin.
    2. I drilled at the place A, so that wire may freely go through.
    3. I soldered relay back in place (3 pins: B, C, D).
    4. I soldered other end of wire to plate somewhere close to E (see my drawing 2).
    That’s it. Long wire works like heat dissipater (I believe) and extends pin. I’m at the end of the first week with my fix, and my wife is happy!

    I’ve tried to get service from Bosch. I’ve looked for technician in my area (Montreal) but telephone from web site (in Laval) was down. I called Bosch directly and got another phone number. I’ve ordered to technician the control board. Two weeks later I got no news from tech guy and decided to fix it myself.
    See 3.jpg for connections for SHE44C05UC/36

  194. MrMark Says:

    mrproza,

    Pat’s on the back for your determination to make the repair as you did, and even though it has worked for a week, it’s doomed to fail again. I went through the same thing on my board the first time around, but I didn’t do as much. I just resoldered the wire on the board, and bridged the terminals with a larger piece of wire. Got about a month out if it before it failed again.
    At that point, I unsoldered the relay, then “popped the cover” and inspected the contacts. If you do that, you will find the common reed that supports the contact that switches is discolored, and the contact halves that make up the NO contacts will be carburized and dull. This is a genuine and classic sign of underrated contact failure.
    For all the trouble you went through, ordering, purchase, and replacement of the relay would have been less expensive, less time consuming, and have more long term reliability than the repair you made.
    As for the piece of wire acting as a heat sink, you are entirely correct. But the repair you made was much like thinking a low tire refilled with air doesn’t have a hole in it. It’s just a matter of time before the tire is low again unless the hole is repaired.
    Just my 4 cents worth (or 2.8 cents CDN). :-)

  195. David Wiseq Says:

    Our bosch she4am16uc stops part way through the cycle and has water in it that will not drain.

    How can I check for clogs? How many places can clog in this machine? Is it more likely an electronic problem?

  196. isktarum Says:

    David,

    Part of what you’ve described sounds like the famous relay burnout issue most of us here have experienced; where one pin of one of the relays on the control module arcs and loses connectivity with the board.

    However, it could also be something else.

    There should be a method to “cancel the cycle” by pressing 1 or more buttons at the same time. If you still have your manual, it should describe how to perform this task on your particular model. (some models have a cancel/drain button, some you need to hold Power Scrub + Regular wash buttons, etc). This should cancel the cycle that you’re in, and force draining the dishwasher. If doing this doesn’t drain the water even after the cycle resets, you may be physically plugged up somewhere, or you may want to look to see if your drain impeller is turning.

  197. Mike Callis Says:

    My new Bosch dishwasher is setting a code of E-24. What is this Code

  198. Lori Putnam Says:

    Oh, goodness. It’s me again, formerly of the “ASKO DW recall” thread. With the potential of the TX rebates (which we didn’t get) and the fact that the ASKO was 12 years old AND only one of the two parts involved in fixing the bursts-into-flames-recall problem was available, we decided to just replace. ASKO didn’t care at all with my first call, but then they read my entry here, and could not have been more accommodating in offering to fix or to give me a rebate on a new one.
    That said, we ended up with a Bosch, and had it installed four days ago.
    IT STINKS!
    Literally. It is not really a “burning motor” smell, but a “greasy/oily/motor smell” similar to what you sometimes smell when you step on an elevator. And believe me, describing smells is WAY harder than even describing noises to your car mechanic.

    I called Bosch, and Larry said in his nine years there, he has never heard of this, but he’s “sure it will just go away. After all, there is no oil in the machine.”
    I tried to explain that this was my best description of the smell, and I was not insisting that it was oil, but I couldn’t describe it any other way. He brushed me off.

    I then called Lowe’s, who is happy to send out the same installer, but how can one audit one’s own work? If he felt he installed it right on Monday, I can’t believe he’s going to see something different now.

    I called Bosch back as I didn’t like Larry’s response, and got Margarita. SHE checked with a tech, who asked if it was a “coal/tar” kind of smell. Honestly, I can’t remember, as it isn’t running right now, and smells are hard to pin down.
    If it IS, says the tech, then after 6-7 washes, this smell should dissipate as it is the curing of the bitumen that is happening.

    Cool! I’d buy that.
    And, the tech said, if I really don’t like it, I can get the installer to cure the bitumen himself.
    Now, my installer barely spoke English, so I’m not sure if we can get this idea across to him or not, but Lowe’s is going to try to find out.

    So, after all that fascinating background –
    who else has a new enough DW that they can remember what it smelled like at first, and should I be worried, or will this go away?

    I developed a dog nose in pregnancy that didn’t leave, and believe me, it is no treat to smell things more intensely than others do. If it will smell like this forever, I can’t deal with it.
    If it will go away soon-ish, fine.
    Model is SHX45PO5UC/60, if that helps.
    Thanks, everyone!

  199. Patrick Barry Says:

    Lori, I think I do recall that odor which is the tar layer on the outside of the tank. That was many years ago and I haven’t noticed it since. It’s like new car smell; it goes away.

    We did have a couple control modules burn out on us, but the latest replacement (see posts on Aug. 15 and Aug. 27, 2007) is holding.

  200. david bogie Says:

    My Bosch SHE44 model started to show these symptoms a few days ago. Research led me directly to this site. Thank you ALL for providing valuable information. A call to Bosch customer service was easy and courteous. The part is under warranty. I could spend $120 to pay for the board and DIY or the board would be free to a qualified service tech but I would pay for the service call. I opted for the service guys, people I have used before and trust. Scheduling an appt with them was easy and they knew exactly what I was talking about. They will be out tomorrow to either solder the board to replace it. I shall post an update in a few days.
    While I do not have any hesitation making the repair myself, the economic impact of this thread was a billable service call for a qualified technician.

    david boise ID

  201. MrMark52 Says:

    David,

    Congrats on getting some action, but let me warn you, reflow soldering the bad joint is not acceptable -

    1. If the connection has gotten hot enough to cause the solder to melt and burning of the board, chances are the relay has been impacted too. It had on mine as I was able to open the relay up and found the contacts and floating reed to be discolored due to excessive heat.
    2. The ONLY repair to make, short of replacing the board (which will eventually have the same problem since it does not appear that Bosch has upgraded their design from what I have seen), is to replace the relay.
    3. I will buy the old board from you if the tech let’s you keep it. Email me to BoschRepair at tx.rr.com .

  202. david bogie Says:

    MrMark, update: The boys determined the model already had the 10 amp relays in it so they ran the diagnostics. Turned out to be a bad heat sensor.
    The false indication that it was a bad relay or controller was based on the fact that the water coming in was hot enough to tell the machine the heater was working properly. Toward the end of the cycle, after the water had cooled, the unit just kept pumping water, trying to heat it up, and remained stuck with 1 minute in the countdown display.

    They’ll order the part and come back next week. I pay for the installation, part is under warranty.

    I’ll post another update as the saga unfolds.

    david boise ID

  203. MrMark52 Says:

    To David:

    Thanks for the update, and keep us posted. But seems to me if the heat sensor is good enough to tell the dishwasher it’s OK to start washing, and it’s good enough to tell the dishwasher that the water is not hot enough, so keep going until it get’s hot enough, then the heat sensor is working.
    Now, the heater could be bad, which would cause the same problem you describe (or as caused by the relay problem).
    But I will say this, the 10 Amp relay IS the problem on these boards. It need’s to be 12 amps, and there needs to be a solder bridge applied AFTER REPLACEMENT OF THE RELAY across the set of solder joints that are common to the burned one to help dissipate heat (not a requirement, but what I do when I replace the relay.).

    Keep us posted on the results. I may learn something here myself and will have to rethink the controller program sequence.

  204. sbk101 Says:

    David,

    Did you check the board for the tell-tale sign of relay problem: burnt solder connection? As far as I remember, that was the problem on all the units with the relay problem. Is your waster steaming hot at the point when it shows one minute left? If not its probably the board.

  205. Ken D Says:

    I have a SHU5305 UC/12 (FD 8104)
    I did not see the FD8104 listed here. Will this work on mine?

  206. MrMark52 Says:

    Ken D.,

    From the looks of it, yes as the controller looks the same. But the relay burn is pretty obvious when you open the controller up and look on the back of the relay board.
    Contact me for repairs at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com if you don’t want to do it yourself.

  207. Laurie Says:

    Lori, Partick,

    So glad I found this–we just had a Bosch installed about a week ago and it has that smell–I was just thinking it smells like oil/tar and then I read this–I am hoping it goes away soon? How long does it take?

  208. david bogie Says:

    MrMark and others, UPDATE:

    The boys from Easy’s Repair in Boise ID ordered and replaced the temperature sensor. They made their diagnosis by running the onboard diagnostics and examining the controller. The controller showed no signs of trouble. I am happy to report my SHE44 Bosch dishwaheer is running at capacity and delivering top performance.
    They are familiar with the “solder and relay trouble” on these Bosch machines and assured me my unit (mfr’d 4-5 years ago) had the latest controller available.Total cost was less then $100; part was warrantied, I paid for the service call.

    david boise ID

  209. Paul Says:

    Lori, Partick,

    So glad I found this–we just had a Bosch installed about a week ago and it has that smell–I was just thinking it smells like oil/tar and then I read this–I am hoping it goes away soon? How long does it take?
    ….. Lori, Ours is now 5 years old and still has the “plastic” smell after they cycle. Not as bad as for the first 6 months but still there and noticable.

    Paul

  210. MrMark52 Says:

    To David boise,

    Thanks again for the update, and your efforts have given me a little better understanding of the program inside of the controller board.
    One thing that could have been done (and they may have done it) was to measure the resistance of the thermistor at the connector to the board. From what I can find, all of them should be 55K ohms at 72 degrees F.
    And reading further in the service manual, the thermistor and Hi-Limit switch are replaced as a unit.I am going to bet that the Hi-Limit switch was open (or had failed open), more so than the thermistor being bad. The Hi-Limit being open would allow the operation you described, where the initial hot water charge would allow the wash cycle to start, but when the water needed to heat more as sensed by the NTC, it could not due to the open Hi-Limit.

    Glad you got it fixed though! And the service company deserves a major pat on the back for hitting the nail on the head for their diagnosis. Amazing what happens when the service manual is studied.

  211. mrproza Says:

    To MrMark,
    I finally got control board from Bosch. And I decided to change it. My fix worked more than 4 months. But you were right – fix was temporary. You may see at my photo that wire became dark blue because of heat. I should take heavier wire.
    Time from 142 min in fixed board came to 124 min on Bosch’s board.

  212. mrproza Says:

    Picture us here:
    http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0Yoi_yIteudZTA0NzNhYjctMGEzYS00YTRjLWI1ZjEtYTgzZTY0MDlhZmM5&sort=name&layout=list&num=50

  213. MrMark52 Says:

    mrproza,

    I am unable to see your picture, but if one of the wires burned, it is very likely because of a poor crimp on the end of the wire (If a wire is undersized to the point that it is going to heat up and burn the insulation, it will do so for the length of the wire, not just at the end. A bad crimp connector or or adjoining conductor heating issue will cause the a wire to burn at one end.).
    As for the difference in time between the two boards, that is irrelevant. The total DW cycle time is dependent on how hot the water is coming into the DW, combined with how well the heater is operating. In your case, it sounds as though the heater wasn’t at full output due the resistance at the connector where the wire burned. The shorter time with the new board was because somewhere in the changeover, the resistance became less (probably the new relay in the new board.).
    If possible, either replace the crimp connector or, clean the existing connector as best you can, then solder the wire lead to the connector. This eliminates the high resistance connection which eliminates further burning or heating of the wire.

  214. mrproza Says:

    Here is picture again:
    http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0Yoi_yIteudZTA0NzNhYjctMGEzYS00YTRjLWI1ZjEtYTgzZTY0MDlhZmM5&hl=en&authkey=CLn-vvwD

  215. MrMark52 Says:

    mrproza,

    I understand the “blue wire” now. It’s the blue wire you added, not what came on the dishwasher.

    It looks like one of the blue wires has a poor solder joint at the left hand end, and it so happens that wire looks like it has gotten hot. Which means the 2nd wire is either poorly soldered or is not making connection at all, and all the current is going through the wire that burned. So, it’s either a high resistance through the poor solder joint, or it’s conducted heat from the carburized relay contact where it connects to the land on the board. The wire itself acts as a heat sink, and thus the insulation burns. Again, you can see the wire is sufficient to handle the current as it appears only the left hand end near where is is soldered is where it’s burned (and if the wire were not sufficient, the insulation would be burned the whole length.).
    This board also is also a totally different design from the others I have seen. It’s hard to tell where the relay actually sits with respect to the wires that have been added.
    Bottom line, I would replace the relay with one that has the higher contact rating and you should be good to go. You can probably remove the blue jumpers that you have added, provided you get good connection to the land on the circuit board.

  216. M. A. Dorst Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU5306/UC dishwasher on which I’m getting an “F” code that doesn’t want to go away. I’ve tried stopping the cycle by pressing both Scrub Wash and Delicate; CL comes up on the display, but something is still running within! When I open and close the dishwasher (as if I was restarting the cycle), the “F” comes up again. What’s up with this? Is this the dreaded control panel, or is something more wrong, like a valve? I don’t really want to have to replace this thing, as it does a great job of washing, but on the other hand, I don’t want to get into an endless loop of repair/replace parts either. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for any information you can offer!

  217. isktarum Says:

    M. A. Dorst, I had the same problem after experiencing and fixing the dreaded relay problem. I replaced the relay and then the “F” error popped up. The “F” code supposedly indicates a “Fill” problem, so it could mean that you have an issue with the fill valve. I believe there is a program test that you can initiate on the dishwasher to tell you where the problem exists. I posted that procedure above, several posts ago.

    However, having said all of that, the problem may also be caused by your control module just behaving funny and not doing what its supposed to do.

    My “F” error problem magically went away after leaving my dishwasher unused for 3-4 weeks. If you haven’t already looked at the control module circuit board, I would suggest it worthwhile for you to inspect and even re-solder “suspect” solder points to ensure proper contact of the components. Circuit boards become glitchy when contact points don’t conduct where they’re supposed to. This particular board goes through many heating/cooling cycles, so its understandable that over time and use that the components become stressed.

  218. MrMark52 Says:

    Just a note to those looking to replace their relay and repair the board. I have found some boards use a relay with a different coil voltage.

    In my original posting of the relay P/N above, the board I repaired used a 12VDC coil version of the relay. I have recently received a board that uses the 6VDC version.

    I do maintain a stock of these relays, and I do have some boards available that have been repaired.

    Email me at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com for more detail and information.

  219. Joan Och Says:

    Since school is around the corner, look at Dell with the 13 inch and 15 inch. If you have a costco card go look at the laptops they have at the store. You can buy one you like try it out, if it is not upto your needs return and get another one. They also sell Dells (but I believe it only online and not in stores). I know HPs more "bang for your buck" (but they are a little on the heavy side).

  220. Steve Day Says:

    We have a Bosh Dishwasher, Model # SHU5312UC and had it’s control board replaced last May. It was not heating properly, and had really long cycles, etc. So paid the bucks to get it fixed.

    Now, there is something wrong again. It smells like wires burning and I turned off the machine. Today I tried it again and could smell the burn and also visibly see smoke. Turned it off again. This is not good. I think it’s the control panel again.

    Looks like it went just past a year so probably not covered under the parts warranty. How many times should a consumer have to replace the same parts? There must be some “Lemon Law” that Bosch is not adhering to.

  221. jmc Says:

    It appears that there is a more robust replacement relay:

    875B-1CH-F-S-06VDC

    This puppy will do 20A/120VAC, > 100,000 operations at 11A/240VAC – meaning pretty much forever at 11A/120VAC in a dishwasher. They cost about $2 USD in small qty. The problem is, finding a place to buy only a few.

    See http://www.therelaycompany.com/pcb_range_overview.php

  222. Paul Says:

    Steve,

    I had the same thing happen to me over the past weekend. I thought it was the board, but it was not. The board was fine. Under the dishwasher where the electrical connection is made to the dishwasher fried. I heard this happens when the wire nuts are not properly connected.
    You need to take off the kick plate on the bottom of the dishwasher and take a look under there. The wiring box should be on the right hand side.
    If you attempt to do the wiring yourself make sure you disconnect the plug or turn off the power.
    I was able to cut the bad wiring off and reconnect it all up. Used alot of exposed wire wrapped around the electrical plug with a nice and tight wire nut.
    Hope this helps.

  223. Chris Says:

    I have an 8 year old Bosch Dishwasher and I am trying to take a look at the module. Based on this site, it needs to be soldered or replaced. I removed the door panel, but have not been able to remove the top panel that houses the handle and controls. It is black plastic (I have seen newer models with a stainless steel top panel). This panel flexes a little at the sides, but nothing has released. The top surface of this panel (with the door closed) is very thin and tightly attached to the door inner panel, and this does not seem like the place to pry.

    Also, I am having trouble understanding how the slotted wedges fasten to the door rails. Mine are black, and I have not figured out what they do, or how they are attached. I have read a number of posts, but it is still not clear. Has anyone ever posted a photo?

  224. MrMark Says:

    Chris,

    What Model Bosch is it? On mine, a 4306, the top panel comes off of the door after you remove a screw at each end of the plastic bezel, and 4 screws along the top inside of the door. The bezel also has some plastic latches that hold it on, I believe at each end. You either push or pull on them.

    Steve,

    Good job on locating the problem area. The problem you discovered happens to all electrical equipment and is not a consistent failure like the control module problem is.
    Congrats on your success and letting all on the board know of what you found!

  225. Chris Says:

    MrMark,

    Thanks for responding. It is model SHU5316UC/UC12. The 2 screws at each end of the bezel did the trick. Does your model have the plastic slotted wedges? Do you know what they do or how to reinstall them?

  226. isktarum Says:

    Chris,

    I have an SHU5312 so yours should be quite similar to mine. The black plastic slotted wedges fit into/between the bottom of the front metal face of the dishwasher and the inner part of the door (close to the hinge of the door). I can’t quite remember what function they serve, but likely that it is some sort of structural support function for the door. You may find it helpful to have a second person holding the black wedges in place, also holding the inner and outer faces of the door together while you tighten the screws back into place. If you don’t have a second person handy, you’ll probably find it easiest to hold one side at a time together and slowly work your way up the door with the screws.

  227. Scott Says:

    Have model SHU43C02UC that was on the recall. Finally had control(recall) replacemet done. About a week and half ago. DW working ok except the Power Scrub Plus cycle time went to 78 minutes from it’s pre replacement of 120 minutes. The Regular wash is starting @ 87 minutes. What’s the deal with that?
    I really need a longer power scrub to do my HVAC filters.
    Can I set/control the cycle time for cleaning?

    I searched through the posting here but could not come up with simular question.

    By the way, my repair guy was great. I have no issues with the company.
    And my Bosch DW has served me very well for the last sevenis years.

    Thanks for your time.
    Scott

  228. Louis Says:

    Hello,

    I am not a repairman but feel comfortable enough to change the control panel on my Bosch SHU5312 UC/12 (required due the “2H econo cycle” and the “cycle countdown stuck to 1 minute forever” issues).

    I received the new control panel.
    How long should it take me? (so that I know when to start panicking…)

    Thank you!

    Louis

  229. MrMark Says:

    Louis,

    4 days is about right before you panic.

    But don’t be shy, we’re all here to help. Those of us who have done this many times can change one in about 10 minutes.
    Just take it easy, find some exploded views of your DW (SearsPartsDirect), and just know that you can always buy a new box of smoke (comes in a box about the size of the DW) if you let any out. :-)

  230. Louis Says:

    Thanks Mark!

    I will post my timing performance so that others can see if they do better or worse than an accountant (which I am) who improvised himself as a Repairman.

  231. Hamed Says:

    hello
    i have bosch dishwasher model SGS/46A72/42
    i need software for IC Controler No: M38503M4
    please hellp me . where can i download software
    And How to Update software for this ic?
    Thank you and Best Regards

  232. isktarum Says:

    I doubt that you will find anything online to load on to that IC. What are you trying to do with it?

  233. Magnus Says:

    I write from e UK where I have a Bosch Exxcell SGS4 5E02 GB/45, 6 years old.
    No problems until last week when the programmes became erratic and hung on 41 mins of the 130 mins cycle. The other programs also hang (eg on 14 of the 30 min cycle).
    I read this blog and purchased a control module and changed the old one…..but to no avail – same problem. Water is getting into the machine it seems, and it gets a bit warm.
    Can anyone help?
    1. Does anyone know this machine and how to run a diagnostic test?
    2. Does the story point to another possible cause, such as a faulty heater?
    I am on the verge of buying another one as I have already blown money on the mis diagnosis of a faulty control unit and the engineer + repair may reach a similar cost!
    Thanks in advance from England
    Magnus

  234. troy Says:

    Mine wont run a regular or scrub cycle now, it flashes the lights and clicks.. I am thinking of replacing the control module as well. Weve only had the delicate cycle for a year or two. What are some sources for parts?
    Thanks
    Troy

  235. isktarum Says:

    Magnus – I’m not familiar with your model of Bosch dishwasher so I can’t really help with running the diagnostic test other than I found this link that describes running the test on other models. There might be an odd chance that some combination might initiate the test for yours.
    http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/10/12/bosch-dishwasher-diagnostic-procedures-dishwasher-repair/

    Also, if you’ve already changed out your control module, the problem may be elsewhere. You might on the right trail thinking that if the water isn’t getting hot, the heater may not be working the way it should. Essentially the relay problem that most on this page have experienced is related to the same thing, since the relay switches the heater element on and off. If the temperature of the water isn’t warm/hot enough, the dishwasher just waits and waits and waits until it is. That’s why i believe it gets stuck in a cycle.

    When you received your new control module, did you inspect it to see if it was identical to your original one? Some people have mentioned that replacement control modules are missing a certain jumper connector that exists on their original model, which they have to transfer over to the new one. Just some thoughts.

    —————————

    troy – What model is your dishwasher? What is the exact issue you’re experiencing when attempting to run a regular or scrub cycle? If the delicate cycle runs with no problems, you’ve probably correctly identified that the problem is the control module. Although they don’t ship to Canada (only to the US), the best price I’ve found for a replacement control module is either this site (appliancepartspros.com) or from Bosch themselves. Here’s a toll free number to them: 1-800-944-2904.

  236. Magnus Says:

    Isktarum – thanks for your comments and thoughts. The replacement control module was identical, and so it isna question of my mis-diagnosis. Oh well, ..Bosch have accepted the part back and a friendly neighbour has lent us another machine ASKO which is older and simpler, but frankly seems far more robust in it’s manufacture.
    Thanks again

  237. isktarum Says:

    Well friends, after a couple of years of holding up from relay replacement, resoldering contacts, etc, I believe my control module finally bit the dust for good. My dishwasher keeps getting stuck in drain mode and finally after several minutes of continuous draining, shows “F” on the front display. I am fairly sure that both the drain and the fill components are working fine. After several days of sitting, the dishwasher seems to function OK again, but then it’ll get stuck again (usually at the most inconvenient time for me). So I think I’m going to try my luck and buy and install a brand new control module.

  238. sbk101 Says:

    Isktarum- have you tried Mr Marks fix- putting a higher rated relay on the control module? I would like to know because my unit is working on borrowed time; I resoldered the burned relay connection about a year or so ago and it is working for now. I’m trying to plan ahead when mine goes out again.

  239. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum – From the tech manual -

    “An “F” fault code in the display for SHU/I 53/68 dishwashers shows there’s a filling problem (not filling, overfilling, underfilling or water in the base). The fault code can’t be reset manually – it will reset itself 15 minutes after the dishwasher has been turned on (after testing how it fills).”

    Considering the cost of the other components over that of a new board, I would make darn sure one of them isn’t bad first. And, for the cost of replacement relay, why allow the original relay to continue to degrade the board to the point that the board will not be easily repairable? (I can probably repair badly burned boards but would not recommend a novice do repairs to a badly burned board.).

    Tell us what state the DW is in as relates to the above suggested problems and we can offer suggestion as to what to look for that is failed. The tech manual can be downloaded off the Internet, FYI.

    Just my 2 cents worth.

  240. isktarum Says:

    I appreciate the feedback. My problems started a couple of years ago. I started first by resoldering the failed contact on the original relay about 2 years ago. Then just under 1 year ago, I posted here (you can search my username above) about replacing the relay. I replaced my original relay with this one (which I believe is higher rated than the original):

    http://www.sanyourelay.ca/public/products/pdf/SRD.pdf
    p/n: SRD-S-112D

    Since doing so though, initially the dishwasher had the “F” problem, but went away for about 10 months. About a month ago, the “F” problem returned. The problem clears itself after running a cycle (ie: Rinse) for 15 mins as you say, but this doesn’t solve the problem. Last night I ran a Delicate/Econo cycle, and at 36 minutes remaining the “F” came back. (what happens is that it drains the water for the first part of the cycle, never stops “draining”, and thus never kicks in to start filling for the remaining half of the cycle.

    The only reason I think its still the electronics and not something else is that it seems so intermittent. I was able to run a full cycle on the weekend without any problems, and even last night, initially the water both filled, started washing, and drained for the first part of the cycle.

    If I power the dishwasher back on tonight and set it to “Rinse”, I would predict that after about 15mins, the “F” would go away, and it would start filling to run a normal rinse cycle.

    Electronics I can deal with, but I am kinda useless when it comes to plumbing. Do you still think its something other than the control module? Is there any easy check that I can do without paying $130/hr for a tech to come out and take a look (and probably do most of the things I’ve already tried)?

  241. MrMark Says:

    Isktarum -

    You say the DW fills, washes, then drains, but never stops draining. Does that mean that a) most of the water never leaves the wash tank (down to the filter screen on the bottom), or b) it drains down, but the pump keeps running?

    If a) I would be looking for something preventing the water from freely flowing out of the DW, like a plugged drain port in the garbage disposal (if connected that way), a kinked drain hose, a drain hose that extends too high (>20″) before tying into drain, a partially plugged drain hose, trash in the DW filter screen at the bottom, or below that screen. Anything that would impede the pump is either getting the water to remove, or restricting it from being pumped out.
    If b) then I would be looking for trash under the float switch or a bad float switch. If the float switch does not drop with a fall in water level, then the pump continues to run when there is no water in the DW. There is probably time out logic in the controller software that throws the “F” code if the controller never sees the float drop, or float switch change state.

    You’ve provided good info, but be more specific – what is the DW supposed to be doing, and what is it doing. If the pump is running, then is it draining, if the water valve is on, then is the DW filling, or is it filling too much, etc., etc. Each little indicator gives a clue of whether the problem is electrical or plumbing related.

  242. isktarum Says:

    MrMark, thanks for the reply. To what you described above, it is definately not (a). It is actually much more like (b) where the water drains completely out, the drain pump simply does not stop.

    What you describe sounds quite logical and makes perfect sense. Where is the float switch located so I can check for trash or whether or not its stuck? Can I get to it without pulling the dishwasher forward from under the counter?

  243. MrMark Says:

    Rut roh – this is where the pain begins. :-)

    Most all of the switches can only be accessed by pulling the DW.

    Do a Google search on “SHU_service Bosch” (exactly as I have written). Scroll down to a sight called Foggy something, they will have a link to a Google docs site where you can download a service PDF with cartoons to help you see what you are looking for.

  244. MrMark Says:

    All,

    Another failure that has occurred on my SHU430XX a number of times could be happening to your DW.

    Symptoms are, you load the DW, then press the start button, and nothing happens. No pump, no water, no hum, no nothing.

    I have found that the pump in my DW get’s stuck. Apparently, it is a low torque motor and cannot start when a small piece of food get’s into the impeller.
    To fix, remove the bottom screen, and you can reach into the bottom and feel the pump impeller off to the right down in the bottom cavity. You will feel a hex on the end of the impeller. Sometimes I can break the impeller free with my finger, but most times, I have to get (I think) a 8mm socket and 1/4″ drive. It doesn’t take much of a turn to break free. Close the door of the DW, and try to start again. If the pump runs you got it, open the door, and replace the screen (mine will start running within about 30 seconds of pressing the start button.).

  245. isktarum Says:

    MrMark, Thanks for that piece of advice. It’s important to remember that not all problems we experience with these dishwashers are in fact related to the electronics. I found this out the expensive way.

    If you have a fill error, where the cycle doesn’t complete and your display shows “F”, there’s a small possibility that your control module is FUBAR’d, but more than likely, it’s correctly telling you that you do in fact have a fill error. By removing the front kick-panel, you can access the water-inlet pump. This part is fairly easily removed, with only two screws securing it to the dishwasher, it is connected to a flexible hose on the back. In my case, this fill-pump was leaking, and needed replacing. It likely built up calcium deposits inside over the years (we have fairly hard water) and no longer served its purpose efficiently enough.

  246. Marty Connors Says:

    We’ve got a Bosch she44c dishwasher that had the problem of getting “stuck” at 1 minute remaining in the cycle. It’s fixed now, really fixed, and I thought I would share what I’ve learned.

    On the first attempt we went the route of upgrading the heater relay to a 12A/120V version. Before desoldering the old one I noted that the solder joint looked suspect, almost as if some solder had pulled away from the pin. After replacing the relay (which also required cutting a hole in the plastic case to accommodate the taller part) I ran the test program and all seemed well. I ran a quick wash empty, and all continued to seem well.

    After that, no joy. So one Saturday I went through all the tests on the diag sheet and the failures pointed at the control module. I just couldn’t believe that, as I had just replaced “the” suspect part, so I probed all of the relays with a 9V battery trying to hear them click. WARNING: DO NOT DO THAT. I fried the control module and had to order a new one.

    Here’s where the fun begins. When I replaced the control module and ran the test program, it passed. When I tried a quick wash…… stuck on 1 minute remaining. So I put away the user’s manual and diag sheet, and pulled that sucker out from under the cabinet and hooked up a 4-foot copper line so I could watch the failure.

    With the unit exposed and running, I could hear a lot of clicking coming from the bottom. I noted that the pressure switch was engaging and disengaging throughout the wash cycle. Now since this switch is in series with the heater, the water could never really heat up, giving us what amounted to a false symptom (WATER NOT GETTING HOT).

    I stopped the wash and poured a gallon of water in, and found that the pressure switch remained engaged. NOT ENOUGH WATER was being let in at cycle start.

    I made sure the filter was clear, and then checked the water inlet valve resistance and found it to be 1000 ohms, right on the money according to the diag sheet. But INTERMITTENTLY no water would flow.

    After replacing the water inlet valve, the unit passes test, and completes all cycles. The water gets plenty hot.

    Moral: before you pull out the solder sucker, make sure there’s enough water in the unit for the heater to remain on. $28 later you too may have a working unit.

  247. isktarum Says:

    Hi Marty, thanks for the write-up. Funny enough, I had a couple years of trouble with my dishwasher too, and in the end for me, it also turned out to be an intermittent water inlet valve just as you described.

    Here’s hope for our dishwashers to get back to working again for many years to come!

  248. sbk101 Says:

    Thanks Marty. Things seemed so easy and simple when you could just blame it all on the relay/module. Do you think that the intermittent valve came first, causing the relay to overheat or arch or something causing the solder to pull away?

  249. Marty Connors Says:

    To sbk101

    I wondered the same thing, that maybe the constant switching of 11A by this 10A relay caused it to fail by overheating the solder joint. I do know that the original relay still worked after I swapped it out – I tested it. After seeing the other war stories I just figured that 1) the joint really did look bad enough to fail and 2) the original relay was underrated for the task. I just wish I hadn’t fried the original board because now I’ll never really know the root cause.

  250. sbk101 Says:

    Marty,
    I am not sure if you can answer this- do you think that your problem would have been fixed by replacing the intermittent valve first and leaving the relay alone? The reason I ask is that resoldering the relay fixed my problem (long cycles and water not getting hot enough to sanitize) at least for about 2 years now. But I guess you were hoping for the same outcome; since you didn’t get the result you wanted you went on to the next thing. It would be interesting though to know if the two were related.

  251. MrMark Says:

    All -

    It is my opinion that replacement of the relay IS the only correct solution, not just resoldering. You have to understand what is going on here.
    Once the current carrying components of the relay have gotten hot enough so as to cause the board to burn, they are degraded to the point that they will become intermittent. Heating them back up while resoldering, and/or by resoldering to remake a burned out solder connection, is a temporary fix at best.
    That is not to say that there may be other problems with the DW (bad or failing water solenoid valve, bad of failing heater element, bad or failing temperature sensor, etc.). But rest assured if the board is burned, the relay is failing or will fail, and just resoldering will give a false sense of having repaired the unit.

  252. Marty Connors Says:

    I would agree with MrMark regarding the relay replacement given the condition of the solder joint. My personal failures in this little exercise were to be lazy, impatient, and ignorant. Oh, well. It works now. Next time this happens I’ll know exactly what to do.

  253. Cameron Says:

    Mr Mark: Did I screw something up. Replaced relay with Tyco/Potter Brumfield #T7CS5D-06. Oh yes, Bosche #SHU5312UC/U06.

  254. Cameron Says:

    Mr Mark: Re Bosche Dishwasher #SHU5312UC/U06. I replaced the main relay (the larger of the 3) with Tyco, T7CS5D-06.

  255. Cameron Says:

    Oops, I keep hitting the wrong button, 3rd try here: Repairing control module on a Bosche Dishwasher, #SHU5312UC/U06. I went with the Tyco/BP relay, T7CS5D-06. Put all back together and no power to module. Checked all my solder joints and found a bridge between a couple of passive parts…….maybe from when I desoldered the old relay. Cleaned the PCB with tuner/electronics cleaner. Checked everything again. Re assy and nothing. No power. Checked power switch and it seems to be working find including the door interlock (pins 1&2). Did I maybe fry the CPU or something else when I had the solder bridge. Any way to check the module or am I buying a new one? Appreciate your help.
    Cam

  256. Isktarum Says:

    Cameron,

    You may already be aware but the door interlock prevents power to the board if not closed. As in, if the dishwasher door is “open”, power to the unit is shut off.

  257. Eliza Says:

    Hi,
    I have a Bosch (SRU53E05AU) slimline dishwasher which has not been heating up properly. I noticed when we first tried the Intensive Cycle that it went for 3 hours and thought that was too long. Little did I know that it was only meant to go for 1 hr 43 mins!! WE have always used the Normal Cycle which goes for a bout 3 hours (which is only meant to go for 2 hrs 20 mins) The dishwasher became a real problem when we noticed that there was mould growing inside and the dishes weren’t warm after a load. We just had a repairman out who advised me that the ‘control module’ needs replacing. Has anyone else had this same issue?! I wish now that I contacted Bosch right from the beginning when it was under warranty1 Aghhh! now it’s going to cost about $350 all up!

  258. Isktarum Says:

    Eliza,

    Bosch has used an under-rated relay on their control modules for years before they admitted to it before issuing a recall on certain models. It would be a good idea to call Bosch to check of your dishwasher is included in that recall.

    Your problem sounds similar to what many of us on this forum have experienced. Yes, the control module can be a source of your problem with no heat. No heat causes the logic in the module to “wait” until the water is heated before continuing a cycle, thus making your normal cycle take way longer than normal.

    Your problem could also be the heater itself, but if you’ve had a pro come by and tell you it’s the module, you can start there. It’s an expensive part, so you’ll want to be sure it’s the module. On the other hand, it’s an easy part to change so it’s an easy place to start as well.

  259. Cameron Says:

    Isktarum:

    Yes, I know about the interlock feature. I did take the whole top panel out and manually tripped the latch. The continuity change on the first two pins of the power switch so I believe it to be working fine. Are their any fuses in the dishwasher? Maybe in the bottom section. I’m wondering if I somehow blew a fuse before I found the solder bridge.
    Cam

  260. Cameron Says:

    Anyone? I found the schematic tucked into a tray under the dishwasher. Still no apparent power to the control module. Still wondering what may have happened and I was wondering if there is a way to confirm that power is getting to the control module. I did not see a fuse in the schematic or anywhere.
    Cam

  261. MrMark Says:

    Cameron,

    Check the obvious first, and that is, is there power coming to the DW?

    Depending on what pins you bridged, you certainly could have fried the board and if you are lucky, it only blew out the transformer secondary. That’s the (possibly) black box looking, heavy thing in one corner of the board away from the 3 relays.
    And from the troubleshooting guide, there is a jumper that should slide onto one end of the board. If you pulled it off, you need to reinstall it.
    I do have a NOS board here that I believe is for your DW. Would be happy to sell to you for a lot less than a new Bosch one, with the relay upgrade. Email me at Boschrepair at tx.rr.com. Otherwise, you might want to start shopping for a new board.

    MM

  262. An789 Says:

    I have a model SHU43C06UC/22 and does not sanitized at the end anymore.
    I can get it to run down to 1 minute and never finished. The only program that runs fine is the short one, because it is Rinse and Hold. It looks like it is incapable to warm up the water. I guess it’s the control unit fault but I cannot find a control unit for it. Would you suggest us the right one please? I looked for in so many websites but not found the specific one. Thanks.

  263. MrMark Says:

    An789,

    You’ve got the same controller as I have, and many of the others who have posted on this site have. And with what you have described, you are having the dreaded failed relay problem.

    You can repair using instructions I’ve posted on this page (above), or I will be happy to repair for you. Email me at boschrepair “at” tx.rr.com .

  264. An789 Says:

    Thanks Mark for your answer
    Is the relay inside the control unit?

  265. MrMark Says:

    An789,

    Yes, behind the buttons you use to tell the dishwasher what cycle to wash. To access, you open the door and remove the 4 screws across the top, and 1 at either end. Going back to the front with the door closed, carefully jiggle the panel left and right to release the two plastic clips that hold the panel tight to the door. Careful, or you will break them.
    That will expose the inner workings of the controls panel/on-off switch. While there are no exposed electrical live parts at this point, if you are not comfortable working with electrically powered equipment, then disconnect the power before removing the panel above, or proceeding to take the controller assembly out.

    MM

  266. An789 Says:

    Thank you so much MrMark, it works now : )

  267. MrMark Says:

    The thanks are appreciated, but we didn’t do anything to fix it.

    If it started working again and you didn’t replace the relay, then chances are, the it’s bad. Very typical for when these relays fail. One cycle they work, the next cycle, they don’t.

  268. An789 Says:

    We soldered where the relay was burnt in the circuit in and now it works. My husband put a little extra lead, so it should last longer.. what do you think?

  269. An789 Says:

    Actually we are going to change the relay next time, as you suggested.. but this time we were in a hurry and he started fixing that way.

  270. MrMark Says:

    An789,

    If you have followed some of my previous comments on this thread, you will know that the repair he made is only temporary.

    :-)

    MM

  271. spearchucker Says:

    With the help of MrMark, I have a dishwasher that works great. His relay fix is perfect, and it makes sense because they tell you to test the incoming voltage if your heater might be failing. If it reads 11A then its good, meaning its drawing current. to have a 10A relay on this circuit doesn’t really seem to work. I highly recommend Mark to anyone with a washer that wont finish a cycle, or with any other symptom. He saved me a ton of money, because I had already bought a new board a month ago, and that one failed within the month. I couldn’t return it to where I bought it because im not a technician and I already installed it. According to them, I did it wrong. So be warned, just because Bosch has a recall on these boards, doesn’t mean you cant still receive a nice new shiny board that dose the same thing the old one did. I don’t know if it came from Bosch, or it sat on a suppliers shelf for a while before I got it, but the only reason it works now is because Mark fixed it up and now its working perfect.Cheers Mark

  272. MrMark Says:

    spearchucker,

    Thank you for the kind words!

    To all, I might clarify one of spearchucker’s points -

    If the relay contacts are bad or the board is burned as is mentioned in this post, you will not see the 11 amps spearchucker mentions. I have seen many relays, spearchuckers included, that there was very little evidence of carburized burning on the board, yet spearchucker at least noticed that the dry cycle would never end, and the water never seemed to get any hotter than it was when it went into the DW.

    Again, my thanks to spearchucker. I was only too glad to help.

  273. Eliza Says:

    So after about 5 weeks of waiting for the control module part to arrive we now have our dishwasher up and running again! Now we have another problem – wish things were a bit simpler! When the cycle changes (about 8 minutes to be exact into the cycle) it makes a horrible vibration noise (which makes the TV fuzzy). It only lasts a few seconds but happens about 6-8 times during the whole cycle. It never used to do this – something doesn’t seem right. Has anyone experienced this? It sounds like it’s coming from the bottom of the dishwasher when it’s draining? Any help with this would be appreciated! cheers :)

  274. MrMark Says:

    Eliza,

    With a new board, I can only think of two things that would give a noise like you describe, and that’s the pump motor or the water valve. But the fact that it makes the TV fuzzy is a little disconcerting.In order to see a reaction on the TV, some form of radio frequency waves must be generated and sent either over the air, or injected some how into the power line. Either that or the TV and DW are on the same circuit and the voltage level is marginal.

    You need to better isolate where the noise comes from. The pump is generally over near the front right of the DW. The water valve I believe is over to the left side. I know it sounds hard and most people have a problem locating things by sound in tight places, but your gonna have to do it for us to give you more help. Keep in mind the noise could be coming from the board. It doesn’t make sense that it does, but then things that break don’t always have specific known modes of failure. Take the relay problem – some relays burn internal to the relay only, others burn the board, and yet others burn the relay and the board. It’s the same failure in function of the board, but the visual indicators are different.
    In your case, we need to know specifically where the noise comes from (pump, water valve, and the unlikely board, if not other area of the DW) for us to get a better idea of what to tell you to look for.

    Am surprised it took 5 weeks to get a new board. But one thing I am 99.99% sure of, and that is the new board will have the relay failure/board burn mentioned on many of the posts of this blog.

  275. Eliza Says:

    Hi MrMark,

    Thanks for your reply. When looking at the dishwasher the noise seems to be coming from the left – is that the inlet valve? It’s just strange that the noise started happening after the control module was fit?

    The Melbourne depo had no control module parts available for this particular model so we had to wait for the shipment to arrive from Germany. Then once it arrived in Melbourne it had to be sent to Brisbane.

    So do you believe that we will have another problem with our control module part even though it’s a new one?

    I don’t remember having so many issues when I was growing up with our dishwasher – we had a dishlex though.

    After about 5 washes there still seems to be a slight mould smell.

    The joys of owning a dishwasher I guess!

  276. MrMark Says:

    Eliza,

    It’s probably the valve, or something has gotten against the valve that vibrates when the solenoid is powered. If you slide the DW out of the cabinet, you can better determine where the noise is coming from. And if you remove the side panel, you can determine if it’s the valve making the noise or something up against it vibrating.

    That’s a shame on the time. Oh well. Assuming the timer was being replaced because of the burned relay/board issue, you would have been better off to replace (or have replaced) the relay.

    As for the noise happening now after the board is replaced, there is nothing the board can make the DW do that would cause the noise, other than doing it’s job of powering things like the pump motor, or water, or drain solenoid.

    As for the mold smell, well, the dishes can smell no worse than the water coming in and the food that was on the dishes. Now, if the DW drain hose is not properly routed, residual gray water could remain in the DW, and over the past 5 weeks of non use, could have gotten kind yucky. It may take a few cycles to get rid of any yuck. If this is the case, you would be wise to route the drain hose correctly.

    MM

  277. Eliza Says:

    Hi again!,
    We had a guy come out to fix the noise – he tightened the facier that sits below the dishwasher however it is still making the same sound! For some reason it stopped making it when he was here after he had tightened it but the next dishwasher load it came back and is still going since. Is it possible to email you the sound it makes as I just recorded it on my phone. It doesn’t happen straight away when the draining starts. I would say it makes the noise about 5 seconds after that and then the draining happens again. Sort of in between when the dishwasher is changing cycle.
    Cheers,
    Eliza

  278. DM Says:

    Bosch 5302 dishwasher. It was stuck on 2H. Replace control module and now when you I start it up it stays on 86 regardless of what I do. Did sound like it was going to run but then got stuck on 81. Any suggestions?

  279. Elisabeth Tsinnie Says:

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  280. Tasse Says:

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  281. NigelG Says:

    Just wanted to add my thanks to MrMark who responded rapidly to my e-mails and then shipped me the replacement relay FedEx overnight on short notice. He definitely went WAY BEYOND what I would consider excellent customer service. I only wish more companies acted with as much care and attention to detail as he showed me.

  282. Danl Says:

    Thank you MrMark, sbk101 & others. I replaced the burned pin relay with Tyco, T7CS5D-06 in my SHU43C02UC/22. That fixed the never ending cycle problem!

  283. MrMark Says:

    Congrats Danl! Although I am a little surprised that it was the -06 and not the -12 for that timer. Make sure you got the right one or the driver chip may not be happy for long.

    MM

  284. Danl Says:

    Yep, the original was 6v. I waited til it ran a dozen cycles to be sure its really ok. Thank you again!

  285. Wendy Says:

    Hi-

    We have a Bosch dishwasher Model SHX 46A 05UC, serial number FD 8603 02685 and I am at about wit’s end. We have had this unit for about five years and for the past month (at leastt) it will take about 4 hours to work through a cycle. In addition to this frustration, there is a white grime on many of the dishes and they don’t seem to be as clean as usual. I tried cleaning out the dishwasher with a vinegar solution and then didn’t work. I also tried using the Finish dishwasher cleaning product and only a small bit was released from the container, which leads me to believe our water is not getting hot enough. Could this be the control panel or do you have any other suggestions? Any help would be much appreciated.

  286. MrMark Says:

    Hi Wendy -

    Chances are the white stuff is a result of the DW not getting hot enough. But let’s take things one at a time to get the DW up and running again.

    I can tell you with 100% confidence that the control board in your DW has the relay problem (unless you have sent it to me previously for repair, which I don’t think you have.). Let’s get that fixed first.
    Some DW detergents do have some “heat activated” characteristics that allow them to dissolve completely. If the water isn’t getting hot enough, then this is what you may be seeing on the dishes.

    Email me at boschrepair “at” tx.rr.com and we can work out getting your board fixed.

    MM

  287. Wendy Says:

    Thank you so much for your quick reply. I will email you now.

  288. appliancejournal Says:

    Sorry for all the spam comments. All have been removed! :)

  289. Francois Says:

    I have a Bosch dishwasher SHU43C02UC17; will this controller fit this dishwasher?

  290. Erik Says:

    I’ve also had problems with long cycle time, residue, and lately, the sanitized light has not been going on. I thought I’d pull the control unit to check for the burned out contacts but found none. What I did find was a black wire (in the middle part of the fascia)that was connected to nothing. There was a three contact clip that only had two wire connected, so I connected as well as I could the black wire to the empty connector. Low and behold the dishwasher started cleaning normally. Two days ago, I again had residue. Opened the fascia, and the black wire was off again. Is this coincidence? I just tried again to connect it up, and fingers crossed that it fixes it. Any idea what this wire is, or where I can get a wiring diagram of the whole front fascia panel? Thanks! Erik

  291. akatwn Says:

    First off, many thanks to appliancejournal.com and the many posters to this thread. Only with the help of this thread was I able to fix my Bosch 5315 which had experienced the burnt control module at the heater circuit.

    While researching this topic on the web, I came across the diagnostic self test procedures / codes for various Bosch dishwashers at the following link: http://www.applianceaid.com/boschDW.html I ran the self test and it validated that the heater fault with a code of “2″.

    Instead of trying to solder the damaged circuit, I replaced the entire control module.

    The only problem I ran into was reassembling the door…the top panel containing the control module and the front door panel. After much trial and error, I discovered that inserting the front door panel into the top panel first, then inserting these two parts together at once into the door frame worked. I was able to line up the entire front panel assembly with the door frame and push it over the white door supports with not too much effort, fell right into place. I used the small cardboard box which the new control module came in to wedge the door open from the top, then set the box underneath one side of the door so I could use both hands to press the door assembly together and line up the torx screw holes.

    I’m slow and methodical, so disassembly took me about an hour, and reassembly took me about one and a half hours (+ 1 hour round trip drive to pick up new control module at local appliance parts house).

    Good overall repair experience thanks to this site, and saved time and money for a repair service call.

  292. Danman Says:

    We’ve had the U-06 dishwasher since, I believe, 1999. About a year ago we had the “F” code come up and I found the re-solder the relay advice somewhere which fixed it for a year. A couple weeks ago the “F” code came back and I found your site and ordered the recommended replacement 12A relay. Installed it yesterday and the machine is up and running again. Thanks to MrMark for the great relay replacement advice. Hopefully we can keep this machine going for another 10 years.

    On a side note, it does appear that Bosch has some liability for installing a 10A relay in units that draw more than 10A. If anyone on the West Coast has had this problem and is interested in possibly representing a class in a class action email me at dan@nwprolaw.com.

  293. Tom Says:

    I posted a question to a forum yesterday, but I don’t know where it went! So, I’ll repeat it here. I just replaced the No. 661682 module on my Model SHE46C06UC/40 dishwasher, but the TIME lights (LEDs) do not come on. The dishwasher seems to run OK, but I have no reference as to the running time. How can I bring the time back? Tom (Mr. Goose)

  294. Bill Suzor Says:

    You must always follow the directions to program your controllers to the model # or you may have missing/incorrect features.

  295. Tom Says:

    Thanks, Bill. Can you tell me where I can find the information to program the 661682 controller module for my SHE46C dishwasher?

  296. Bill Suzor Says:

    Came in the box with the unit. Call the mfg and see if they can get you directions. I couldn’t recite the process to you because there are different models and versions. I have similiar in stock if you are stuck.

  297. Tom Sanor Says:

    Bill, my Part No. 661682 Control Module came directly from Bosch with nothing else in the box. Bosch folks say they don’t know anything about Programming Instructions. Can you send me a copy? I’ll gladly pay postage, or perhaps you can email it to me. My wife says the machine also doesn’t “wash” on REGULAR WASH (only rinses). It washes only on POWER SCRUB PLUS. Thanks, Tom

  298. Isktarum Says:

    Tom,

    Make sure you used the jumper from your old board. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, there’s a small white jumper connector probably with a red wire in it that you’ll see on your old board that your new board didn’t come with. You’ll have to pull that off the old and plug it into your new board for things to work correctly.

  299. Tom Says:

    Thank you, Isktarum. I went ahead and bought a new relay to repair the old board (and now everything works perfectly). The update is that TYCO is now called TE CONNECTIVITY, and I bought it at Mouser Electronics (because I couldn’t figure out how to place an order on the Digi-Key website). For the relay with the 6v coil, Mouser’s part number is 655-T7CS5D-6, and for the 12v coil it is 655-T7CS5D-12. You will recognize the last part of those numbers as the old TYCO part numbers. Interestingly, the new relay says POTTER & BRUMFIELD and has the same part numbers printed on the relay. These are the 12 amp relays. Cost is under $1.50 each.

  300. Torie Says:

    Hi! Great helps on these pages. We have a Bosch SHE53L06UC/47. It has worked great for about two years. Lately the timer has gone from an Economy Load time of 73 minutes to 129 minutes but even then it sometimes resets to a higher time mid wash. One day this week it was at 12 minutes remaining when we left the house. When we returned an hour later it was at 15 minutes. I just opened it after running 30 minutes and the water is cold. Is this a control module issues? Tap water is hot. I recently cleaned everything I could get to inside the tub.

    Thanks
    Torie

  301. Danl Says:

    Torie
    Although that’s a different model, please review the posts from,
    - MrMark52 August 28th, 2009: [symptoms/analysis]…Tyco relay T7CV5D-12, available from DigiKey
    - sbk101 December 5th, 2009: … replacement relay: Tyco T7CS5D-06
    - Jon Koerber August 26th, 2009: installation tips

    Dan

  302. Roger Says:

    Hi, I have a SGV59T03GB/10 which has worked perfectly for the 4 years that we have had it from new. It all started the other day when the drain motor was constantly running even with the front door open. after reading some of the posts I removed the left panel to find the float and water ducts was heavily covered in lime scale, this has now been cleaned and tested, however I now have A problem with the control panel which either shows C3 on the LED or occasionally 64 with all the lights on. not sure if I have caused this by pressing too many buttons or if I have an actual fault.
    Kind regards
    Roger

  303. Jim Says:

    I must say this repair was very fun, I have to thank all contributors for detailed instructions. So far I’ve taken the “solder with a copper wire heat sink approach”. The dishwasher worked for 9 years up until this failure, so I’ll cross my fingers. It’s back to functioning today and that alone is worth thanks–Jim

  304. Rebecca Says:

    Hello,
    I have a Bosc Model SHU5315UC/U12. Problem like everyone else – it stays on 2H for hours. Never seems to rinse. Residue on dishes. Bad smell when hoses drain on startup. I don’t want to try to resolder the board. I want to try to replace the circuit board myself but want to be sure the part # is correct. Is it: Part Number: AP2802870? And is it a straight-forward replacement or will i need to do reprogramming of the board, etc? I guess I am trying to determine if this is do-able if you are not a Bosc repairman?? Thank you.

  305. Tovey Barron Says:

    I have a Bosch SHE44C02UC/46 dishwasher. I recently discovered that my dishes weren’t getting clean and realized the machine wasn’t heating the water. After some investigation I purchased and replaced the control unit.

    My first experiment was to run on the normal full cycle. The machine started and indicated it would run for around 150 minutes. Over approximately the next hour I kept opening the door to check the water temperature and each time was disappointed to find cool water. Eventually, assuming the new control unit hadn’t fixed the “no hot water” problem I decided to end the experiment, so I stopped the cycle with the power button. However, I wanted to be sure the dishes would be rinsed, so I restarted the machine using the Quick/Short cycle thinking it would do a quick cycle, rinse the dishes and I’d be done. However, midway through the quick cycle I discovered the water had gotten hot.

    At first I thought “Hooray”! Then I began to wonder about hot the heat is applied… Why didn’t the water get hot during the full cycle? Did I not wait long enough? I will do another test tonight using the full cycle. Hopefully the water will get hot at some point during the cycle… but the questions is:

    How long should I expect the machine to wash on cool water before the water gets hot? Is the machine programmed to run cool for a while in order to rinse the food particles off the dishes prior to finally heating the water? How long should that cycle of cool water last?

  306. Tovey Barron Says:

    Following my earlier post I reread the user manual and discovered the machine takes whatever water is available at the inlet and heats it during the wash cycle. Of course, if the temperature of the water fed into the machine is cool it will take the machine longer to heat it up to operating temperature. That explains why some people (myself included) complain that their cycle times (whether standard or Power Plus)are longer than expected.

    The manual actually gives estimates of around two hours for a regular cycle, but when I start my machine it always shows around 150 minutes or longer. The fact is, on my machine this is due to the cooler temperature of the water at the inlet. My situation is aggravated by the fact that we have an on-demand hot water heater. This means that if I start the dishwasher cycle when going to bed, it is likely we haven’t been using the hot water, resulting in a delay in getting hot water to the dishwasher whilst the water heater heats the water. Eventually the water heater provides hot water, but my guess is that by the time the hot water finally arrives at the dishwasher inlet, the machine is mostly full of the cool water that was flushed out of the feed pipe.

    My next thought was, the hot water inlet pipe feeding any dishwasher is likely full of cool water. Thus, if the dishwasher gauges the cycle time by the hot water inlet temperature, then it will always be doing the calculation based on the cooler water sitting in the inlet pipe, resulting in a longer than expected cycle time. I wondered whether I could shorten the cycle time by pre-heating the water… by running hot water in the sink prior to starting the dishwasher cycle. Thus, getting the on-deman hot water heater to heat the water.

    I got hot water at the sink, then started the dishwaswer, but the cycle time was still 150+ minutes. Hmmm… could it be that although there was hot water at the sink, the water in the pipe leading to the dishwasher inlet was still cool… so the machine still judged my inlet water as cool? If so, who has a dishwasher with an inlet pipe that has hot water in it? I should think that the dishwasher shouldn’t judge the water temperature until the machine is full of water and ready for the cycle to start. If it doesn’t do this, then it seems like a flaw.

    Any thoughts about this…?

  307. MrMark Says:

    Tovey,

    You’ve done some good investigation, but when it gets right down to it, you’ve got a board or heater problem.

    1st, if you have a properly sized for kitchen use “on demand” water heater, then.the DW should be getting enough hot water.
    2nd, Typical residential hot water temps are in the area of 120 degrees. The DW needs to see 180 degrees to sanitize and dry the dishes.
    3rd, the DW does not “read” the inlet water temperature, so does not take that into account when heating the water. The “150 minutes” reading is the anticipated amount of time needed before the end of wash. If you look at the reading 5 minutes later, it will still be 150 minutes, from that point, not from when you first looked at it (assuming the heater is not working.). The DW looks at the water temperature only in terms of meeting 180 degrees, regardless of incoming water temperature.

    If you have repaired the controller board and are still having problems, I would recommend replacing the relay (a relay that has heated enough to burn the board will be highly suspect.). You may also have a bad heater, or a bad thermistor (the sensor that reads the water temperature.). You could also have a bad flow switch.

    If you have the service manual, it will explain how to test each of these components. But in the end, my bet is on the board/relay being bad.

  308. Tovey Barron Says:

    Mr. Mark:

    Thanks for the response. I hope you’ll humor me by allowing me to paraphrase my understanding so you can correct any mistakes…

    You’re saying the machine doesn’t read the inlet temperature. If so, then I’m guessing the machine estimates (and posts) the cycle length based on characteristics it reads from sensors. Next, no matter the temperature of the water, the wash overall cycle starts. I’m guessing the machine then starts heating the water and, based on when the water reaches 180 degrees, finally starts counting down the cycle time. This would mean the posted cycle time wouldn’t climb upward based on the cooler inlet water temperature, but rather would stay static until the heated water reached 180.

    I’m sure I’m missing some aspects, because this doesn’t explain how my machine would complete a cycle (however long) when the water was never getting heated. If following the above scenario the machine would never finish a cycle because the temperature would never reach 180 and the counter start counting down.

    Some of these are very basic aspects of dishwashers, but without understanding them it’s harder to diagnose problems.

    In any case, replacing the control unit seems to have done the trick. The water is now being heated.

    Thanks.

  309. MrMark Says:

    Tovey,

    Your on the right path and have pretty well nailed the operation.

    The one variable here that makes it confusing is the bad relay, and not knowing if there is a programmed timeout in the micro controller firmware.

    The way these relays fail, is not like a light bulb burning out. They fail intermittently where they will work one time, and not the next. Or they may work 2-3 times in a row, and not the next, to only Work again the next time you try it.

    This intermittant operation misleads you in determining how the cycle works.

    As for any timeout feature regardless of water temperature, from everything I have read of others experiences, I believe there is one. But sense the controller is preprogrammed and there is no reason to read it, it doesn’t matter, as again, For every board I have been sent to repair, I open the relay up to see if it is bad. I have replaced the relay in some 50 boards, and every one of them, I could pinpoint the failure as originating with the relay, progressing to melting of the solder joint as a result of carburized contacts in the relay (typical of an undersized relay.).

    With the new board, you will eventually have the same failure. It may take on a different appearance, but it will be caused by the relay, and replacement will get it back in operation again.

    Keep me in mind should it happen. I will be glad to replace the relay in both your old board, and your new board (although it is unlikely that you will ever need the spare control unless your house gets hit by lightning. :-) ).

  310. Paul Says:

    Hi,

    I have a Bosch SHE33M02UC that takes about 3.5-4 hrs to complete the Regular cycle. At the end of the cycle, when I open the door the temperature inside does not seem very hot and soap is left on the dishes. I’ve tried entering the model number at AppliancePartsPros but nothing came up. Any help is appreciated.

  311. MrMark Says:

    Paul,

    You’ve probably got a bad or failed relay in the controller board as is indicated in many of the posts above. It could be a bad heater, temperature sensor, or flow switch also, but I would bet my money on the relay.

    Email me at Boschrepair at tx.rr.com and I can provide you with more detail on the repair.

  312. Paul Says:

    MrMark,

    Thank you for the reply. I have found many sites mentioning a failed solder joint on the heater relay in the controller board. This evening I took the controller panel and controller board out and sure enough on the back of the board I found the failed solder joint. I re-soldered it, put everything back together and ran a regular cycle. I’m happy to report that it worked. I realize that this will not last but the wife was getting quite upset without the diswasher. Next time it happens I will have to send the board to you for the proper fix. I have already contacted you via email to get the details. Thanks.

  313. MrMark Says:

    Paul,

    I understand, if mama ain’t happy, no one is happy. But don’t wait too long to get to have the relay replaced. The relay will always fail, without warning, when the dishwasher is needed the most (which tends to be when the dishwasher is full of dishes.).

  314. Greg Says:

    I have just purchased a new control module for Bosch dishwasher Model SHU5306UC/UC12. It did not come with any instructions as to how to program the control panel. How can I get this information?

  315. isktarum Says:

    Greg,

    You shouldn’t need to program the module. Make sure to take the white jumper block connector off your old module, and plug it into the same slot on your new module before you install it and power it up. That should be all you need to do.

    The connector I’m talking about is a 4-pin-wide white connector with probably a red jumper wire (mine was at least) connecting two of the pins out the back.

  316. MrMark Says:

    Greg,

    Isktarum is correct. The modules are preprogrammed.

    But please note, not all timers have the jumper he spoke about. If your old one had the jumper (which is a red wire on a white plugin header), then it MUST be taken from the old timer and used on the new timer.

    If you still have your old timer, send me an email to Boschrepair at tx.rr.com. I would be happy to purchase it from you, or alternatively, I will replace the relay for you and return so you can have it available when the relay in the new timer fails.

    MrMark

  317. Guan Says:

    MrMark,

    I would like to thank you for the quick turnaround repair you did to the relay on my control module of my DW SHU5302UC/U06. The DW display showed “2H” in all the wash cycle settings when I ran the DW for the first time after I installed the control module after it was repaired. The display also would not count down until near the end of the cycle when it was in the drying phase. I was first confused when the display would not count down. After MrMark explained to me that the next time I use the DW with the same setting, the display would show and actual time like ’89′ and then started counted down. This was what happened last night when I used my DW for the second time on the Delicate/Econo cycle setting. My dishes were clean when the DW displayed “CL”. I would highly recommend MrMark for the quick repair work.

  318. Erik Says:

    Hi all,
    I’d been having problems with my Bosch SHU43C02UC/22 for a while. In a previous post I mentioned how every time I opened the fascia to look at the control module, it seemed to work (i.e. regular wash times and sanitized light on at end of cycle) as opposed to running forever and not being sanitized. I even had a tech out who said it was the water heater going bad. I have never found any burnt solder, but before I committed to a large repair bill (water heater replacement requires machine to be removed and flipped upside down to access)I looked at the board one more time. While there was no melted or singed solder, I did notice that the plastic around the normal problem area was discolored, though the soldered contacts looked perfectly normal. I decided that the risk was worth it, so I ordered a replacement board, and low and behold it worked, and has been doing double duty of the holidays with no problems! So, even if you cannot find burnt contacts, that does not mean the board is not bad. I took the board in to the local parts shop, and they thought it looked fine. I then showed them under a bright light the discolored part, and they said they had never seen that. Thanks to the board for convincing me to try this before an expensive repair that would not have worked!

  319. Isktarum Says:

    Erik, glad you found a solution to your problem. Sometimes solder can crack at a microscopic scale and can cause non-visible problems like the one you had. This can also lead to intermittent connectivity of the said contact. Sometimes, a solution to such a problem can be re-soldering individual contacts to reinforce and “clean up” the contact.

    Buying a new board works too but costs a little more! :)

    Don’t forget, there’s a lot of heat in that area; plastic gets brittle and changes color over time under these conditions.

    ~isk

  320. MrMark Says:

    Erik and Isk,

    The reality of this problem is, the plastic (or really the fiberglass board that the circuit board is made from) shouldn’t get that hot. While I have repeatedly said the relay is undersized, and I still stick with that theory, it could also be that the cross section of the copper may not be adequate in the area of the land that makes connection with the relay pin (the less cross section, the higher the resistance, the hotter the copper gets.).

    If the repair shop didn’t replace the relay, your doomed to have the problem again. From all the boards I’ve replaced the relay, many of them had no sign of burning or “microscopic” fractures of the solder. And upon opening the relay, some didn’t show heat discoloring of the reeds that support the contacts. But looking at the contact, you could see carburization, which is relay failure.

    On another note, these heaters don’t tend to be intermittent as they go out. They may “flicker” once, at most twice, but when they go, for the most part, they go.

    And finally, higher current through the relay can be caused by one of two other problems – 1) low input voltage to the DW, and 2)a partially shorted heater.

  321. Torie Carlson Says:

    Update on Bosch SHE53L06UC/47. My previous post from Sept 4, 2011:
    “Great helps on these pages. We have a Bosch SHE53L06UC/47. It has worked great for about two years. Lately the timer has gone from an Economy Load time of 73 minutes to 129 minutes but even then it sometimes resets to a higher time mid wash. One day this week it was at 12 minutes remaining when we left the house. When we returned an hour later it was at 15 minutes. I just opened it after running 30 minutes and the water is cold. Is this a control module issues? Tap water is hot. I recently cleaned everything I could get to inside the tub.”

    So….My friend, who is an installer, took it to his friend, who is a repair guy. They ran some tests and decided everything was fine. $100 later and its back in my house and the initial load comes up the same. In the meantime I had my hotwater tank turned up and drains checked. So it seems I am back to square one and $100 poorer. I will take the control module out to check. Any other thoughts?

    Thanks
    Torie

  322. Phil Hunt Says:

    I have a Bosch SHX43C05UC/50 dishwasher and the sanitizer light does not light towards the end of the cycle. My research has indicated that others have experienced the same problem and that the culprit is that the water is not getting hot enough, is this true? Also if the issue is the water temperature being too cold then would this be resolved by replacing the Thermistor or the Circuit Board in the dishwasher door? I cannot find anywhere where it explains what each of these compenents do and which one controls the water temp. I cannot believe the heating element is the problem.
    Thanks

  323. Michelle Says:

    I seem to be having the same problem with my SHE44C0. Can you point me to the right control module for that machine?

  324. Stephen Says:

    I too had success replacing the relay on a Bosch SHX46A 05UC/35 dishwasher. I had soldered the burned out joint a year ago, but then the relay (Song Chuan 899-1C-F-C 6V/10A) itself failed. I replaced it with a TE Connectivity T7CS5D-06 6V/12A relay (from DigiKey), and everything has been working fine since. The desoldering was a little harder than I expected (perhaps I should have used desoldering wick instead of a desoldering sucker). Thanks to MrMark and others for their advice.

  325. rcwant2be Says:

    I have a shu 6802. Has experienced typical 2H/burned circuit issue. My electronics tech friend tested the circuit board & repaired it. Dishwasher worked great for months. Then one day I turned it on, it started & then the power light & cycle light slowly faded off & the dishwasher shut off. It hasn’t worked since. There is power coming from the wall to the dishwasher. Will replacing the control module fix it? Would rather repair than replace.

  326. MrMark Says:

    @icwant2be -

    Sounds like the relay is bad in your control and needs to be replaced. Resolder of the board is a short term repair at best (been there, done that! Go the T-shirt and the cap! Which is why I dug deeper into the problem and figured out how to make the board work again, as you will see in my previous postings on this board.).

  327. Suanne K. Says:

    I have a SHU43CO2UC/14 and the controller seems to be malfunctioning. It disregards the chosen cycle and seems to run a default cycle, and then it isn’t draining and drying per the usual conclusion. After ten years of no trouble. I see that the controller part for this model is not available at AppliancePros. if interrupted, the countdown goes up for a while and before it counts down again.

  328. Isktarum Says:

    Suanne,

    If you’re up to a bit of work, try removing the controller board from your dishwasher to do an inspection on the relay solder pins. It could be the same problem described here. If so, you have two options:

    1. repair the board by resoldering or replacing the relay
    2. replace the board. You should be able to find a parts supplier online and the board will run you around $150.

    You’ll know if you see anything that looks burnt or broken around any solder pins.

  329. Debbie Says:

    I have a Bosch Dishwasher model # shx46a05uc/33. I suspect the control unit went bad again as the dishwasher runs a very long time and the water is not hot. I read the posts about how to access the unit by removing the screws on the panel. Do I need to lift the door off first? Also I don’t see a diagram on searsparts website for my model. Any help would be appreciated.

  330. MrMark Says:

    Debbie,

    I found it on the Sears website, at least one close enough for what you need. Just type in SHX46 as a Model search term, their site will then give all the Models that have that term.

    You usually don’t have to take the door off. On mine, they recommend taking the front panel off the door by removing the screws on either side of the door (I think there is 3 each side). Be careful, there are some spacers that may fall out when the panel comes off, and unless you see how they are put in-place, it’s kinda hard to figure out how and where they go back in.

  331. Big D Says:

    HELP….I have been looking up and down for a answer here I have a Bosch SHU43C02UC17….need a control unit will the one at the top of thios post work….thanx ,,,anyone

  332. MrMark Says:

    BigD,

    If you are having the “2H” problem, or your DW just isn’t finishing up the dry cycle and the water isn’t getting hot/warm, I would suggest that the heater relay on the control has failed in some way, and that you replace the relay, rather than get another board that will likely have the same weakness.
    I replace the relays and beef up the lands on the board. Email me at boschrepair “at” tx.rr.com for more information.

  333. Fred Says:

    Just so ya guys know there is a recall on certain models of bosch dishwashers and you all really should call the hotline whoever may be potentally affected will be receiveing a letter in the mail plz call sears customers can get a free repair or a 100 or 200 dollar rebate on a new dishwasher from sears and none sears customers can get the free repair for the control module.

  334. Elizabeth Says:

    Our Bosch SHU 4300 has just begun “re-starting” itself after it runs through a cycle (i.e., after the indicator light shows “CLEAN,” the whole thing starts over at “WASH.” Does this sound like a problem with the circuit board or something else?

  335. Dan Tassell Says:

    I have a Bosch Dishwasher, model SHU6805/U12. Normally the “Quick Wash” cycle runs for 27 mins, but last night it would start out at 16 mins, countdown to 1 min and never shut off. Control Module?

  336. MrMark Says:

    @ Dan Tassell,

    In all likelihood yes, it probably is.

  337. Michael Says:

    Does anyone know what is the replacement relay for the burned one in control unit in Bosch SHY66C. I assume it should be at least 10 amp, but there are tons of different one in size and other parameters.

  338. MrMark Says:

    @Michael,

    Bosch documentation say’s “If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK.”, and “Check heater resistance (~11 ohms).”. Using Ohm’s law, 11 Ohm’s at 120 VAC is 10.9 amps.

    Bottom line = don’t replace with a 10 amp relay or you will have the same problem again. I know, been there, done that.

    Email me at at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out.

  339. MrMark Says:

    *********** As an edit to my previous – **************

    Bosch documentation say’s “If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK.”, and “Check heater resistance (~11 ohms).”. Using Ohm’s law, 11 Ohm’s at 120 VAC is 10.9 amps.

    ********************************************************************
    The relay originally installed in the board is rated for 10 amps!
    ********************************************************************

    Bottom line = don’t replace with a 10 amp relay or you will have the same problem again. I know, been there, done that.

    Email me at at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out.

  340. MrMark Says:

    *********** As an edit to my previous – **************

    Bosch documentation say’s “If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK.”, and “Check heater resistance (~11 ohms).”. Using Ohm’s law, 11 Ohm’s at 120 VAC is 10.9 amps.

    ********************************************************************
    The relay originally installed in the board is rated for 10 amps, but the heater pulls almost 11 or more (depending on allowed input voltage tolerance swing)!
    ********************************************************************

    Bottom line = don’t replace with a 10 amp relay or you will have the same problem again. I know, been there, done that.

    Email me at at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out.

  341. Dariusz Says:

    Hello,
    I have a problem with SHU5316UC/U11 bosch dishwasher.
    Unit is about 12 years old and it was working fine until recently stopped heating water.
    I’ve already changed control board and heating module and I am still getting fault #2 when runing diagnostics.
    Dishwasher still shows 2H when trying to run the cycle and is not heating water.
    Is there a site where I can find PDF repair manual for this dishwasher ?
    What would be my next step in troubleshooting this machine ?
    Thanks

    Dariusz

  342. MrMark Says:

    @DariusZ

    Email me at boschrepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out.

  343. Disha Says:

    I have a Bosch dishwasher , SHE58C05UC/50. Have the typical control board issues; water not heating, long delicate cycle, regular cycle stalled at 86 minutes. Trying to determine if control board or heater, thermistor, flow switch is bad. Other posts mention:

    Bosch documentation say’s “If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK.”, and “Check heater resistance (~11 ohms).”. Using Ohm’s law, 11 Ohm’s at 120 VAC is 10.9 amps.

    With ohm meter, which terminals on the control board do I check to determine heater resistance. I do not have any schematics or diagrams of control board pins, etc.
    Any help is appreciated much.

  344. MrMark Says:

    Disha,

    You can’t measure the heater resistance at the plug on the controller. There is a pressure switch in series with the heater, and the DW has to be running with water in it for the flow switch to close.

    If you’ve read all through this blog, you will find the common issue with these controls are a marginally rated heater control relay. Contact me at boschrepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out.

    MrMark

  345. Jon baas Says:

    Bosch SHU33A02UC/37 failed during wash cycle. Used a little giant to pump out the “bilge”. There are no panel lights with door latched and power switch on or off. Latch appears to be sound and functioning properly. Using a NCVT Voltage tester determined voltage present at control unit with power switch on / not present with switch off. Not sure if issue is with control unit or door latch micro switch. Am I close? Neither part is available appliancepartspros, sears, or bosch. Should i keep looking, troubleshoot the board, or get a new machine?

  346. chihming1234 Says:

    I had the same 2H, and never ending 1 min problem. I wrote to MrMark, then sent my Bosch control unit to him, he was so helpful and was able to help me fix the problem. Now my dishwasher is running great. Thank you MrMark, I really appreciate your help.

  347. Ronan Says:

    Thanks so much MrMark! I ordered the part from Digikey and replaced it today. So far so good. Saved a huge amount not having to replace my dishwasher!

  348. Ronan Says:

    I should add in case others are googling for this problem… My problem was the 2H then 1 min, never ending cycle (I’d always have to cancel the cycle and run a quick rinse to get the dishes clean). Model number is SHU6805. Changed it to the 12 amp component from digikey as Mark suggested.

  349. Tony R Says:

    BOSCH Dishwasher SHU43C02UC/17 arms do not spin. Is this part of the module recall or circulation pump ?

    The dishwasher is 5 to 7 years old would it me cost effective to repair or just replace ?

  350. MrMark Says:

    @ Tony R,

    The wash arms not spinning is not a part of the recall to the best of my knowledge. These are pretty awesome dishwashers and to buy a new one over the minor repair of a few items is not (and I am not a tree hugger type person) environmentally smart. These DW’s, as are most DW’s made in the past 10 years, are not like the DW’s of years ago that would rot out over time.

    Plastic parts do wear out. Pump impellers do wear out. All can be replaced and make your DW as good as new again. If the control board goes out (counts down but never finishes, and the water never get’s hotter), I can make it better than new again as the heat relay failure is fairly common on these DW’s. Just email me at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you out (I only mess with the control board. For other parts, you’ll need to go to a site that sells parts.). But I think you’ll find plenty of comments on my help in the listings above.

  351. Ryan Says:

    Hello,

    I have a Bosch SHU4302 and it will not not turn on at all. The power button does nothing. I opened up the panel and everything was plugged in. Is this likely a control module issue or something different. Thanks for the help!

  352. MrMark Says:

    Possibly a bad board. I’ve got one I took in trade that I have not had a chance to determine why it is dead (I upgrade these boards with a higher current level relay, and I took the control in trade for swapping the relay upgrade from that board, to another control the person had. He sent me the first control in error.).

    It could also be a switch problem.

    Send an email to me direct at BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com and I can help you more.

  353. Tinkerer05 Says:

    I have a Bosch SHU5315UC-U06 which isn’t washing dishes effectively any more. All seems to be working well mechanically/electrically including Fill, Drain, etc., however…

    When I trip the door switch so that I can see it working with the door slightly open, the water is pumping up through the lower arm about 9″ into the air but with not enough pressure to make the arm spin. And the upper arm does not have any water pumping through at all.

    I’ve disassembled the Circulation Pump and there is a circular plastic impeller that seems to pressure fit against a conical plastic piece that is coated with a soft rubber, which is mounted on the end of the motor shaft. It seems that the rubberized cone spins the impeller using friction – is that correct? Is it possible that the surface of the plastic impeller that mates to the rubberized cone has worn such that the impeller slips and doesn’t spin as fast as it should? Will a Circulation Pump Repair Kit fix this problem, if in fact this is the problem? I hesitate to buy the repair kit if this isn’t the problem, having just replaced the Control Module (after 14 years of use, 3 re-solder jobs and two relay replacements), Flow Control Switch and the Thermostat (1 repair job – cleaned up the contacts after 10 years use).

    I’ve also removed the Heater Element from its housing and checked to ensure that there are no blockages. Any advice, other thoughts?

    BTW Mr. Mark, you were very helpful back in ’09 on advice to me (along with many others) on the Control Module repair, thank you. Your advice would be most appreciated here on how the Circulation Pump is supposed to work.

  354. MrMark Says:

    Tinkeror,

    I’ve recently communicated with someone who had a very similar problem as what you are describing, but his impeller was lose on the motor shaft. I would be inclined to say that is your problem, although I have dont have any personel experience it. My DW has worked without issue in the pump, except for it hangs up on occasion, and I have to get a nut driver out to break it free (I use the nut driver to turn the impeller from inside the DW.).

    I am surprised at your remark of having had to replace 2 relays though. I replaced mine quite some time ago (3+ years) and have not had a problem since. I’ve replaced 50-60 since then, with none returned for new failure. Sounds like you are either using the wrong relay, not resoldering correctly, not reinforcing the pcb lands sufficiently, or you have high input voltage.

  355. Greg W Says:

    Cracked solder joints!
    Just replaced the heater relay. Found it on Newark.com for $1.86 with no minimum charge, no handling fee and $7 regular shipping (in two days!). While my PCB and relay were not cooked, the solder joints on 4 of the 5 pins (yes more than just the high amp connections) were cracked. Wanted to let others know who may not realize that there may be cracks only visible under very bright light and can only be felt with the tip of a sharp knife.

    Also, rinse/hold stopped working. The plastic tab connecting the button to pcb switch was broken off. I was able to superglue it back on and reinforced it with a big dab of silicon to hopefully relieve some of the stress on the bend.

    Thanks to everyone for sharing what you know. Saved my hundreds.

  356. MrMark Says:

    @GregW -

    Good points all, but let me add that you are one of the lucky ones – most of these controls have burned out circuit boards that need more than just a relay replacement, something that unless you know some tricks to circuit board repair, is not for the average person. soldering in fact, is not for most people.

    In addition, while cracks may have become evident on your control, it is also not the normal mode of failure.The undersized relay issue will not cause the solder joints to crack, if anything, it will help eliminate any cracks as the pins of the relay get hot enough to melt solder.
    The cracked joints as you had are probably a result of having to use using lead free solder. FWIW – 1 of the 5 leads of the relay doesn’t do anything and it’s about 50/50 as to whether there is a solder pad to solder to.

    As for the plastic tabs n the case, Bosch sells the case only to deal with the problem of the tabs breaking off. They even speak of it in their service guides they send to their technicians, which goes something like “Often controls are replaced under warranty due to broken tabs on the control. DO NOT REPLACE THE CONTROL! Order P/N xyz to repair the unit.

  357. Greg W Says:

    @MrMark- interesting- did not know about lead-free crack issue.

    After removing the old relay, there is a very small halo of cooked (black turned brown) epoxy around ALL 5 of the pins (I know, only two carry heater current). They “crackeled” when you wiggled them and you can see very tiny flakes of epoxy fly off, leaving a pitted surface.

    Something has to be aggrivating the lead free solder situation as the rest of the board works fine.
    My hypothesys: Since more than just the two load carrying pins had cracks, I think the relay internals were overheating just enought to cause flexing/stress of the relay/pcb without generating enough heat to re-melt the joints. The constant heat/cool cycling then leads to cracks at the weakest point- the solder. Wouldn’t lead free solders have a higher melting temperature and be less prone to remelting?
    What do you think?

  358. MrMark Says:

    @Greg,

    We may be straying from the topic at this point – but what you found is interesting. After reading your post a few times, I think the discoloring and cracking you mention is on the relay itself, not the circuit board.

    It makes no sense that there would be that much heat getting to the coil pins. Current carrying contact pins, yes, but not coil. Not only do the plastic and epoxy have infinite resistance, they’re thermal conductivity characteristics are only marginally better.

    Sounds like you may have had a bad relay, or – burning issues are usually evidenced by things going from brown to black, not black to brown.

    Many epoxies are translucent, not opaque. I wonder if what you are seeing is a black translucent epoxy that get’s thinner as it surrounds the relay pins. You are seeing the pin reflected light through the epoxy, which makes it look brownish, depending on the coloring agent used (if used) or natural coloring of the epoxy.

    All of the relay’s I currently have use black epoxy. Yours may have been one of the earlier versions that were more cheaply made. Bosch used a mix of relays, some black, some white. Seems the white ones used a dark colored epoxy.

    If you want to discuss more, send an email to BoschRepair “at” tx.rr.com. I provide my input and advice in hopes that people don’t just trash their Bosch dishwasher. These DW’s are really awesome DW”s, except for this one flaw, which I have figured out how to correct.

  359. Marcus Says:

    “After initially believing that my problem was the heat relay, I contacted MrMark to have him upgrade my control. As it turned out, the control wasn’t my problem as there were leaky hoses underneath my dishwasher that prevented the unit from operating. He worked with me through my frustrations of not having a running dishwasher which included the leaky hoses and a bad On/Off switch, told me what parts to order and where (not from him).

    After all the help MrMark gave me at no charge, I wouldn’t hesitate to have him upgrade my control and feel confident that the control would not be a problem to me again.”

  360. Jack8484 Says:

    I found a video on YouTube that shows how to repair a control board with a bad relay! The board being repaired has a 6V relay. Mine uses a 6V relay too and the R46-5D12-6 relay fixed it. If your board has a 12V relay, then the R46-5D12-12 relay would be the one for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb8gAnMb2zQ

  361. MrMark Says:

    In reference to the video indicated above, I would advise against anyone who is not familiar with soldering and circuit board repair techniques in performing that procedure. And, selection of the wrong relay could render your control useless, if not to cause further or additional risk of fire.
    I do offer a service of doing this work – and I feel you would agree if you’ve scanned through my comments above, that I have spent the time to determine the real cause of this failure, and the minimal $ I make from reworking these controls is well worth it.

    FWIW – the following is a listing of controls and or DW Models that the heat relay issue applies -

    Ref. Control P/N’s (list may be incomplete)-

    170310, 184539, 184605, 219640, 263823, 264093, 264461, 264877, 265401, 265403, 266746, 267327, 422613, 442768, 444816, 444847, 445925, 446047, 446048, 467087, 468428, 481055, 483289, 488428, 489004, 496013, 498022, 609298, 609299, 642142, 643487, 647476, 647478, 661682, 662837, 674012, 676960, 676962, 676964, 676965, 676967, 676987, 701523, 702451, 704226, 820940, 888005, 935496, 935513, 1102296, 1161533, 1384964, AP2802870, AP2804247, AP2804417, AP2804462, AP2806813, AP3194844, AP3858120, AP3858380, AP3963258, AP4434740, AP4540760, 665411

    Ref – Bosch Dishwasher Models (list may be incomplete) -

    SHE33, SHE 3A, SHE42L, SHE43C, SHE43F, SHE43M, SHE43P, SHE43R, SHE44C, SHE45C, SHE45M, SHE46C, SHE47C, SHE47M, SHE4A, SHE55C, SHE55P, SHE55R, SHE58C, SHE5A, SHE65P, SHE66C, SHE68E, SHE68M, SHE68P, SHE68R, SHE6A, SHI43, SHI66, SHI68, SHU43, SHU53, SHU66, SHU68, SHU88, SHU99, SHV43, SHV46, SHV48, SHV66, SHV68, SHV99, SHX33, SHX36, SHX3A, SHX43, SHX45, SHX46, SHX4A, SHX55, SHX56, SHX57, SHX98, SHX99, SHX9E, SHY56, SHY66.

  362. Jack8484 Says:

    I would agree only somewhat with MrMark’s above comment about the video on YouTube. If you don’t have the skills to do this, hire someone! Fortunately I do know how to solder.

    I replaced my own relay after carefully reading the information I found here (thank you MrMark for your input) and watching the video. The reason I fixed my dishwasher myself was threefold. One, I wanted minimum downtime. I had about one hour downtime to confirm that the relay was bad, and about an hour down replacing the relay. Two, I wanted to save money. The relay only cost me $5. And three, I wanted to do it myself (priceless!).

    If you have questions about how to replace your relay, I would ask them here or ask the guy in the video. I had no questions because everything was answered either here or by the video.

    I am proud to report that my dishwasher has been running flawlessly since I replaced the relay (about four months now). Ahhhh, clean dishes at last!

  363. John Says:

    The Bosch SHU9905 heater DOES NOT draw over 10A. It draws between 8.2 and 9.5 A.

    The Circulator motor draws about 1.5 A. The total current draw while the circulator and heater are running is about 11.5 A. The heater relay is rated for 10A. It would’ve been nice if Bosch had installed one that can handle at least 12 A.

    My SHU9905 Millenium has been running perfectly (except the detergent wax motor and recently the Circulator impeller) for 12 years. After replacing the circ. impeller last week the water heater wouldn’t come on. I suspected it was the burned out heater relay. Wrong. It was the flow switch diaphragm. I cleaned that area of the washer and now it runs perfectly.

    During Regular wash the heater does not come on until after the first drain cycle. It comes on 1 minute after the second fill occurs.

  364. MrMark Says:

    Hello all, just thought I would touch base on the current state of upgrading these controls and getting them operating again.

    It appears the relay that I indicated above is no longer being manufactured. However, I have done a little research and have found an alternative relay. I might also add that there are two different relays used on these control depending on which one you have, both of which I keep a stock of. Please feel free to get in touch with me for more information -

    BoschRepair at tx dot rr dot com

    And by the way, there are other issues that may surface once the relay is taken care of, any of which I would be happy to help you with should you chose to use me as a source for upgrading your control.
    And I will reiterate, if you’ve looked at your control and found the burned place, only to have resoldered and reinstalled – the control WILL fail again. The burned solder joint is a secondary indication of the primary failure, both of which can only be corrected with an upgraded relay.

    And for what it’s worth,

  365. Kliknij Says:

    Życie sprawdziany

  366. MrMark Says:

    Just an update since my last – since December 31, I have upgraded 11 controls with the higher rated relay. 1 of the dishwashers also had a connector issue where it connected to the control, 3 of them had to cycle at minimum of 2 times (so the control could reset/relearn). 1 of the units appears to have a bad heater/thermistor/flow switch (TBD, and I am working on it via email with the owner), but his control was burned as well.

    I have gone so far as to offer a warranty on my upgrading your control – if what I do doesn’t make your dishwasher operate better after we have exhausted all other issues, then I will refund your money less my original shipping charges (which are $10.00 or less), upon your return of the control I worked on previously to me.

    But considering the success I have had over the past 2-3 years in upgrading these controls, the control is the #1 reason (by nearly a factor of 100 to 1) these dishwashers fail to complete their was cycle.

  367. JimD Says:

    Hi,

    This is a bit off subject but so similar that I thought I would ask my question here since I can’t find an answer anywhere else. I am replacing a BSH 00449411 – CONTROL UNIT and have installed it but the cycle buttons don’t work I push them but they act as if they are not making contact with the unit.

    Any suggestion?

    Thanks, Jim

  368. MrMark Says:

    JimD,

    Buttons should work if you got everything put back together right.

    FWIW – If your replacing an old control that the symptoms of failure are as described in this blog, I am here to tell you that you will be replacing that control in the future for the same reason.

    I will buy the old control from you if you want, as well as can help you prevent having to do this in the future.

    email me at BoschRepair “at” tx dot rr dot com for more info

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  372. liz, blyth Says:

    hi, im hoping someone can help me out.. i got a dishwasher given to me from a friend,its my 1st 1 & dont know anything about them, but no matter which wash cycle i seem to use, it always takes forever & never seems to switch off by itself, i think its sticking or something.. i had to go out & came back to it still running 7hrs later.. not good for the electric lol.. anyways, its a Bosch dishwasher SMS4472GB/20… im really hoping for some advise before i throw it out x

  373. MrMark Says:

    liz,bluth,

    It’s more likely the heat relay issue than anything else. But double check your dishwasher model number as in a quick search, I couldn’t find a Bosch with that model number.

    You can also email me direct to boschrepair “at” tx dot rr dot com . I keep heat relays in stock and can upgrade your control for you, and I will also help you through any other issues you may have with the DW. But as I said, more often it’s the heat relay issue with these Bosch’s than anything else.

  374. liz,blyth Says:

    thanks for replying, i i don’t think heat is te problem as it does get very hot.. iv had it running since about 4 today and iv just had to turn the dial to a diferent stage of the cycle, but iv noticed even on just a number 4 wash, it sticks at the same place

  375. MrMark Says:

    liz, blyth,

    If you’ve got one of the Bosch’s with the dial type control, then this is a very typical problem with clock timer type controls. They get to where they hang and stick. Not much you can do but replace it.

    Since I couldn’t identify your DW, I am thinking it’s somewhat older as clock timer type of controls have not been used in a number of years. But maybe someone else has better knowledge of your specific dishwasher. However, this blog is not the right blog for your control or dishwasher.

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